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SEYMOUR    DURST 


-f  '  "Tort  nuMtv    ^m/ftrj*m.  of  Je  MatJiatans 


IVhen  you  \eave,  please  leave  this  hook 

Because  il  has  been  said 
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Avery  Architectural  and  Fine  Arts  Library 
Gift  of  Seymour  B.  Durst  Old  York  Library 


!£ 

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fir 


GREAT  CITIES 


OF  THE  WORLD 


EDITED    BY 

ELBRIDGE    S    r3ROOKS 


BOSTON 

D      LOTHROP     COMPANY 

WASHINGTON    STREET    OPPOSITE    BROMFIEI.D 


OFrSfTi 

6J 


Copyright,  1890, 

II Y 
I).    LoTIIUor   C'u.Ml'ANY. 


PREFACE. 

It  is  a  somewhat  ungracious  task  to  pick  and  choose  from  among  the  World's  metropolises  a  certain 
number  to  be  classified  as  the  Great  Cities  of  the  World.  To  the  inhabitant  of  every  busy  city  his  own 
town  is  not  only  great,  but  the  greatest.  If  not  in  population  then  in  tradition,  history  or  surroundings, 
the  claim  to  greatness  will  be  jjroudly  advanced  and  as  strenuously  insisted  upon,  and  woe  unto  him  who 
seeks  to  dim  the  luster  or  belittle  the  proportions  of  the  city's  record  of  importance. 

In  this  compilation,  however,  the  editor  has  sought  to  avoid  the  disputed  question  of  constructive 
greatness,  and  to  ba.se  the  selection  rather  upon  the  single  claim  to  bigness  as  given  by  the  census 
returns.  Population  is,  after  all,  the  one  material  test  —  even  wealth  and  commerce  standing  below  it 
in  comparison.  Many  a  goodly  city  of  our  own  land  should  really  have  place  in  i\us  list  if  the  wealth 
of  its  citizens,  the  importance  of  its  manufactures  or  its  trade,  and  the  position  it  holds  in  the  ever- 
lengthening  honor-roll  of  progressive  American  cities  were  here  to  have  consideration.  And  every  such 
city,  when  compared  with  the  sleepy,  retrogressive  and  often  tumble-down  towns  of  the  far-off  Orient  or 
of  those  less  pushing  nationalities  familiarly  known  as  "the  effete  monarchies  of  Europe"  would  surely 
have  a  better  claim  to  the  distinctive  title  of  "  Great "  cities. 

In  the  limited  space  allowed  him,  however,  the  editor  has  striven  to  do  justice  to  all  lands  —  with, 
perhaps,  just  a  shade  of  favoritism  toward  America.  The  voice  of  the  census-taker  has  been  heard  in 
the  land  even  while  this  book  has  been  preparing,  and  the  relative  position  of  the  cities  as  given  in  the 
volume  may  not  be  in  strict  accord  with  the  result  of  the  investigations  of  these  modern  inquisitors ;  but 
the  endeavor  has  been  made  to  make  the  order  taken  as  nearly  correct  as  possible,  for  not  all  the  earth's 
cities  are  of  the  character  of  many  of  those  Oriental  towns  where  the  census-enumerator  is  unkliown  and 
where  the  population,  always  estimated,  has  a  fluctuating  margin  that  varies  from  two  hundred  thousand 
to  a  million. 

No  one,  however,  who  goes  over  the  descriptions  here  somewhat  meagerly  collected  can  fail  to 
be  impressed  with  the  feeling  that  deepens  almost  into  the  assurance  that  the  world  is  growing  and 
progressing  in  every  section.  Few,  if  any,  of  the  cities  here  described  have  fallen  back;  nearly  all 
have  materially  progressed  —  an  indication  that  the  days  of  war  and  rapine,  of  strife  and  destructive 
e]iidemics  have  indeed  passed,  and  that  the  era  of  peace,  of  companionship,  of  a  growing  loving-kindness 
among  men  is  fast  coming  on. 

For  some  of  the  cuts  in  the  book  the  publishers  desire  to  make  appreciative  acknowledgment. 
Especially  is  this  due  to  David  McKay,  of  Philadelphia,  the  John  Shillito  Co.,  of  Cincinnati,  the 
^linneapolis  Board  of  Trade  and  to  those  others  who  kindly  placed  certain  of  the  illustrations  accom- 
panying the  description  of  their  respective  cities  at  the  service  of  the  publishers. 


CONTENTS. 


LONDON      . 

9 

SHEFFIELD 

117 

PARIS 

16 

CLEVELAND      . 

118 

NEW  YORK 

23 

SHANGHAI 

• 

120 

CANTON      . 

30 

ROME 

120 

BERLIN       . 

31 

BUFFALO  . 

123 

PHILADELPHIA 

34 

MUNICH      . 

125 

VIENNA       . 

39 

NEW  ORLEANS 

126 

TOKIO 

42 

KIOTO 

128 

CHICAGO    . 

44 

PITTSBURG 

128 

ST.  PETERSBURG     . 

47 

DUBLIN       . 

130 

CONSTANTINOPLE 

50 

SEOUL 

_31 

CALCUTTA 

5^ 

DRESDEN    . 

132 

BROOKLYN 

54 

LISBON 

133 

BOMBAY     . 

56 

BARCELONA 

134 

MOSCOW     . 

58 

SANTIAGO 

135 

GLASGOW 

60 

BORDEAUX 

135 

LIVERPOOL       . 

62 

EDINBURGH 

136 

PEKIN 

65 

DETROIT    . 

139 

ST.  LOUIS  . 

66 

STOCKHOLM 

139 

BALTIMORE       . 

68 

WASHINGTON 

141 

BOSTON      . 

71 

TURIN 

145 

BUENOS   AYRES       . 

76 

MINNEAPOLIS 

145 

BRUSSELS 

77 

BRISTOL     . 

147 

NAPLES       . 

80 

ST.  PAUL    . 

149 

BUDAPEST 

81 

SYDNEY       . 

151 

MELBOURNE     . 

82 

ANTWERP 

152 

LYONS 

84 

BUCHAREST 

153 

WARSAW    . 

85 

MILWAUKEE 

154 

BIRMINGHAM    . 

86 

ALEXANDRIA 

156 

AMSTERDAM     . 

89 

BELFAST    . 

157 

MADRID      . 

92 

PALERMO  . 

158 

MARSEILLES      . 

94 

KANSAS  CITY 

159 

CAIRO 

95 

LOUISVILLE 

160 

MADRAS     . 

97 

SMYRNA      . 

161 

RIO  DE  JANEIRO 

98 

TEHERAN 

162 

OSAKA       ,  . 

100 

NOTTINGHAM 

163 

HYDERABAD     . 

101 

MONTEVIDEO 

164 

MEXICO      . 

102 

PRAGUE      . 

165 

MANCHESTER  . 

104 

BENARES    . 

166 

SAN  FRANCISCO 

105 

LILLE 

167 

LEEDS 

107 

ROTTERDAM 

168 

CINCINNATI       . 

108 

HAVANA     . 

170 

HAMBURG 

112 

NEWARK     . 

171 

BRESLAU    . 

113 

MONTREAL 

172 

MILAN 

114 

JERSEY  CITY 

173 

COPENHAGEN  . 

115 

VENICE       . 

174 

LUCKNOW 

116 

LIST   OF    ILLUSTRATIONS. 


In  tlio  licnrt  of  the  city    ....     Fro»tis 

Tlie  i;uar(l  of  the  tower 

0 

Tlie  'I'ower  of  Londoii      ..... 

10 

Westminster  Al)l)ey 

11 

The  Bank  of  England 

12 

Interior  of  Saint  Paul's 

14 

View  of  Paris  from  the  Seine  .... 

IC 

Church  of  Notre  Danic 

16 

Bird's-eye  view  of  Paris 

17 

Bridge  of  St.  Louis 

18 

Tlie  Bourse 

19 

The  Luxembourg  Palace 

20 

The  Louvre 

21 

Open-air  caf6 

22 

Book-stalls  on  the  Quai  Malaquais  . 

22 

Tower  of  Produce  Exchange  .... 

23 

New  York,  from  Governor's  Island 

24 

Picturesque  New  York 

25 

Madison  Square 

27 

Cooper  Institute 

27 

Fifth  Avenue,  below  Central  Park  . 

29 

Initial 

30 

Statue  of  Frederick  the  Great .... 

31 

The  Brandenburg  Gate 

32 

"  Der  Miihlendamm."  — The  Mill-Dam,  Berlin 

33 

The  Liberty  Bell        ...... 

34 

Picturesque  Philadelphia 

35 

New  Pul)lic  Building 

3G 

Statue  of  Franklin 

37 

Fa(^-ade  in  Vienna 

39 

Ileinrischof 

40 

In  old  Vienna 

41 

Interior  of  Japanese  shop        .... 

43 

Chicago  in  1820 

44 

Picturesque  Chicago 

45 

Statue  of  the  Czar  Nicholas     .... 

47 

Bridge  over  tlie  Neva 

48 

The  Winter  Palace    . 

49 

Initial 

50 

In  the  bazaars  of  Stamboul      .... 

51 

Constantinople 

52 

Esplanade,  Calcutta 

54 

The  bridge  from  the  Brooklyn  side 

56 

A  Hindoo  temple  in  the  Black  Town,  Bombay 

57 

The  great  bell 

58 

The  Kremlin 

59 

In  the  dry  docks 

60 

Picturesque  Glasgow 

61 

New  municipal  buildings 

62 

Great  Western  Hallway  Station,  Liverpool 

64 

Feast  of  Lanterns  in  Pekin       .... 

65 

Custom  House  and  Post-offlce 

6(5 

Court  House,  St.  Louis 

67 

Battle  Monument 

69 

Baltimore  from  Federal  Hill 

70 

Soldiers'  Monument 

71 

King's  Chai)el    . 

State  House 

On  Boston  Common  and  the  Puljlic  Garden 

Commonwealth  Avenue    . 

Cathedral  of  Ste.  Gudule . 

Tourists  abroad 

A  girl  of  Naples 

Government  building 

"The  Block"  in  Collins  Street,  Melboui 

Below  the  Heiglits    .... 

A  marriage  ceremony  in  Warsaw 

The  fish  market  at  Amsterdam 

In  Amsterdam  streets 

The  boy-king  of  Spain 

The  P.alace  of  Congress    . 

In  the  bull-circus,  Madrid 

The  Rue  La  Cannebiere    . 

A  street  in  Cairo       .... 

View  from  the  citadel  of  Cairo 

In  the  Black  Town.  Madras 

Hio  Harbor  and  Sugar  Loaf  Mountain 

Hio  de  Janeiro 

A  Japanese  carriage.  —  The  Jinrikisha 
The  Nizam's  palace  .... 
Approach  to  the  Char  Minar    . 
In  the  court  of  the  National  Museum 

In  the  smithy 

Bird's-eye  view  of  San  Francisco 

The  City  Hall 

Initial 

The  Tyler-Davidson  Fountain,  in  Fountain  Square 

The  Ohio  River,  opposite  Mount  Auburn 

A  Hamburg  market-woman 

On  the  promenade     . 

The  Kongens  Nytorv 

The  Bailey  Guard  Gate     . 

Forging  a  steel  ingot  at  the  Atlas  Steel  and  Iron 

Works,  Sheffield     . 
The  Garfield  Memorial 
Initial        .... 
On  the  Corso 
The  Castle  of  San  Angelo 
St.  Peter's  and  the  Colonnade 
The  new  Academy  of  Fine  Arts  in  Munich 
The  French  market.  New  Orleans 
View  of  Pittsburg  from  Coal  Hill 
A  rainy  day  in  Dublin  streets  . 
Phaniix  Park.  Dublin 
View  of  Dresden 
Bridge  over  the  Elbe 

Initial 

View  of  Bordeaux 

The  great  bridge  ove.  the  Frith  of  Forth 

Statue  of  Sir  Walter  Scott 

The  Castle  Hill . 

View  of  Stockhohn  . 


72 

73 

74 

77 

79 

80 

82 

83 

85 

87 

89 

91 

92 

92 

93 

95 

96 

97 

98 

99 

99 

100 

101 

102 

103 

104 

106 

106 

•JOH 

109 

110 

112 

113 

115 

116 

117 
118 
120 
121 
122 
123 
125 
126 
129 
130 
131 
132 
133 
134 
136 
137 
138 
138 
140 


LIST  OF  ILLUSTRATIONS. 


The  Washington  Monument     .... 

141 

A  girl  of  Palermo 

158 

The  Capitol  and  Pennsylvania  Avenue  from  the 

Initial 

ICO 

White  House 

142 

The  Shah  entering  Teheran 

1G2 

The  Capitol 

143 

View  of  Montevideo 

•  104 

Mount  Vernon.  — Home  of  Washington 

144 

The  Ganges,  at  Benares  . 

16C 

City  Hall  and  Court  House       .... 

14G 

In  the  gardens  of  Lille     . 

1C7 

Minneapolis  Public  Library      .... 

14G 

In  the  harbor  of  Eotterdam 

IfiS 

The  Falls  of  Minnehaha 

147 

Picturesque  Holland . 

lf.9 

Coming  into  port       ...... 

148 

In  the  Cathedral 

170 

The  State  capitol,  St.  Paul       .... 

149 

Newark  from  the  Passaic 

171 

St.  Paul  from  Prospect  Terrace 

150 

In  the  St.  Lawrence  Rapids     . 

172 

View  of  Sydney 

151 

The  Hudson  River  at  Jersey  City 

173 

Cathedral  at  Antwerp 

152 

A  water-vender  on  the  Riva     . 

174 

Picturesque  Milwaukee 

155 

On  the  Grand  Canal 

175 

View  of  Alexandria 

15C. 

The  Cathedral  of  St.  Mark 

176 

At  Belfast  docks 

157 

GREAT   CITIES 

-  OF    THE    WORLD 


LONDON. 


^O  be  the  leading  city  of  the  world  in  population,  wealth   and  trade,  culture  and 
historic  associations,  is  a  pre-eminence  that  must  make  such  a  city  at  once  the 
center  of  the  world's  interest  and  the  mark  toward  which  all  others  must  aspire. 
Such  is  London  —  tlie  metropolis  of  the  British  Empire,  the  largest  city  in  the  world. 

The  vii^itor  in  London  finds  himself  overwhelmed 
by  its  immensity.  Before  he  leaves  it  he  is  fully  con- 
vinced of  the  truth  of  Mr.  Stockton's  assertion,  that 
"if  one  were  to  undertake  to  Avalk  one  way  only 
through  all  the  streets  of  London,  he  would  be 
obliged  to  go  a  distance  of  two  thousand  six  hundred 
miles,  or  as  far  as  it  is  across  the  American  Continent 
from  New  York  to  San  Francisco." 

Extending  fourteen  miles  in  one  direction  and  eight 
in  the  other  this  mighty  metropolis  has  to-day  a  popu- 
lation of  nearly  four  and  a  half  millions  of  people.  It 
has  an  area  of  fully  forty-six  thousand  acres,  occupies 
portions  of  four  counties,  is  cut  in  twain  by  a  broad 
and  famous  river,  and  is  divided  into  a  curious  con- 
glomeration of  fourteen  governmental  divisions  — 
districts  or  boroughs. 

It  numbers  among  its  residents  more  Scotchmen 
than  Edinburgh,  more  Irishmen  than  Dublin,  more  Jews 
than  Palestine.  It  has  a  foreign  population  of  more 
than  a  quarter  of  a  million.  In  England  one  person 
out  of  every  fifteen  lives  in  London. 

This  enoimous  collection  of  human  beings,  num- 
bering more  than  the  entire  population  of  the  six 
New  England  States,  are  of  all  sorts  and  conditions. 
Some  of  them,  according  to  Mr.  Stockton,  are  "■  so 
rich  that  they  can  never  count  their  money,  and  some 
so  poor  that  they  never  have  any  to  count."  And 
these  all  find  homes  in  the  five  hundred  thousand 
inhabited  houses  of  Loudon. 

London  has  been  for  so  long  "  the  great  city  "  that 
it  is  hard  for  one  who  to-day  stands  amazed  at  its  vastness  to  realize  that  there  ever  was  a  time 
when  this  gigantic,  metropolis  was  nothing  but  a  collection  of  rude  huts,  encompassed  by  an  earth 
wall  and  a  ditch  on  a  cleared  spot  reclaimed  from  fen  and  forest.  Yet  such  was  probably  the 
case,  as  its  very  name  seems  to  indicate. 

But  whatever  its  origin — whether  it  was  only  a  rude  forest  clearing  on  which  the  earliest 
British  "boomers"  started  a  claim,  whether  it  was  the  mythical  city  founded  by  Brut,  the  son  of 
^neas  the  Trojan,  or  that  capital  city  of  Cassivelaunus  the  Briton  that  Julius  Caesar  captured  and 

9 


THE   GUARD   OF  THE  TOWER. 


10  GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD. 

sacked,  its  early  da3-s  were  certainl}'  full  of  turmoil  and  trouble.  Franks  and  Norsemen,  Picts 
and  Scots,  Danes  and  Saxons  in  turn  conquered  and  ravaged  it,  while  fire  and  famine,  pestilence 
and  whirlwind  have  again  and  again  visited  it  to  scourge,  to  decimate  and  to  destroy. 

A  review  of  the  city's  annals  up  to  the  close  of  the  seventeenth  century  reveals  little  else. 
But,  prostrated  by  each  scourge,  London  almost  immediately  regained  her  feet  again  and  went 
unconcernedly  about  her  business.  The  attempt  of  the  arch-conspirators  —  fire  and  pestilence  — 
to  annihilate  her,  was  an  ignominious  failure.  Disheartened,  they  slunk  away,  and  have  never 
since  plucked  up  courage  to  send  out  anything  more  than  the  skirmish  line  of  their  forces. 

London  had  other  enemies  during  these  earlier  centuries.  There  were  enemies  without. 
With  twenty  thousand  men  and  thirty -eight  ships  she  was  foremost  in  resisting  the  Spanish  Armada. 
There  were  enemies  within.  There  were  the  struggles  for  kingly  succession  in  which  she  was 
bound  to  take  sides ;  there  were  Nat  Tyler's  insurrection  and  Jack  Cade's  rebellion.  There  were 
precious  charters  to  maintain  against  the  usurpation  of  John  and  others  like  him.  There  were 
all  forms  of  religious  persecution,  even  to  burning  at  the  stake,  under  Henry  the  Eighth  and 
Bloody  Mary.  There  was  the  Civil  War ;  Parliament  must  be  sustained.  But  to  turmoil 
succeeded  quiet.  Never,  like  Paris,  a  turbulent  city,  her  last  two  centuries  have  been  especiall}- 
peaceful,  and  her  growth  both  in  population  and  area  has  been  enormous. 

The  cit}'  administration  of  to-day  is  a  legacy  conscientiously  handed  down  from  the  Middle 
Ages  by  generation  after  generation  of  citizens,  each  generation  adding  a  little.  The  precious 
privileges  granted  in  these  old  cliarters  liave  been  hoarded  and  counted  and  gloated  over 
with  as  keen  a  delight  as  was  ever  miser's  gold.  So  it  is  that,  just  as  he  did  generations  ago,  the 
Lord  Mayor  still  moves  amid  great  pageantry  and  glitter  to  take  the  oath  of  office  at  Westminster, 
and  for  a  consideration  of  ten  thousand  pounds  and  pei-sonal  expenses  amounting  to  about  half  as 
much  again,  keeps  the  "  show  running "  for  a  year.  Even  the  Queen  cannot  enter  the  sacred 
piecincts  of  "  The  City  "  without  the  Lord  Mayor's  permission. 

It  is  probable  that  the  material  aspect  of  London  would  have  undergone  as  little  change  as 
the  administrative  government,  had  not  a  fiery  providence  swept  the  old  away.  Still,  despite  the 
purgatorial  fire,  there  is  much  to  recall  the  past.  Parts  of  the  old  encircling  wall  are  still  standing 
and  Roman  relics  are  occasionally  dug  up  in  great  numbers.  The  Tower  frowns  forbiddingly  as 
of  old.  Originally,  in  William  the  Conqueror's  time,  a  royal  jjalace  and  fortress,  it  became  later 
a  prison  and  a  place  of  deatli,  tlie  scene  of  many  a  tragic  drama  during  the  succeeding  centuries. 
In  the  Tower,  Richard,  Duke  of  Gloucester,  led  his  singular  life,  Richard  the  Second  abdicated, 
Henry  the  Sixth  was  assassinated,  and  Charles,  Prince  of  Orleans,  lightened  the  burden  of  a 
quarter  of  a  century  of  confinement  by  writing  poems.  The  frown  it  continues  to  wear  —  from 
long  habit,  no  doubt —  is  to-day  quite  liarmless,  for  it  sheltei-s  nothing  more  ten-ible  than  a 
museum  and  an  arsenal.  Here  are  stored  the  trophies  of  England's  wars^  the  national  archives, 
the  jewels  of  the  crown,  some  of  the  richest  collections  in  the  world  of  arms  and  armor  of  every 
period,  and  an  enormous  array  of  modern  weapons  for  a  national  emergency. 

-   Among  all   the   thirteen  bridges   that  span  the    Thames,  London   Bridge  is  still  the   great 
causeway.     The  original  stiucture  does  not  remain,  however :  tliis  was  torn  down  and  replaced 


THE   TOWER   OF   LONDON. 


GREAT  CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD. 


11 


WESTMINSTER    AUBEY. 


many  years  ago.  St.  Paul's  and  "Westminster  Abbey  are  still  the  great  churches.  St.  Paul's  is 
the  third  largest  church  in  the  world,  St.  Peter's  and  the  Milan  Cathedral  alone  surpassing  it. 
Whether,  as  some  maintain,  it  occupies  the  site  of  an  ancient  temple  to  Diana  is  more  than 
doubtful,  but  it  certainh*  dates  back  as  a  Christian  church  to  the  seventh  century. 

The  present  structure,  the  sixth  upon  the  spot,  was  designed  by  Sir  Christopher  Wren  and 
finished  at  the  ver}-  close  of  the  seventeenth  century.  Good  architectural  judges  find  it 
remarkable  chiefly  for  its  massive  simplicity  and  beautiful  proportions,  rather  than  for  its 
adornments,  the  interior  especially  being  verj-  plain,  as  compared  with  most  European  cathedrals. 

Westminster  Abbey  was  founded  about  the  same  time  as  St.  Paul's,  but  was  not  regularly 
established  as  an  Abbey  until  the  time  of  Edward  the  Confessor.  It  is  the  coronation  churcli  and 
contains  the  royal  burial  vaults  as  well  as  a  long  series  of  monuments  to  warriors,  saints, 
statesmen,  poets,  musicians,  men  of  science,  travelers,  patriots  and  adventurers.  "  At  every 
turn,"  says  Washington  Irving,  "  I  met  with  some  illustrious  name,  or  the  cognizance  of  some 
powerful  house  renowned  in  history.  As  the  eye  darts  into  these  dusky  chambers  of  death,  it 
catches  glimpses  of  quaint  efifigies ;  some  kneeling  in  niches,  as  if  in  devotion;  others  stretched 
upon  the  tombs,  with  hands  piously  pressed  together ;  warriors  in  armor,  as  if  reposing  after 
battle  ;  prelates  with  crosiers  and  miters  ;  and  nobles  in  robes  and  coronets,  lying  as  it  were  in 
state.  We  stej)  cautiously  and  softly  about,  as  if  fearful  of  disturbing  the  hallowed  silence  of 
the  tomb  ;  while  every  footfall  whispers  along  the  walls,  and  chatters  among  the  sepulchers, 
making  us  more  sensible  of  the  quiet  we  have  interrupted.  It  seems  as  if  the  awful  nature  of 
the  place  presses  down  upon  the  soul,  and  hushes  the  beholder  into  noiseless  reverence." 

Ecclesiastical  narrowness  and  political  prejudice  have  barred  the  Abbey's  doors  to  some  of 
England's  noblest  sons  and  daughters,  and  have  flung  them  open  wide  to  some  of  the  most 
detestable.  But  for  all  that,  burial  in  her  Abbey  continues  to  be  the  highest  tribute  England  can 
pay  her  dead. 

There  are  other  London  landmarks  equally  old,  but  less  pretentious,  quaint  nooks,  touched 
lightly  by  the  centuries,  such  as  Irving  found  on  his  pilgrimage  to  Eastcheap.  A  stroll  about 
the  older  quarters  will   amply  repay  any  lover  of  antiquities. 

London's  opportunity  to  become  both  a  beautiful  and  commodious  city  fell  to  her  after  the 
great  fire  of  1664.  But,  true  to  her  instincts,  she  refi;sed  to  adopt  Christopher  Wren's  compre- 
hensive plan  for  rebuilding,  considering  only  tlie  needs  of  the  moment  and  the  convenience  of 


o 
o 


W 

iri 


GREAT  CITIES   OF  THE   WOULD.  13 

the  hour.  As  a  result  of  this  iuexeusiible  old-t'og^isiii,  London  streets  are  not  only  irretrievably 
iigly  _  which  is  of  no  conscMiuonce  to  the  average  Englishman  —  but  extremely  ineonveiiieiil, 
and  inconvenience  does  wound  his  utilitarian  susceptibilities,  and  lead  him  to  ponder  on  what 
"might  have  been."  The  growth  of  the  immense  new  outer  city  has  been  totall}-  unregulated, 
so  that  there  is  absence  of  direct  connection  between  important  points  :  streets  are  blocked 
thereby  and  traffic  enormously  impeded. 

London  has  five  well-marked  divisions.  Smallest  in  area,  but  greatest  in  importance,  the 
center  of  all  business  activity  is  the  Old  City,  that  part  which  was  once  surrounded  by  a  wall. 
Scarcely  anybody  lives  there —  the  resident  population  certainly  does  not  exceed  fifty  thousand  —  but 
between  nine  and  eleven  o'clock  on  business  days  a  human  stream  pours  in,  seven  hundred  and  sixty 
thousand  strong,  and  between  four  and  six  o'clock  it  all  pours  out  to  the  suburbs  again.  A  strange 
spectacle  is  this  business  ebb  and  flow  to  the  loiterer  on  London  Bridge.  There  is  no  great 
merchant  in  the  whole  British  Empire  that  does  not  have  an  office  in  the  city,  yet  no  great 
merchant  lives  there.  Formerly  it  was  a  dismal,  dirty  place  quite  out  of  keeping  with  its 
cosmocentric  character.  Of  late  years,  however,  great  improvements  have  been  made.  Narrow 
streets  have  been  broadened,  hollows  filled  in,  new  streets  cut  through,  and  gigantic  warehouses 
and  civic  buildings  have  risen  upon  the  sites  of  tumble-down  houses.  Now  it  can  at  least  claim 
to  be  respectable  if  not  beautiful. 

To  the  east  and  northeast  of  the  city  are  the  homes  of  the  working  classes,  uninteresting  save 
from  the  human  point  of  view,  for  here  are  collected  the  squalor  and  misery  that  are  London's 
sliame,  sorrow  and  peril. 

West  of  the  city  is  Westminster,  the  seat  of  government  of  the  British  Kingdom.  Here  are 
the  immense  Parliament  Halls  and  the  famous  Abbey. 

Beyond  Westminster,  at  the  West  End,  lies  the  fashionable  quarter,  resplendent  with  parks, 
palaces  and  elegant  private  residences.     All  these  divisions  are  on  the  north  bank  of  the  Thames. 

Southwark,  on  the  opposite  bank,  is  a  city  by  itself.  It  has  a  population  of  two  hundred 
thousand,  and  is  the  scene  of  great  business  and  industrial  activity,  but  boasts  of  nothing  of  inter- 
est to  the  public. 

These  five  great  divisions  have  numerous  subdivisions,  each  more  or  less  distinctly  marked  for 
some  peculiarity  on  the  part  of  its  habitues.  The  French  affect  the  vicinity  of  Leicester  Square 
and  Soho.  The  Italians  are  found  in  Hatton  Gardens,  and  the  Germans  live  at  the  East  End. 
Trades  and  professions  have  the  same  huddling  tendencies.  Lawyers  are  nearl}-  all  to  be  found 
in  Lincoln's  Inn  and  The  Temple,  publishers  and  booksellers  in  Paternoster  Row,  journalists  in 
Fleet  Street.  Pall  Mall  and  Piccadilly  are  the  centers  of  London  Club  Life.  Doctors,  butchers, 
clockmakers,  etc.,  have  each  their  own  quarter.  Regent  and  Oxford  Streets  are  the  most  fashionable 
thoroughfares.  The  great  artery  of  traffic  from  the  heart  of  the  city  outward  is  the  Strand.  It 
is  lined  with  handsome  shops.  It  has  grown  busier  and  busier  every  year  since  Charles  Lamb 
used  to  frequent  it.  Yet  even  in  his  time  he  was  constrained  by  its  bustle  to  write  to  Words- 
worth :  "  The  wonder  of  these  (London)  sights  impels  me  into  night  walks  about  her  crowded 
streets,  and  I  often  shed  tears  in  the  motley  Strand,  from  fullness  of  joy  at  so  much  life." 

But  many  a  Londoner  has  ridden  year  after  year  on  the  underground  railways,  has  hurried  past 
the  thousands  of  persistent  costermongers  and  itinerant  venders,  who  alone  do  a  business  of 
four  million  pounds  a  year  —  has  been  jammed  into  the  daily  press  on  London  Bridge,  has  stood  like 
Lamb  in  the  Strand,  dazed  by  the  perpetual  swirl  and  has  even  had  an  office  by  the  very  valves  of 
the  city's  heart,  who  knows  almost  nothing  of  the  fullness  of  its  business  activity  in  its  relations  to 
the  rest  of  the  world.  He  has  examined  commercial  reports,  no  doubt,  but  statistics  of  imports  and 
exports,  of  ships  and  tonnage  and  customs  revenue  make  no  clear-cut  impression  when  they  are  so 
enormous.  .  There  is  but  one  way  to  get  even  an  approximate  idea  of  the  extent  of  London's  inter- 
national trade  and  that  is,  to  follow  the  river  down  for  six  or  seven  miles  from  London  Bridge  in 
the  midst  of  what  Byron  once  described  as  "  A  mighty  mass  of  brick  and  smoke  and  shipping." 

Since  Byron's  time,  the  mighty  forests  of  shipping  have  grown  mightier,  the  huge  warehouses 
and  magazines  have  grown  huger,  the  wine  and  oil  burrows  have  distended  into  mammoth  caves ; 
new  docks  have  been  built  without  rivals  in  the  world.  It  is  the  compound  interest  of  growth, 
and  we  wonder  will  it  ever  cease,  until  it  has  overspread  the  whole  fifty  miles  to  the  sea,  and  the 


"■'  i\ 


-;~i 


ESTEEIOR  OF  SAESTT  PAUL  S   CATHEDRAL. 


GREAT  CITIES   OF  THE   WORLD.  1.; 

great  upper  city  t'iitteiiing  on  the  life  of  this  siiail  have  swuIKmI  westward  to  llie  other  sea  ;  so 
resistless,  so  relentless  is  its  trend. 

Former  ages  have  known  no  such  marvel.  The  vaunted  nineteenth  century  has  been  able  to 
supply  none  greater  than  this. 

Financially,  in  even  a  more  complete  sense  than  commercially,  if  that  be  possible,  J^ondon  is 
a  globe  center.  It  is  literally  the  world's  great  banking-house  and  clearing-house.  Every  gieat 
corporation  of  every  important  civilized  country  has  here  its  office  and  its  agent.  Values  are  as 
inevitably  reckoned  from  London  as  longitude  is  from  Greenwich.  A  slight  pressure  on  an  elec- 
tric button  at  the  London  Stock  Exchange  may  vitalize  or  paralyze  financial  interests  located 
thousands  of  miles  away. 

The  industries  of  London,  while  of  immense  size  and  importance  in  themselves,  are  unimpor- 
tant relatively  to  its  commerce  and  finance.  The  price  of  labor  and  land  makes  it  cheaper  to  man- 
ufacture away  from  the  metropolis.  Of  all  the  industries  brewing  is  the  most  important.  Of  the 
one  hundred  and  ten  great  breweries  the  best  known  is  that  of  Barclay,  Perkins  &  Co.  in  Soulh- 
wark,  which  covers  an  area  of  twelve  acres.  Tlie  prosperity  and  wealth  that  old  Dr.  Johnson 
a  century  ago  prophesied  for  the  London  he  so  loved  has  been  attained. 

In  view  of  so  much  commercial,  industrial  and  financial  activity,  it  is  not  to  Ije  wondered  at 
that  some  of  the  most  loyal  of  London's  sons  are  gloomy  with  forebodings,  that  satisfied  witli 
riches  she  shall  neglect  and  forget  all  the  nobler  things  of  life. 

It  must  be  confessed  that  in  much  which  makes  life  worth  living,  London  might  learn  wisdom 
of  many  a  smaller,  poorer  city.  In  music,  in  architecture,  in  sculpture  and  painting  she  has  but  a 
low  prestige.  But  it  would  be  a  hasty  judgment  that  should  declare  utility  her  ruler  and  money 
her  god.  Many  thousands  there  must  be  among  her  millions  whose  knees  "  have  not  bowed  unto 
Baal."  The  glory  of  her  literature  past  and  present  is  enough  to  confirm  that.  Her  museums 
alone  would  vindicate  her.  The  noble  British  Museum  is  the  largest  and  richest  in  the  world, 
considered  as  a  whole,  as  it  is  also  the  finest  in  several  departments,  especially  Greek  and  Roman 
antiquities  and  engravings.  Its  library,  which  is  second  only  to  the  Paris  Library,  contains  over 
one  million  bound  volumes,  besides  numerous  manuscripts.  While  art  does  not  flourish  in  London, 
the  National  Gallery  —  though  of  course  not  to  be  compared  with  the  Louvre  —  is  exceedingly 
valuable  to  students  of  the  history  of  art,  and  the  comparatively  new  Royal  Academy  has  always 
a  good  loan  collection. 

London  architecture  is  unquestionably  inferior  to  that  of  all  the  more  important  European 
capitals.  It  would  be  uncharitable  to  say  that  Providence  has  kindly  lent  London  a  veil  of  fog  to 
shroud  her  ugliness  and  conjure  up  unreal  beauties.  Yet  the  thought  will  come,  and  artists  cor- 
roborate it.  A  London  fog  is  unquestionably,  to  the  artistically  unregenerate  mind,  a  most 
unlovely  thing.  At  present  however  the  city  gives  promise  of  an  architectural  new  birth.  Some 
of  the  more  recent  public  buildings  and  works  have  been  constructed  with  some  regard  for  beauty. 
Stone  is  rapidly  replacing  brick.  The  saying  that  "  The  nineteenth  century  found  London  brick 
and  will  leave  it  stone  "  is  a  prophecy  that  seems  likely  of  fulfillment. 

Still  other  evidences  there  are  that  London  is  not  wholly  given  over  to  material  gain :  her 
numerous  learned  societies  (with  the  Royal  Society  at  their  head),  each  doing  solid  work  for  the 
different  departments  of  science ;  her  colossal  charities  with  an  aggregate  income  of  over  four 
million  pounds  ;  her  schools  with  accommodations  for  over  half  a  million  children :  her  colleges 
and  univereities,  social  clubs,  books,  journals  and  magazines  ;  her  parks  and  pleasure  grounds,  her 
missionary  and  Bible  societies  for  the  evangelization  of  the  world ;  her  thousand  churches  and 
chapels  that  supply  the  great  city's  religious  life  ;  her  concert  halls  and  her  forty  theaters,  some 
of  which  have  in  recent  years  been  the  scene  of  important  revivals. 

"■  He  who  is  tired  of  London  is  tired  of  life,"  said  Dr.  Johnson.  The  good  doctor  was  (juite 
apt  to  make  strong  statements,  and  this  is  one  of  them.  Yet  even  those  who  like  London  least 
must  admit  that  she  is  a  sturdy  city  with  a  noble  past  and  a  yet  more  noble  present.  And  if  she 
can  only  be  persuaded  to  w-eave  into  her  destiny  more  of  the  amenities  of  life,  more  of  its 
"  glory  and  genius  and  joy,"  that  destiny  is  bound  to  be  still  nobler. 


PARIS. 


VIEW 


P 


ARIS  has  had  my  heart  from  my  child- 
hood. I  love  it  tenderly  even  to  its 
faults  and  its  blemishes.  I  am  a  French- 
man only  as  I  am  a  citizen  of  this  great  city, 
the  glory  of  France  and  one  of  the  world's 
noblest  ornaments."  Thus  wrote  Montaigne 
in  the  latter  part  of  the  sixteenth  century,  and 
Daudet,  in  the  latter  part  of  the  nineteenth, 
referring  to  an  enforced  absence  from  Paris 
in  his  early  manhood,  says  : 

"  Yes,   I   pined   for   Paris.      I   pined  for 
Palis,  for  the  precious  things  I  had  left  there, 
for  its  fog,  and  for  its  gas,  for  its  journals,  its 
new  books,  for  its  evening  talks  at  the  cafe,  or 
under  the  peristyle  of  the  theater,  for  its  fine  artistic  fever  and  its  perpetual  enthusiasm." 

This  affection  that  the  Parisian  bears  and  has  always  borne  to  Paris  is  unique.  It  is  so 
strong  that  he  cannot  live  at  all  or  can  at  best  on]^'  half  live  away  from  her ;  it  is  so  partial  that 
she  seems  to  him  in  all  respects  a  veritable  goddess. 

Patriotism  is  the  Frenchman's  religion,  and  he  adopts  in  speaking  of  his  country  the  glowing 
phrases  of  religious  enthusiasm  and  exaltation.  Love  of  France  is  love  of  Paris  without  qualifi- 
cation. Peter  the  Great  once  said  that  if  he  pos- 
sessed such  a  town  as  Paris  he  should  be  tempted 
to  burn  it  down  for  fear  it  should  absorb  the  rest 
of  liis  empire.  Paris  has  done  precisely  this.  It 
has  absorbed  the  empire.  To  say  that  it  is  the 
center  of  the  political,  judicial,  artistic,  scientific, 
commercial  and  industrial  life  of  the  nation  does 
not  express  the  fact.     Paris  is  the  nation. 

But  after  making  all  due  allowance  for  the 
intense  patriotic  bias  of  the  Parisian  mind,  the  fact 
remains  that  Paris  is  a  remarkable  city.  Witness 
the  fact  that  foreigners  have  vied  with  the  Paris- 
ians themselves  in  her  praises.  Hawthorne,  for 
instance,  in  almost  tlie  same  breath  that  he  berates 
the  French  people  praises  their  capital.  He  says : 
"  Never  had  my  idea  of  a  city  been  gratified  till 
I  trod  those  stately  streets."  Mr.  Stockton  de- 
clares that  "  there  is  no  one  place  which  will  show 
us  so  well  what  Europe  is  to-day  as  Paris  —  the 
queen  city  of  the  world." 

Paris  is  remarkable  first  of  all  for  her  beauty. 
An  immense  city,  surrounded  by  ramparts^  twenty- 
one  miles  long,  cut  in  twain  by  the  river  Seine, 
that  winds  and  doubles  so  much  that  there  are 
seven  miles  of  the  river  within  the  city  walls, 
full  of  broad  and  handsome  streets,  magnificent 
buildings  and  miles  upon  miles  of  stores  and  shops, 
Paris  is  generally  admitted  to  be  the  most  beau- 
tiful city  in  the  world.     She  is  a  marble  citj-,  and 

16 


CHURCH   OF   NOTKE   DAME. 


GREAT   CITIES   OF    11  IK    WOIMJ). 


17 


lill:l)  S-F.YK    \aEW   OF   PAKIS. 


foremost  among  her  beauties  are  her  noble  edifices  —  palaces,  churches,  government  offices,  shops, 
bazaars  and  private  mansions.  The  glorious  transformation  from  brick  to  marble  abruptly  checked 
by  the  Franco-Prussian  "War  and  the  riots  of  the  Commune,  has  gone  rapidly  on  toward  completion. 
One  is  met  at  every  turn  with  magnificent  specimens  of  architectural  comeliness  —  Gothic,  Renais- 
sance, and  Modern.  In  the  very  heart  of  the  city  is  the  colossal  palace  of  which  Hawthorne 
said  :  "  I  never  knew  what  a  palace  was,  until  I  had  a  glimpse  of  the  Louvre."  The  name  Louvre 
was  probably  derived  from  an  ancient  hunting  chateau,  called  Louverie,  that  used  to  stand  liere  in 
a  wolf-infested  forest.  Francis  the  First  laid  the  foundations  in  the  middle  of  the  sixteenth 
century.  Neaily  every  succeeding  ruler  has  added  something  to  it,  so  that  it  shows  many  different 
styles  of  architecture.  In  1852,  Xapoleon  the  Third  consummated  the  old  plan  of  the  French 
kings  by  joining  the  Tuileries  and  the  Louvre.  Together,  they  covered  an  area  of  forty-eight 
acres.  But  the  union  was  not  for  long.  The  Tuileries  were  destroyed  by  the  mob  in  1871.  The 
Louvre  also  was  slightly  injured,  but  was  quickly  repaired. 

Across  the  river  from  the  Louvre  is  the  Luxembourg  Palace,  the  seat  of  the  Senate  and 
former  residence  of  Marie  de  Medici ;  and  not  far  away  the  Bourbon  Palace,  the  present  seat  of 
the  Chamber  of  Deputies.  Other  prominent  public  buildings  are  the  Palais  de  Justice ;  the  Hotel 
des  Invalides,  a  refuge  for  old  soldiers  beneath  whose  majestic  dome  rests  the  sarcophagus  of 
Napoleon ;  of  this  building  Montesquieu  said  :  "  I  Avould  rather  have  built  this,  if  I  were  a  prince, 
than  to  have  won  three  battles."  Tlie  Palace  of  the  Legion  of  Honor,  an  exquisite  structure 
of  Louis  the  Fourteenth's  time  ;  the  Elysee,  Palace,  a  vast  modern  edifice  used  by  the  Presi- 
dent of  the  Republic;  the  Hotel  de  Ville,  successor  of  a  much  grander  hotel  destroyed  in  1871 ; 
the  Trocadero  Palace,  somewhat  resembling  the  London  Crystal  Palace,  and  built  expressl}'  for 
the  Exposition  of  1878 ;  the  Palace  of  the  Institute,  the  Mint  and  National  Printing  Establish- 
ment are  others  of  the  notable  buildings  of  Paris. 

Of  the  numerous  beautiful  churches,  the  largest  and  probably  the  most  famous  is  Notre 
Dame  de  Paris.  It  is  in  the  form  of  a  Latin  cross  and  has  one  of  the  most  beautiful  facades  left 
to  us  by  the  Middle  Ages.  The  present  structure  was  erected  in  the  twelfth  century  on  the  site 
of  two  other  Christian  churclies  and  a  Pagan  temple.  In  the  seventeenth  and  eighteenth 
centuries  attempts  were  made  at  so-called  improvement  which  resulted  rather  disastrously.     This 


18 


GREAT  CITIES   OF   THE  WOKLD. 


century  has  seen  a  restoration  on  a  magnificent  scale  bj'  Viollet  le  Due,  that  is  in  every  way  a 
wortliy  one.  Within,  strange  scenes  have  been  enacted  for  a  church.  During  the  Ke volution  it 
became  a  Temple  of  Reason,  when  ]\Ille.  Maillard  as  Goddess  of  Wisdom  and  her  priestesses  were 
enshrined  and  where  their  orgies  were  celebrated.  In  the  Commune  it  barely  escaped  destruction. 
The  chairs  were  all  heaped  up  in  the  choir  and  ignited,  but  the  draft  was  so  poor  they  refused  to 
burn.  Nothing  else -could  have  saved  it.  It  has  witnessed  some  gorgeous  ceremonies,  the  most 
gorgeous  of  all  no  doubt  being  the  coronation  of  Napoleon  and  Josephine  at  an  expense  of  eighty- 
five  million  francs.  Sometimes,  too,  religious  fervor  has  prevailed.  The  great  Bossuet  and 
Bourdaloue  both  preached  here.  Here  twelve  thousand  persons  were  in  the  habit  of  listening  to 
the  Dominican,  Lacordaire.  Pere  Hyacinthe  the  Carmelite  and  the  Jesuit,  Pere  de  Ravignan. 
made  here  their  greatest  spiritual  conquests. 

Next  to  Notre  Dame  in  fame  and  beauty,  are  the  church  of  St.  Genevieve  (the  Pantheon) 
and  the  church  of  the  Madeleine.  The  second  largest  church  in  Paris,  St.  Eustache,  was 
built  by  the  architect  David,  early  in  the  seventeenth  century.  It  is  regarded  as  the  most  com- 
plete specimen  of  Renaissance  architecture  in  the  city,  (iothic  in  essentials,  but  classic  in  details. 
A  decidedly  unique  ehui'ch  is  Notre  Dame  de  Lorette,  probably  the  lichest  of  any  in  its  interior 
decorations,  so  very  rich,  in  fact,  that  it  has  come  to  be  called  the  "religious  boudoir.*'  The 
church  of  the  Oratoire,  conspicuous  for  its  stately  porticos,  is  famous  for  the  preaching  of 
Massillon  and  Mascaron.  It  was  used  for  public  meetings  during  the  Revolution.  The  Sainte 
Chapelle  was  built  by  St.  Louis  to  receive  the  crown  of  thorns  from  the  Emperor  of  Constanti- 
nople. It  is  exceedingly  beautiful.  Other  noteworthy  churches  are  San  Roch,  Avith  its  pictur- 
esque arrangement  of  chapels,  S.  Germain  de  Pres,  dating  back  to  the  tenth  century,  in  which 
Descartes  is  buried,  St.  Sulpice  architecturally  interesting,  as  being  built  by  the  Florentine, 
Servandoni ;  St.  Etienne  du  Mont,  "  a  fine  and  delicate  marvel  of  French  art,"  containing  the 
tombs  of  Racine  and  Pascal,  and  St.  Gervaise  where  interior  Gothic  can  be  studied«it  its  best. 

Even  such  edifices  as  these,  if  jammed  together  on  narrow,  crooked  and  unkempt  stieets, 
would  find  all  their  magnificence  of  little  avail.  Paris  streets,  qua^s  and  Ijonlevards,  liowevcr, 
are  models  of  width  and  straightness.  They  are  well-paved,  well-drained,  brilliantly  lighted,  and 
scrupulously  neat ;  always  bustling  and  animated,  but  free  from  deafening  noise.  Possessing  thus 
a  certain  kind  of  beauty  in  tliemselves,  they  also  heigJiten  the  greater  beauty  of  the  buildings  that 
fringe  them.  The  boulevards  as  first  laid  out,  occupied  the  site  of  the  old  fortifications,  and  it  is 
from  these  they  derive  their  name.  They  are  nowhere  less  than  thirty-three  yards  wide,  the  busiest 
and  most  fashionable  in  the  world,  with  their  broad  walks,  numerous  shade  trees,  attractive  sliow- 


BRIDGI-.    wi     .^1.    i,t>Uio. 


O 

a 


20 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD. 


THK    LfXE.M)i<il  Ki.    I'M.ACE. 


windows,  booths,  stalls 
and  kiosks,  theaters 
and  cafes.  That  boule- 
vard which  among  the 
many  has  come  to  be 
called  The  Boulevard 
runs  from  the  Made- 
leine to  the  Place  de  la 
Bastile,  but  the  gayest 
of  them  all  is  the  Boule- 
vard des  Italiens.  This 
seems  to  be  one  great 
open  air  restaurant, 
for  on  both  sides  it 
is  almost  wholly  lined 
with  cafds,  before 
which  hundreds  are 
always  seated  at  tables 
in  fine  weather.  By 
the  quays,  so  often  referred  to,  are  to  be  underetood  nothing  like  the  English  or  American 
wharves  and  docks,  but  magnificent  roadways,  almost  as  gay  as  the  boulevards,  bordered  on  one 
side  l)y  sumptuous  edifices  and  on  the  otlier  by  very  high,  solid  parapets  overlooking  the  river 
on  which  one  can  sit  and  watch  the  throngs  of  pleasure-seeking  foot  passengers  and  equipages 
pass  by. 

But  an  uninterrupted  glare  of  asphalt  and  marble  wearies  the  e3-e.  Paris  would  be  tiresome, 
unendurable  perhaps,  but  for  its  abundant  greenery.  There  is  scarcely  a  district  in  Paris  tliat 
does  not  have  its  open  square  of  trees  and  green-sward,  garnislied  witli  monumental  fountains 
and  statues,  and  all  scrupulously  cared  for  at  the  public  expense.  The  Place  de  la  Concorde  has 
delightful  green  outlooks  in  every  direction  and  contains  eight  allegorical  statues  of  the  great 
cities  of  France  —  Lyons,  Marseilles,  Bordeaux,  Nantes,  Lille,  Strasbourg,  Rouen  and  Brest. 
Since  Strasbourg  has  become  a  German  city,  its  statue  has  always  been  draped  in  mourning. 
This  section  teems  with  the  most  terrible  memories  of  the  Revolution.  An  obelisk  marks  the 
death-place  of  Robespierre,  a  fountain  that  of  the  King,  Louis  the  Sixteenth.  Charlotte  Corday, 
Mme.  Elizabetli,  Madam  Roland,  Marat,  Danton  and  nearly  three  thousand  otiier  and  less  famous 
victims  were  hei'c  guillotined.  The  Place  Vendome,  "■  liandsome,  old-fasliioned,  octagonal." 
dates  back  to  the  time  pf  Louis  the  Fourteenth.  It  is  adorned  In-  a  column  and  statue  of 
Xapoleon.  The  Place  de  I'Etoile  has  the  largest  triumphal  arch  in  the  world.  Other  places  — 
<les  Yictoires,  de  la  Bastile,  de  la  R(;publique  and  de  Rivoli  are  celebrated  for  their  fine  columns 
and  equestrian  statues. 

On  a  larger  scale  are  the  Champs  Elysdes,  tlie  principal  promenade  of  the  city  ;  the  Gardens  of 
the  Tuileries,  whose  parterres,  trees,  fountains,  lakes,  statues  and  fine  river  terrace  forms  the 
"  especial  paradise  of  nurse-maids  and  children  ; "  the  Jardin  des  Luxembouig  in  fi'ont  of  the 
Senatorial  Palace,  whose  conservatories  are  rich  in  rare  exotic  plants ;  the  Jardin  des  Plantes,  laid 
out  in  straight  walks  and  regular  beds  ;  Buttes-Chaumont  and  Montsouris  Park,  lioth  very  broken 
and  picturesque  ;  Moniceau  Park  the  resoil  of  aristociacy  and  the  Champ  de  Mars. 

But  the  real  parks  lie  outside  the  walls  at  directly  opposite  ends  of  the  city.  They  are  the 
Bois  de  Boulogne  and  the  Bois  de  Yincennes.  The  Bois  de  Boulogne  is  part  of  an  ancient  forest, 
once  ti  notorious  resort  of  suicides,  duelists  and  robbers.  Ever  since  its  cession  to  tlie  City  in 
1852,  its  two  hundred  and  fifteen  acres  of  turf,  roads,  trees,  shrubbery,  lakes  and  running  water 
have  been  the  Parisians'  favorite  pleasure  ground.  It  contains  menageries,  conservatories,  aqua- 
riums, two  race  courses  and  the  gardens  of  the  Acclimatization  Society.  From  three  to  five  in  the 
winter  and  five  to  seven  in  the  summer  all  the  fripper}-  and  foppery  of  Paris  —  tailoring,  millinery, 
toilet  and  equipage  —  may  here  be  seen  airing  itself.  The  Bois  de  Yincennes  is  in  most  respects 
similar  to  the  Bois  de  Boulogne,  but  is  not  yet  nearly  so  much  frequented. 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   TIIK    WORLD. 


21 


Paris  greenery  is  also  imicli  indebted  to  the  twenty-two  scattered  cemeteries.  Pere  Lachaise, 
the  largest,  richest  and  only  interesting  one,  was  formerly  the  headqnarters  of  the  Jesuits  and  de- 
rives its  name  from  the  Jesuit  Superior.  Pere  Lachaise  is  the  necropolis  of  the  dlite.  To  have  a 
hotel  in  the  IJoulevard  Malesherbes,  a  box  at  the  Grand  Opera  and  a  tomb  in  Pcire  Lachaise  — 
that  is  to  live  and  to  die  «  la  mode.  Gentility  may  rendezvous  here  secure  from  the  intrusion  of 
the  vulgar.  P6re  Lachaise  proprieties  are  never  scandalized  ;  the  burial  fee  is  ample  security 
against  that.  Musicians  are  buried  here:  Bellini,  Cherubini  and  Chopin  ;  bankers,  the  Rotlischilds 
and  Foulds  ;  authors,  Alfred  de  Musset,  Beaumarchais,  B(jrang(;r,  Racine,  La  Fontaine,  Balzac  ; 
the  artist,  David  ;  the  scientist,  La  Place  ;  the  actress,  Rachel.  But  the  most  famous  tondj  of  all, 
the  one  that  every  traveler  visits,  is  in  memory  of  those  half-mythical  medisevalists,  Abelard  and 
Heloise. 

But  gorgeous  new  palaces  bordering  immaculate  streets,  quays  and  boulevards,  studiedly 
checkered  with  places,  gardens,  parks  and  cemeteries  have  an  unpleasant  air  of  punctiliousness. 
It  is  because  the  city  was  remodeled  by  a  discriminating  taste  that  knew  how  to  tear  down  as  well 
as  how  to  build  up  that  it  is  not  liable  to  this  criticism.  While  ruthlessly  clearing  away  crooked 
alleys  andsqu.alid  purlieus  it  recognized  the  claims  of  Old  Paris  and  left  almost  undisturbed  many 
of  the  more  ancient  streets,  rich  in  historic  associations  and  in  those  mansions  of  the  past  whose 
fine  old  doorways  and  balconies  have  a  quaint  beauty  quite  Iheir  own  which  modern  elegance  <;an 
not  rival.  The  Rue  St.  Honor^,  with  its  slate-roofed,  many-windowed  and  balconied  houses  is  one 
of  the  quaintest  and  richest  of  these  streets.  At  its  entrance  formerly  stood  the  gate  which 
Jeanne  d'Arc  attacked  in  1429.  Here  was  thrown  up  the  barricade  which  l)egan  the  troubles  of 
the  Fronde.  The  first  gun  of  the  July  Revolution  was  fired  here.  In  1848  it  witnessed  a  bloody 
fight  between  the  mob  and  soldiers.  By  this  street  Marie  Antoinette  made  her  entry  into  Paris 
and  by  this  she  went  to  her  death. 

Paris  is  indeed  beautiful ;  all  these  and  many  other  things  combine  to  make  her  so.  But 
mere  beauty  is  not  charm.  Dulness  cannot  be  redeemed  by  regularity,  while  even  plainness  is 
transfigured  by  vivacity.  Beauty  and  vivacity  combined  are  irresistible.  It  is  the  gayetv  of  Paris 
that  fascinates.  Almost  two  and  a  half  million  of  people,  gathered  from  every  province  of  France 
and  every  quarter  of  the  globe,  are  here  making  an  especial  study  of  enjoyment  and  practising  it  as 
an  art.  To  the  Parisian  a  household  is  a  disagreeable  necessity  ;  society  is  his  home.  And  so  he 
frequents  the  promenades,  parks  and  boulevards  where  society  is  to  be  found  ;  he  goes  to  the 
salon,  the  opera,  the  theater,  the  circus,  the  panorama,  the  ball ;  he  reads,  gossips  and  drinks  at 
the  cafd,  cabaret  or  brasserie  where  he  is  always  sure  to  find  not  only  gossips,  scandalmongers  and 
the  omnipresent  dude-;  but  financiers  and  stock  brokers,  military  and  naval  officers,  lyric  and  dra- 
matic artists,  painters,  novelists,  jjoets  and  wits,  all  there  for  the  same  purpose  —  social  enjoyment. 
Paris  is  the  home  of  elegant  leisure,  the  Capital  of  Pleasure,  all  movement,  life  and  color.  •'  Paris 
is  electric,"  says  a  recent 
keen  observer.  "  Touch 
it  at  any  point,  and  you 
receive  an  awakening 
shock.  Live  in  it,  and 
you  lose  all  letharg)\ 
Nothing  stagnates. 
EA'ery  one  visibly  and 
acutely  feels  himself 
alive.  The  univei-sal  vi- 
vacity is  contagious." 
Ga\-ety  is  revealed  in 
every  feature  of  the  city. 
"  In  every  quarter  of 
Paris,  on  either  side  of 
the  river,"  says  ^Ir. 
Stockton,  "  we  shall  find 
shops,      shops,      shops  : 


riir.  i.<(i  \ut. 


22 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD. 


j^ 


&M^ 

"^■B^-^ 


*^^ 


people,  people,  people  ;  life,  activity  and  bustle  of 
eveiy  sort.  Splendid  buildings  meet  our  eyes  at 
every  turn.  There  is  very  little  monotony  in 
Paris.'" 

Art  is  the  glory  of  Paris.  Some  idea  of  the  ex- 
tent of  its  collections  may  be  obtained  from  the  fact 
that  it  takes  two  hours  to  walk  through  the  rooms 
of  the  Louvre  without  stopping.  Rich  in  Egyptian 
and  Oriental  antiquities,  in  sculpture,  ancient, 
renaissance  and  modern,  its  paintings  are  yet  its 
chief  pride.  The  Louvre  galleries  alone  have  an 
accrreofate  lencrth  of  five  eighths  of  a  mile.  They 
contain  over  two  thousand  works  of  very  high  rank, 
representing  almost  every  school  of  art.  Some  of 
the  greatest  masters  can  be  satisfactorily  studied 
only  in  the  Louvre.  ■  The  Museum  of  the  Luxem- 
bourg is  a  valuable  but  constantly-changing  illus- 
tration of  modern  art,  inasmuch  as  the  best  of  its 
pictures  are  removed  to  the  Louvre  ten  yeai-s  after 
the  death  of  the  artist.  The  Salon  is  an  annual 
exhibition  of  paintings  held  in  the  Palais  de 
r Industrie.  To  appear  in  the  Paris  Salon  is  the 
Tlie  prestige  is  an  earnest  of  success.     Besides  these 


OPKX-AIK   C.VKK. 

acme  of  artistic  ambition  the  world  over. 

public  art  collections,  Paris  contains  more  private  j.icture  galleries  than  any  city  on  the  continent. 
In  dramatic  art  Paris  is  easily  preeminent.  The  stage  is  not  only  sanctioned  but  heavily 
subsidized  by  the  government.  The  Grand  Opera  alone  receives  eight  hundred  thousand  francs 
yearly.  The  Grand .  Opera  House  is  worthy  of  the  City.  It  was  designed  by  Gamier,  was 
fourteen  years  in  building  and  is  the  largest  and  finest  theater  in  the  world.  The  Th^-atre  Fran- 
9ais  was  founded  in  IGOO  and  was  tinder  the  management  of  Molidre  for  some  years  after  1658. 
Here,  as  also  at  the  Odeon,  classical  dramas  are  frequently  presented.  Every  theater  has  its 
specialty  —  comic  opera,  operetta,  comedy,  farce  or  spectacular —  but  whatever  it  may  be  it  is 
artistically  presented,  for  the  drama  is  art  at  Paris. 

The  libraries  of  Paris  are  the  finest  in  the  world. 
The  colleges,  universities  and  various  special  and 
technical  schools,  continue  to  do  a  very  valuable 
work.  Numerous  learned  societies,  with  the  much- 
abused  and  long-suffering  French  Academy  at  their 
head,  are  doing  much  for  scholarship. 

The  woild  admires  Paris  for  h.;r  beauty,  gaiety, 
art  and  intellect.     The  very  ideas  of   progress  and 

liberty  which    Paris    has  sacrificed  so  much  to  dis- 
seminate have  taken  firm  root  among  other  peoples  ; 

already  the  refinement  and  elegance  of  which  she  is 

still  the  fittest  incarnation  are  beginning  to  sprout 

elsewhere,  and    are  slowly  but    suiely  breaking    up 

the    hard   soil  of   absorption    in    bread    and    butter 

interests.     Sometime  therefore  a  greater  than  Paris 

will  be  evolved  that  shall  have  all  her  sprightliness 

and  grace,  and  intellect,  and  shall  have  also  what 

Paris  has    not  and  what  is  vastly  more  precious,  a 

heart  attuned  into  harmony  with  that   "  Power  not 

ourselves  which  makes  for  righteousness."     Perhaps 

that    glory  is  reserved  for   some    city  of   this  new 

world,  despite  the  crudities  incident  to  her  youth. 


BOOK-STAIXS   ON"   THE   QUAl   MALAQL'AIS. 


NEW  YORK. 


IN  the  year  ItJl;]  Ijoutloii  was,  as  to-day,  the  Metropolis 
of  Enghuul,    the    home    of   three  liundred   thousand 

Imsy  men  and  women  ;  in  1()13  Paris,  with  a  census 
roll  of  four  hundred  thousand  inhabitants  boasted  an 
existence  of  full}'  seventeen  centuries  and  was,  as  to-day, 
the  seat  of  luxury  and  culture;  in  1613,  uynm  a  forest- 
crested  island  in  a  newly-discovered  woild  three  thonsaiid 
miles  to  tiie  westward,  a  few  pel  try -gathering  Dutchmen 
laid  out  the  rude  beginnings  of  a  city  that  to-day  stands 
third  in  population  and  second  in  commercial  greatness 
in  the  whole  civilized  world.  The  growth  of  New  York 
is  a  triumph  of  American  freedom,  American  progress, 
and  American  thrift. 

Situated  upon  an  island  of  the  Manhattans  at  the 
mouth  of  the  river  which  bore  the  name  of  its  famous 
liscoverer,  Hudson,  the  little  fur-trading  settlement  of 
the  Dutchman  grew  but  slowly.  In  1601  Wall  Street 
(De  Waal)  was  still  its  northern  limit.  The  poet 
Stedman  tells  us  : 

"  Where  nowadaj-s  the  Battery  lies, 

New  York  had  just  l)cgun, 
A  new-born  babe,  to  rub  its  ej'cs 
In  sixteen  sixty-one. 

Tliey  christened  it  Xenw  Amsterdam, 
Those  burgliers  graxe  and  stately, 

And  so  with  schnapps  and  smoke  and  ])salm, 
Lived  out  their  lives  sedately." 

Three  years  later,  the  English  took  possession  and 
re-named  it  New  York.  They  held  it  until  the  vely 
close  of  the  Revolution.  From  the  Battery,  the  town  worked  its  way  due  north  on 
either  side  a  central  thoroughfare  called  the  Bioad  Way,  occupying,  as  it  advanced,  nearly  all  the 
space  from  river  to  river  with  streets  and  buildings  whose  location  was  determined  by  convenience 
or  caprice.  It  was  not  until  1807,  when  fully  two  miles  of  labyrinth  had  been  constructed,  that  a 
regular  plan  of  streets  and  avenues  was  adopted.  Fourteen  avenues  now  run  directly  north  and ' 
south,  all  other  streets  east  and  west.  Below  AVaverley  Place,  or  Eighth  Street,  house  numbers 
are  from  Broadway,  above  that  point  they  commence  at  Fifth  Avenue.  Though  it  was  not  in  the 
plan,  aristocracy  and  plutocracy  have  occupied  this  latter  avenue  and  grouped  themselves  about  it 
within  very  clearly  defined  limits  —  Sixth- Avenue  on  the  west.  Fourth  Avenue  on  the  east. 
Manhattan  Island  in  its  length  and  narrowness,  its  single,  long,  central  avenue  frora  the  Battery 
to  the  Harlem,  its  side  streets  branching  from  the  central  avenue  short  and  straight,  gives  to  the 
framework  of  New  York  a  striking  though  of  course  a  rough  resemblance  to  the  spinal  column 
of  a  fish. 

Capital,  currency  and  exchange  center  about  Wall  Street,  the  second  great  money  street  in 
the  world.  Broad,  Nassau,  William  Streets,  Broadway  near  Trinity  Church,  and  Exchange  Place 
receive  the  overflow  from  Wall.  Next  beyond  are  the  offices  of  the  great  corporations,  of  shipping, 
telegraphs,  imports,  exports  and  lawyere  ;  the  newspaper  buildings  and  courts  are  packed  into  an  in- 
credibly small  space,  including  but  scarcely  going  beyond  the  Citj'  Hall.  Broadway  north  from  this 
point  is  lined  for  a  long  distance  with  great  wholesale  establishments.     These  gradually  give  way 

23 


iia-nae,- 


24 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD. 


to  the  retail  houses  for  fashionable  trade,  the  bulk  of  which  is  now  clone  in  an  area  enibracincr 
Union  and  Madison  Squares,  Business  of  every  kind,  however,  is  being  forced  up  town  so  rapidly 
that  for  its  permanent  arena  the  retail  trade,  at  least,  can  hardly  be  expected  to  stop  much  short 
of  Central  Park.  Even  Fifth  Avenue  is  no  longer  inviolate.  For  about  half  the  distance  to  the 
Park  business  has  invaded  it ;  fashion  is  being  slowly  but  surely  disintegrated.  The  history  of 
Broadway  is  repeating  itself  here,  and  the  time  is  probably  not  far  distant  when  it  will  be  as  diffi- 
cult to  conceive  of  Fifth  Avenue  (below  the  Park)  as  the  fashionable  quarter  as  it  now  is  to  con- 
ceive Broadway  in  that  r61e,  or  to  imagine  as  the  favorite  promenade  the  emigrant-invaded 
Battery,  —  a  state  of  things  however  within  the  memory  of  New  Yorkers  yet  living.  Inas- 
much as  fashion  does  not  like  to  have  even  the  hem  of  her  skirts  soiled  by  the  dust  of  traffic  or 
the  plebeian  touch,  she  will  hardly  find  her  home  short  of  the  extreme  north  of  the  island.  Wash- 
ington Heights  will  in  all  probability  be  the  ultimate  "  court  quarter." 

Along  with  this  expansion,  some  notable  public  works  have  been  conceived  and  executed. 
The  Croton  Aqueduct,  connecting  the  city  with  Croton  Lake,  forty  miles  to  the  northward,  sup- 
plies it  at  all  seasons  with  such  an  abundance  of  pure  water  as  few  cities  know  what  it  is  to  enjoy. 
The  limit  has  as  yet  by  no  means  been  reached,  but  in  the  near  future  it  must  be.  A  new  supply 
is  therefore  already  being  provided,  whose  aqueduct  is  to  run  under  instead  of  over  the  Harlem 
River,  as  a  safeguard  in  case  of  war.  The  cost  of  the  New  Aqueduct  \Vi[\  be  about  twenty 
million  dollars. 

The  Brooklyn  Bridge,  whose  length  of  more  than  a  mile  is  twice  that  of  any  other  suspension 
bridge,  is  pei-haps  the  wonder  of  this  age  of  mechanical  wondei-s.  It  was  thirteen  years 
in  building ;  it  lias  two  railroad  tracks,  two  roadways  for  vehicles  and  a  raised  promenade,  all 
abreast.  As  its  glitter  first  strikes  the  eye  of  the  incoming  voyager,  it  seems  scarce  more  than  a 
huge  silvery  web  stretched  by  some  titanic  spider  between  the  attractive  supports  of  the  sister 
cities'  towering  blocks.  And  yet  each  of  its  four  main  cables  has  a  diameter  of  sixteen  inches  and 
contains  over  five  thousand  galvanized  steel  wires  in  nineteen  separate  strands,  each  strand  having 
over  two  hundred  miles  of  continuous  wire.  Other  bridges  and  tunnels  to  weld  the  island  to  her 
sister  communities  on  either  hand  are  now  in  contemplation. 

Central  Park  was  laid  out  in  1858 ;  its  name  then  seemed  somewhat  of  a  misnomer 
because  of  its  remoteness.  It  is  two  and  one  half  miles  long  and  half  a  mile  wide.  Its  nearly  ten 
miles  of  fine  roadways  make  it  the  fashionable  drive  of  the  Cit}'.  Riverside  Park,  where  the  re- 
mains of  General  Grant  were  placed,  runs  for  three  miles  along  the  Hudson  River,  but  is  much 
narrower  than  Central  Park.  Although  not  yet  completed,  its  fine  river  outlook  has  already  made 
it  a  favorite  resort. 

Great  as  has  been  the  increase  in  the  extent  of  New  York,  its  increase  in  population  has  been 
much  greater,  in  fact  out  of  all  proportion.  Philadelphia,  the  second  American  city  in  point  of 
population,  has  over  three  times  its  area.  .  Chicago,  a  close  third  in  population  has  over  four  times 
its  area.  New  Yorkers  have  literall}'  been  obliged  to  climb  and  burrow  for  places  in  which  to  live 
and  work.     In  1656  its  population  was  but  one  thousand.     At  the  beginning  of  the  Revolution 


NEW  YORK,   FROM   GOVKllNOU'S  ISLAXD. 


.I.Wt>&,».'TtV^...  .,,..„ 


PICTURESQUK    NKAV    YORK. 


26  GREAT   CITIES    OF   THE   WORLD. 

ouly  twenty -two  thousand.  At  that  time  it  was  not  to  be  mentioned  with  Boston  and  Philadel- 
phia. It  did  not  reach  even  its  first  hundred  thousand  till  1815.  It  was  not  until  1825,  in  fact, 
the  year  the  Erie  Canal  Avas  opened,  that  it  really  began  to  grow.  It  had  at  that  time  about 
160,000  ;  in  1880,  the  census  returns  gave  it  1,206,299.  To-day  its  estimated  population  is  1,800,- 
000,  and  before  the  decade  is  out  the  two  million  limit  will  have  been  passed.  These  figures 
place  it  far  in  advance  of  all  American  rivals,  but  in  making  any  compai'ison  with  European  cities, 
it  ought  to  be  borne  in  mind  that  they  very  imperfectly  represent  its  real  size.  Brooklyn,  Jei"sey 
City,  Hobo'ken  and  Long  Island  City  are  only  so  many  overflow  meetings,  as  it  were,  of  the  great 
Manliattan  Island  Convention.  They  have  as  clear  a  title  to  be  censused  with  New  Y.ork  as  do  the 
analogous  quarters  with  London  and  Paris.  These  overflows  aggregate  fully  eleven  hundred 
thousand  while  the  growing  cities  of  Newark  and  Yonkers  together  Avith  the  suburban  villages  of 
the  great  city  increase  the  actual  resident  and  contributory  population  of  New  York  City  to  fully 
three  and  a  quarter  millions  of  people  —  giving  it  the  right  to  be  called  the  second  largest  city  in 
the  world. 

Of  the  eighteen  hundred  thousand  people  within  the  municipal  limits,  full}'  one  third  are  of 
foreign  birth.  Of  these  Irish  and  Germans  are  the  principal  elements.  English,  Italians,  French, 
Scotch,  Russians,  Jews,  Chinese,  Welsh  and  Spaniards  are  quite  numerous,  to  say  nothing  of  a 
sprinkling  of  still  other  nationalities.  None  of  them  are  thoroughly  assimilated ;  some  of  them 
scarcely  at  all ;  the  Irish  are  certainly  the  most  so.  They  may  be  said  to  do  the  chamber  and 
kitchen  work,  drive  the  cabs,  work  the  provisions,  keep  the  saloons  and  the  order  of  the  cit}-,  and 
to  a  certain  extent  direct  its  political  destinies.  They  are  on  the  whole  frugal  and  industrious. 
The  Germans  control  much  of  its  commerce  and  banking,  make  its  music,  and  do  its  cabinet- 
making,  brewing  and  baking.  The  Italians  wait  on  its  tables,  do  its  ragpicking  and  turn  its  hand 
organs.  Tlie  French  do  its  fancy  cooking,  the  Chinese  its  laundry -work  and  the  Jews  direct  no 
small  portion  of  its  small  trade  and  its  immense  commercial  enterprises.  Nor  should  the  unclassi- 
fiable  street  Ai'abs  be  omitted  here,  a  full  ten  thousand  of  them,  whose  only  language  is  the  patois 
of  the  gutter,  whose  only  home  tlie  hogshead  or  drygoods  box.  They  are  Jacks-at-all-trades,  but 
they  principally  black  its  boots  and  sell  its  papers. 

Mr.  Howells,  who  may  perhaps  be  considered  as  the  latest  student  of  New  York's  cosmopoli- 
tan life,  says,  "  New  York  is  still  j)opularly  sujiposed  to  be  in  tlxe  control  of  the  Irish,  but  every 
observer  returning  to  the  city  after  a  prolonged  absence  must  remark  one  fact:  the  numerical 
subordination  of  the  dominant  race.  If  they  do  not  out-vote  them,  the  people  of  Germanic,  of 
Slavonic,  of  Pelasgic,  of  Mongolian  stock  outnumber  the  pre-potent  Celts.  The  chief  pleasure 
(to  a  new-comei)  of  life  in  New  York  is  from  its  quality  of  foreigniiess :  the  flavor  of  olives  which 
once  tasted  can  never  be  forgotten." 

A  dozen  years  or  more  ago,  the  forty  lines  of  horse  railway  began  to  find  it  absolutely 
impossible  to  attend  to  the  needs  of  the  rapidly -growing  city.  The  demand  for  better  transit  led 
to  the  construction  of  the  elevated  roads  in  1878.  Four  lines  run  on  four  avenues  from  the 
Battery  to  the  Harlem  River.  These  lines  have  come  to  carry  over  half  a  million  passengers 
daily,  and  the  travel  on  the  horse  railways  has  increased  notwithstanding.  In  fact,  the  congestion 
is  as  great,  if  not  greater,  than  before  the  introduction  of  the  elevated  roads.  The  problem  of 
rapid  transit  is  as  far  as  ever  from  solution.  But  at  all  hazards,  freer  and  quicker  communication 
between  the  city's  extremes  must  be  had. 

The  sudden  development  of  the  northern  part  of  the  island  caused  by  the  building  of  the 
elevated  roads  has  swelled  enormously  the  value  of  real  estate,  and  inevitably  made  many 
fortunes.  In  1887,  the  total  assessed  value  of  real  estate  was  ^1,254,000,000,  a  gain  of  over 
150,000,000  in  one  year,  and  one  half  of  this  gain  was  above  the  middle  of  Central  Park.  The 
total  valuation  of  property  —  both  real  and  personal  —  on  January  1,  1889,  amounted  to 
$1,603,838,113,  showing  an  increase  of  over  8500,000,000  in  ten  yeai-s.  These  figures  are  too 
enormous  to  convey  any  very  definite  impression  to  an}'  mind  but  that  of  the  financier,  if  they 
do  even  to  his.  It  may  be  helpful  to  note,  in  this  connection,  that  the  giound  on  which  New 
York  stands  was  purchased  of  the  natives  for  twenty-four  dollars. 

AVhile  so  much  of  this  wealth  seems  to  be  directly  traceable  to  the  elevated  roads,  it  really 
lias  its  origin  in  the  exceeding  great  prosperity  of  the  city,  which  made  these  roads  necessary. 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE   WOULD. 


27 


Possibl}-,  too,  it  is 
a  prosperity  wliicli 
is  l)ased  upon  tlie 
gitraiitic  financial, 
connnercialand  in- 
dnstrial  interests 
centered  in  the 
metropolis.  What 
there  has  lx;en  so 
peculiarly  favor- 
able in  its  natural 
situation  and  its 
histoiy  to  attract 
thus  powerfully 
this  trinity  of  in- 


COOPER   INSTITUTE. 


MAUISOX    SQIARE. 

terests  and  to  give  it  in  its  turn 
superiorit}"-  over  all  its  former  supe- 
riors is  for  the  special  student  to  de- 
termine. The  fact  is  sufficient  that 
it  is  to-day  the  American  metropolis 
and,  after  London,  the  most  impor- 
tant commercial  and  financial  city  in 
the  world.  Its  connection  with  the 
interior  is  secured  by  water-courses 
and  hundreds  of  daily  trains  over 
tens  of  thousands  of  miles  of  rail- 
roads ;  with  the  rest  of  the  world  by 
ocean  steamships  to  almost  every  quarter  of  the  globe.  Its  importation  is  nearly  seventy 
per  cent.,  its  entire  foreign  trade  sixty  per  cent,  of  that  of  the  whole  United  States.  Of 
the  eight  million  emigrants  who  came  to  America  between  1855  and  1882,  five  millions  disem- 
barked at  New  York.  An  equal  proportion  of  the  bettei-  class  of  passengei"«  have  made  it  their 
destination.  Its  postal  and  telegraphic  business  is  from  three  to  four  times  that  of  all  the  other 
American  ports  together ;  so  that,  if  foreign  trade  be  made  to  include  all  purely  financial  transac- 
tions it  would  not  be  exaggerating  to  say  that  seven  eighths  of  the  foreign  business  of  the  United 
States  is  concentrated  in  New  York.  Philadelphia  held  its  own  as  the  first  American  manufacturing 
city  for  some  time  after  it  dropped  to  second  place  in  population,  but  it  had  to  yield  the  palm  in 
this  also  at  the  last  census. 

Architecturally  New  York  seems  to  be  on  the  eve  of  a  renaissance.  In  the  erection  of  the 
Equitable  Building  and  some  of  the  more  recent  newspaper  buildings  a  marriage  of  art  with  the 
industrial  spirit  is  dimly  foreshadowed.  The  tall  campanile  of  the  new  Produce  Exchange  is  a 
thing  of  beauty  that  promises  much.  The  fresh  young  beauty  of  St.  Patrick's  white  marble 
cathedral,  with  its  two  carved  and  pinnacled  spires,  maj-  suffer  in  comparison  with  the  venerable 
majest}'  of  the  cathedrals  of  the  Old  World,  but  it  is  notwithstanding,  probably  the  finest  church 
edifice  in  this  country.  It  is  certainly  a  very  significant  fact,  that  the  four  architects  who  have 
presented  the  best  designs  for  the  new  Episcopal  Cathedral  are  New  Yorkei-s  —  in  a  competition 
open  to  the  architects  of  the  world.  The  science  and  art  of  architecture,  so  far  as  this  country  is 
concerned,  is  undoubtedl}-  domiciled  at  present  in  New  York.     This  fact,  and  the  kindred  fact 


28  GREAT  CITIES   OF  THE   WORLD. 

that  a  spirit  appreciative  of  architectural  beauty  is  gradually  infusing  New  York  life,  ought  to 
afford  more  satisfaction  than  the  ability  to  point  to  numerous  flawless  monuments  of  an  attainment 
that  is  past  and  dead. 

New  York  glories  in  its  bigness  and  bus3--ness.  It  has  a  right  to.  But  every  candid  New 
Yorker  is  willing  to  acknowledge  the  defects  in  his  city.  He  appreciates  them  better  than  any- 
body else  can.  He  has  painful  recollections  of  its  political  shortcomings  and  vulgarities.  He  is 
well  aware  that  the  poorer  classes  are  excessively  crowded,  though  he  may  not  be  familiar  with 
the  figures  :  six  hundred  thousaiid  people  living  below  Fourteenth  Street,  five  hundred  thousand 
crammed  into  twenty  thousand  tenements.  He  knows  how  dirty  it  is.  And,  if  he  is  alike  candid, 
traveled  and  cultured,  he  will  be  enough  a  citizen  of  the  world  to  admit  that  his  city  has  but  little 
esprit  du  corps,  but  little  iinity  of  purpose,  life  or  attainments,  that  her  architecture  is  abominable, 
her  civilization  far  from  perfect  and  lier  society  dominated  by  dollars.  At  the  same  time,  he  knows 
that  he  has  little  to  be  ashamed  of  in  any  comparison  with  other  American  cities,  and  is  alive  to 
the  rich  promise  that  confronts  him  everywhere. 

New  York  is  indisputably  the  center  of  the  art  life  of  America,  so  far  as  America  has  any 
art  life.  The  Metropolitan  Art  Museum  has  at  last,  after  twenty  years  of  struggle,  attained  to 
the  dignity  of  a  nucleus  for  such  a  great  national  collection  as  the  Louvre  and  will  be  able  by 
virtue  of  itself,  and  of  the  enlarged  advantages  soon  to  be  derived  from  its  Metropolitan  School 
of  Fine  Arts,  to  give  a  real  impetus  to  art  education  in  this  countiy.  The  collection  of  the 
Lenox  Library,  though  small,  is  choice  and  very  helpfully  supplements  that  of  the  Metropolitan. 
The  National  Academy  of  Design  has  one  exhibition  each  of  oils  and  water  colors  annually ; 
occasionally  others.  The  "  sales,"  more  frequent  than  in  any  other  city,  are  sometimes  of  high 
merit  and  these  have  their  educating  influence.  All  these  things,  added  to  the  picturesqueness  of 
her  cosmopolitan  life,  are  attracting  artists  and  amateurs  in  great  numbers.  Besides  she  has  a  just 
cause  of  pride  in  the  actual  attainments  of  a  few  of  her  painters  and  in  the  growing  powers  of 
such  sculptors  as  Warner  and  St.  Gaudens. 

If  music  be  in  question,  no  American  city  will  venture  to  compare  itself  with  New  York.  It 
is  the  only  city  that  supports  grand  opera  through  a  whole  season.  Its  musical  life  lacks 
originality  it  is  true,  music  and  artists  being  largely  imported  ;  but  appreciation  of  the  beautiful,  if 
not  alwa3-s  in  itself  creative,  is  always  a  prerequisite  to  creation  of  the  beautiful. 

Theaters  cater  to  every  taste  and  every  stratum  in  New  York  society ;  there  is  cer.tainly 
no  other  American  city  where  actor  and  playwright  are  so  much  admired,  where  histrionic  art 
is  lield  in  such  high   esteem,  and  is   associated  witli  so  many  brilliant  stage  triumi^hs. 

Educationally,  New  Yoik  takes  a  fair  rank.  Her  public  schools  are  good,  Imt  Jiot  the  best. 
Her  city  college  for  young  men,  her  normal  college  for  young  women,  both  absolutely  free,  are  of 
a  high  grade  in  pratjtical  education.  Columbia  College,  which  is  really  a  univereity,  is  doing  a 
glorious  work  along  very  nearly  the  same  lines  as  Johns  Hopkins.  Cooper  Union,  the  gift 
of  Peter  Cooper,  is.  one  of  the  grandest  monuments  to  consecrated  wealth  the  world  has  ever 
seen.  The  building  alone,  admirably  adapted  to  its  purposes,  cost  six  hundred  thousand  dollars, 
and  is  readily  accessible  from  the  poorest  quarters  of  the  city.  It  contains  a  library,  a  reading- 
room  with  nearly  five  hundred  periodicals,  schools  of  science  and  art  free  to  all  and  a  School  of 
Telegraphy.  A  course  of  free  lectures  is  also  given  every  Saturday  evening  through  tlie  winter. 
Five  hundred  women  attend  its  "  Women's  Art  Scliool ;"  its  evening  schools  are  attended  by  three 
thousand  working  bo3-s  and  gii-ls  annually ;  and  twenty-five  hundi-ed  rough  and  not  over  cleanly 
people  visit  its  reading-room  daily.  Tliis  noble  charity  has  gone  a  long  way  toward  solving  tlie 
vexed  question  what  to  do  with  the  masses  in  great  cities.  New  York  could  have  no  surer 
defense  than  a  whole  girdle  of  Cooper  L'nions. 

In  literary  life  New  York's  record  is  not  to  be  underestimated.  Her  future  is  full  of  vigor  and 
promise.  If  not  the  metropolis  of  literature,  tlie  signs  of  the  times  are  that  it  will  be,  and  it  is 
indisputably  the  metropolis  of  the  periodical.  As  for  budding  genuises  and  would-be  litterateurs, 
they  for  some  reason  flock  to  New  York.  That  perhaps  don't  count,  but  it  has  its  Authors' 
Club,  the  most  strictly  literary  of  any  club  in  this  country,  and  that  does  count.  Other  clubs 
are  doing  their  part  to  season  the  Philistinism  of  New  York's  social  life  witli  the  literary  spirit, 
while  the  social  life  of  the  city  is  in  every  sense  that  of  a  capital  —  a  metropolis. 


GliEAT  CITIES   OF  THE    WORLD. 


■I'J 


A  few  years  ago,  Wm.  C.  Conant,  writing  in  the  Century  Magazine,  declared  his  belief  that 
New  York  was  to  be  the  tiual  world  metropolis.  He  found  comparatively  little  difficulty  in 
making  it  the  final  metropolis  of  the  United  States  ;  assuming  then  that  the  United  States  was  to 
be  tlie  great  nation  of  the  future,  his  case  was  a  clear  one.  He  went  on  to  prophesy  a  city  of 
fifteen  miles  radius  and  an  area  of  seven  hundred  square  miles,  a  site  so  large  that  if  one  half  were 
neglected  and  one  seventh  were  water,  there  would  still  be  an  occupied  area  double  that  of  London, 
and  sufficient,  because  of  its  water  fronts,  for  many  times  the  business  of  London.  "  Lower  New 
York  will  be  the  London  of  tlie  future,  upper  New  Y'ork  its  Paris,"  is  his  succinct  statement  of  its 
ilestiny.  The  argument  amounts  almost  to  mathematical  demonstration,  it  is  so  exceedingly 
tlioughtful,  logical  and  flattering  to  our  natiouiil  pride.  Still  such  forecasts  are  always  liable  to 
mistakes.  Many  a  flattering  prophecy  was  stultified  by  the  unforeseen  applications  of  steam  and 
electricity.  So  may  tliis  be  by  even  a  slighter  thing.  However,  it  is  so  very  pleasant  to  think 
about,  why  not  grant  ourselves  this  indulgence  ? 

'But  all  prophecy  aside  as  well  as  all  rose-colored  views,  of  literar}-  and  artistic  tendencies, 
letting  idealism  give  way  to  realism,  New  Y'ork  as  it  is  to-day  can  scarcely  be  more  accurately 
described  than  it  bas  by  one  who  knows  her  best,  Walt'  Whitman,  America's  "  good  gray  poet," 
in  the  following  characteristic  lines  : 


"  City  of  Ships!. 

(O  the  hlack  ships!  O  the  fierce  ships! 

O  the  l)Ciiutilul.  sharp-bowed  steam  ships  and  sail  sliipsi) 

City  of  tlie  world!   (for  all  races  are  here: 

All  the  lands  of  the  earth  make  eoutrihutions  here.) 

City  of  the  sea!     City  of  hmried  and  ixlitterinir  tides! 

City  whose  srleeful  tides  continually  rush  or  recede,  whirling;  in  and  out  with  eddie-  ami  fdnm! 

City  of  wharves  and  stores!  city  of  tall  facades,  of  marble  and  iron! 

Proud  and  iias<ionate  city!    jnettlesome.  mad,  extravairant  citv !  " 


CANTON. 


A 


TRAVELER  looking  clown  from  the  barren  tomb- 
covered  hills,  that  rise  to  a  height  of  over  twelve 
hundred  feet  in  that  part  of  the  Pearl  River  Valley, 
eighty  miles  from  the  ocean,  would  see  the  broad  Peail 
River  seeming  to  stretch  away  endlessly  in  either  direction, 
its  banks  for  four,  or  live  miles  of  its  course  almost  con- 
cealed by  boats  and  rafts,  and  its  central  current  dotted  with 
the  huge  brown  and  yellow  sails  of  Chinese  junks ;  and  back 
from  the  banks  of  this  populous  stream  a  circular  brick  wall, 
numerous  red  roofs,  a  few  large  trees  and  an  occasiorial 
tower  or  pagoda.  That  is  Canton  —  the  largest  city  in 
China,  the  most  populous  human  hive  of  semi-civilization. 

Within  the  city  walls  things  take  on  quite  a  different 
aspect.  Here  is  a  perfect  maze  of  narrow  streets  and  alK  ys, 
filthy,  crowded  and  unpleasantly  odoriferous  of  sewers  and 
putrid  fish  and  flesh.  The  one  and  two  story  houses  over- 
hanging these  so-called  streets  are*  closely  packed  and  \\  in- 
dowless.  The  business  quarter  is  as  animated  as  a  bee-liive  and  just  about  as  swarming.  Here 
are  markets,  most  extraordinary  affairs,  crammed  with  the  delicacies  of  the  season,  horse-flesh, 
dogs,  cats  and  edible  birds'  nests,  as  well  as  vegetables,  fish,  poultry  and  sucking  pigs.  Here  is 
the  Bazaar,  crowded  with  jewelers'  shops,  ivory  shops,  porcelain  shops,  tea  shops,  silk  shops  and 
curio  stalls.  Here  is  a  who^je  street  occupied  by  the  cutters  and  merchants  of  the  precious  jade 
stone  and  another  given  up  to  the  silk  weavers,  who  do  tlie  daintiest  work  on  hand  looms. 

Four  large  prisons,  a  few  high  ofiicial  residencies,  several  public  and  association  halls  and 
numerous  temples  are  about  all  there  is  in  Canton  besides  the  dwellings,  shops  and  markets. 
The  temples  are  invariably  surrounded  with  hawkei"s,  beggars  and  loafers,  and  are  none  of  them 
beautiful.  One  of  the  largest,  the  Temple  of  the  Ocean  Banner,  has  grounds  that  cover  about 
seven  acres,  divided  into  courts,  gardens  and  a  burial-ground  for  the  priests.  One  hundred  and 
seventy-five  priests  tend  its  shrines. 

The  river  is  the  most  interesting  feature  of  Canton  ;  it  is  the  site  of  a  veritable  floating 
city.  Here  three  hundred  thousand  persons,  who  have  no  other  home,  eat,  drink,  sleep  and 
work,  liealthy  and  happy,  though  despised  as  a  lower  caste  by  the  citizens  on  shore.  But  why 
indeed  should  they  care  for  the  land-lubber's  contempt,  when  all  the  necessaries  and  many  of 
the  luxuries  of  life  are  brought  to  their  very  doors  (or  gangways)  ?  Vegetable-boats,  fruit- 
boats,  fish-boats,  meat-boats,  duck  and  geese  boats,  confectioners'-boats,  flower-boats  and  firewood- 
boats  ply  in  and  out  continually  for  the  convenience  of  the  householders.  Crockery  and  clothing 
in  finest  assortment  are  displayed  at  convenient  anchorages  with  an  eye  to  trade.  A  search  among 
the  signs  displayed  at  the  mastheads  will  reveal  miniature  emporiums  of  everything  a  reasonable 
mortal  could  ask  for  in  the  way  of  merchandise.  River-bitrbers  and  river-doctors  make  their 
regular  rounds,  giving  notice  of  their  approach  by  ringing  a  bell.  Floating  restaurants  and 
hotels  accommodate  such  of  the  Cliinese  as  are  not  fortunate  enough  to  be  family  men.  Tlie 
priests  are  quartered  in  conseci-ated  temple-boats,  always  in  leadiness  for  marriage  or  funeral 
summons.  Lepers  are  banished  to  floating  pest-houses,  from  which  they  beg  a  meagre  living  of 
sailors  by  means  of  a  bag  tied  on  the  end  of  a  long  pole. 

In  the  evening,  when  darkness  hides  the  misery  and  squalor  of  this  river  city,  it  becomes 
beautiful  with  a  fairy-like  beauty.  Sweet  incense-sticks  and  candles  are  lighted  and  placed  on  the 
thousands  of  tiny  boat-altars.  Burning  gilt  paper  is  cast  into  the  river  as  an  offering  to  the  River 
Dragon,  while  Chinese  crackers  are  fired  at  intervals  to  keep  off  the  evil  spirits. 

Canton,  as  it  is  to-day,  is  a  monument  to  the  calm  persistence  of  its  peoj^le.  Devastated, 
re-devastated,  and  almost  desolated  by  invading  armies,  only  the  records  of  history  declare  it. 
Tlie  city  itself  tells  no  tales.  So  complete  has  been  its  restoration  that,  to-day,  with  its  nearly  two 
millions  of  inhabitants,  it  has  not  even  a  scar  to  show  for  all  its  cruel  wounds. 

30 


BERLIN. 


ErUOPE  knows  no  Cliicagos. 
Hit  soil  js  too  nincli  ex 
liaiisted  to  bear  the  Alackliii- 
reared  cities  familiar  to  America. 
The  fact  that  everything  across  the 
s(!a  grows  so  very  slowly  makes 
the  growth  of  Bjerlin  seem  ail  tiie 
more  remarkable.  It  is  the  nearest 
European  api)roach  to  Western  ex- 
pansion. First  mentioned  as  an 
unimportant  fishing-village  in  tlio 
tliirteenth  century,  it  had  in  1640, 
at  the  end  of  three  centuries,  only 
six  thousand  inhabitants  and  eight 
hundred  miserable  thatched  huts, 
in  1740  it  liad  ninety  thousand  ; 
at  the  end  of  another  century,  three 
hundred  and  tliirty  thousand  ;  at  the 
coronation  of  the  kaiser,  547,000 ; 
at  the  close  of  the  Franco-Prussian 
War,  826,000  ;  ten  years  later, 
1,156,000 ;  and  at  the  last  census, 
in  1885,  1,315,287.  From  1740  it 
doubled  in  sixty-three  years ;  from 
1790,  in  forty -nine  years:  from 
1816,  in  twenty-nine  years ;  from 
1840,  in  twenty-six  years ;  and 
from  1861,  in  less  than  nineteen 
years.  During  the  last  thirty  yeais 
its  popularton  has  trebled.  It  has 
been  transformed  from  the  capital 
of  a  kingdom  into  the  capital  of 
an  empire.  It  has  become  first  a 
national  city,  then  a  world-city. 

Improvement  has  kept  pace  with 
population.  To  this  end,  rivalry 
with  Paris  has  been  a  powerful 
stimulant.  A  city  bought  at  tlie  dearest  price  must  be  most  dearly  cared  for,  and  while  Berlin 
has  nothing  as  yet  to  compare  with  the  Parisian  boulevards,  or  the  Vienna  Ringstrasse,  it  is 
fast  becoming  one  of  tlie  handsomest  cities  in  Europe.  Except  in  the  oldest  jiortions,  and  even 
the  oldest  that  remain  can  hardly  be  called  old,  the  streets  are  long,  straight,  wide  and  bordered 
Avith  high  lionses.  Unter  der  Linden  Strasse  (the  street  of  the  limes)  is  lined  throughout  its 
whole  length,  of  over  a  mile,  with  a  double  row  of  fine  trees.  Ileie  are  the  royal  palaces,  the 
palaces  of  the  foreign  embassies,  the  tiniversity,  and  very  many  elegant  stores  and  public 
buildings.  These  public  buildings  have  the  advantage  of  being  for  the  most  pait  new  and  very 
close  together.  None  of  them  date  back  of  the  eighteenth  century ;  the  tinestjiave  been  erected 
since  the  struggle  with  Bonaparte.  The  Post-Ottice,  by  virtue  of  its  imposing  front,  eclipses  all 
the  other  Government  buildings.  The  Xatioual  Gallery,  the  Exchange,  the  Royal  Academy,  the 
Imperial  Pulace,  the  Old  and  New  Museums,  the  Royal  Bank.  Mint  and  Telegraph  Office  ar? 
every  one  on  a  scale  worthy  the  German  imperial  city. 

31 


STATL'p;    OI'    FRKDKItKK     IIIK    GUE-VT. 


32 


GREAT   CITIES    OF   THE   WORLD. 


In  spite  of  all  their  magnificeut  new  buildings,  the  streets  of  Berlin  are  on  the  whole  decidedly 
uninteresting ;  perhaps  it  is  because  they  are  so  sleepy  when  compared  with  the  streets  of  London, 
Paris  or  Vienna.  The  lack  of  animation  is  easily  accounted  for  by  the  fact  that  the  Germans  are 
preeminently  a  home  people  and  stay  in  doors  much  more  than  do  the  French  or  even  the  English. 
Yet  it  is  this  very  devotion  to  home  that  has  done  the  most  for  the  beauty  of  the  city  streets,  by 
making  the  Berliner  of  every  grade  in  society  go  to  great  pains  and  expense  to  maintain  a  garden. 
It  is  estimated  that  full}-  six  thousand  Berlin  houses  are  provided  with  this  luxury.  The  small 
scynads  of  soldiers  also  that  are  often  seen  marching  about  the  street^j  give  them  an  unpleasant  air 
of  military  punctiliousness.  Even  when  these  soldiers  are  not  to  be  seen  the  possibility  of  their 
presence  is  continually  felt. 

In  fact,  military  precision  prevails  in  every  phase  of  Berlin  life.  The  whole  city  service  is 
infinitely  organized.  The  particular  function  of  every  on'e  of  its  eighteen  thousand  and  seven 
hundred  individual  members  is  determined  to  an  almost  incredible  nicety. 

Nowhere  does  Berlin's  scrupulous  attention  to  details  show  to  better  advantage  than  in  her 
educational  work,  as  will  readily  be  inferred  from  the  fact  that  only  about  thirteen  thousand  of  the 
whole  city  population  over  ten  years  of  age  cannot  read  and  write,  a  large  number  of  these  being 
old  people  who  once  boasted  both  these  accomplishments,  but  have  lost  them  from  long  disuse. 
Her  school  system  is  wonderfully  logical  and  thorough.  At  the  head  stands  the  noble  University 
with  its  nearly  six  thousand  students,  founded  in  1810,  when  Humboldt  was  director  of  the 
educational  interests,  by  Frederick  WQliam  the  Third,  whose  long  sight  saw  in  it  as  much  a 
weapon  of  war  as  an  incentive  to  learning.  Though  still  young,  it  can  point  with  pride  to 
Fichte,  Schleiermacher,  Von  Ranke,  Helmholz,  Lepsius,  Curtius,  Mommsen,  Von  Sybel,  Du  Bois 
Raymond,  Gneist  and  many  others. 

Berlin  has  sometimes  been  called  the  "  City  of  the  Theater."  Every  effort  is  indeed  put 
forth  by  the  government  to  maintain  a  high  order  of  merit  in  all  theatrical  representations  and 
thus  to  make  them  a  real  means  of  popular  education.  A  government  ofi&cial  investigates  the 
way  in  which  each  piece  is  acquired  by  the  managers,  sees  to  it  that  it  is  suitable,  morally  and 
artistically,  for  public  presentation,  that  the  costumes  and  scenery  are  in  keeping  with  the  date  of 
the  play,  and  that  it  is  in  every  other  particular  properly  staged.  It  is  probably  true  that  Shake- 
speare is  acted  oftener 

f^"'^^=""""^"^^"^'^"^=^— :^"="="^^^^°^^ =-^_    ... ^__.,,.  ,.^.   _^^^,^^-^^^^     jj^     Berlin     than    in 

L  London,  and  Goethe, 

Schiller  and  Lessing 
may  be  heard  many 
times  each  season. 
The  theory  is  well 
enough,  but,  in  the 
view  of  many,  there 
are  two  such  serious 
defects  in  its  execu- 
tion that  it  is  really 
doubtful  whether  the 
development  of  the 
drama  is  helped  or 
hindered  by  all  this 
paternal  control.  In 
the  first  place,  the 
Intendant,  as  he  is 
called,  does  not  half 
do  his  work.  It  is 
simply  impossible 
that  he  should,  be- 
cause he  has  a  score  of 
other     governmental 


BRANDENTJURG   GATE. 


34 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD. 


duties  to  perform.  If  he  should  give  his  whole  time  to  the  stage  there  Avould  still  be  many  loose 
ends.  In  the  second  place,  the  censorship  tends  to  kill  out  all  spontaneit}-  and  originality,  so 
that  it  is  not  without  some  reason  that  the  Berlin  theaters  are  characterized  as  "  grand,  cold, 
respectable  places,  w^here  classical  dramas  as  well  as  the  most  modern  literary  dramas  are 
acted  by  a  company  of  highly  respectable  artists,  according  to  long-established,  immutable, 
orthodox  rules." 

While  Berlin's  right  to  be  called  the  City  of  the  Theater  may  be  disputed,  there  can  be  no 
doubt  as  to  her  right  to  be  called  the  Home  of  Classical  jNIusic.  Grand  opera  has  here  achieved 
some  of  its  greatest  triumphs.  HeiT  Niemann  and  the  Royal  Opera  House  have  attained  a  fame 
that  is  wider  than  Germany.  Kullak  and  Joachim  are  teachers  whose  names  will  not  soon  be 
forgotten.  Students  of  music  flock  hither  from  foreign  lands  and  find  tonlay  better  advantages 
than  any  other  European  city  can  furnish.  Paris,  it  is  true,  continues  to  send  her  prize  pupils  to 
Italy  for  advanced  instruction,  but  she  has  no  better  reasons  than  long-standing  habit  and  hatred  of 
Germany.  She  will  soon  be  forced  to  pary  this  tribute  to  her  rival  city  or  fall  behind  the  times  in 
musical  art. 

The  city  of  Wilhelm,  Bismarck  and  Von  Moltke  has  surely  a  glorious  future  before  it. 
Secured  by  its  strong  but  kind  government  from  disaster,  there  seems  to  be  no  reason  why  it  may 
not  keep  on  growing  numerically,  industrially,  commercially,  artistically  and  intellectually.  It 
took  tlu-ee  heroes  to  make  it  great.  It  would  have  dwindled  inevitably  Avithout  them.  But  they 
saw  so  far  and  so  Avide,  and  wrought  so  well  that  they  themselves  have  made  themselves  unneces- 
sary to  the  permanence  of  its  power,  and  Berlin  will  continue  to  be  great  long  after  the  last  of 
these  three  shall  have  passed  from  the  stage  of  its  manifold  activities. 


PHILADELPHIA. 


iHILADELPHIA  — "city  of  brotherly  love,"  chief 
town  of  the  land  of  Pastorius  and  of  Penn,  at  one 
time  the  leading  city  of  the  Western  world,  and 
standing  to-day  second  in  population,  in  area  and  extent, 
is  one  of  the  ten  great  cities  of  the  globe  and  is  excelled  by 
none  in  the  solidity  of  its  commercial  dealings,  in  the  se- 
curity and  beauty  of  its  home  life,  in  the  public  spirit  of 
its  citizens,  in  the  civic  pride  of  its  residents  and  in  the 
philanthropy  of  its  men  of  wealth. 

Situated  at  the  bend  where  the  winding  Delaware 
broadens  and  deepens  into  the  greater  bay,  it  is,  though 
nearly  one  hundred  miles  from  the  Atlantic,  one  of  the 
most  important  of  American  seaports.  The  extraordinary 
depth  of  the  Delaware  River  at  this  point  enables  vessels 
of  the  largest  tonnage  to  lie  at  the  city's  docks ;  her  custom  receipts  crowd  twenty  millions  of 
dollars  annually,  and  her  exports  and  imports  together  swell  the  sum  of  eighty  millions  of  dollars. 
Lying  like  some  mighty  octopus  between  the  banks  of  the  Delaware  and  the  Schuylkill  Rivers, 
the  Quaker  City  has,  year  by  year,  reached  out  its  great  tentacles  and  absorbed  into  its  munici- 
pality all  the  adjoining  villages.  Thus  have  disappeared  Frankford  and  Holmesburg,  Germantown 
and  Chestnut  Hill,  Manayunk  and  Hamilton  and  Mantua,  until  to-day  the  city,  stretching  twenty- 
three  miles  north  and  south  and  from  five  to  ten  miles  east  and  west,  has  an  area  of  one  hundred 
and  twenty-nine  square  miles,  or  nearh'  eightj-three  thousand  acres  ;  it  has  over  two  thousand 
miles  of  streets  and  highways,  three  hundred  miles  of  sewers,  three  hundred  miles  of  horse 


THE  LIBERTY  BELL. 


PICTURESQUE   PII I  LADKM'HI  V. 


36 


GREAT  CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD. 


i!i"i 


NEW   PinUC   BL'II.DINC. 


railways ;  and  houses  in  its  three  hundred  thousand  dwellings  a  total  population  of  1,350,000  souls. 
Adding  to  this  the  tributary  residents  of  the  cities  of  Camden,  Gloucester  and  the  immediate 
suburbs,  and  the  city's  census  is  increased  fully  one  hundred  thousand  more  making  it  the  rival  of 
Berlin  in  population  and  nearly  twice  the  extent  of  London  in  acreage. 

The  lover  of  the  rambling  and  the  picturesque  is  sometimes  prone  to  make  merry  over  the 
geometrical  regularity  with  which  Philadelphia  is  "  laid  out,"  but  in  no  city  in  the  world  are 
strangers  and  citizens  so  well  enabled  to  find  their  way  about  without  query  or  puzzle.  By  this 
parallelogram  system  the  houses  in  streets  running  east  and  west  are  numbered  by  hundreds, 
beginning  at  the  Delaware.  Market  Street  divides  the  city  north  and  south,  and  the  streets  take 
the  northern  or  southern  prefix  as  they  are  north  and  south  of  this  dividing  line.  Thus  number 
649  North  16th  Street,  the  stranger  knows,  will  be  the  sixth  "  square  "  north  of  INIarket  Street  and 
the  sixteenth  in  numerical  progress  from  the  Delaware  River,  the  house  will  be  a  trifle  beyond  the 
middle  of  the  block  and  will  stand  on  the  east  side  of  the  street. 

It  is  asserted  that  in  no  city  in  the  land  is  the  pride  of  family  or  the  aristocracy  of  "  blood  " 
so  dominant,  as  in  this  "  city  of  brotherly  love."  A  few  years  ago  so  marked  was  this  spirit  of 
localism  and  pedigree  that  it  was  asserted  those  living  to  the  south  of  Market  Street  considered 
themselves  of  a  finer  strain  of  blood  than  those  dwelling  to  the  north  of  the  dividing  artery,  where 
it  was  asserted  the  "  new  people  "  largely  dwelt.  But  the  enormous  growth  of  the  city  has 
materially  changed  all  this,  for  now  West  Philadelphia  (the  region  beyond  the  Schuylkill)  and  the 
noble  northern  extension  of  Broad  (otherwise  Fourteenth)  Street  has  carried  the  wealth  and 
aristocracy  of  tlie  town  into  other  sections. 

To  the  casual  visitor  Philadelphia  seems,  at  first  sight,  only  one  dead  level  of  brick  and 
marble  devoid  of  architectural  grace  or  the  lines  of  beauty  that  make  a  cit}-  picturesque.  The 
square- brick  blocks  of  houses,  each  house  barricaded  with  compact  wooden  shutters  on  its  lower 
story,  flanked  by  gleaming  white  marble  steps,  and  the  reddest  of  brick-sidewalks  —  alike  steps 
and  sidewalks  showing  the  effect  of  the  omnipresent  and  never-idle  scrubbing  brush  —  are  not  at 
first  appearance  hospitable  and  homelike,  and  one  does  not  wonder  at  the  legend  of  Franklin's 


GREAT  CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD. 


37 


\v;iiuic'riii<r.s  about  Philadelphia  streets  in  early  days  seeking  a  home  and  findinj^  none,  for  never 
an  open  door  or  un-shuttered  window  smiles  out  its  welcome  to  the  stranger  within  the  gates. 
But  in  this  too  has  progress  shown  her  hand.  Brownstone  is  replacing  brick,  board  shutters  are 
disappearing  from  lower  windows,  liglit  streams  from  house-fronts  instead  of  being  relegated  to 
upper  back  sitting-rooms  as  of  yore,  and  one  who  walks  the  streets  to-day  has  no  longer  tlie  feeling 
that  he  is  patroling  a  city  of  the  dead. 

For  Philadel[)hia  is  by  no  means  a  dead  town.  She  is  to-day  the  "livest"  of  live  cities,  as 
busy,  as  active,  as  progressive  as  any  one  of  her  noisier  rivals.  Since  1880,  her  popidation  has 
increased  four  hundred  thousand  ;  her  actual  property  valuation  is  to-day  six  hundred  and  seventy 
millions  of  dollars ;  she  stands  in  the  lead  of  American  manufactiu-ing  cities,  with  fully  fifteen 
thousand  establishments  employing  three  hundred  thousand  hands,  paA'ing  one  hundred  millions 
of  dollars  in  wages,  with  capital  em})loyed  amounting  to  over  two  hundred  millions  and  showing 
a  total  product  of  nearly  four  hundred  millions  of  dollars. 

Her  railroad  facilities  are  immense.  More  than  seven  hundred  trains  roll  in  and  out  of  her 
stations  each  day,  dispatched  by  her  three  controlling  lines  —  the  Pennsylvania,  the  Philadelphia 
and  Reading,  and  the  Baltimore  and  Ohio.  The  first-named  of  these  lines  may  be  estimated  as 
one  of  the  marvels  of  modern  America.  In  1887  the  Pennsylvania  Railroad  handled  over  one 
hundred  and  six  million  tons  of  freight  and  transported  nearly  seventy  millions  of  passengers. 
It  had  in  commission  1349  engines  and  32,101  cars,  showed  receipts  amounting  to  nearly  one 
hundred  and  sixteen  millions  of  dollars  and  expenses  rising  seventy-seven  millions.  A  visitor  to 
Philadelphia,  during  the  great  centennial  celebration  of  1876  when  nearly  ten  million  visitors 
entered  the  city,  being  asked  what  impressed  him  the  most,  replied  with  a  sigh  of  relief,  to 
think  of  the  crowds  and  the  possible  calamities  he 
had  escaped  —  "  the  Pennsylvania  railroad."  Its 
record  in  that  busy  year  was  a  triumph  of  execu- 
tive ability. 

The  glory  of  Pliiladelphia  is  Fairmount  Park. 
This  great  pleasure-ground,  washed  by  the  waters 
of  the  Schuylkill  and  the  Wissahickon,  its  three 
thousand  acres  diversified  by  hill  and  vale,  forest 
and  meadow,  water-wa}-,  ramble,  promenade  and 
boulevard,  affords  a  longer  and  more  diversified 
opportunity  for  the  rus  in  urbe  than  any  similar 
breathing-space  in  an  American  city.  The  Park 
has  thirty-five  miles  of  foot-paths,  thirty-one  miles 
of  carriage-drives  and  eight  miles  of  bridle-paths, 
while  fully  four  hundred  acres  of  the  three  thou- 
sand are  river  surface  or  winding  creek.  Within 
the  limits  of  the  Park  stand  Horticultural  and 
Memorial  Halls — mementos  of  the  great  exhibi- 
tion  of  1876,  while  just  without  its  borders  is  the 
oldest  and  best  zoological  garden  in  the  United 
States,  covering  an  area  of  thirty-three  acres  and 
stocked  with  i*epresentatives  of  the  world's  wild 
creatures. 

The  former  architectural  plainness  and  uni- 
formity of  the  city  has  materially  changed  within 
recent  years.  Indeed,  art  critics  express  the  fear 
that  the  trend  may  be  too  much  the  other  wav 
toward  undue  irregularity  and  a  bizarre  appearance. 
But  between  the  old-time  plainness  of  the  ancient 
Swedes  Church  —  the  oldest  building  now  stand- 
ing in  the  city  and  the  new  and  magnificent  City 
Hall,  the  architectural  Philadelphia  possesses  many 


~-^" 


TZ/!S=T/irOf/JlX 


STATl'E   OF   FRAN'KllN. 


38  GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD. 

noble  and  notable  buildings.  Steeped  in  the  odor  of  sanctity  and  of  antiquity  the  half  dozen  his- 
toric buildings  that  still  stand  as  relics  of  colonial  days  are  preserved  with  the  true  Philadelphia 
loyalty  to  pedigree,  and  Carpenters  Hall,  Avhere  met  the  first  Continental  Congress,  and  Inde- 
pendence Hall  in  which  was  adopted  the  immortal  Declaration,  are  the  meccas  toward  which 
throngs  of  American  pilgrims  annually  turn. 

Philadelphia  possesses  the  finest  post-office  building  in  America  with  the  exception  of 
Washington,  as  should  be  the  case  with  a  city  whose  carrier-delivery  covers  the  greatest  territory 
of  any  city  in  the  world  excepting  London.  The  magnificent  Drexel  Building  on  the  corner  of 
Fifth  and  Chestnut  Streets  is  one  of  the  finest  of  mercantile  palaces  and  the  new  City  Hall  or 
"  new  public  buildings  "  as  the  edifice  is  called,  begun  in  August,  1871,  will  when  completed  be 
the  largest  single  building  in  America.  Its  tower  Avhich  is  to  be  topped  with  a  colossal  statue  of 
Penn,  thirty-six  feet  high,  will  rise  to  the  height  of  five  hundred  and  thirty-seven  feet,  making 
it  the  highest  structure  in  the  world,  the  Washington  Monument  alone  excepted.  This  enormous 
building  coA'^ers  four  and  a  half  acres  :  it  contains  five  hundred  and  twenty  rooms  and  will  cost 
fully  fifteen  millions  of  dollars. 

Philadelphia  has  been  called  the  "  City  of  Homes  "  and  this  it  preeminently  is.  From  the 
large  and  luxurious  private  palaces  on  Broad  Street  to  the  "  boxes  "  of  houses  scattered  through- 
out the  northern  and  newer  portions  of  the  city  range  homes  of  every  rank  in  the  social  scale  — 
but  homes  always.  Every  house  has  its  conveniences  and  its  comforts,  and  it  is  claimed  that  the 
laboring  classes  of  Philadelphia  are  better  housed  and  obtain  more  comforts  for  a  little  money  than 
can  be  secured  in  any  other  city  in  the  world. 

It  is  such  home-life  as  this,  surrounded  with  such  chances  for  improvement,  culture  and 
growth  as  are  to  be  found  in  the  five  hundred  public  schools,  the  four  thousand  public  and 
private  libraries,  the  art  collections,  the  churches  and  charities,  the  parks  and  pleasure-grounds  of 
so  great  a  city  that  make  Philadelphians  loyal  and  unwavering  lovers  of  their  town,  and  it  is  such 
elements  of  life  and  growth  as  these  as  will  in  time  obliterate  the  un-American  pride  of  blood  and 
pedigree  that  sometimes  makes  the  Philadelphian  ridiculous  and  certainly  gives  the  cue  for 
scoffinff  to  its  rivals  in  other  States. 

The  city  that  was  the  first  capital  of  the  united  colonies,  that  was  the  most  important  town, 
commercially,  politically  and  socially  during  the  entire  colonial  period,  from  whose  wharves  sailed 
the  first  American  expedition  to  the  Arctic,  in  w-hich  was  established  the  first  printing-press  of 
the  middle  colonies,  the  first  manufactory  of  porcelain  in  America,  in  which  was  opened  the  first 
bank  in  the  colonies,  and  the  first  mint  for  the  coinage  of  United  States  money,  about  which 
cluster  some  of  the  most  sacred  of  the  deeds  that  have  made  American  patriotism  glorious  is 
to-day  a  mighty  and  evergrowing  metropolis,  the  manufacturing  center  of  the  country  and  in  the 
volume  of  her  business  enterprises  ranking  third  among  the  cities  of  the  United  States. 

Although  the  prophecy  of  George  Webb,  done  into  rhyme  a  hundred  and  sixty  years  ago  : 

"  Rome  shall  lament  her  ancient  fame  declined 
And  Philadelphia  be  the  Athens  of  mankind  " 

may  not  yet  be  entirely  worked  out  to  fulfilment,  the  fact  cannot  be  gainsaid  that  in  all  that 
makes  a  city  great,  successful,  progressive,  homelike,  happy  and  free  no  city  on  the  American 
continent  has  greater  opportunities  or  a  more  promising  future  than  the  city  founded  two 
centuries  ago  by  Penn  and  the  apostles  of  peace,  and  made  famous  by  the  immortal  compact  that 
brought  to  the  mighty  American  republic  through  conflict  freedom  and  through  revolution  peace. 


VIENNA. 


I 


N  1683  all  Christendom 
was  in  danger  from 
the  Moslem  powei-. 
Vi(;nua  had  been  invested 
by  an  immense  army,  and 
the  em2)eror,  Leopold,  had 
fled  in  dismay.  Enrope 
trembled.  The  fall  of 
tlie  city  seemed  inevitable. 
P.ut  it  did  not  fall.  The 
sturdy  endurance  of  Rii- 
diger  von  Starhemberg 
held  it,  until  the  dashing 
bravery  of  Jolin  Sobieski, 
the  "Wizard  King"  of 
Poland  drove  the  enemy 
away.  Vienna  was  the 
Waterloo  of  the  jNIoslems. 
Oddly  enough  though,  it 
is  to  these  verj^  Moslem 
enemies  that  Vienna  owes 
all  its  prosperity,  if  not 
its  very  existence.  As  far 
back  as  the  Crusades  it 
was  supported  by  the 
traffic  that  flowed  through 
it,  to  and  from  the  Orient, 
and  from  that  day  to  this 
its  steady  growth  has 
found  a  sufficient  cause 
in  its  ability  to  act  as 
middleman  between  the 
merchants  of  Constanti- 
nople and  those  of  all  the 
Western  capitals.  Had 
Vienna  fully  lived  up  to 
the  privileges  which  it  had  in  this  respect  it  would  be  much  greater  than  it  is  to-day. 

A  circle  within  a  circle  and  still  anotlier  circle  within  that ;  this  is  the  general  plan  of  Vienna 
—  home  of  1,275,000  souls.  The  suburbs  make  up  the  rather  irregular  outer  cii-cle.  The  middle 
circle,  bounded  by  a  wall  along  which  runs  the  Giirtelstrasse  boulevard,  contains  many  shops  and 
the  dwellings  of  the  people.  The  innermost  circle  is  the  home  of  government  and  aristocracy. 
Thirty  years  ago,  it  also  was  shut  in  by  a  wall,  and  despite  its  pretensions  was  gloomy,  crowded, 
labyrinthine.  At  that  date  Vienna  was,  says  Mr.  Von  Zelau,  "  a  somewhat  large  town,  built  in' 
the  style  of  the  Middle  Ages,  surrounded  by  moats  and  fortifications  and  separated  from  the 
suburbs  by  stretches  of  open  countrj^"  If  the  good  Viennese  of  "  ye  olden  time "  should 
be  suddenly  dropped  down  into  the  midst  of  the  new  Vienna  of  to-day,  he  would  see  very  little 
to  remind  him  of  the  city  his  earthly  probation  knew.  Yet  the  change,  great  as  it  is,  has  cost  very 
little  effort.  The  chrysalis  wall  falls  away,  and  the  butterfly  city  spreads  its  wings.  A  little 
more  space  was  the  one  fixing  needful :  the  thiowing^llown  a  useless,  anachronistic  fortification 

39 


FA9ADE   IX   VIENNA. 


40 


GREAT  CITIES   OF   THE  WORLD. 


into  its  encircling  ditch  gave  that,  and  uprose  the  New  Vienna.  INIagnificent,  modern  structures, 
all  that  the  city  could  need  or  desire,  went  up  everywhere,  and  still  there  was  one  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  of  room  left  for  the  boulevard,  the  Ringstrasse,  Vienna's  glory,  broader  than  the  broadest 
of  the  Parisian  boulevards  or  any  other  in  the  world  equally  long. 

The  Hofburg  or  Imperial  Palace  deserves  to  be  reckoned  among  the  treasures  of  the  Ring- 
strasse, though  it  sets  a  little  back.  It  is  a  huge  irregular  structure,  in  which  are  the  ajDartments 
of  the  emperor,  the  state  archives,  imperial  library,  crown  jewels  and  many  rare  and  very  valuable 
curiosities.  Near  the  Hofburg  ai'e  the  Hofgarten  and  Volksgarten,  the  Court  and  People's 
Gardens,  the  latter  of  Avhich  contains  a  fine  statue  by  Canova  of  Theseus  conquering  the 
Minotaur.  Close  by  these  are  the  Museums  of  Ait  and  Natural  History.  Hans  Makart's  painted 
dome  surmounting  the  Natural  Histoiy  Museiim  is  thelargest  pictorial  canvas  in  the  world. 

At  a  little  distance  farther  up  the  Ringstrasse,  the  fine  new  buildings  of  the  university 
appear.  This  was  the  second  universit}'^  opened  in  Germany,  and  like  the  Paris  university  reached 
the  zenith  of  its  influence  during  the  Middle  Ages.  It  is  still  attended  by  about  six  thousand 
students  ;  its  library  contains  a  half  million  volumes,  and  its  medical  faculty  is  world  famous.  The 
Palace  of  Justice  and  Parliament  House,  the  New  Rathaus,  New  Court  Theater  and  the  magnifi- 
cent Opera  House,  second  only  to  the  Grand  Opera  at  Paris,  the  Academy  of  Art,  the  Industrial 
Museum  and  the  Exchange  are  only  a  few  of  the  jewels  of  rare  beauty,  whose  luster  makes  the 
Ringstrasse  a  veritable  girdle  of  light  about  the  dark  old  citj'. 

But,  while  most  that  dazzles  is  confined  to  the  Ringstrasse  and  its  immediate  vicinity,  all  that 
interests  is  not  by  any  means.  At  the  very  heart  is  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Stephen,  Avhose  four 
hundred  and  fifty  foot  tower  projecting  beyond  everything  about  it  stands  as  the  hub  of  the 
circle  —  the  boss  of  the  city.  St.  Stephen  has  been  for  ages  Vienna's  chief  gloiy  and  even  the 
maornificence  of  the  new  town  cannot  efface  its  renown.  It  contains  the  tombs  of  former 
emperors  and  many  quaint  old  relics,  and  the  Viennese  are  loyal  to  the  old  relics.  Even  the 
gold  and  glitter  of  the  new  Opera  House  are  not  so  fair  a  siglit  to  the  loyal  citizen  as  aje  the 
pickled  hearts  of  roj-alty  so  artistically  shelved  in  the  Chui-ch  of  the  Augustinians.  Among 
the  numerous  coffins  in  the  dark  cellar  of  the  Capuchin  Church  are  those  of  the  wife  and  only  son 


HEIXKISCHOF. 


o 
o 


4-2  GREAT   CITIES    OF   THE   WORLD. 

of  Napoleon,  Maria  Louisa  and  the  Duke  of  Reichstadt.  Here  also  are  the  sarcophagi  of  Maria 
Theresa,  Joseph  the  Second,  and  other  members  of  the  Imperial  House  of  Austria.  The  art 
collections  of  the  Belvedere  Palace  (situated  in  *he  suburbs)  are  among  the  finest  in  Europe  — 
innumerable  choice  antiquities,  and  seventeen  to  eighteen  hundred  pictures.  Titian,  Rubens, 
Van  Dyke  and  Diirer  are  magnificently  illustratetl. 

The  population  of  Vienna  is  almost  entirely  Roman  Catholic  and  largely  German,  though 
there  are  also  Czechs,  Hungarians  and  Slavs.  Despite  the  varieties  in  nationality,  the  Viennese 
are  a  type  quite  by  themselves,  gay,  pleasure-loving,  exceedingly  given  to  dress  and  passionately 
fond  of  dancing.  Strauss,  Lauger  and  Gungl  have  furnished  the  Avorld  with  more  bewitching 
waltzes  and  polkas  than  any  other  trio  that  could  be  named,  and  in  the  brilliant  hall  of  the  Volks- 
garten  the  daily  concerts  of  the  military  bands  fill  the  nights  with  music.  Music,  in  fact,  in  any 
form  pleases  them ;  light  opera  they  adore. 

The  original  home  of  the  lady  orchestra  now  almost  omnipresent,  the  city  par  excellence  of  the 
waltz,  cafe  and  ballet,  of  priests,  beer  and  meerschaums,  it  resembles  Paris  in  its  gaiet}-  without 
aping  it.  Vienna  is  also  like  Paris  in  that  it  has  its  more  serious  aspects  as  well  as  lighter  ones. 
It  is  only  necessary  to  hear  the  names  of  Haydn,  Mozart,  Beethoven  and  Schubert  in  the  single 
department  of  music  to  be  reminded  of  its  prestige  in  many  departments  of  learning  and  of  art. 

In  the  broad  Burgplatz,  near  to  the  court  museums  stands  Zumbusch's  magnificent  statue  of 
Austria's  greatest  empress  and  foremost  woman,  Maria  Theresa,  noble  in  conception,  in  size  and 
in  adornment,  and  in  the  splendid  cafes  of  the  University  street  no  less  than  in  the  Bohemian 
q\iarters  of  the  Josefstadt  where  the  students  congregate,  may  be  studied  the  real  life  of  the 
people  even  more  than  in  the  great  rooms  of  the  mighty  Parliament  House  or  the  splendid  palaces 
of  the  Parkring.  .  New  Vienna,  rich,  steadily  gro\viug  and  lavishly  adorned  with  noble  buildings, 
broad  roadways,  parks,  sculptures  and  palatial  residences  is  to-day  one  of  the  wonders  of 
civilization.  ' 


TOKIO. 

IMAGINE,  if  you  can,  a  city  that  is  yet  not  a  city  —  a  city  of  vilhw.  People  an  area  almost 
equal  to  that  of  London  with  one  fourth  of  the  population  of  London ;  scatter  them  over  the 

whole  space  under  the  white-tiled  roofs  of  white  houses.  Fill  in  with  parks,  gardens,  meadows 
and  rice-fields,  orchards  and  sacred  gioves,  Avith  a  river  and  its  rivulets  spanned  by  arched  bridges, 
and  bordered  with  miles  and  miles  of  cherry  blooms  in  their  season.  Picture  a  city  all  green  and 
white  and  silver  fondled  by  the  Avaves  of  the  sea,  Avatched  over  by  the  toAvering  old  A'olcano  of 
Fusi,  and  you  have  To.kio,  the  Garden  City  of  Japan,  the  Garden  City  of  the  Avorld.  In  only  a 
few  quarters  are  the  houses  in  rows  for  any  considerable  distance.  Moats  and  canals,  temples  and 
tea  houses,  filled  Avith  charming  Avaiter  girls  break  up  the  street  lines  everyAvhere.  Tokio  could 
never  be  mistaken  for  a  Chinese  city,  if  for  no  other  reason,  because  its  streets  are  scrupulously 
clean  and  well-paved.  Horse-railways  are  just  beginning  to  be  used,  but  the  most  popular 
conveyance  is  the  Jinrikisha,  a  light  two-Avheeled  cart,  Avhich  has  been  aptly  described  as  "an  over- 
groAvn  bab3--carriage,  Avith  the  baby  spilled  out."  It  is  draAvn  by  a  coolie  A'ery  scantily  clad. 
Though  not  introduced  till  1870,  there  Avere  fully  twenty  thousand  in  daily  service  in  1885. 
Neatness  characterizes  the  houses  also  which  are  for  the  most  part  of  Avood,  tAvo  stories  high,  and 
painted  white  both  inside  and  outside.  They  are  extremely  simple  in  architecture,  absolutely 
without  ornaments  except  the  armorial  bearings  over  the  doors.  The  Buddhist  temples,  cloisters 
and  tombs,  hoAvever,  are  often  very  richly  adorned  Avith  the  most  artistic  Avood  carving  for  which 
the  citizens  are  so  justly  famous. 

Tokio  has  four  distinct  sections,  Siro,  Soto  Siro,  Midsi  and  Hondso,  all  of  which  lie  on  the 
west  bank  of  the  Sumida  except  Hondso.  Hondso,  on  the  east  bank,  bears  the  same  relation  to 
the  city  proper  that  Southwark  does  to  London.     Siro  is  the  center  of  the  western  portion.     In  it 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE   WOULD. 


43 


INTERIOR   OF   JAPANESE   SHOP. 


is  the  palace  of  the  Mikado,  an  immense,  rambling  pile,  also  the  palaces  of  the  nobles  and  highest 
state  officials.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  high,  thick  wall  and  a  wide  moat  about  which  flocks  almost 
every  conceivable  kind  of  screeching  waterfowl  —  a  strange  population  for  the  heart  of  a  great 
city.  The  Soto  Siro,  just  without  the  Siro,  is  another  aristocratic  neighborhood,  inhabited  for  the 
most  part  by  the  former  feudal  lords  and  minor  officials,  but  in  one  part  of  it  is  a  merchant's 
quarter  in  the  shape  of  a  parallelogram  completely  surrounded  by  canals,  and  far  removed  from 
every  temple  or  palace,  to  guard,  it  may  be,  nobility  and  priesthood  from  the  contamination  of 
the  bourgeoisie.  The  busy  traffic  recalls  vividly  the  marts  of  Western  cities,  although  it  is  much 
easier  to  get  about,  there  being  no  wagons  of  any  sort.  The  Midsi,  or  city  proper,  the  dwelling- 
place  of  most  of  Tokio's  population,  and  the  seat  of  most  of  its  life  and  trade  is  next  beyond  the 
Soto  Siro,  and  is  joined  to  it  by  a  number  of  bridges.  Here  the  streets  are  narrow,  closely  linked 
together  by  cross  ways  and  always  full  of  people.  Shops  of  the  highly-prized  Japanese  bric-a-brac 
are  numerous  and  make  a  very  brilliant  display.  Within  these  larger  divisions  are  many  smaller 
ones  with  strongly  marked  characteristics. 

The  history  of  Tokio  is  the  history  of  Japan.  From  1590,  for  nearly  tliree  hundred  years,  the 
Shoguns  or  Tycoons  resided  there.  They  obliged  all  the  feudal  lords  to  spend  a  part  of  the  year 
at  the  court  doing  them  homage.  It  was  this  that  first  gave  prestige  to  the  city.  At  the  begin- 
ning of  tlie  present  century  it  contained  over  one  million  inhabitants,  but  declined  as  the  power 
of  the  Shogun  declined.  The  Shogunate  having  been  abolished,  it  became  the  home  of  the  Mikado, 
and  in  1869,  its  old  prosperity  came  back.     It  has  to-day  a  poj^nlation  of  a  million  and  a  half. 

The  Japanese  are  apt  scholars  and  it  is  by  the  way  of  Tokio  that  new  impulses  enter  the 
countrj-.  It  is  to-day  the  center  of  Japan's  financial  and  intellectual  activities  as  well  as  the  seat 
of  the  Imperial  Government.  Some  traces  still  remain  of  the  old  feudal  civilization,  more 
perhaps  of  the  old  religion,  but  in  its  essentials  the  life  of  the  Tokio  of  to-day  is  not  unlike  that 
of  an  occidental  city.  It  has  its  theaters,  the  largest  accommodating  from  six  thousand  to  eight 
thousand  spectators,  it  has  its  society,  its  organizations  of  Christians  and  Free-thinkei"S,  its  indus- 
trial normal  and  technical  schools,  and  its  University,  with  faculties  of  Law,  Science,  Medicine 
and  Literature.  Above  all  it  has  in  its  fulness  the  spu-it  of  progress.  If  Tokio  continues  to  obey 
as  it  has  in  the  past  the  promptings  of  this  spirit,  it  will  soon  take  an  honored  place  in  influence 
as  it  does  now  in  point  of  numbers  among  the  great  cities  of  the  ci\'ilized  world. 


CHICAGO. 


CHICAGO  IX   1820. 


JUST  one  hundred  years  ago  —  in  1790 — a 
negro   refugee   from   the   horrors  of   San 
Domingo  —  Jean  Baptiste  Point  au  Sable 
by  name,  found  his  way  to  the   great  central 
lake  region  of  the  North  American   continent 
and   built  a  rude   log  shelter  on  the   bank  of 
that  narrow  inlet  of  Lake  Michigan  known  as 
the  Cliicago  River.     To-day  the  region  on  which 
that  log-cabin  stood  is  covered  with  buildings 
to  the  estimated  value  of  two  hundred  millions 
of    dollars,   and    in   place    of   the   one    negro 
refugee  who  courted  the  solitude  and  "  out-of- 
the-way  ness  "  of  that  narrow  stream,  the  sun 
rises  and  sets   on   a  city  with  a  population  of    one  million,  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand. 
There  is  no  American  miracle  of  this  nineteenth  century  greater  than  the  evolution  of  Chicago. 

More  than  this,  the  story  of  Chicago  is  beyond  a  parallel  in  the  founding  and  developing  of 
the  cities  of  the  world.  Inferior  cities,  says  Dr.  Barrows,  "  have  been  established  by  the  will  of 
sovereigns  —  such  as  Alexandria,  Constantinople  and  St.  Petersburg ;  but  Clucago  is  due  to  the 
personal  will  of  the  sovereign  people  combining  voluntarily  their  individual  interests." 

Never  were  individual  interests  combined  to  grander  results.  With  a  population  of  four 
thousand  in  1837,  Cliicago  quadrupled  it«elf  in  ten  years,  quintupled  itself  in  ten  more,  again 
quintupled  itself  in  twenty,  and  more  than  doubled  itself  on  these  enormous  figures  in  another  ten. 
The  business  of  the  insignificant  fur-trading  post  which  in  1820  only  did  a  business  of  twenty- 
five  dollars  has  in  1890  a  trade  that  exceeds  twelve  hundred  millions  of  dollars  and  with  aggregate 
bank  clearings  in  one  year  of  more  than  three  thousand  millions  of  dollars.  The  thirty-two  voters 
of  1830  have  swollen  into  the  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  thousand  voters  of  1890,  the  bushel 
basket  of  letters  that  constituted  the  accumulated  mail  of  1837,  has  grown  into  a  daily  despatch 
of  over  six  hundred  thousand  pieces  of  mail  matter.  The  twenty-five  school  children  of  1830  have 
become  the  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  j)upils  in  the  public  and  private  schools  of  1890 
educated  at  an  annual  expense  of  two  and  a  half  millions  of  dollars. 

This  comparison,  showing  the  startling  changes  of  sixty  years  in  this  city  of  the  Western 
prairies,  could  be  prolonged  indefinitely.  It  is  as  fascinating  as  it  is  stupendous,  and  is  an  indica- 
tive of  the  marvellous  growth  of  the  American  republic.  It  is  but  a  parallel  to  the  story  of 
wheat  in  America,  three  kernels  of  which  were  all  that  a  soldier  of  Cortez  had  with  him  to  cast 
into  American  soil  three  hundred  and  seventy  years  ago.  Yet  those  three  kernels  of  wheat  have 
grown  in  three  and  a  half  centuries  into  a  harvest  that  yields  an  annual  dividend  of  four  hundred 
and  seventy-five  millions  of  bushels,  and  the  bulk  of  this  enormous  product  of  the  meager  sowing 
of  the  old  Conquistador  is  handled  to-day  by  the  great  western  metropolis  that  stands  upon  the 
site  of  the  hut  of  the  negro  refugee. 

Chicago  has  made  herself  the  metropolis  of  the  west  within  the  last  fifteen  years.  With  the 
illimitable  prairie  to  occupy,  and  with  an  inland  sea  for  harborage,  she  has  to-day  an  area  of  one 
hundred  and  seventy -three  square  miles — the  largest  city  in  superficial  area  in  America,  and 
lacking  but  a  little  of  the  extent  of  London.  This  growth  —  in  area,  architecture,  trade  and 
metropolitan  power  —  is  almost  of  to-day.  In  1860  Chicago  though  enterprising,  pushing 
and  growing,  was  but  a  shabby  and  unattractive  city  of  one  hundred  thousand  inhabitants, 
muddy,  irregular,  straggling  and  decidedly  ugh%  In  1871  came  a  visitation  of  fire.  And  from 
the  ashes  arose  the  metropolis.  "  There  is  in  history,"  says  Chailes  Dudlej'  AVarner,  "  no  parallel 
to  this  product  of  a  freely  acting  democracy :  not  St.  Petersburg  rising  out  of  the  marshes  at  an 
imperial  edict,  nor  Berlin,  the  magic  creation  of  a  consolidated  empire  and  a  Csesar's  power.     The 

44 


PICTURESQUE   CHICAGO. 


4G  GREAT   CITIES    OF   THE   WORLD. 

north-side  village  has  become  a  city  of  broad  streets,  running  northward  to  the  parks,  lined  mth 
handsome  residences  interspersed  with  stately  mansions  of  most  varied  and  agreeable  architecture, 
marred  by  very  little  that  is  bizarre  and  pi-etentious  —  a  region  of  churches  and  club-houses  and 
public  buildings  of  importance.  The  west  side,  the  largest  section,  and  containing  more  popula- 
tion than  the  other  two  divisions  combined,  stretching  out  over  the  prairie  to  a  horizon  fringed  with 
villages,  expanding  in  three  directions,  is  more  mediocre  in  buildings,  but  impressive  in  its  vast- 
ness ;  and  the  stranger  driving  out  the  stately  avenue  of  Washington  some  four  miles  to  Garfield 
Park  will  be  astonished  by  tlie  evidences  of  wealth  and  the  vigor  of  the  city  expansion. 

"  But  it  is  the  business  portion  of  the  south  side  that  is  the  miracle  of  the  time,  the  solid 
creation  of  energy  and  capital  since  the  fire  —  the  square  mile  containing  the  Post-office  and  City 
Hall,  the  giant  hotels,  the  opera-houses  and  theaters,  the  Board  of  Trade  buildings,  the  many- 
storied  offices,  the  great  shops,  the  club-houses,  the  vast  retail  and  wholesale  warehouses.  This 
area  has  the  advantage  of  some  other  great  business  centers  in  having  broad  streets  at  right  angles, 
but  with  all  this  openness  for  movement,  the  throng  of  passengers  and  trafiic,  the  intersecting 
street  and  cable  railways,  the  loads  of  freight  and  the  crusli  of  carriages,  the  life  and  hurry  and 
excitement  are  sufficient  to  satisfy  the  most  eager  lover  of  metropolitan  pandemonium." 

But  all  is  not  "  metropolitan  pandemonium  "  in  the  great  Lake  City.  Out  of  the  noise  and 
struggle,  the  rush  and  crush  of  the  fierce  rivalries  of  trade  and  traffic  the  higher  qualities  of  an 
American  life  are  emerging.  Chicago  is  a  city  of  homes,  second  only  to  Philadelphia  in  the  pro- 
portionate number  of  people  wdio  own  the  houses  in  which  they  live.  Those  timorous  critics  who 
regard  Chicago  as  the  home  of  Anarchists  and  of  loose  methods  of  home  life  should  bear  in  mind 
that,  as  Mr.  Warner  says,  "  there  is  no  better  prevention  of  the  spread  of  anarchical  notions  and 
communistic  foolishness  "  than  this  ownership  of  homes. 

Chicago  is  the  child  of  the  railway.  Twenty-one  of  these  iron  roads  "  literally  surround  It 
and  actually  pierce  its  heart."  They  cut  through  the  parks,  they  thunder  through  the  fine  resi- 
dence quarter.  Over  them  the  whole  country  north,  south,  east  and  west  seek  the  Lake  Metro- 
polis as  a  market  or  draw  from  it  their  supplies.  One  of  these  alone,  the  Chicago,  Burlington 
and  Quincy,  operates  over  four  thousand  miles  of  road,  has  an  equipment  of  six  hundred  and 
fifty  engines  and  twenty-five  thousand  cars,  and  shows  annual  earnings  of  nearly  thirty  millions 
of  dollars.  Fifty  thousand  miles  of  surrounding  territory  is,  through  the  railways,  tributary  to 
Chicago. 

The  lake  commerce  of  the  city  is  surprising.  Its  foreign  and  coastwise  clearances  exceed,  in 
a  year,  those  at  New  York,  Baltimore  and  Portland  combined,  and  largely  exceed  the  combined 
clearances  at  Philadelphia,  Baltimore,  Boston,  New  Orleans,  Portland  and  San  Francisco.  The 
fresh-water  sailors  of  Chicago  may  yet  redeem  the  flag  from  the  stigma  of  America's  marine 
degeneracy. 

The  largest  city  in  territorial  area  upon  the  American  continent,  Chicago's  manufacturing 
statistics  are,  to-day,  enormous.  The  returns  of  the  census  year  of  1890  show  a  total  of  more  than 
four  thousand  manufacturing-  establishments  with  products  aggregating  three  hundred  and  fifty 
millions  of  dollars.  Her  thirty  great  grain  elevators  have  capacity  for  thirtj-  million  bushels  of 
grain,  her  shipments  of  lard  aggregate  three  hundred  and  fifty  millions  of  pounds  annually  and 
she  sends  to  the  dinner  tables  of  the  world  each  year  more  than  six  hundred  million  pounds  of 
dressed  beef. 

Architecturally  and  socially  the  growth  of  tliis  great  city  runs  parallel.  Already,  despite  the 
smoky  pall  of  its  factories,  it  contains  some  of  the  stateliest  and  most  beautiful  public  and  private 
buildings  in  the  world.  The  Art  Museum,  the  Studebaker  Building  and  the  new  Auditorium 
would  be  "  show-places  "  in  any  city  in  the  world,  and  certain  of  the  private  houses  are,  Mr. 
Warner  declares,  worth  a  long  journey  to  see.  "  No  other  city  in  the  Union,"  he  says,  "  can  show 
business  warehouses  and  offices  of  more  architectural  nobility.  The  mind  inevitably  goes  to 
Florence  for  comparison  with  the  structures  of  the  Medicean  merchant  princes.  One  might  i:ame 
the  Pullman  Building  for  offices  as  an  example,  and  the  wholesale  warehouse  of  Marshall  Field, 
the  work  of  that  truly  original  American  architect,  Richardson,  which  in  raassiveness,  simplicity 
of  lines,  and  admirable  blending  of  artistic  beauty  with  adaptability  to  its  purpose,  seems  to  me 
unrivalled  in  this  countr}-." 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE    WORLD. 


47 


The  social  life  of  the  city  is  that  of- any  young,  prosperous  and  rapidl3'-gro\ving  community  — 
composed  of  mingled  elements,  but  ever  growing  gradually  toward  a  tixed  condition.  Such  light- 
ning-like growth  does  not  allow  a  man  to  know  liis  next-door  neighbor,  but  time  is  certain  to  change 
all  this.  Chicago  is  a  city,  not  of  old  residents,  but  of  young  people,  who  have  gone  there  to 
make  their  fortunes,  and  its  "  society  "  is  of  necessity  that  of  the  new-comer  rather  than  of  the 
"  old-timer."  Club  life  is  vigorous  and  almost  metropolitan  and  includes  such  social  organizations 
as  the  Chicago,  the  Union  League,  the  University,  the  C'alumet,  the  Union  (all  splendidly  housed), 
the  Commercial,  the  Woman's  Exchange,  the  Ladies  Fortnightly,  and  a  legion  of  lesser  clubs. 

With  a  harbor  fi'ontage  on  the  Chicago  River  alone  of  thirty -eight  miles,  connected  by  navi- 
gation with  all  the  great  lakes  and  by  its  enormous  railway  facilities  with  every  state  and 
territory  in  the  Union,  with  a  marvelous  development  of  all  the  phases  of  civic  improvement  that 
make  a  city  the  only  place  in  which  to  live  with  comfort  and  enjoyment,  with  a  wonderful  past,  a 
phenomenal  present  and  an  incalculable  future,  Chicago  stands  as  one  of  the  world's  greatest 
cities  alike  in  extent,  in  population,  in  wealth,  in  commerce  and  manufacture,  in  possibilities,  in 
the  energy  of  her  people  and  in  the  broadening  and  refining  influences  that  wealth  and  growth 
naturally  bring.  A  city  that  can  recover  so  magnificently  from  a  devastating  fire,  that  can  lift 
and  move  its  greatest  buildings  as  a  child  would  its  toys,  that  can  tunnel  a  great  lake  for  six 
miles  to  obtain  pure  water,  that  can  make  a  wind-swept  prairie  blossom  into  park  and  pleasure- 
ground,  that  can  double  itself  into  a  round  million  within  ten  years  and  climb  so  rapidly  to  a 
front  rank  in  the  statistics  of  the  world  must  be  regarded  as  a  triumph  of  man's  indomitable 
pluck  and  unwearying  energy,  and  can  be  proudly  claimed  as  at  once  the  inheritance  and  the 
fruitage  of  American  effort  and  endeavor. 


ST.  PETERSBURG. 


O' 


^NE  day,  while  Peter  the  Great  was  watching  the 
workmen  who  were  laying  the  foundation  of  his 
city,  he  noticed  a  peculiar  mark  upon  a  tree  near 
by.  ''  What  does  that  mark  mean  ?  "  he  asked  one  of  the 
workmen.  "  It  is  the  height  which  the  flood  reached  in 
the  year  1680,"  the  man  replied.  "  You  lie  I  "  bawled  out 
the  rough  old  Czar,  "  it's  impossible,"  and  seizing  an  axe 
he  chopped  down  the  tree  forthwith.  That  Avas  the  spirit 
that  built  St.  Petersburg.  Peter  had  resolved  to  build  St. 
Petersburg.  That  was  enough  ;  St.  Petersburg  would  be 
built.  His  decree  sped  to  every  corner  of  the  Russian  em- 
pire, summoning  workmen  to  the  Neva.  P'rom  the  decree  of 
the  Czar  there  Avas  no  appeal.  AVorkmen  came.  Tartars, 
Cossacks,  Kalmucks  and  Finns  were  impressed  into  the 
imperial  service.  Building  with  stone  was  prohibited  in  all 
Russia.  Every  stone  mason  must  be  at  work  upon  the 
fortresses,  palaces  and  churches  of  the  new  city.  Extreme 
heat  or  extreme  cold  caused  no  cessation.  Thousands,  tens 
of  thousands  of  men  —  two  hundred  thousand  in  all  —  lost 
their  lives.  Others  quickly  filled  their  places  and  the  work 
went  on.  Before  he  died  Peter  had  the  satisfaction  of  see- 
ing a  permanent  population  of  one  hundred  thousand  estab- 
lished there.  If  severe  with  others  in  accomplishing  this,  he  was  equally  severe  with  himself ; 
nothing  ever  took  him  from  his  duty.  The  Czar  of  all  the  Russias  lodged  in  a  log  cabin,  which 
is  still  standing  just   about  as  he   left  it.     From    its  ceiling   is  suspended  a  miraculous  image. 


STATLTC   OF   THE   CZAR  NICHOLAS. 


4« 


GREAT   CITIES    OF    THE   WORLD. 


BKinr.K  OVER  THK  m;\'.v. 


his  companion  in  all  his  battles.  lie  thought  it  his  "  mascot/'  Peter's  real  "mascot "  was  his 
grit.  In  the  heart  of  the  city  is  a  monument  designed  by  Falconet,  a  magnificent  equestrian  work 
in  bronze  set  upon  a  huge  monolith  pedestal.  But  Peter's  finest  monument  is  St.  Petereburg 
itself.  It  is  his  city,  if  ever  a  man  had  a  i-ight  to  call  any  city  his  own.  It  was  the  conception 
of  his  brain,  the  woi-k  of  his  hands. 

And  yet,  to-day,  St.  Petersburg,  though  the  home  of  a  million  people,  contends  with  mighty 
odds.  Desolate  wildernesses  still  separate  it  from  its  own  country  ;  for  four  hundred  miles  in 
every  direction  there  is  no  large  Russian  city.  The  summers  are  just  as  hot,  the  winters  just  as 
long  and  cold  as  ever  they  were.  The  atmosphere  is  just  as  corrosive.  The  Neva  still  threatens 
inundation.  The  mai"sh  has  lost  none  of  its  greediness.  But  for  continuous  restorations,  it  would 
gulp  down  the  city  in  much  less  time  than  it  has  taken  to  build  it  up.  St.  Petersburg  has  still  to 
toil  and  suffer. 

St.  Petersburg  viewed  from  the  deck  of  an  incoming  vessel  is  one  great  glitter.  Gilt  spears, 
crescents  and  crosses,  golden  cupolas  and  star-dotted  towers  flash  everywhere. 

In  shape  the  city  proper  bears  a  rude  resemblance  to  a  lady's  open  fan.  The  Quay,  a  huge 
dike  of  rose  Finland  granite,  extends  for  about  a  mile  in  a  straight  line  along  the  Neva.  From  the 
central  point  of  this  Quay  broad  avenues  radiate.  Concentric  circles  of  canals  and  streets  cross 
these  avenues.  Most  of  what  is  finest  in  St.  Petersburg  is  to  be  seen  along  the  Qujiy.  Here  are 
the  Admiralty  buildings,  surrounded  with  gardens;  the  New  Admiralty;  the  Field  of  Mars  (a 
parade-ground  of  the  Russian  army) ;  a  statue  of  Peter  the  Great;  a  column  to  Alexander  the 
First;  the  Winter  Palace  and  the  Hermitage.  The  fine  art  collections  of  the  Hermitage  are 
attractine  larsrer  numbers  of  students  vear  by  vear  as  their  merits  become  better  known.  The 
Greek  and  Scj'thian  antiquities  are  invaluable,  and  the  Flemish  collection  is  one  of  the  finest. 

Russian  court  life  centers  about  the  Winter  Palace.  This  building  has  an  extraordinary  history. 
The  original  structure  was  burned  in  1887.     Whimsical  Nicholas  the  First,  the  reigning  Czar,  ordered 


GREAT  CITIES   OF  THE   WORLD. 


49 


his  aiclutects  to  rebuild  it  in  a  year.  It  was  dune,  Inii  at  a  lerriljle  sacrifice.  Several  thousands 
lost  their  lives  in  the  mere  laying  of  the  foundations ;  many  more  in  the  raising  of  the  walls. 
But  the  work  of  finishing  was  probably  the  most  fatal  of  all.  So  high  a  heat  was  kept  up  to  dry 
the  paint  and  plaster  that  the  artisans  were  forced  to  wrap  their  heads  in  ice.  When  after  their 
work  they  went  into  the  freezing  streets  they  were  sure  to  be  prostiated.  Much  splendor  but 
little  art  was  the  natural  result  of  so  much  rushing.  Nicholas,  however,  was  satisfied.  Barbaric 
splendor  delighted  his  heart. 

St.  Isaac's  is  the  most  gorgeous  church  in  St.  Petersburg,  perhaps  in  the  world  ;  few,  however, 
think  it  really  beautiful.  It  is  especially  famous  for  its  monoliths.  The  interior  is  one  blaze  of 
gold,  silver,  brome  and  precious  stones.  There  are  two  agate  columns  worth  several  millions  and 
eight  columns  of  malachite  forty-two  feet  high.  It  is  impossible  to  believe  in  the  genuineness  of 
such  prodigality. 

Industrially  St.  Petersburg  is  less  important  than  Moscow.  Of  the  manufacturing  establish- 
ments within  the  city  limits,  only  a  very  few  employ  more  than  twenty  workmen ;  the  average  is 
less  than  ten  each.  Commercial  interests  aside,  then,  it  derives  its  importance  chiefly  from  being 
the  home  of  the  Czar,  in  fact  it  is  often  spoken  of,  especially  among  officials,  as  "  The  Residence." 


THE   WIXTKR   P.U-ACE. 


50- 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD. 


The  court  of  the  Czar  hus  no  counterpart  in  miodern  Europe.  It  has  often  been  compared  with  a 
great  deal  of  reason  to  the  court  of  Louis  the  Fourteenth  of  France.  It  is  indescribably  sumpt- 
uous and  ceremonious.  The  innumerable  fStes  and  festivaLs  are  all  exceedingly  brilliant,  and  some 
of  them,  especially  the  religious  ones,  are  equally  curious. 

It  has  been  said  that  St.  Petersburg  is  the  head  as  ^Moscow  is  the  heart  of  Russia,  and  it  is 
true  that  through  her  gateways  much  of  modern  European  thought  has  found  its  way  into  the 
Interior.  Some  still  passes  that  way  but  less  than  formerl}'.  The  press  cannot  perform  its  legiti- 
mate functions.  The  few  papers  published  are  mere  machines  of  the  government.  Even  the 
literary  and  scientific  movement  which  promised  such  great  things  between  1859-69  has  been 
throttled  by  the  Censorship.  The  great  city's  finely  equipped  scientific  and  educational  institutiona 
and  museums,  her  magnificent  libraries  —  the  Imperial  Librar}'  with  its  million  volumes  and  forty 
thousand  manuscripts,  the  Library  of  the  Academy  of  Science  with  five  hundred  thousand  volumes 
and  thirteen  thousand  lare  manuscripts  —  might  almost  as  well  not  be.  For  of  what  use  are  the 
finest  tools  of  the  mind,  when  the  mind  itself  is  fettered?  And  St.  Petersburg — all  Russia 
indeed  —  stands  shackled  in  the  slave  marts  of  tvrannv. 


CONSTANTINOPLE. 


CONSTANTINOPLE,  by  name  the  City  of  Constantine, 
to  history  the  capital  of  the  later  Roman  and  the 
Ottoman  empires,  is  to  the  world's  consciousness  quite  as 
much  the  home  of  dream,  of  poetry  and  romance.  Like  Rome 
it  rests  upon  seven  hills,  but  with  none  of  Rome's  stern  majesty 
:ind  none  of  her  promise  of  eternity,  rather  like  a  pied-plumaged 
bird  from  the  citron  and  lemon  groves  of  the  far  away  Orient, 
alighted  for  a  moment  only  on  the  Bosphorus  shore  ere  it  wings 
its  homeward  flight.  A  Queen  City  it  seems,  but  the  Queen 
City  of  Fairyland,  conjured  into  being  by  a  single  wave  of  the 
wand  of  enchantment,  likely  to  vanish  instantly  at  anotlier  wave 
of  the  same  magic  wand.  The  minarets,  cupolas  and  domes 
of  mosques  and  palaces  white  and  golden-fietted,  the  red  .and 
blue  houses,  the  fresh  green  clumps  of  cypresses,  planes  and 
acacias,  make  a  rainbow  city  poised  between  two  blues  ;  above, 
:i  southern  sky,  below,  the  waters  of  the  Bosphorus  and  the 
Golden  Horn  blending  into 


"  The  liquid  azure  bloom  of  a  crescent  of  sea, 

The  silent,  sapphire-spangled  marriage  ring  of  the  land." 


Constantinople's  exterior  beauty  is  exceeded,  all  agree,  only  by  its  interior  ugliness  :  to  be 
admired  it  must  never  be  inspected.  The  streets  are  narrow,  steep,  crooked,  badly  ])aved  or  not 
paved  at  all.  The  houses  are  nearly  all  wood,  dirt}',  poorly  lighted  and  cheap-looking.  Men 
little  better  than  brutes  do  the  work  of  brutes,  carrying  on  their  backs  by  means  of  huge  pack- 
saddles  loads  that  actually  bend  them  double.  Dogs,  or  rather  yellow,  mangy,  mangled,  flea-in- 
fested curs  that  have  no  right  to  the  name  of  dog,  howl,  sleep  and  fight  everywhere.  They  are 
invariably  given  the  right  of  way  by  pedestrians  and  vehicles.  Even  in  Pera  (that  district  of  Con- 
stantinople on  the  Northern  shore  of  the  Golden  Horn  where  the  inhabitants  have  become  so  far 
civilized  as  to  use  tramways)  it  is  no  infrequent  thing  to  see  a  conductor  stop  his  car  and  use  not 


GREAT  CITIES   OF  THE   WORLD.  ",1 

vidloiice  l)ut  all  the  peisuasivi'  C'l(M|ueiu;e  he  can  inusiei-  lu  iiuluee  a  nasty  yelhtw  eiir  to  lit'i  hiiii- 
si'll"  oit'  the  rails.  Heggars  aie  thieker  than  dogs  if  possible  and  a  great  deal  dirtier  and  more 
lr(»ublesome.  The  stranger  who  so  far  forgets  himself  as  to  Ije  moved  to  generosity  by  their 
miseries,  speedily  regrets  his  tenderness  when  a  whole  street-full  of  these  vermin  swarm  about 
him  leaving  him  no  alternatives  but  bankruptcy  or  flight. 

The  stock  attractions  of  Constantinople  are  its  mosques,  bazaars  and  palaces.  Of  the;  lirst 
there  are  fully  four  hundred  including  chapels.  The  best  known  is  of  course  St.  Sophia,  originally 
built  as  a  Christian  church  by  Justinian,  who  adorned  it  with  splendid  columns  and  marbles  taken 
from  the  pagan  temples  at  Heliopolis,  Ephesus,  Delos,  Baalbac,  Athens  and  Cyzicus.  The  Mo- 
hammedans converted  it  into  a  mosque  after  their  occupation  of  the  city  in  the  fifteenth  century. 
Nothing  can  destroy  its  grand  proportions  and  impress! veness,  but  there  h  little  else  left  to  attest 
its  former  splendor.  All  sorts  of  parasitic  out-houses  mar  the  symmetry  of  the  exterior  lines  and 
the  once  rich  mosaics  of  the  interior  have  either  fallen  to  pieces  or  been  whitewashed  over. 

The  Grand  Bazaar  is  an  immense  vaulted  gallery  divided  into  a  numl:)er  of  smallei'  galleries, 
lighted  from  the  roof  and  devoted  to  every  conceivable  kind  of  trade.  It  is  a  veritaljle  city  within 
a  city.  It  has  streets,  squares,  alleys,  restaurants,  the  tiniest  of  cafes,  itinerant  venders  of  fruit, 
water  and  sweetcakes,  fountains  and  bath-houses.  There  are  workshops  as  w^ell  as  counters,  so 
that  it  is  often  possible  to  have  the  article  you  desire  made  to  order  "  while  yon  wait,"  as  Ameri- 
cans say.  Spinners  of  gold  and  silver  thread  for  instance  sit  barefooted  with  the  end  of  the 
strands  tied  to  the  big  toe,  and  lazily  smoke  cigarettes  as  they  spin.  Cotton  goods,  shoes,  silks, 
cashmeres,  precious  stones,  perfumes,  whatever  in  fact  is  useful  or  beautiful  is  here  displayed. 
Nearly  ever3'thiug  however  is  imported  from  Europe  and  is  not  of  any  value  as  a  souvenir  of  Turk- 
ish industry  as  credulous  travelers  like  to  think  it.  The  streets  are  always  crowded  with  repre- 
sentatives of  every  nationality,  the  most  numerous  being  Turks,  Greeks,  Jews,  Armenians  ami 
Fi-anks,  whose  varying  costumes  and  manners  add  greatly  to  the  picturesqueness  of  the  scene. 
Nobody  hurries,  however,  and  social  intercourse  plays  almost  as  important  a  part  as  buying  and 
selling,  th€  only  social  enjoyment  indeed  the  Turk  ever  exerts  himself  to  take. 

The  Seraglio  Palace,  the  most  famous  of  all  the  palaces,  is  a  large  wooden  affair,  built  for 
comfort  rather  than  beauty,  quite  ordinary  as  to  both  its  exterior  and  interior.     It  is  remarkable 


IN  THE   BAZAARS   OF   STAMBOLL. 


62 


GREAT   CITIES    OF   THE   WORLD. 


COXSTANTINOPLE. 


chiefly  for  its  situation.  It  stands  on  the  slope  of  a  beautiful  hill  overlooking  the  Bosphorus  and 
the  Golden  Horn.  The  hill  is  covered  with  vast  gardens,  running  streams  and  primeval  forests 
and  evidences,  Lamartine  thinks,  the  love  of  Nature  of  the  constitutionally  nomadic  Turkish 
people  and  their  uneriing  instinct  for  fine  sites. 

Incredible  as  it  may  seem,  the  bath  is  for  the  Mussulman  a  religious  duty  and  one  to  which 
he  devotes  a  great  deal  of  time  and  attention.  Numerous  brown-domed  structures  have  been  built 
exclusively  for  this  purpose.  The  Turkish  bath  is  no  longer  confined  to  Turkey,  yet  it  is  to  be 
found  in  all  its  aboriginal  awfulness  nowhere  outside  of  Constantinople.  If  there  is  any  one 
who  has  not  yet  read  Mark  Twain's  description  of  it  in  his  "  Innocents  Abroad,"  he  had  best 
do  it  at  once.  Another  institution  peculiar  to  the  city  is  the  Khan  or  Caravansaiy,  an  immense 
hostelry  giving  water  and  lodgings  to  both  man  and  beast.  There  are  fully  one  hundred  and  eighty 
of  these,  some  of  which  accommodate  several  thousand. 

Founded  by  Greek  colonists  as  far  back  as  the  seventh  century  B.  c,  Constantinople  did  not 
come  to  be  of  any  real  importance  till  nearly  a  thousand  years  later  when  Constantine  made  it  the 
capital  of  his  empire.  Since  then,  its  history  has  been  for  the  most  part  a  histor}'  of  sieges,  the 
most  impoitant  being  that  which  put  it  under  Moslem  control  in  the  fifteenth  century.  During 
the  last  quarter  century  it  has  suffered  from  some  terrible  conflagrations.  These,  however,  liave 
not  been  without  their  benefits.  Pera,  indeed,  has  been  modernized  quite  rapidly  since  the  fire  of 
1870.  It  has  now  some  well-paved  streets  and  European  bookstores,  cafes  and  horse-railways,  and 
old  Constantinople  was  driven  to  make  a  few  improvements  by  the  great  fires  of  1865  and  1866. 
In  1885  its  population  was  about  nine  hundred  thousand.  Industrially  it  has  a  very  nanow  i-ange 
and  even  within  that  range  is  nearly  dead.  Commercially  it  is  of  considerable  importance,  but 
almost  in  spite  of  itself  its  trade  is  not  at  all  what  it  should  be  from  its  magnificent  situation  and 
the  number  of  its  inhabitants.  "  In  Constantinople."  says  Theodore  Child,  "  tlie  Turks  camp 
rather  than  dwell  and  were  they  to  be  driven  out  of  the  city  to-morrow  they  would  leave  behind 
them  no  monument  of  their  genius  but  tottering  tomb-stones  and  tumble-down  wooden  houses." 
The  whole  significance  of  Constantinople  for  tlie  last  three  hundred  years  resolves  itself  into  just 
this  :  magnificent  opportunities  let  slip,  sluggishness  and  sloth  when  the  times  called  for  energy 
and  push.     It  will  never  realize  its  destiny  until  the  Moslem  power  is  either  broken  or  transformed. 


CALCUTTA. 


CALCUTTA,  the  "  Cit}'  of  Palaces,"  chief  center  of  the  East  Indian  tiarle,  capital  of  Hengal 
and  seat  of  the  Supreme  (xovernment  of  the  Britisli  Empire  of  India,  is  a  striking  example 
of  what  modern  engineering  science  can  do  to  make  a  place  accessible  and  habitable.  The 
river,  Hoogly,  on  Avhose  banks  it  is  situated  about  ninety  miles  from  the  mouth,  is  a  very  treachei- 
ous  stream.  It  was  rendered  navigable  only  by  the  greatest  labors,  and  is  kept  open  for  ships  of 
the  largest  tonnage  at  the  price  of  unremitting  vigilance  and  exertion.  The  city  itself  continues 
to  be  infested  to  a  disngreeable  extent  with  mosquitoes,  red  and  black  ants,  beetles,  snakes  and 
lizards  ;  cyclones  still  occur ;  the  "  ponka  "  is  as  indispensable  as  ever.  But  malarial  fevers,  cholera 
and  othei'  forms  of  pestilence  have  been  warded  off  by  an  elaborate  system  of  drainage  and  an 
abundant  supply  of  pure  water.  Since  the  date  of  these  improvements  the  death  rate  has  been 
greatly  reduced,  and  to-day  Calcutta  well  deserves  its  reputation  of  being  the  healthiest  city  in 
the  East. 

Like  all  the  colonies  of  Great  Britain  it  is  divided  into  a  European  and  a  Native  quarter. 
The  former  does  not  differ  materially  from  a  European  city  except  in  a  certain  aspect  of  leisure, 
an  airiness  of  costume,  a  predominance  of  the  verandah  and  the  colonnade,  a  scantiness  and  lightness 
of  interior  furnishings  and  an  amplitude  of  space  so  novel  that  the  Jesuit  missionary,  Father 
Charbonnelle,  after  seeing  Calcutta,  expressed  his  belief  that  "  if  Paris  were  built  on  the  same  sys- 
tem it  would  extend  itself  as  far  as  the  natural  frontiers."  Like  its  western  prototypes  it  has  its 
avenues  and  public  squares,  its  government  buildings,  its  parks,  gardens,  museums  and  race-courses, 
its  schools,  colleges,  periodicals,  political  and  literary,  learned  societies,  clubs  and  religious  associa- 
tions innumerable. 

Every  city,  from  the  veiy  fact  of  being  a  city,  sliows  painful  contrasts  of  squalor  and  magnifi- 
cence, but  nowhere  probably  are  the  contrasts  so  striking  as  in  Calcutta  ;  partly  because  there  is 
so  great  a  quantity  of  both,  partly  because  race  degradation  is  added  to  that  of  the  individual. 
The  ways  of  life  of  the  natives  have  remained  practically  unchanged  for  centuries,  and  their  town 
of  mud  huts  is  simply  one  vast  huddle  of  beggar}-,  disease  and  dirt,  of  which  the  creeds  of  beard- 
less Hindoos  and  bearded  Moslems  alike  seem  to  make  cardinal  virtues,  if  one  may  judge  by 
the  results.  So  far  south  as  to  belong  properly  to  neither  the  native  nor  European  quarter  stands 
Fort  William,  Calcutta's  chief  defence.  It  is  the  finest  fort  in  India.  It  accommodates  a  garrison 
of  twenty  thousand  men  and  has  three  hundred  guns. 

The  one  famous  event  indissolubly  connected  with  the  name  of  Calcutta,  whose  history  is 
otherwise  entirely  barren,  is  the  terrible  "  Black  Hole  "  atrocity,  and  this  is  famous  only  for  its 
tiendishness.  To  the  cluster  of  mud  villages  found  by  the  English  merchants  who  were  driven 
down  the  river  in  the  latter  part  of  the  seventeenth  century,  had  been  added  ware-houses,  English 
residences  and  fortifications,  when  in  June,  ITofi,  the  town  was  attacked  by  a  native  force  of  fully 
fifty  thousand,  flanked  by  nearlj-  as  many  camp-followers.  Historical  records  speak  only  too  elo- 
quently of  the  inefficiency  and  poltroonery  of  those  whom  duty  called  to  the  defence.  All  but  one 
hundred  and  seventy  fled  precipitately  down  the  river.  This  little  band  made  a  gallant  defence, 
but  finally,  fully  one  third  being  dead  or  wounded,  and  everj-body  else  exhausted,  the  survivei-s  sur- 
rendered to  the  overwhelming  numbers.  At  the  close  of  the  day,  all  who  were  still  alive  (one 
hundred  and  fort3^-six)  were  jammed  into  the  Black  Hole,  a  dungeon  about  eighteen  feet  square 
Avith  only  two  very  small  windows.  It  was  one  of  the  hottest  niglits  ever  known,  even  in  that  hot 
countrv,  and  to  this  natural  heat  was  added  that  of  the  burning  buildings  which  the  natives,  fren- 
zied by  their  victory,  had  fired.  All  the  poor  prisoners  suffered  cannot  be  adequately  describefl  or 
even  imagined.  Still  the  stories  of  the  few  survivors  give  some  idea  of  how  the  night  was  passed. 
Ineffectual  assaults  were  made  upon  the  door  at  frequent  intervals ;  agonizing  cries  of  '•  Water  I 
water  I  "  "Air,  air  I  "  were  incessant.  Water  was  brought  during  the  night.  It  only  inflamed  their 
terrible  thirst.  A  trifle  more  space  was  obtained  by  stripping  off  all  their  clothes.  Hats  were 
used  to  create  a  current  of  air ;  for  the  same  puipose  they  all  tried  to  rise  and  sit  alternately,  but 
in  this  attempt  the  Aveaker  were  inevitably  crushed.     The  heat,  thirst,  suffocating  pains  and  terrible 

53 


54 


GREAT   CITIES   OF    THE   WORLD. 


ESPI.AXA  I  )K.    C  A  l.tniA. 


stench  soon  put  nearly  the  whole  mass  into  delirium  or  stupor.  One  by  one,  as  the  night  wore  on, 
they  gave  up  the  struggle  for  life.  Toward  morning,  those  not  already  dead,  competitors  for  air 
being  fewer,  were  able  to  breathe  more  fi-eely  by  clinging  close  to  the  windows.  When  the  door 
was  opened  at  daybreak,  only  twenty-three,  less  than  one  sixth  of  those  that  went  in,  were  taken 
out  alive.  These  were  liberated,  the  lest  were  thrown  promiscuously  into  a  ditch.  For  about 
seven  months  tlie  natives  had  everything  their  own  way  in  the  town,  but  just  at  the  close  of  the 
year  Colonel  Clive  and  Admiral  Watson  restored  it  to  the  English.  Since  tlie  native  \iprising  of 
1756,  Calcutta  has  been  almost  uniformly  prosperous,  the  history  of  its  development  being  merely 
a  history  of  East  Indian  trade.  Bombay,  on  the  opposite  coast  of  the  peninsula  has  been  for  some 
years  a  formidable  rival  and  seems  to  be  rapidl}-  overtaking  it.  It  would  not  be  strange  if  Calcutta 
should  lose  tlie  supremacy  of  India  by  and  b}-,  but  its  railway  and  water^^■ay  connections  with 
the  interior,  its  steamship  connections  with  the  rest  of  the  world  and  its  industrial  products  are 
sure  to  preserve  for  it  an  honorable  place  in  the  commerce  of  the  East. 


BROOKLYN. 


TO  be  ranked  as  the  consort  of  a  king  has  ever  been  esteemed,  in  days  of  royalty,  an  honorable 
privilege.     To  exist  because  of  that  king,  to  grow  with  his  growth,  to  l)e  strengthened  with 
his  strength  is,  at  least,  an  evidence  of  power,  a  partnership  in  gi-eatness  in  which  either 
queen  or  city  can  alike  take  pride. 

Biooklyn  is  to-day  the  fourth  city  in  a  nation  of  sixty-five  millions  of  people  because  of  the 
existence,  the  growtli  and  the  power  of  that  metropolis  of  the  nation.  Humorists  call  it  the  bed- 
chamber of  New  York.  It  is  really  the  home  of  Nex\  York.  The  crowds  that  throng  its  wonderful 
l)ri(lge  and  fill  its  fleet  of  ferry  boats  at  morning  and  at  night  are  the  workers  in  the  metropolis, 
througli  whom  and  because  of  whom  New  York  City  is  possible. 

Incorporated  a  city  in  1834,  growing  with  comparative  slowness  though  with  certaint}-  and 
absoluteness  until  1870,  it  has  since  then,  and  especially  since  the  opening  of  the  Brooklyn  Bridge 


GREAT  CITIES   OF  THE   WORLD.  55 

in  1883  and  the  iiilroiliicliou  ol  lliu  eluviiU'd  niilioiuls  in  1885,  ^oni;  luiwaid  willi  nmrvolhnis 
strides,  and  the  suburban  town  of  a  few  thousands  winch  New  Yorlc  for  years  saw  fit  to  ignore  lias 
now  become  the  sister  city  with  a  popuhition  crowding  nine  hundred  thousand  and  with  business 
interests  of  its  own  that  threaten  to  rival  even  those  of  the  metropolis  itself. 

Brooklyn  has  been  called  for  years  "the  City  of  Churches."  The  title  is  not  undeserved. 
At  least  fifty  per  cent,  of  its  populatioii  are  attendants  upon  the  three  hundred  and  fiftj'  churches, 
one  hundred  thousand  children  are  scholars  in  its  three  hundred  Sunday  Schools,  and  their  unique 
June  festival  is  called  "  St.  Children's  Day."  The  names  of  certain  of  its  famous  clergymen  are 
as  household  words  to  the  ears  of  all  Americans.  A  statue  of  Henry  Ward  Beecher  —  Brooklyn 
and  America's  greatest  preacher — is  to  adorn  one  of  its  public  squares.  The  church  presupposes 
the  home  and,  even  more  than  the  city  of  churches,  is  Brooklyn  a  city  of  homes.  With  over  four 
hundred  millions  in  taxable  real  estate  fully  eighty  per  cent,  of  its  buildings  are  dwellings ;  of 
forty-tive  thousand  buildings  erected  since  1874,  thirty-five  thousand  are  dwelling-houses.  Its 
horse  and  elevated  railroads  carried  in  1889  over  one  hundred  and  sixty-three  millions  of  passen- 
gers and  the  daily  traffic  on  its  great  bridge  reaches  one  hundred  and  twenty-live  thousand. 

Of  its  giant  structure  —  now  one  of  the  wonders  of  the  world  — the  statistics  are  equally 
niiissive.  It  was  thirteen  3-ears  in  building  and  cost  over  fifteen  millions  of  dollars.  It  bridges 
with  a  single  central  span  an  arm  of  the  sea,  known  as  the  East  River,  nearl}-  sixteen  hundred 
feot  in  width  while  the  total  length  of  the  bridge  from  the  Brooklyn  to  the  New  York  entrance  is 
six  thousand  feet.  The  width  of  the  bridge  is  eighty-five  feet,  the  weight  of  the  structure  sup- 
ported from  cables  is  nearly  fifteen  thousand  tons,  the  clear  height  of  the  bridge  in  the  center  of 
the  river  span  is  one  hundred  and  thirty-five  feet  while  the  height  of  the  towers  over  which  the  great 
cables  run  is  two  hundred  and  seventy-eight  feet  above  high  water.  The  service  of  the  bridge  em- 
ploys as  collectors,  gatemen,  conductors  and  policemen  two  hundred  and  fifty  persons,  and  the 
cable  trains  that  cross  it  have  a  speed  of  ten  miles  an  hour. 

The  rapid  growth  of  Brooklyn  during  the  past  ten  years  luis  tested  its  educational  facilities  to 
the  utmost.  It  has  to-da}'  in  its  .one  hundred  public  schools  nearly  one  hundred  thousand  scholars, 
and  its  annual  appro])riations  for  educational  purposes  exceeds  two  millions  of  dollars.  Brooklyn, 
because  of  the  pressure  on  its  public  school  accommodations,  has  for  years  been  a  city  of  many 
private  schools.  Some  of  these  educational  institutions,  such  as  "Packer  "  and  the  "Polytechnic  " 
have  a  national  reputation ;  the  Adelphi  Academy  has  a  roll  of  nearly  one  thousand  students  and 
the  new  Pratt  Institute,  devoted  to  instruction  in  the  technical  and  industrial  departments,  is  one 
of  the  best  furnished  industrial  institutes  in  the  land. 

The  magnificent  water-front  of  Brookh'u  presents  ample  facilities  for  harborage  and  wharf 
accommodations  and  this  phase  of  commercial  activity  is  growing  rapidly.  Every  country  on  the 
globe  is  represented  in  the  cargoes  daily  delivered  on  the  Brooklyn  wharves,  the  warehonses  along 
the  water-front  huxe  an  enormous  cubic  capacit}*^  while  the  granaries  of  Brooklyn  are  unequaled  in 
any  seaport  in  the  world.  The  nineteen  great  grain  elevators,  with  a  capacity  of  nearl}-  seventeen 
million  bushels,  handled  d^uring  1889  over  thirty-three  million  bushels,  and  each  elevator  is  capable 
of  emptying  an  eight  thousand  bushel  canal-boat  in  less  than  two  hours,  of  loading  a  ship  at  the 
rate  of  eight  thousand  bushels  an  hour,  of  taking  up  nearly  nine  hundred  million  bushels  of  grain 
in  a  working  day  of  twelve  hours  and  of  transfering  to  steamers  during  the  same  period  nearly  two 
millions  of  bushels. 

For  years  Brooklyn  depended  for  its  shopping  and  purchasing  facilities  upon  New  York,  but 
within  the  past  ten  years  the  growth  of  mercantile  enterprise  has  kejit  pace  with  the  increase  in 
population.  Fulton  Street,  which  formerly  centered  its  limited  retail  trade  about  the  city  hall,  is 
now  lined  with  shops  and  great  retail  establishments  as  far  "up  town  "  as  Bedford  Avenue,  while 
in  the  Eastern  district  of  the  city  (or  what  was  once  AVilliamsburg)  great  stores  on  Broadway  or 
Fourth  Street  constitute  another  trade  center. 

Brooklyn's  most  famous  suburb  is  Coney  Island.  Private  and  public  enterprise  have  combined 
to  make  of  a  long  stretch  of  level  sand  a  great  seaside  resort,  thronged  with  hotels  and  pleasure- 
spots  while  a  broad  driveway  five  and  a  half  miles  long  and  two  hundred  and  ten  feet  wide  con- 
nects this  stretcli  of  ocean  beach  with  the  woodland,  meadows,  lakes  and  drives  of  Prospect  Park, 
a  beautiful  pleasure-ground  of  over  five  hundred  acres. 


56 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE    WORLD. 


THE  BRIDGE  FROM   THE   BROOKLYN   SIDE. 


Laid,  like  an  open  palm,  upon  the  western  end  of  Long  Island,  with  an  area  of  nearly  thirty 
square  miles,  and  all  Long  Island  behind  it  for  growing  space,  Brooklyn's  future  is  among  the  great 
possibilities  of  the  nation.  And  yet,  self-existent  and  self-centered  as  it  is,  with  local  industries 
and  local  commerce  that  could  alone  support  a  great  city,  Brookl^-n  cannot  be  deemed  as  other 
than  New  York's  greatest  suburb.  Local,  almost  provincial,  in  much  of  its  inner  life  and  its  im- 
mediate surroundings,  it  yet  owes  its  bigness,  its  prosperity,  its  very  existence,  indeed,  to  the  great 
city  beyond  the  bridge.  Year  by  year  the  bond  of  union-  grows  stronger  and  more  apparent,  and 
the  Brooklyn  that  twenty  years  ago  was  almost  a  terra  incognita,  an  unexplored  region  to  the 
average  New  Yorker,  may  in  time,  even  as  the  surroundings  of  the  world's  greatest  city  are  known 
as  Greater  London,  become  Greater  New  York. 


BOMBAY. 


FLANKED  bv  lofty  mountains,  guarded  l)y  islands  and  cliffs,  fronting  a  summer  sea  and 
embowered  in  a  tropical  verdure,  Bombay  occupies  its  island  seat  ujion  the  Malabar 
coast  —  the  Naples  of  Asia,  the  Liverpool  of  India. 
The  approach  to  this  noblest  city  of  the  Orient  affords  one  of  the  finest  panoramas  in  the 
Avorld  in  its  splendid  combination  of  sea  and  shore.  Its  buildings  comprise  some  of  the  finest  in 
India,  and  the  enterprise  of  its  merchants  is  making  it  the  rival  of  Calcutta  for  the  commercial 
supremacy  of  England  in  Asia.  The  city  occupies  an  island  with  an  area  of  twenty-two  square 
miles  and  has,  to-da}',  a  population  of  nearly  eight  hundred  thousand.  Railway  causeways  con- 
nect it  with  ■  the  mainland,  and  the  natural  scfenery  and  sanitary  conditions  make  it  the  hand- 
somest and  the  healthiest  of  the  cities  of  India. 

Of  the  eight  hundred  thousand  inhabitants  of  Bombay  more  than  half  are  Hindoos,  nearly 
one  hundred  and  sixty  thousand  are  Mohammedans,  Parsees,  Jews,  Negroes,  half-breeds  and 
Chinese  and  between  ten  and  eleven  thousand  are  Europeans.  The  Parsees  and  the  Euroijeans. 
however,   are   the  merchants   and    capitalists    of    the    city.     Between  the   years  1861  and    1866 


GREAT  CITIES   OF  THE   WORLD. 


57 


it  is  estimated  that  the  cotton  receipts  ot 
Bombay  exceeded  tliose  in  the  live  years 
preceding  by  fully  four  hundred  million 
dollars. 

Malabar  Hill  and  Breach  Candy,  the 
western  suburbs  of  the  city,  look  out 
upon  the  blue  waters  of  the  Arabian  Sea. 
It  is  here  that  the  European  residents 
have  their  private  liouses,  each  sur- 
rounded by  a  large  garden,  and  affording 
magnificent  sites  for  beautiful  homes. 

But  despite  its  splendid  situation 
Bombay  is  a  commercial  rather  than  a 
picturesque  city.  It  has  the  finest  mar- 
ket in  India,  and  is  the  center  of  many 
progressive  and  important  industries. 
Its  cotton  spinning  and  weaving  mills 
give  employment  to  over  twelve  thou- 
sand hands.  Its  exportation  of  opium 
and  wheat  are  large,  and  its  brass 
workers  constitute  a  strong  and  impor- 
tant guild. 

Of  all  the  inhabitants  of  this  flourish- 
ing Indian  city,  none  are  more  interest- 
ing, as  none  are  more  prosperous  than 
the  Parsis  or  Parsees,  those  descendants 
of  the  old-time  fire-worshippers  of  Persia 
wlio,  on  the  conquest  of  their  countr}-  by 
the  Arabs  in  the  first  half  of  the  eiirhth 

century,  emigrated  to  India  and  settled  largely  in  and  abottt  Bombay.  Active,  intelligent,  pro- 
gressive and  shrewd,  these  old-time  Persians  have  largel}'  monopolized  tlie  business  enterprises 
of  India,  and  here,  in  Bombay,  number  to-day  nearly  eighty  thousand.  They  control  the  opium 
jiroduct  of  India,  their  credit  as  merchants  is  almost  unlimited,  and  fifty  large  commercial  houses 
in  Bombay  are  controlled  by  Parsee  enterprise.  Of  all  the  natives  of  India  they  are  the  most 
progressive  and  tlie  most  anxious  to  secure  the  benefits  of  English  education  and  culture.  Their 
benevolence,  hospitality  and  sociability  are  proverbial,  and  their  home-life  is  as  peculiar  and  inter- 
esting as  their  costume  is  picturesque.  A  beggar  is  unknown  among  them  and  in  the  city  of 
Bombay  alone  they  have  thirty-two  charitable  institutions. 

Upon  the  highest  point  of  Malabar  Hill  there  rises  above  the  encircling  verdure  a  numlter  of 
small  towers,  not  over  twenty-five  feet  high,  over  which  wheels  and  circles  a  flight  of  vultures. 
These  are  the  dakhmas,  the  famous  "  towers  of  silence  "  whereon  for  a  certain  space  the  Parsees 
expose  their  dead.  Borne  hither  from  the  Parsee  quarter  with  much  ceremony  the  body  is  left  in 
the  pit  encircled  by  the  tower  until  the  attendant  vultures  liave  with  their  sharp  beaks  stripped 
away  the  flesh  and  the  denuded  bones  drop  into  a  receptacle  beneath.  But  while  the  bones  are 
thus  exposed  to  voracious  birds  of  prey,  in  the  Parsee  home  the  most  beautiful  and  tender 
memorial  rites  are  celebrated  on  each  recurring  anniversary  of  death. 

These  most  interesting  people  of  Asia  are  of  the  greatest  value  to  the  development  of  India, 
and  as  their  progressive  desires  and  tlie  effect  of  Western  contact  and  culture  lead  tliem  from  the 
ancient  forms  and  superstitions,  their  energy,  thrift  and  commercial  enterprise  will  lace  Bombay 
in  the  lead  of  Asiatic  cities  as  the  most  successful  and  metropolitan. 

While  Calcutta  is  standing  still  and  Madras  seems  visibly  declining,  Bombay  is  increasing  in 
wealth,  importance  and  influence,  and  will  speedily  control  the  market  and  business  enterprise  of 
the  East. 


A  UIXDOO   TEMl'LE   IX   THE   BLACK   TOWX,    BOMBAY. 


MOSCOW. 


I 


THK   GUKAl     IIKLL. 


'N  the  center  of  that  division  of  the  dominions  of  the 
Czar  known  as  Great  Russia,  four  liundred  miles 
south  east  from  St.  Petersburg,  as  the  crow  flies  and 
the  ruler-marked  railroad  of  the  Czar  Nicholas  runs, 
stands  an  eminence  known  as  the  Sparrow  Hill.  From 
this  eminence,  three  quarters  of  a  century  ago,  the  great 
Napoleon  after  he  had  overthrown  the  army  of  the  Czar 
at  Borodino  looked  down  upon  the  conquered  capital  of 
all  the  Russias  lying  prostrate  at  his  feet.  Six  days  after- 
ward, the  burning  capital  ruined  by  its  own  inhabitants, 
gave  to  the  conqueror  neither  shelter  nor  submission,  and 
at  this  flaming  barrier  Napoleon  turned  back  from  his 
dream  of  conquest,  a  defeated,  dispirited  man. 

As  Moscow  stood  then,  so  had  it  stood  for  five  hun- 
dred years  and  so  it  stands  to-day,  the  richest,  most  inter- 
esting and  most  original  of  the  Czar's  treasure  cities. 

Looking  to-day  from  the  summit  of  the  Sparrow  Hill 
the  tourist  can  study  the  topography  of  the  old  Russian 
capital  even  as  Napoleon  studied  it  seventy-five  years  ago. 
"  At  fii-st,"  says  Di-.  Wight  who  visited  Moscow  in  1887, 
"  the  city  appeared  to  me  an  irregular  mass  of  buildings, 
spread  out  widely,  with  many  spires  of  churches  rising  at 
intervals  in  a  confused  maze.  Closer  observation,  with 
the  aid  of  a  map  and  a  good  glass,  showed  the  Kreml,  or  Kremlin,  on  an  eminence  in  the  center, 
with  its  heavy  surrounding  wall  nearly  two  miles  in  circumference,  enclosing  religious  temples, 
an  arsenal  and  an  imperial  palace,  wliose  gilded  and  colored  domes  -were  resplendent  in  the 
morning  sun,  bearing  some  resemblance  to  the  Acropolis  at  Atliens,  or  the  Capitol  at  Rome. 
The  river  Moskva  runs  through  the  city,  winding  under  the  walls  of  the  Kremlin,  crossed  l)y 
stone  bridges  which  look  very  picturesque.  On -the  north  side  of  the  river  boulevards  circle 
round  the  Kremlin,  about  one  mile  from  its  center.  Half  a  mile  farther  out  is  another  circle  of 
boulevards.  The  outer  rampart  of  the  city  has  a  circumference  of  more  than  twenty  miles. 
Gardens,  parks,  palaces  and  convents  enrich  tlie  view  of  a  semi-oriental  city,  which  is  the  ecclesi- 
astical capital  of  the  empire." 

The  chief  interest  to  the  visitor  in  Moscow  centers  of  coui-se  in  the  Kremlin  —  that  triangular 
enclosure  of  fully  ninety-eight  acres,  crowning  a  hill  that  rises  above  the  river.  Walled  in  and 
guarded  by  eighteen  towers,  the  Kremlin  is  pierced  by  five  towered  gates  and  contains  some  of  the 
oldest  and  most  notable  buildings  in  Russia. 

Entering  the  Kremlin  by  the  Spaski  Voratu  (the  Redeemer's  Gate)  through  which  one  is  com- 
pelled to  walk  with  bowed  and  uncovered  head  we  sto])  an  instant  to  gaze  upon  the  historic  pict- 
ure that  gives  this  gate  its  name  —  the  picture  of  the  Savior  of  Smolensk,  venerated  by  all  devout 
Russians.  Once  within  the  Kremlin  Ave  note  its  famous  buildings.  Hei-e  we  see  the  Palace  of  the 
Emperors  with  its  gilded  cupola,  its  immense  halls,  one  in  white,  one  in  red  and  one  in  blue,  its 
treasury  filled  with  the  richest  stores  of  Russia's  royal  relics,  and  its  council  hall  of  the  patriarchs. 
Close  at  hand,  too,  mounted  on  a  pedestal  near  the  Kremlin  wall  is  the  great  bell  of  Moscow  — 
the  Czar  Kolokol  (Monarch  of  Bells)  sixty  feet  in  circumference,  nineteen  feet  high  and  weighing 
nearly  four  hundred  thousand  pounds.  Within  the  Kremlin,  too,  are  many  sacred  edifices  —  the 
Cathedral  of  the  Assumption,  in  which  the  Czars  are  crowned,  costly  with  gold  and  gems,  the 
Cathedral  of  the  Archangel  jSIichael  containing  the  tombs  of  three  centuries  of  Czars,  the  Cathe- 
dral of  the  Annunciation  paved  Avith  carnelian,  jasper  and  agate,  the  Church  of  the  Redeemer  with 
its  twenty  cupolas,  while  high  over  all  towers  the  great 'campanile  of  Ivan  Veliki  or  John  the  Great, 


GREAT  CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD. 


59 


rising  tliree  hundred  and  tvveiily-eii;lit  iecl  in  air  and  .surmounted  \>y  a  gilded  d(jinc'  in  wiiicli  hang 
tliirty  massive  bells,  which  aie  all  rung  at  Easter. 

Outside  the  Kremlin  the  larger  and  later  city  stretches  in  every  direction.  Here  is  tlie  "  Red 
Square,"  with  its  busy  commercial  life  and  its  fantastic  cathedral  known  as  the  Church  of  Vasili 
or  Basil  the  Blessed,  "the  most  curious  edilice  in  Moscow."  It  is  a  conglomeration  of  chapels, 
towers  and  spires,  no  two  alike,  either  in  design  or  decoration,  and  the  architect  of  which  (an 
Italian)  had  his  eyes  put  out  by  that  cheerful  monarch  Ivan  the  Terrible  in  order  tliat  he  might 
not  build  a  more  beautiful  edifice  for  any  other  monarch.  "  The  story,"  says  Dr.  Wight,  "would 
be  more  probable  if  it  ran  that  the  terrible  Czar  put  out  the  architect's  eyes  in  vengeance  for  build- 
ing such  a  monstrosity  at  all." 

Moscow  is  not  only  the  richest  of  Russian  cities  but  it  is  the  most  important  of  the  empire's 
manufacturing  cities.  The  enforced  growth  of  St.  Petersburg  hiis  not  stayed  its  prosperit}-.  It  is 
the  chief  center  of  Russian  railway  traffic,  is  the  chief  home  center  for  trade  in  grain,  hemp  and 
oils,  in  tea,  sugar,  groceries  and  all  the  produce  and  manufactures  of  middle  Russia,  and  its  popu- 
lation is  steadily  increasing. 

Moscow,  which  has  been  termed  one  of  the  most  original  of  cities,  is  both  practical  and  pic- 
turesque. Besides  its  cotton  mills  and  its  tanneries,  its  candle-works  and  its  silk  factories,  its 
carriage  shops  and  its  tobacco  factories,  it  has  academies  and  libraries,  musical  conservatoiies  and 
military  schools,  scientific,  literary  and  musical  societies,  old  bookshops,  great  commercial  houses, 
palaces,  museums,  cathedrals,  markets  and  bazaars  and  all  the  elements  of  a  prosperous  city. 

The  birthplace  of  the  Russian  poets,  Pushkin  and  Lomontoff,  Moscow  has  the  l)est  theaters  in 
Russia,  while  the  city,  gay  with  its  gilt  cupolas  and  its  sainted  towers,  half  European,  half  Asiatic 
in  its  looks  and  life,  is  au  even  more  varied  and  interesting  citj'  to  visit  than  St.  Petersburg,  four 
hundred  miles  across  the  swamps  and  forests  toward  the  frozen  north. 


THI.    kUKMi.IN. 


GLASGOW. 


G 


IN   THE  DRY   OOCKS. 


J^ASGOW  is  essentially  a  "  self-made  "  city  ;  her 
attractions  lie  more  in  the  present  than  in  the 
l^ast.'  Outside  of  her  ship-bnildinor  yards  on 
the  Clyde,  the  immense  establishment  of  John  Elder 
and  Corajjan}-  at  Govan,  the  Steel  Company  of  Scot- 
land's Works  at  Newton,  the  St.  Rollax  Chemical 
Works,  the  largest  in  the  world :  outside  of  her 
pottery  works,  which  turned  out  over  one  million 
of  clay  pipes  a  week  as  far  back  as  1852  ;  her  thirty 
thousand  power-looms  which  weave  annuall}-  three 
hundred  million  j-ai-ds  of  cotton  and  woolen  goods, 
valued  at  four  million  pounds ;  her  embroidering  of 
muslins  which  employed  over  one  hundred  and  ten 
thousand  women  scattered  all  over  Great  Britain  and 
Ireland  ;  her  turkey-red  dye-works  for  whicli  Glasgow 
has  long  been  noted ;  her  iron-woiks  and  foundries  which  yearly  turn  out  one  and  a  quarter 
million  tons  of  cast  iron  and  one  hundred  thousand  tons  of  wi-ought  iron  —  outside  of  these 
great  industries,  Glasgow  though  an  ancient  borough,  has  little  in  the  city  itself  to  interest 
the  tourist. 

Still,  it  is  an  old,  old  city.  The  Monk  Kentigern,  the  mythical  St.  iNIungo,  sat  down  on  the 
banks  of  the  Molendinar  Hum  in  560  to  teach  the  savage,  half-naked  Celts  Christianity.  On  the 
site  of  his  early  labors  stands  St.  -Mnngo's  Cathe<lral,  built  in  the  twelfth  century.  Up  a  steep 
and  rough-paved  street  you  go  to  the  Cathedral  in  the  extreme  east  of  the  city  ;  down  in  the 
damp  crypt  with  its  mossy  Norman  pillars  and  low-vaulted  ceiling,  through  the  deep  gloom  you 
peer  to  find  the  pillar  behind  which  Rob  Roy  lurked  in  that  memorable  interview.  The  crypt 
corresponds  with  the  whole  Cathedral.  "  The  ])ile  is  of  a  gloomy  and  massive  rather  than  of  an 
elegant  style  of  Gothic  architecture,  but  its  peculiar  character  is  so  strongly  preserved  and  so 
well  suited  to  the  accompaniments  that  surround  it,  that  the  impression  of  the  first  view  was 
awful  and  solemn  in  the  extreme.  Situated  in  a  populous  and  considerable  town  this  ancient  and 
massive  pile  has  the  appearance  of  the  most  sequestered  solitude." 

To  add  to  its  gloomy  character,  directly  facing  it  on  the  steep  hillside  lies  Glasgow's  Necrop- 
olis, with  its  tall  column  to  John  Knox's  memory  overtopping  all  the  other  monuments. 

After  the  tourist  has  seen  the  Cathedral  and  Broomielaw,  the  great  qua}-  one  thousand  feet 
long  on  the  north  side  of  the  Clyde  with  its  si:)len(Kd  view  of  the  harbor,  after  he  has  passed 
through  George's  Square,  where  the  Post  Office,  the  new  Municipal  Buildings,  many  hotels  and 
banks  rise  in  massive  strength,  and  has  examined  the  fourteen  statues  of  kings  and  queens,  invent- 
ors, poets  and  statesmen  which  adorn  the  finest  square  in  Glasgow,  after  he  has  stioUed  through 
broad  Buclianan  Street  and  admired  the  attractive  shops,  Sanchiehall  Street  will  lead  him  to  the 
new  West  End  of  the  city. 

Here,  for  the  first  time,  he  sees  some  beauty  in  Glasgow.  On  the  l)anks  of  the  winding  Kelvin 
lies  the  pretty  West  End  Park  with  its  Museum  ;  crowning  the  slope  of  the  liill  across  the  stream 
rises  the  magnificent  pile  of  Glasgow  University,  with  its  twenty-three  hundred  students. 
Two  million  five  hundred  thousand  dollars  will  barely  cover  the  expense  of  the  massive  early 
English  building,  with  its  handsome  Common  Hall  and  its  stately  central  Tower.  Near  the 
University  is  the  Western  Infirmary ;  and  the  beautiful  Botanic  Gardens  are  also  in  its  immedi- 
ate neighborhood. 

Beautiful  crescents  and  squares  filled  with,  stately  trees  where  the  wealthy  Glasgow  merchants 
live  adjoin  the  Park ;  here  are  light  and  air  and  freedom  ;  the  contrast  is  great.  The  contrast  is 
still  greater  if  we  take  some  of  the  numerous  excursions  into  Glasgow's  suburbs  :  no  town  in  all 
Great  Britain  can  equal  it  as  a  point  of  departure.     The   sail   up  the   Clyde  alone  is  a  j^erpetual 


rV\«    H  u.  r  >-/*^ 


62 


GREAT   CITIES    OF    THE   WORLD. 


KEW   MIXICU 


surprise  :  Arrocliar  on  Loch  Long,  Loch  Lomond  and  Katrine,  the  romantic  Locli  Awe  watched 
over  by  Ben  Cruachan  and  guarded  by  tlie  ruins  of  Kikliurn  Castle,  Oban,  Ballachulist  and  the 
wild  pass  of  Glencoe,  Staffii  and  lona,  the  wild  country  of  the  West  Hebrides,  the  land  of  William 
Black  and  the  "  Princess  of  Thule,"  can  all  be  reached  by  this  highway. 

Nearer  b}-  are  other  historic  spots :  eleven  miles  distant  lies  Hamilton  Palace,  the  magnificent  seat 
of  the  Duke  of  Hamilton ;  near  by  is  the  picturesque  ruin  of  Bothwell  Castle  ;  Langside,  where 
Queen  Mary's  forces  were  defeated  by  Regent  Moray  in  15(38  lies  near  the  south  part  of  Glasgow, 
and  Lanark,  where  the  "  Scots  wi'  Wallace  bled,"  lies  twenty-eight  miles  away  near  the  Clyde. 


LIVERPOOL. 


ROME  was  not  built  in  a  day  :  neither  was  Liverpool.  For  the  siege  of  Calais  in  1338,  the 
city,  whose  commerce  now  is  only  rivalled  by  London,  sent  but  one  small  bark  manned  by 
six  men.  In  the  time  of  good  Queen  Bess  she  had  only  twelve  ships  and  one  hundred 
and  thirty-eight  householders.  From  the  time  of  the  Restoration  her  maritime  importance  began 
—  in  1709  her  first  dock  was  built  when  she  had  but  five  thousand  inhabitants,  by  1730  that 
number  was  nearly  tripled.  In  1801  she  had  77,653  inhabitants ;  in  1881,  552,425.  To-day,  if 
we  take  in  Bootle  and  Birkenhead,  which  are  practically  suburbs  of  Liverpool,  we  have  the 
grand  total  of  over  three  quarters  of  a  million  of  inliabitants. 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD.  6:3 

And  her  commerce  has  so  tar  kcpi  [)aee  witli  her  popuialioii  lliai  lo-thiy,  llie  aiiiuial 
amount  of  dock-dues  received  exceeds  tive  millions  of  dollars,  and  thirty  tliousand  vessels  enter 
her  muddy  harbor.  London  is  her  only  rival ;  in  1880  the  exports  and  imports  of  London  footed 
up  to  l(j,4T9,108  tons,  while  Liverpool  came  in  a  close  second  witli  14,490,304  tons.  The  city  acts 
as  a  harbor  for  many  of  the  towns  of  North  England  whose  manufactures  far  exceed  her  own  ; 
Manchester,  Birmingham,  Sheffield  and  Leeds  all  pour  out  their  wealth  through  her  great  harbor. 
London  herself  sends  her  ships  in  ballast  to  Liverijool  to  be  re-loaded  there.  American  cotton 
and  American  cattle  and  American  lumber,  American  grain  and  canned  fruits,  barrels  of  apples, 
of  flour,  of  pork,  of  sugar,  of  petroleum,  and  a  thousand  other  necessities  and  luxuries  are  rapidly 
rolled  off  her  ships  to  be  replaced  by  coal  and  salt  and  iron  and  steel  and  cutlery  and  linens  and 
Manchester  cottons.  Ninety  million  pounds  sterling  represented  the  value  of  the  exports  in  1885, 
but  the  imports  exceeded  these  by  five  million  pounds.  Liverpool's  registered  tonniige,  which 
exceeds  even  that  of  London  or  Glasgow,  was  in  1886,  1,844,203  tons.  This  comprised  850 
steamers  and  lOcSf  sailing  vessels.  The  Inman,  the  Cunard,  the  White  Star,  the  National  and  the 
Guion  Lines  all  send  steamers  weekly  from  Liverpool  to  New  York,  and  the  Anchor  Line  monthly, 
while  the  American  Steamship  Company  sends  a  steamer  weekly  to  Philadelphia. 

In  view  of  this  immense  commerce  and  large  population  our  young  American  will  [)robably 
demand,  "•  What  have  these  upward  of  seven  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  '  l)ipeds  without  feathers ' 
done  t©  beautify  their  city,  or  to  further  the  cause  of  Art,  Literature,  Religion  or  Humanity  ?  " 
At  first  glance  it  would  seem  very  little.  This  "  gateway  between  the  Old  World  and  the  New  " 
seems  to  have  brushed  off  upon  itself  the  grime  from  its  thousands  of  pilgrims.  We  are  tempted 
to  sympathize  with  that  traveled  American,  wlio  declared  that  although  it  is  not  a  delightful  place 
of  residence,  it  is  one  of  the  most  convenient  and  admirable  places  in  the  world  to  get  away  from. 
Her  only  forests  are  forests  of  masts,  and  her  only  spreading  beeches  are  the  granite-fringed  docks 
of  the  Mersey. 

But  the  scene  brightens  as  the  traveller  approaches  new  Liverpool.  Broad  streets  replace  the 
narrow,  crowded  courts ;  granite  and  brick  blocks  of  business  houses  in  the  Italian  Renaissance 
style  make  an  attempt  towards  lightness  and  beauty.  All  the  public  buildings  are  new  with  the 
exception  of  the  Town  Ha^\  in  the  Corinthian  style,  surmounted  by  a  lofty  dome.  Its  severe 
architecture  and  eighteenth  jjutury  air  is  rather  unceremoniously  jostled  against  the  other  three 
sides  of  the  quadrangle  which  forms  the  Exchange.  This  airy  building  in  the  French  Renaissance 
style,  with  its  charming  arcade,  cost  the  pretty  sum  of  two  hundred  and  twenty  thousand  pounds. 
One  would  think  its  News  Room,  one  hundred  and  seventy-five  feet  long  and  fifty  feet  high,  one 
of  the  finest  rooms  in  Europe,  would  be  good  enough  for  the  "  solid  men."  But  no ;  sturdy  John 
Bull  prefers  to  transact  his  business  in  the  open  air,  and  the  "  Flags  "  of  the  quadrangle  aie  daily 
filled  with  a  crowd  of  bustling  cotton-brokers,  where  sight-seers  are  almost  as  numerous  as  in  the 
New  York  Stock  Exchange.  Another  sight  hard  by  is  Saintsbury's  Luncheon  Rooms  in  Exchange 
Street,  where  the  Bulls  and  Bears  dine  and  the  wayfaring  man  goes  to  "  see  the  animals  feed."' 

Dead  and  silent,  just  as  Trinity  churchyard  lies  in  the  midst  of  the  pulsing  heart  of  New 
York,  just  as  the  sainted  dead  sleep  in  the  old  God"s  acre  of  King's  Chapel,  Avhile  the  ciowd  of 
business  men  hurry  unheeding  b^s  so  there  lies  a  little  memento  mori  in  the  heart  of  bus}-  Liver- 
pool. Chapel  Street  leads  directly  from  the  Exchange  to  the  Docks,  passing  the  oldest  sacred 
site  in  Liverpool,  that  of  the  Church  of  St.  Nicholas,  the  patron  saint  of  mariners.  Ever  since 
the  Conquest  a  church  has  stood  here ;  in  old  da3\s  the  overhanging  grasses  on  the  banks  of  the 
Mersey  must  have  kissed  the  tombstones  of  the  silent  dead,  now  "  all  around  it  is  the  very  busiest 
bustle  of  commerce,  rumbling  wheels,  hurrying  men,  porter-shops,  everything  that  pertains  to  the 
grossest  and  most  practical  life." 

From  the  back  of  the  Town  Hall  a  broad  straight  street  leads  to  the  center  of  the  city  and 
the  finest  group  of  public  buildings  in  Liverpool.  This  Dale  Street,  together  with  Bond,  Lord 
and  Church  Streets  hard  by,  are  the  Regent  and  Oxford  Streets  of  Liverpool,  brilliant  with  bright 
shops  and  handsome  display.  Here  the  Liverpool  lady  clad  in  a  long  sealskin  cloak  in  the  middle 
of  June  is  seen  to  better  advantage  ;  she  has  driven  down  from  some  of  the  beautiful  crescents  or 
terraces  that  border  on  the  parks  in  the  suburbs  of  Liverpool,  perhaps  from  her  stately  home  neai- 
Sefton  Park  with  its  four  hundred  acres  which  is  well  worth  a  visit,  or  Prince's  Park  which  though 


64 


GREAT   CITIES    OF   THE    WORLD. 


GUKAT    \Vi:STi:i:\'    railway    station,    I.IVKlil'OOL. 


smaller,  is  quite  attractive.  Driv- 
ing do\\n  from  her  residence  in 
her  stately  English  brougham, 
the  Liverpool  lady  is  not  greeted 
b}-  the  sights  and  sounds  that 
made  the  day  hideous  near  the 
docks.  In  the  center  of  the  city, 
near  the  Lime  Street  Station, 
close  bj-  the  enormous  North- 
western Railway  Hotel,  where 
the  thirsty  American  guest  has 
to  pa}-  "  tuppence  "  for  a  glass  of 
ice-water,  all  that  newest  and 
most  imposing  of  Liverpool  ardi- 
itecture  is  gathered  together. 
Here  right  opposite  the  station 
of  the  Great  Western  Railway 
that  links  Liverpool  to  London 
stands  the  stately  St.  George's 
Hall,  it  being  the  "  crowning   architectural   feature  of    Liverpool." 

Liverpool,  although  a  commercial  city,  has  had  her  share  of  worthies  ;  in  Duke  Street  Mi-s. 
Hemans  was  born,  and  Hawthorne's  Mrs.  Blodgett  had  an  abiding  place  there.  Richard  Mather, 
the  grandfather  of  Cotton,  preached  in  the  ancient  chapel  of  Toxteth  Park.  Mrs.  01iphant,.too, 
is  a  native  of  Liverpool,  and  the  interesting  art  critic  and  biographer  of  Lorenzo  de'  Medici, 
William  Roscoe,  not  only  was  born  there  but  took  much  interest  in  the  city's  artistic  life. 

So,  after  all,  Liverpool  though  heavy  and  uninteresting  at  first  view  like  many  Britons,  is 
solid  and  warm  at  heart.  Her  work  for  the  people  has  kei)t  pace  with  her  material  prosperity  — 
her  wonderful  Mersey  Tunnel  opened  in  1886,  her  Liverpool  University  College  incorporated  in 
1881  are  some  of  her  most  recent  contributions  to  the  life,  not  only  of  the  body  but  of  the  mind. 
Although  a  commercial  city,  and  ugly  as  modern  utilitarianism  must  make  her  natural  beauties, 
she  yet  gives  a  more  pleasing  impression  than  Manchester,  or  many  other  of  England's  laige 
towns. 

Tlie  fringes  of  her  garment  are  more  beautiful  than  the  garment  itself.  Outside  of  her 
corporate  limits  are  wonders  of  landscape  beauty  and  art.  Cheshire  and  the  blue  hills  of  Wales 
are  not  far  distant.  In  the  midst  of  a  large  park  five  miles  to  the  northeast  of  Liverpool  lies  the 
old  manor-house  of  Knowsley,  the  seat  of  the  Earl  of  Derby.  Rare  and  costly  Rembrandts, 
Rubens,  Teniers  and  Claudes  adorn  its  walls.  Three  miles  in  another  direction  lies  Childwall 
Hall  the  country  seat  of  the  Marquis  of  Salisbury  with  the  ruins  of  an  old  priory  in  the  midst  of 
its  spacious  park.  Speke  Hall,  too,  is  another  old  moss-covered  manor  whose  history  dates  back 
almost  to  the  Conquest. 

Liverpool's  docks  are  world-famous.  Its  wonderful  landing-stage  consists  of  a  huge  pon- 
toon 2060  feet  long,  from  whose  southern  end  the  eight  lines  of  river  ferry-boats  ply  on 
the  broad  bosom  of  the  mirky  Mersey,  while  the  tender  of  the  Cunard  line  lands  its  passen- 
gers at  the  northern  end,  sacred  to  sea-going  steamers.  This  stage  which  was  begun  in  18o7, 
was  just  waiting  to  be  christened,  "greatly  enlarged  and  improved,"  in  1874,  by  his  Royal  High- 
ness,  the  Duke  of  Edinburgh,  when  the  whole  structure,  which  had  been  creosote-soaked  in  build- 
ing, went  up  in  flames,  and  two  million  dollars'  worth  of  [)roperty  was  totally  destroyed.  1878, 
however,  saw  it  replaced  by  even  a  finer  and  more  solid  structure. 

This  landing-stage  forms  an  integral  and  central  part  of  the  great  system  of  docks  which 
receive  the  commerce  of  the  civilized  world  and  are  the  sight  of  Liverpool.  Broad  and  massive, 
they  stretch  along  the  Liverpool  side  of  the  water-frgnt  for  nearly  seven  miles.  Across  the  river 
at  Birkenhead,  runs  another  line  of  docks  nearly  as  long,  which  have  always  proved  a  disastrous 
investment  for  Liverpool  capital. 


PEKIN. 


Tlu;  iioitlifin  ramimrts.  rcaicfl  hx  the 


Oir   of   the   midst   of    gardens  and  of  groves  rise  the  roofs  of  Pekin  —  the    Ewa?if/   Oihuf 
or  -'Imperial  City,"  —the  capital  of  the  Chinese  Empire.     Gay  witli  blue,  green  and  yel- 
low tiles  the  porcelain-covered  roofs  of  the  Imperial  City,  its  temples  and  palaces,  its  man- 
sions and  private  houses  do  but  intersperse  with  their  vivid  colors  the  living  green  out  of  which 
they  rise,  and  make  the  whole  town  —  to  one  who  looks  down  upon  it  from  the  artificial  mound 
known  as  the  Kin<j  nhan  or  "  Prospect  Mill  "  —  a  veritable  city  of  gardens. 

For  fully  five  hundred  years,  since  the  days  of  the  Emperor  Yung-lo,  has  Pekin  been  unin- 
terruptedly the   seat  of  the  Chinese  Government;    while  for  nine  centuries  at  least,  at  intervals 
more  or  less  extended,  it  has  remained  an   iiiii)erial  city. 
conqueror   Kublai    Khan 
are  still  to  be  traced  be- 
yond the  existing  walls ; 
and     here     the     greater 
Jenghiz    Khan  held    his 
court  until  forced  by  his 
interests  further  south. 

Pekin  or  Peking 
(''  the  Northern  Capi- 
tal "')  is  situated  in  the 
north  -  eastern  part  of 
China  proper  and  of  the 
province  of  Chik-li,  just 
to  the  south  of  the  fa- 
mous Great  Wall  and 
near  to  the  Yan-ho  or 
Grand  Canal,  some  fifty 
miles  to  the  westward  of 
the  Pe-chi-li  Gulf,  an  arm 
of  the  Yellow  Sea.  Its 
population  is  variously 
estim'ated  as '  from  five 
hundred  thousand  to  one 
million  —  but  all  infor- 
mation as  to  the  popula- 
tion of  Chinese  cities  is 
so  untrustworth}-  that 
the  real  figures  cannot 
be  given.  From  Pekin. 
as  the  political  center  of 
the  Empire,  four  great 
national  roads  radiate, 
north,  south  and  west, 
each  one  from  seventy 
to  eighty  feet  wide,  and 
as  masterly  in  design 
and  construction  as  were 
the  noble  state  roads  of 
ancient  Rome. 

The  city  itself  is  of 
wide   extent,  containing  feast  of  laxterxs  in  pekin. 

6.5 


66 


GREAT  CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD. 


within  the  walls  an  area  of  twenty-five  square  miles,  the  walls  themselves  measuring  thirt}"  miles 
in  circumference.  But  the  space  witliin  the  city  is  b}'  no  means  fully  occupied  by  streets  and 
dwellings,  the  greater  portion  of  the  grounds  being  devoted  to  the  extensive  surroundings  of  the 
temples,  palaces  and  great  private  residences  with  which  the  royal  city  abounds. 

The  city  consists  of  two  parts  —  the  nui-cliing  or  inner  city  and  the  tvai-eKing  or  outer  city, 
the  one  being  separated  from  the  other  by  a  wall  pierced  with  three  gates.  AVithin  the  inner 
(sometimes  known  as  the  Tartar)  city  is  the  Imperial  City,  or  residence  of  the  Court,  and  inclosed 
within  this  is  the  Tsze-kin-cK imj  or  "  Purple  Forbidden  City  "  in  which  stands  the  Emperor's  Palace. 

The  outer  (or  Chinese)  city  is  smaller  than  the  inner  city  and  contains  with  other  sacred  edi- 
fices the  temple  of  agriculture  and  the  remarkable  Temple  of  Heaven  —  the  chief  shrine  at  which 
the  Emperor  offers  sacrifices  on  special  occasions.  The  shrine  is  an  open  altar  to  Shang-ti,  the  su- 
preme deity,  and  consists  of  a  triple  circular  marble  terrace  two  hundred  and  ten  feet  wide  at  the 
base,  one  hundred  and  fifty  in  the  middle,  and  ninety  at  the  top.  In  the  same  temple  stands  the 
triple  roofed  altar  of  prayer  for  good  harAests.  one  hundred  feet  in  height.  The  tiled  roof  of 
deep  blue  glazed  porcelain  is  of  rare  beauty  and  splendor,  being  in  hue  and  brightness  no  bad  imi- 
tation of  the  sky  above. 

Pekin  is  so  strictly  an  official  city  that  its  inhabitants  are  consumei's  rather  than  producers, 
and  the  trade  c»f  the  capital  is  ver}-  small.  It  is  the  center  of  the  political,  literary  and  aristocratic 
life  of  the  kingdom ;  foreign  merchants  are  forbidden  bj-  treaty  from  tradiug  within  its  walls  and 
foreign  entrance  is  only  permitted  in  the  case  of  ambassadors  or  the  representatives  of  treaty  mv- 
tions.  Nowhere  is  Chinese  exclusiveness  more  stupidly  marked  than  in  the  sacred  confines  of  this 
"  Imperial  City." 


ST.   LOUIS. 


THE  liistory  of  St.  Louis  has 
been  comparatively  brief 
and  uneventful.  It  was 
settled  by  thirt}'  French  traders 
in  1764,  the  year  in  which  France 
ceded  Louisiana  to  Si)ain.  Spain 
did  not  take  formal  possession 
of  this  distant  trading-post  how- 
ever until  1771.  when  Don  Piedro 
Piernits  and  a  company  of  Span- 
ish soldiers  came  up  the  Missis- 
sippi. 'I  ho  installation  of  the 
fii-st  Spanish  governor  did  not 
take  place  ulitil  1780.  Through 
the  rest  of  the  eighteenth  cent- 
ury St.  Louis  continued  a  mere 
trading-post,  subject  to  the  vi- 
cissitudes of  frontier  life,  among 
whicii  an  unsuccessful  attack  of 
CUSTOM  HOUSE  AND  POST  OFFICE.  ^f^p^j^  huudred    British  und   In- 

dians in  1789  deserves  especial  mention.  When  it  passed  into  the  hands  of  the  United  States 
government  in  1804,  it  was  a  stockaded  village  containing  only  a  tritie  over  one  thousand  people, 
three  streets  and  one  hundred  and  fifty  houses. 

After  this  change  of  mastei-s,  it  grew  much  more  rapidly,  yet  as  late  as  1840  it  had  only  six- 
teen thousand  inhabitants  and  it  continued  to  preserve  its  French  characteristics  for  a  full  decade 


GREAT  CITIES   OF   THE    WORLD. 


67 


COl  UT  HOUSE,  ST.    LOUIS. 


longer,  in  spite  of  a  general 
conflagration  that  destroyed 
almost  everything  else. 
"  To  the  stranger  it  was  the 
'  Planter's  Hotel,'  and  a 
shoal  of  big  steamboats 
moored  along  an  extensive 
levee  roaring  with  river 
traffic.  Crowded,  ill-paved, 
dirty  streets,  a  few  country 
houses  on  elevated  sites,  a 
population  forced  into  a 
certain  activity  by  trade, 
but  hindered  in  municipal 
improvements  by  French 
conservatism,  and  touched 
with  the  rust  of  slavery  — 
that  was  the  St.  Louis  of 
thirty-five  years  ago." 

How  entirely  different 
is  the  St.  Louis  of  to-day ! 
a  city  by  far  the  largest 
and  most  magnificent  west 
of  the  Alississippi,  with  fulh-  half  a  million  of  people,  an  assessed  valuation  of  two 
hundred  and  seventeen  million  dollars,  twenty  miles  of  animated  river  front,  a  bridge  (one  of  the 
wonders  of  the  world)  that  cost  ten  million  dollars,  twenty-two  public  parks  and  a  projected  series 
of  boulevards  on  which  four  million  dollars  have  already  been  expended,  an  almost  perfect  system 
of  drainage,  well-paved  streets  and  good  horse  and  cable  cars,  a  model  fire  department,  a  splendid 
Merchant's  Exchange,  a  larger  proportion  of  middle-class  houses  (costing  from  ten  thousand 
dollars  to  thirty  thousand  dollars)  than  an}-  other  city  in  the  country,  and  a  bountiful  supply  of 
churches,  public  buildings  and  palatial  hotels  I  St.  Louis's  foreign-born  population  by  itself  would 
make  as  large  a  city  as  Rochester  or  Indianapolis  ;  its  Germans  equal  in  numbers  the  residents  of 
Charleston  (S.  C),  or  many  a  famous  old  city  of  the  Vaterland.  It  is  laid  out  like  Philadelphia 
and  its  streets  are  named  and  numbered  in  the  same  manner.  It  has  excellent  public,  private  and 
parochial  schools  and  is  the  seat  of  a  number  of  institutions  of  learning.  Among  the  latter  are 
Washington  University,  unsectarian,  including  an  undergraduate  department,  a  polytechnic 
school,  the  St.  Louis  Law  School,  Henry  Shaw  School  of  Botany,  St.  Louis  School  of  Fine  Arts, 
Smith  Academy  (boys)  and  Mary  Institute  (girls) ;  St.  Louis  University  under  the  control  of  the 
Jesuit  Fathers,  an  excellent  institution,  thoroughly  religious  but  in  touch  with  the  life  of  the 
times ;  Christian  Brothers  College  (also  Catholic),  the  excellent  work  of  which  has  been  de- 
servedly recognized  at  two  w-orld's  fairs ;  and  the  Concordia  Seminar,  the  principal  theological 
seminary  of  the  Old  Lutherans  of  the  West. 

It  is  a  common  saying  that  St.  Louis  is  as  invisible  as  London.  London  may  be  so  for  pru- 
dential reasons,  her  ugliness  is  notorious.  But  St.  Louis  is  not  ugly,  and  modesty  certainly  is  not 
at  the  bottom  of  it.  She  would  much  prefer  fro  be  seen  and  she  is  worth  seeing.  The  black  veil 
that  hides  her  fair  face  is  of  her  own  weaving  but  Jiot  of  her  own  wearing.  Convention  imposes 
weeds  upon  the  pretty  Avidow ;  bituminous  coal  upon  St.  Louis.  Both  would  gladly  be  rid  of 
them.  Imagine,  if  yow  can,  the  black  veil  slowly  lifting.  First  of  all  there  is  the  Mississippi 
River  and  the  bridge  that  spans  it,  the  river  half-buried  out  of  sight  by  a  picturesque  array  of 
many-decked  steamers,  ferry-boats,  tugs,  flat-boats,  diedges,  and  floating  landing  stages  ;  the  bridge 
alive  with  vehicles,  pedestrians  and  railway  trains.  Then,  the  Levee,  a  broad,  slightly-sloping  Bel- 
gian pavement  that  might  easily  be  taken  for  the  levelled  wall  of  some  old  fortification,  but  look- 
ing peaceful  enough  with  its  heaps  of  inoffensive  bags,  bales,  kegs,  barrels  and  hogsheads.  And 
just  beyond  and  above  the  T-evee.  rising  and  receding  in  three  gentle   terraces,  thousands  uj)on 


68  GREAT  CITIES   OF  THE  WORLD. 

thousarfds  oi  buildings  of  gray  limestone,  brick  and  red  sandstone,  whose  almost  monotonous  mas- 
siveness  is  pleasantly  relieved  by  numerous  green  opens  —  wherein,  if  you  could  peer,  you  might 
see  a  bit  of  tropic  or  a  genuine  English  landscape  —  and  by  here  and  there  an  aspiring  dome, 
steeple  or  shot-tower,  while  far  away  to  the  left  stands  a  veritable  forest  of  grain  elevators  and  tall 
brick  chimneys  into  which  blast-furnaces  are  roaring.  It  is  a  picture  not  easily  forgotten,  indica- 
tive of  a  prosperity  that  is  not  in  the  least  factitious,  as  a  few  statistics  will  show. 

St.  Louis  is  the  greatest  purely  inland  cotton  market  in  the  world.  It  contains  the  largest 
lager-beer  brewery  in  the  world.  This  brewery  covers  thirty  acres,  employs  one  thousand  two 
hundred  hands,  has  an  annual  pay-roll  of  half  a  million  dollars  and  a  freight  bill  of  one  million 
dollars.  Its  product  for  1887  was  456,511  barrels  necessitating  the  consumption  of  one  million 
one  hundred  thousand  bushels  of  barley,  seven  hundred  thousand  pounds  of  hops,  and  two  hun- 
dred and  fifty  million  gallons  of  water.  It  was  put  up  in  twenty-five  million  quart  bottles,  which 
were  in  turn  packed  in  four  hundred  thousand  barrels  and  boxes.  The  total  beer  product  of  the 
city  for  the  same  year  was  43,575,872  gallons,  much  of  Avliich  was  exported  to  Mexico,  South 
America,  the  West  Indies  and  Australia.  Almost  three  million  bushels  of  barley  were  consumed 
in  its  brewing.  It  is  the  first  wooden-ware  city  in  the  United  States,  and  so  far  fii-st,  that  a  single 
company  produces  more  of  this  line  of  goods  than  all  Chicago,  Cincinnati  and  New  York  com- 
bined. It  has  also  the  largest  wholesale  and  retail  hardware  concern  in  the  country  and  its  prin- 
cipal sugar  refinery  has  the  largest  building  used  for  manufacturing  purposes  in  the  West.  It  is 
the  second  railway  center  in  the  world,  Chicago  being  the  first.  Its  twenty-eight  lines  of  rail- 
roads have  an  aggregate  length  of  over  thirty  thousand  miles  and  its  ten  regular  lines  of  steam- 
boats have  access  to  sixteen  thousand  miles  of  water  ways.  By  means  of  these,  it  handled  in 
1887,  14,359,059  tons  of  freight,  shipping  to  foreign  markets  by  way  of  the  Mississippi  alone,  four 
million  bushels  of  wheat  and  7,365,000  bushels  of  corn. 

Whether  St.  Louis  will  ever  pass  lier  great  rival  Chicago,  and  whether  she  would  have  passed 
her  alread}'-  but  for  the  undeniable  check  of  the  Civil  War  are  questions  about  which  it  is  vain 
even  to  surmise,  and  they  are  of  very  little  importance  anyway.  Slie  lias  enough  to  be  proud  of, 
as  it  is  most  of  all  her  sturdy,  healthy  growth,  and  the  business  conservatism  that  has  obtained  in 
a  time  and  a  region  rife  with  wild-cat  speculation.  A  great  transportation  city,  central  to  a  larger 
food  producing  area  than  Chicago,  Cincinnati  or  New  Orleans,  and  close  by  inexhaustible  and  as 
3-et  unworked  supplies  of  coal  and  iron,  she  may  certainly  be  pardoned  her  own  stupendous  faith 
in  her  future  and  her  destiny. 


BALTIMORE. 

JOHNS  HOPKINS  UNIVERSITY  !     Druid  Hill  Park  I     canvas-back  ducks !     fair  women !  — 
this  is  Baltimore. 

Upon  the  subject  of  the  "  Baltimore  belles  "  —  the  only  women  who  had  the  power  to  make 
that  merry  old  bachelor  Washington  Irving  regret  he  was  no  longer  young — let  N.  P.  Willis  ex- 
press an  opinion.  He  is  something  of  a  connoisseur  in  this  direction  and  can  speak  with  author- 
ity :  "  I  have  seen  the  women  of  man}'  lands,"  he  says,  —  "  the  classic  beauties  of  Greece,  the 
dark-eyed  girls  of  Naples,  the  sparkling  dames  of  Paris,  the  brown-haired  girls  of  England,  and 
the  soft,  voluptuous  women  of  the  East  —  but  for  all  those  qualities  of  mind  and  body  that  make 
the  lovely  sex  irresistible,  I  have  seen  no  women  that  equal  the  fail-  daughters  of  the  Monumental 
City."  They  were  the  Howards,  the  Calverts,  the  Piuknej's,  and  they  lived  and  moved  in  an  at- 
mosphere of  elegance,  courtliness  and  refinement.  They  made  Baltimore  society  the  admiration, 
envy  or  despair  of  every  sister  city  in  America.  Customs  have  changed  in  Baltimore  since  Willis's 
time,  but  the  atmosphere  continues  one  of  courtesy  and  dignit}-  and  charm. 

Then   as  to   ducks ;  Oliver  Wendell  Holmes  knew  what  he  was  talking  about  (as  he  gen- 
erally does)  when  he  called  Baltimore  "the  gastronomic  metropolis  of  the  L'^nion  "  and  suggested 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE    WOULD. 


6£ 


putting  a  canvas-back,  tliat  "  divine  bird,"  on  the  top  of  the  Wasliington  column.  And  so,  when  it 
is  said,  that  the  very  sound  of  the  word,  Baltimore,  calls  up  a  '"dream  of  fair  women  "  and  a  vision 
of  canvas-backs,  though  it  sounds  a  little  odd,  perhaps,  still  just  that  is  meant,  let  it  not  be  doubted 
for  an  instant.  Just  that  is  meant,  but  more  is  meant  than  that.  The  words  have  a  fuller  mean- 
ing than  the  literal.  "  Fair  women  "  typifies  elegant  society  and  "  canvas-backs,"  magnificent  hos- 
pitality.    Assuredly,  to  be  preeminent  in  both  these  important  matters  is  no  mean  distinction. 

Americans  traveling  abroad  are  almost  invariably  disappointed  in  the  parks  of  the  great  cities 
of  the  old  world.  H3-de  Park,  London,  and  the  famous  "  Bois  "  of  Paris  are  quite  lacking  in  the 
endless  variety  of  picturesque  effects  that  make  our  own  parks  so  perpetually  interesting  ;  and 
of  all  these  parks  of  ours,  Druid  Hill  seems  to  be  nearest  perfection  in  this  regard.  It  is  a  tract 
of  about  seven  hundred  acres  in  the  north-western  section  of  the  city  and  was  purchased  in  ISGO 
at  a  cost  of  halt  a  million  dollars.  Its  transformation  into  a  park  was  no  very  difficult  matter, 
owing  to  the  fact  that  it  had  been  for  many  generations  the  homestead  of  an  old  Maryland  family 
whose  various  representatives  inherited  from  the  original  OAvner  a  keen  appreciation  of  its  natural 
beauties  and  a  considerable  taste  for  landscape  gardening.  Huge  forest  trees,  primeval  giants  of  hick- 
ory, oak,  chestnut  and  walnut  lend  it  an  air  of  aristocratic  age  in  marked  contrast  to  the  fledgling 
beauties  of  its  less  favored  rivals  in  other  cities.  Its  miles  of  drives  and  zigzagging  walks,  its 
lakes  and  numerous  streams,  pleasant  groves  and  impenetrable  thickets  of  laurel  and  green-brier 
combine  to  form  an  idyllic  recreation  ground.  Several  high  hills  give  splendid  prospects  —  Mary- 
land, the  city,  the  river  and  the  bay.  It  should  be  noted  that  the  money  necessary  for  keeping 
Druid  Hill  in  order  is  raised  in  a  cui-ious  way  that  may  be  copied  to  advantage  elsewhere,  perhaps. 
City  passenger  railways  are  obliged  to  pay  a  tax  of  one  cent  for  ever}-  passenger  carried  to  the 
park. 

The  opening  of  Johns  Hopkins  L'niversity  on  the  thirteenth  of  September,  1876,  marks  an 
era  in  the  development  of  higher  education  in  America.  Johns  Hopkins  was  a  Quaker,  a  shrewd 
merchant,  and  during  the  latter  years  of  his  life  the  king  of  Baltimore  finance.  He  left  seven 
millions  of  dollars  for  the  establishment  of  a  hospital  and  a  University,  stipulating  that  the  money 
should  be  equally  divided  between  the  two.  The  share  of  the  University,  three  and  a  half  millions, 
was  the  largest  single  endowment  ever  made  to  an  educational  institution  in  this  country.  But 
the  absence  of  hampering  conditions  in  the  will  was  even  more  unprecedented  than  its  munificence. 
Broadly  speaking,  everything  was  left  to  the  discretioii  of  the  trustees.  The  rare  sagacity  of  al- 
lowing this  freedom  has  been  proven  by  the  event.  The  trustees  were  picked  men  who  were  keenly 
alive  to  the  fact  that  the  time  was  ripe  for  an  entirely  new  departure  in  American  educational 
methods.  They  therefore  proposed  no  less  a  thing  than  an  American  counterpart  of  the  German 
University ;  not  a  servile  copy,  but  an  institution  whose  essential  should  be  the  German  idea  of 
combining  research  with  training,  leaving  the  details  to  adjust  themselves  to  the  peculiar  needs 
of  our  American  life.  In  pursuance  of  this  plan, 
the  University  offers  advanced  instruction  in 
ancient  and  modern  languages,  mathematics, 
physics,  biology,  chemistry,  philosophy,  history 
and  political  science  together  with  opportunities 
for  original  investigation  in  all  these  departments, 
and  the  means  of  publishing  the  results  in  regu- 
larly established  journals  similar  to  the  journals 
of  the  learned  societies  of  Europe.  About  two 
hundred  college  graduates  are  at  present  matri- 
culated there.  The  Philosophical  Faculty  will 
soon  be  supplemented  by  a  medical  faculty  whose 
work  will  be  done  in  connection  with  the  Johns 
Hopkins  Hospital.  No  faculties  of  law  or  the- 
ology are  yet  being  planned  for,  nor  are  they 
likely  to  be. 

In  the  less  than  fifteen  years  it  has  existed, 
Johns  Hopkins  Univei-sity  has  evolved  itself  into  battle  moxumext. 


70 


GREAT  CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD. 


EXCHAXGF.   PLACE   AND   C^STO^r   HOUSE. 


the  greatest  intellectual  force  in  this  country  and  has  honestly  won  wide  and  respectful  recoo-ni- 
tion  abroad.  As  far  back  as  1883,  only  six  years  after  its  opening.  President  Oilman's  annual  re- 
port evoked  the  following  from  the  leading  scientific  journal  in  England  :  "  We  should  much  like  to 
Bee  such  an  account  of  original  work  done  and  to  be  done  issuing  each  year  from  the  laboratories 
of  Oxford  and  Cambridge."  High  praise  certaiidy,  to  come  from  such  a  source  I  But  more  im- 
portant than  anything  that  can  be  embodied  in  an  annual  report,  has  been  its  raising  of  the  stand- 
ard of  education  through  the  whole  country.  There  is  not  an  American  college  of  any  scholarly 
Standing  or  pretensions  whatever,  that  has  not  directl}^  or  indirectly  felt  its  influence  powerfully 
and  yielded  to  it  in  a  degree,  finding  inspiration  thereby.  In  a  very  real  sense  Johns  Hopkins 
University  belongs  to  the  nation  as  the  Gracchi  did  to  Rome.  But  the  Gracchi  were  Cornelia's 
children  and  therefore  she  claimed  the  right  to  call  them  her  "  jewels."  So  Johns  Hopkins  is  the 
child  of  Baltimore  and  she  may  hold  it  up  proudly  to  the  public  view  as  her  jewel  —  a  jewel  of 
the  purest  lustre. 

Baltimore  has  a  history  whose  spirit  breathes  in  the  answer  of  Colonel  Howard  to  the  sugges- 
tion of  capitulation  for  property's  sake  when  the  British  threatened  her  in  1814 :  "  I  have  as  much 
property  at  stake  as  most  pei-sons  and  I  have  foui-  sons  in  the  field,  but  sooner  would  I  see  my 
pons  weltering  in  their  blood,  and  my  property  reduced  to  ashes  than  so  far  disgrace  the  country." 
She  has  ship-j^ards,  the  finest  steel-making  plants  in  the  world ;  general  manufacturing  industries 
with  an  annual  product  of  one  hundred  and  forty-five  million  dollars  ;  commerce  to  the  extent  of 
two  hundred  and  fift3--five  million  dollars.  She  has  libraries  and  institutes,  and  art  galleries  and 
endowed  lecture  courses.  She  has  all  these  and  a  score  of  other  great  and  good  and  beautiful 
things.  But  after  all,  Baltimore  can  afford  to  stake  her  reputation  on  the  four  salient  features 
first  mentioned  —  her  university,  her  park,  her  hospitality,  her  society. 


BOSTON. 


B 


SOLDIKU  S   MONIMENT. 


EAUTIFULfor  situation,  few  cities  of   the   United  States  have 

)     had  so  historic  a  past  or  possess  a  more  picturesque  present  than 

the  famous  town  of  lioston. 

The  New  Yorker  arriving  here  from  the  metropolis  is  at  first  rather 

disposed  to  sneer  at  tlie  small  size  of  this  city  of  less  than  five  hundred 

thousand  inhabitants,  for  Boston  proper  is  but  half  as  large  as  Brooklyn 

and  less  than  one  quarter  as  large  as  New  York,  but,  if  he  is  a  man  who 

values  quality  as  well  as  quantity,  he  soon  re-casts  his  estimate.     He 

sees  the  intense  personal  pride  of  the  citizens,  their  anxiety  for  good 

government,  for  fine  educational  facilities,  for  the  best  preaching,  the 

best  teaching;  and  as  he  enters  the  State  House  and  stands  beneath  the 

gilded  dome  that  crowns  Beacon  Hill,  if  he  is  a  man  of  any  elevation 

of  mind,  in  his  heart  he  re-echoes  the  prayer  of  the  chaplain,  "  God  save 

the  Commonwealth  of  Massachusetts!" 

When  in  the  center  of  the  business  part  of  the  city  he  looks  up  to 
the  Old  State  House  and  reads  beneath  the  shelter  of  the  gilded  eagle 
the  sturdy  motto  of  Massachusetts,  "  Ense  petit  jylacidam  sub  libertate 
qidetem"  he  remembers,  if  he  recalls  her  histoi'ic  past,  that  the  men  of 
Boston  (and  the  women  too)  were  ever  ready  to  fight  for  their  liberty, 
and  to  strike  for  their  altais  and  their  fires.  It  is  this  intense  individuality  that  gives  Boston  her 
charm ;  she  is  distinctively  American  and  in  this  lies  one  of  her  greatest  glories.  Boston  indeed 
is  not  London  or  Paris,  but  the  Bostonian  has  yet  much  to  be  proud  of,  more  perhaps,  all  things 
considered,  than  the  citizen  of  any  other  American  city. 

He  has  reason  to  be  proud  of  her  history ;  and  if  the  world  doesn't  know  this  by  heart  why  so 
much  the  worse  for  the  world.  Boston  has  always  stood  for  freedom  and  led  for  freedom. 
"  Boston  has  opened  and  kept  open  more  turapikes  that  lead  straight  to  free  thought,  and  free 
speech  and  free  deeds  than  any  other  city  of  live  men  or  dead  men  —  I  don't  care  how  broad  their 
streets  are,  nor  how  high  their  steeples,"  Oliver  Wendell  Holmes  makes  Little  Boston  say  in  his 
"  Professor  at  the  Breakfast  Table." 

Boston  has  reason  to  be  proud  of  her  educational  institutions.  She  has,  without  any  question, 
the  most  perfect  public  schools  of  any  city  in  the  United  States.  To-day,  hundreds  of  thousands 
of  dollars  are  annually  expended  upon  the  city 
schools  which  sixty  thousand  pupils  attend 
regularly.  It  is  true  that  the  educational  de- 
velopment of  Boston  is  but  a  type  of  the 
development  that  has  been  going  on  in  all  the 
cities  of  the  country,  but  it  is  the  proto-type. 
Boston  has  been  the  teacher  of  teaching  to  the 
whole  country,  and  Boston  educational  methods 
have  taken  hold  in  every  section  that  is  to  any 
appreciable  degree  alive  to  the  best  interests  ol 
her  children. 

If  the  sight-seei"  who  wishes  to  "  do  "  Bos- 
ton will  take  an  electric  car  at  Bowdoin  or  Park 
Squares,  half  an  hour's  rapid  ride  will  bring  him 
to  the  most  historic  college  in  the  whole  country, 
fifty  years  older  .than  William  and  Mary's,  ami 
nearly  one  hundred  years  older  than  Yale  — 
Harvard  college  with  its  2070  students  (not  in- 
cluding  the   two  hundred   and   twenty  of   the  ioxg'j^  rHAPKL. 

71 


72 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD. 


bTATI".    liiMSE. 


Summer  Schools  or  the  one  hun- 
dred and  forty  of  the  "  Harvard 
Annex  ").  With  its  elm-shaded 
College  Yard  and  its  old  build- 
ings it  is  well  worth  a  visit. 
With  its  fortA'-four  buildingrs 
directly  connected  with  college 
life.  Harvard  offers  a  rich  oppor- 
tunity not  only  to  the  student 
but  the  scientist.  The  nol)le 
bulk  of  the  Agassiz  Museum,  a 
fitting  monument  to  its  founder, 
the  Peabodj-  Museum  with  its 
addition  of  this  year,  the  01> 
servator}-  set  on  a  hill  which 
furnishes  the  time  to  Boston 
and  all  the  adjacent  suburbs, 
the  Botanical  Gardens  where 
plants  from  every  clime  flourish 
under  the  shade  of  the  noble 
pines,  the  Harvard  College  Li- 
Ijrary  where  over  five  hundred 
and  thirty  thousand  books  and 
pamphlets,  many  of  them  ex- 
tremely rare,  are  gathered  to- 
gether, the  ample  Gymnasium  —  all  these  belong  almost  as  much  to  Boston  as  to  Cambridge. 

Besides  its  Cambridge  buildings,  Harvard  College  has  a  number  of  buildings  in  Boston  and 
the  suburbs.  The  beautiful  Arnold  Arboretum  containing  the  Bussey  Institution  is  at  Forest 
Hills,  a  few  miles  out.  In  Boston  proper  is  the  Veterinary  School,  the  Dental  School  and  the 
handsome  new  building  of  the  Medical  School  on  Boylston  and  Exeter  Streets.  Not  far  distant  is 
the  "Institute  of  Technology."  the.great  technical  school  of  the  country,  the  "New  England  Con- 
servatory of  Music,"  the  largest  musical  school  in  the  world,  Boston  University  (Methodist;,  open 
to  both  sexes.  Tufts  College  (Universalist),  Boston  College  (Roman  Catholic),  the  Normal  Art 
School ;  and  for  young  ladies  only  the  "  Harvard  Annex  "  and  "  Wellesley,"  the  latter  the  largest 
of  the  young  ladies'  colleges,  situate  in  a  quiet  town  a  few  miles  fi-om  the  city.  These  all  are 
practically  a  part  of  the  city.  Then  there  is  the  Lowell  Institute,  which,  from  an  endowment  of 
two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars  has  given  free  instruction  in  drawing  to  mechanics  and 
artisans,  and  free  lectures  to  the  general  public  every  year  since  1839. 

Libraries  are  educational  institutions  just  as  truly  as  schools  and  colleges,  and  at  this  point 
no  city  in  the  United  States  would  dare  to  challenge  Boston  to  a  comparison.  Chicago  and  New 
York  both  promise  great  and  immediate  development  along  this  line,  and  Washington  has  almost 
unrivalled  possibilities,  but  up  to  the  present,  Boston  offers  opportunities  for  original  research  un- 
equalled on  this  side  the  Atlantic,  and  for  the  study  of  American  history  unequalled  in  the  world. 
Not  to  mention  any  of  the  numerous  private  and  society  collections,  any  one  of  her  three  great 
libraries,  "  The  Public,"  "  Tiie  AtheniiBum  "  and  "  Harvard  College,"  would  suffice  to  make  many 
another  city  proud.  The  largest  of  the  three,  the  Boston  Public  Library,  which  has  just  passed  its 
fii-st  half  million  of  bound  volumes,  deserves  more  than  a  passing  notice.  It  is  tlie  largest  free 
lending  library  in  the  world  and  was  the  first  to  allow  the  people  to  take  books  to  their  homes. 
The  legend  "  Free  to  All "  on  each  side  its  central  door  is  no  lie.  There  is  no  other  library  on  the 
planet  so  free  of  access  to  the  people.  If  it  ever  had  a  rival  in  this  respect  it  has  none  now  that  it 
has  been  thrown  open  Sundays  and  evenings.  On  November  28.  1888,  there  was  laid  in  Copley 
Square  the  corner-stone  of  a  new  building  which  promises  to  he  a  l>eautiful  monument  as  well  as  a 
home  for  books.  If  the  Boston  Public  Librarj-  shall  continue  its  present  attitude  toward  the  citi- 
zens of  Boston,  what  it  has  alread}-  done  for  them  is  but  the  dimmest  prophecy  of  what  it  shall  do. 


__  ( 


/ 


1?^^: 


''V  ^'^-L  ^■vV^/^-''^^-^=^^^^^^l-.--^"^^ 


f|^, 


ox    BOSTON   COMMON    AND   THE    ITl'.LIC    (iAKDEN 


74 


GREAT  CITIES   OF  THE   WORLD. 


Boston  has  other  educational  institutions  of  the  kind  which  all  cities  possess  to  a  greater  or 
l^ss  degree,  but  her  choice  Art  Museum,  Natural  History  Museum,  and  educational,  literaly  and 
art  clubs  deserve  special  mention.  These  last  are  so  numerous  that  it  is  no  wonder  a  stranger 
should  draw  the  conclusion  that  "  A  man  no  sooner  begins  to  enjoy  himself  yi  Boston  than  he 
thinks  it  necessary  to  foi-m  himself  into  a  club." 

Among  the  prominent  clubs  devoted  to  literature  and  art  may  be  mentioned  the  St.  Botolph 
with  its  handsome  building  a  stone's  throw  from  the  Public  Gardens  and  tlie  Papyrus  with  it« 
crowd  of  "  literary  fellers,"  many  of  whom  have  stood  sponsors  for  tlie  best  things  in  the  '•  Atlantic 
Monthly,"  that  ethereal  quintessence  of  Boston  "culture  "  and  thought.  Then  too,  the  purely 
artistic  clubs,  the  Art  Club  with  its  new  home  on  Dartmouth  Street  where  yearly  exhibitions  are 
given ;  the  Paint  and  Clay  Club  must  not  be  forgotten,  nor  the  "  Press  Club,"  composed  of  the  brilliant 
newspaper  men  of  the  "  Hub."  The  most  picturesque  club  building  in  Boston  in  the  midst  of 
stately  Commonwealth  Avenue  (that  now  runs  out  to  the  new  park  and  Chestnut  Hill  Reservoir) 
that  rears  its  gray  front  in  English  style  is  the  Algonquin,  a  social  club,  resembling  somewhat  the 
Union  Club  of  New  York.  Possibly,  however,  some  of  the  "young  bloods  "  of  Boston  who  swear 
by  brawn  and  physical  prowess  may  declare  that  the  new  building  of  the  Athletic  Club  surpasses 
even  the  Algonquin. 

Boston  has  reason  to  be  proud  of  her  churches  and  lier  theologians.  She  has  been  a  teacher 
of  preaching  as  well  as  of  teaching  to  the  rest  of  the  country  —  the  theological  seminary  for  the 
United  States.  Indeed,  if  a  homely,  a  very  homely  simile  may  be  allowed,  Boston  has  been  the 
kettle  in  whicli  the  theological  molasses  has  been  seetliing  and  boiling  for  the  last  two  or  three 
generations  at  least,  and  all  other  places  have  been  the  plates  on  which  it  has  been  poured  at  the 
proper  minute  and  set  away  to  cool.  As  Brooklyn  hjis  earned  the  right  to  be  denominated  the 
"  City  of  Churches,"  Boston  deserves  to  be  called  the  "  Paradise  of  Ministers." 

The  red-tiled  towers  of  Trinity  Church  form  a  land-mark  for  many  miles.  With  its  campanile- 
like tower  piercing  the  sky  the  New  Old  South  soars  loftily  near  by ;  seen  from  the  West  Boston 
bridge  with  the  picturesque  Back  Bay  in  the  foreground  and  the  piers  of  the  new  Harvard  Bridge 
stretching  away  in  curved  lines,  with  a  forest  of  spires  rising  in  the  distance  relieved  against  the 
sunset  sky,  and  the  liglits  of  early  evening  begiiniing  to  twinkle  and  glimmer  on  the  reflecting 
wave,  Boston  with  her  churches  towering  upward  has  a  suggestion  of  Venice  and  needs  only  a 
Turner  to  make  her  as  justly  famous  in  picture  as  she  has  ever  been  in  song  and  story. 


COMMONWEALTH  AVENUE. 


GREAT   CITIES    OF   THE   WORLD.  .  75 

Down-town  tlie  clmrches  if  less  picturesque  are  more  liistoric.  (Quaint  old  King's  Chapel 
with  its  hranible-tangled  graveyard  in  the  heart  of  the  busy  cit}',  and  the  Old  South  where  Frank- 
lin was  baptized  and  where  Whitefield  preached,  where  the  "  tea-party  "  was  organized  and  where 
in  1775  the  "blasted  Britishers"  stabled  their  horses  are  landmarks  that  Boston  will  never  will- 
ingly part  with.  Nor  must  the  Old  North  Church  where  Paul  Reveie's  lantern  glimmered  ])e 
forgotten. 

Boston  may  well  be  proud  of  her  suburbs  ;  what  would  she  Ije  without  them '/  —  the  rolling 
Newtons,  the  rocky  Middlesex  F'ells,  cliff-girded  Winthrop,  and  rock-girdled  Nahant  and  Nantas- 
ket,  rural  jNIilton  and  Hyde  Park  with  the  silvery-winding  Neponset  watched  over  by  the  pictur- 
esque heights  of  the  Blue  Hills,  not  to  mention  Chestnut  Hill  and  Jamaica  Plain,  Longwood  and 
Brookline,  the  homes  of  her  merchant  princes.  The  suburbs  of  Boston  are  filled  with  historic 
spots,  where  beauty  and  the  Muse  of  History  stand  hand  in  hand.  On  the  heights  of  Charlestown 
stands  the  shaft  where  our  forefathers  bravely  fell ;  on  Prospect  Hill  in  Someiville  was  the  first 
patriot  camp  and  there  -was  first  flung  to  the  breeze  the  American  flag  :  on  the  road  between 
Cambridge  and  Arlington,  watched  over  I)}-  the  picturesque  Arlington  Heights,  stand  granite 
blocks  of  great  stone  marking  the  spots  where  the  "  men  of  Menotoniy  "  on  the  day  of  the 
battle  of  Lexington  resisted  their  oppressors  ;  in  Cambridge  itself  stands  the  historic  Elm  under 
which  Washington  took  command  of  the  American  army  —  scarcely  a  stone's  throw  further  rises 
on  a  terrace  the  old  colonial  mansion  once  Washington's  headquarters,  later,  the  home  of  Long- 
fellow. A  little  farther,  near  tlie  road  to  Mt.  Auburn,  where  sleep  so  many  of  the  "storied 
dead,"  fly  the  Herons  of  Elmwood  over  the  home  of  James  Russell  Lowell.  Or,  if  we  seek  for 
earlier  history  still,  on  the  banks  of  the  Charles  where  the  rapid  Stony  Brook  rushes  in,  stands 
the  round  stone  tower  of  Norumbega  to  mark  the  spot  where,  so  it  is  said,  the  Norsemen  first 
landed,  nine  hundred  years  ago. 

Boston's  manufacturing  interests  are  also  important.  Her  boot  and  shoe,  rubber  and  elastic, 
clothing,  furniture  and  machine  shops,  her  iron  and  steel  foundries,  sugar  refineries  and  printing 
and  publishing  houses  all  do  an  annual  business  of  over  two  millions,  two  of  them  going  as  high 
as  sixteen  million  dollars.  She  falls  behind  that  which  is  her  due  place  as  a  manufacturing 
center,  in  comparison  with  other  cities,  because  her  capital  is  invested  more  largely  in  suburban 
towns  than  that  of  any  other  city. 

The  Puritan  of  1630,  the  Bostonian  of  1850,  should  they  return  in  the  flesh,  would  be  dazed 
indeed.  Within  the  last  quarter  of  a  century  Roxbury,  Dorchester,  Charlestown,  West  Roxbury 
and  Brighton  have  been  annexed,  the  business  district  has  been  much  changed  by  the  new  and 
magnificent  merchant  palaces  that  take  the  place  of  the  blocks  swept  away  l)y  the  dreadful  fiie  of 
1871.  Westerly  from  the  Common  are  streets  where  the  water  of  the  bay  grew  molten  in  the  sun- 
sets of  Boston's  earlier  days.  This  is  New  Boston  ;  a  New  Boston  of  brown-stone  and  Japanese 
ivy  fronts,  of  wide  avenues  statued  and  gardened. 

The  "  Back  Bay "  section  is  a  miracle  of  change.  Commonwealth  Avenue  is  fast  becoming 
one  of  the -most  beautiful  boulevards  in  the  countrj^  and  Copley  Square,  when  the  new  Library 
building  shall  be  complete,  will  have  few  rivals.  Besides,  the  contemplated  system  of  parks  will 
work  a  complete  transformation.  For  two  miles  and  three  quarters  of  its  length  the  Chai-les  River 
embankment  is  to  be  converted  into  a  park.  This  will  connect  with  the  Back  Bay  Park  (now 
partially  laid  out),  from  Avhich  in  turn  the  Muddy  River  Basin  improvement  will  extend  to 
Jamaica  Pond  and  the  Arnold  Arboretum.  A  jiark  road  eight  miles  long  will  run  through  the 
whole  series.  When  it  is  lemembered  that  Boston  has  already  the  beautiful  and  liistoric 
Common  and  the  Public  Garden,  that  Franklin  Park  is  growing  more  picturesque  ever}-  season, 
that  Brighton  and  East  Boston  and  South  Boston  Avill  soon  have  attractive  pleasure  grounds  a 
slight  exertion  of  the  imagination  will  serve  to  picture  New  Boston  as  a  wonderfully  beautiful  city. 
Boston's  natural  advantages  are  superb  —  a  land-locked  harbor  unequalled  in  picturesqueness,  a 
rolling  country  of  downs  and  fells,  of  rocky  heights  and  fertile  meadows,  a  picturesque  country 
on  every  hand  readily  accessible  by  swift  trains  and  electi-ic  cars,  so  that  Boston  really  is  a  "hid)." 

If  the  Boston  of  the  future  like  the  Boston  of  the  past  tips  her  lance  A\'ith  truth  and  burnishes 
her  shield  with  independence,  little  in  stature  though  she  be.  she  will  be  a  power  in  the  community, 
for  the  spirit  which  informs  the  body  will  give  her  beauty  and  strength. 


BUENOS   AYRES. 


THE  Chicago  of  South  America  I  Such  is  the  appellation  given  to  Buenos  Ayres.  "When 
one,"  says  Mr.  Ford,  the  latest  of  American  observers  about  the  gate\va3-s  of  the  Plate, 
"goes  to  the  Boca  and  sees  the  shipping  jammed  and  wedged  into  tlie  Riachuelo,  he  is 
reminded  of  the  Chicago  River.  When  he  returns  by  train  along  the  water's  edge  and  goes  out  to 
Belgrano,  passing  two  riverside  parks,  he  recalls  again  the  metropolis  of  the  West,  with  its  rail- 
ways, pleasure-grounds  and  palatial  residences  along  the  lake  shore.  The  sun  rises  over  a  river  so 
broad  that  it  is  like  Lake  Michigan.  From  that  river  base  the  city  has  shot  out  north,  south  and 
west  over  a  broad  and  level  plain,  doubling  its  population  within  a  decade,  and  developing  an 
immense  volume  of  business.  It  is  the  most  important  railway  center  of  South  America.  It 
is  the  outlet  for  the  agricultural  produce  of  continental  reaches  of  wheat  belt.  It  is  the 
chief  saladero,  or  slaughter-house,  for  the  stock-raising  pampas.  It  commands  a  fluvial  system 
exceeding  in  volume  the  watershed  of  the  Mississippi.  Its  commerce  has  expanded  into  enormous 
compass.  The  city  is  fairly  pulsating  with  vitality,  enterprise  and  ambition.  It  has  absolute 
faith  in  its  manifest  destiny  as  one  of  the  chief  commercial  centers  of  the  veorld.  Not  to  put  too 
fine  a  point  on  it,  Buenos  Ayres  is  not  particularly  modest.  In  all  these  respects,  as  well  as  in 
intensity  of  local  pride,  it  strongly  resembles  the  Chicago  of  the  North." 

The  progress  of  Buenos  Ayres  is  without  precedent  or  parallel  in  the  history  of  South 
America.  The  population  was  78,500  in  1857  ;  177,800  in  1869  :  295,000  in  1882,  and  in  1890,  it 
is  at  least  530,000.  Rio  de  Janeiro  has  been  distanced  in  the  lace  for  supremacy,  and  at  the  end 
of  another  ten  or  twenty  years  Buenos  Ayres  may  be  close  behind  Philadelphia  and  Chicago. 
The  development  of  the  commerce  of  the  city  has  been  as  remarkable  as  its  growth  in  population. 
In  1850  the  import  and  export  trade  of  the  country,  which  mainly  centers  in  this  port,  amounted 
to  821,770.000  ;  in  187(5  the  aggregate  was  881,450,000 ;  in  1890  it  is  now  8228,524,013.  The 
house  valuations  increased  from  $37,000,000  in  1857  to  8300,000,000  in  1890  ;  and  in  wealth  and 
resources  the  city  has  rapidly  risen  from  an  inferior  position  to  the  foremost  place  in  South 
America.  The  Rio  de  la  Plata  (or  Plate  River)  is  more  a  bay  than  a  river,  being  one  liundred 
miles  wide  at  its  mouth,  and  Buenos  Ayres,  the  capital  of  the  Argentine  Republic  is  one  hundred 
and  eisfhtv  miles  from  the  sea. 

Buenos  Ayres  is  bus}',  bustling,  growing  and  wide-awake.  But  it  is  neither  picturesque  nor 
imposing.  "  The  city,"  says  Mr.  Ford,  "  is  neither  as  well-built,  nor  as  favorably  situated,  nor  as 
attractive  to  the  eye  as  Montevideo,  although  it  is  more  than  twice  as  large.  The  picturesque 
attractions  of  Bahia  and  the  majestic  mountain  scenery  of  Rio  are  utterly  lacking  here.  Thei-e 
are  fourteen  thousand  acres  —  the  Buenos  Ayres  boomers  say  twenty  thousand  —  of  regularly 
lined  streets  on  a  low-lj-ing  plain  fronting  on  a  wide  river.  The  streets  are  uniform  in  width  and 
the  shops  or  houses  on  one  are  like  the  shops  and  houses  on  the  others.  There  are  a  dozen  minia- 
ture plazas  or  squares  which  fail  to  break  the  monotonous  effect  of  the  unending  vistas  of  shop- 
roofs  and  street  pavements.  The  suburbs  are  inferior  in  natural  loveliness  to  the  Paso  Molino  of 
Montevideo.  There  is  a  suburban  park  at  Palermo  embracing  eight  hundred  and  forty  acres,  but 
it  is  too  remote  to  be  used  as  a  place  of  popular  recreation.  The  Jardin  de  Horida  is  frequented 
in  the  evenings,  but  it  is  a  dull  place  in  comparison  with  the  Passeio  Publico  or  the  Praca  in  Rio. 
The  new  orardens  at  the  Recoleta  are  not  without  attractions,  and  there  are  fine  river  vistas  from 
Belgrano  and  other  handsome  residence  quarters  ;  but  the  city  as  a  whole  is  disappointing  to  any 
one  who  comes  from  Rio  or  Montevideo.  As  a  center  of  business  activity  it  is  unrivalled  in 
South  America,  but  bustle  is  not  beauty,  and  trade  statistics  have  no  power  to  refresh  the  eye." 

With  the  exception  of  its  churches,  Buenos  Ayres  has  few  imp6sing  buildings.  The  center  of 
the  town,  according  to  Mr.  Ford,  "  is  the  Plaza  de  Mayo,  where  stand  the  Government  House,  the 
Custom  House,  the  Halls  of  Congress,  the  Cabildo,  the  Police  Headquarters,  the  Cathedral,  the 
Bishop's  Palace  and  the  new  National  Bank  building.  The  square  covers  eight  acres,  is  expen- 
sively paved,  is  fringed  with  a  coarse  species  of  palms  and  has  two  patriotic  monuments.  With 
one  exception,  the  Cathedral,  the  buildings  fronting  on  this  square  are  not  imposing.     The  Con- 

7G 


GREAT  CITIES   OF  THE   WORLD. 


77 


gress  Hall,  or  Capitol,  is  a  commonplace  building,  ujuvoithy  of  the  pretensions  of  the  Argenti)ie 
Republic.  The  Government  House  occupies  the  site  of  the  fort  erected  by  the  Spanish  piuJieers, 
and  commands  a  direct  view  of  the  river.  The  Exchange  and  the  banks  are  pretentious  structures. 
Some  of  the  banks  are  really  magnilicent  buildings,  and  here  and  there  are  to  lie  seen  ornate 
business  blocks  ;  but  for  a  city  containing  a  population  of  over  live  hundred  thousand,  Huenos 
Ayres  makes  a  very  poor  display  of  arcliitecture." 

The  Argentine  Republic  has  been  well  called  the  South  American  Yankee-land.  The  result 
of  the  supreme  energy  and  vitality  as  disi)la3'ed  in  and  about  Buenos  Ayres  is  proof  of  this.  The 
new  harbor  —  built  where  one  scarce  existed  before,  is  a  magniticent  work  of  engineering,  boldly 
planned  and  laboriously  executed.  The  cost  is  fully  twenty  millions  of  dollars  but  il  has  given 
what  no  other  South  American  city  has  —  wharfage. 


BRUSSELS. 


BRIGHT,  lively,  sparkling,  a  Paris  in  miniature,  with  few  of  the  drawbacks  which  come  from 
residence  in  that  crowded  city,  the  Capital  of  Belgium  and  the  residence  of  the  roj-al  fam- 
ily, is  one  of  the  pleasantest  cities  that  the  European  tourist  is  likely  to  encounter.     Other 
people  beside  tourists  appreciate  this  fact,  for  the  population  has  greatly  increased  within  the  last 
decade.     In  1878  it  was  only  167,000  souls,  or  including  its  nine  suburbs,  390,700.     To-day,  in- 
cluding these  suburbs  it  is  estimated  at  458,939. 

Brussels,  as  has  been  said,  resembles  a  miniature  Paris.  It  lies  on  both  sides  of  the  Senne 
instead  of  the  Seine,  and  is  encircled  by  the 
Boulevards  de  Waterloo,  d'Anvers,  Barth^lenut 
and  other  broad,  beautifully  paved  and  shaded 
avenues  lined  with  quadruple  rows  of  trees, 
whose  foliage  casts  grateful  shadows  over  the 
crowd  of  tinelj'-dressed  women  and  handsome 
men,  stately  carriages  and  equestrians  who  take 
their  pleasure,  like  Frenchmen,  gaily.  On  the 
tine  summer  evenings  they  crowd  the  parks  and 
boulevards  which  lie  on  top  of  the  old  ramparts, 
which  Avere  leveled  at  the  beginning  of  this  cent- 
ury shortly  after  the  battle  of  Waterloo. 

Not  only  the  boulevards  themselves  with 
their  imposing  public  buildings  with  stately 
facades  which  flank  the  broad  avenues,  not  only 
the  Palais  du  Roi  which  lies  opposite  the  beau- 
tiful park  that  ^Maria  Theresa  laid  out,  not 
only  the  countless  hotels,  theaters,  bright  shop- 
windows  and  general  out-of-door  life  and  gayety 
remind  the  tourist  of  the  Paradise  of  good 
Americans,  but  even  the  language  itself,  particu- 
larly in  the  north  and  east  parts  of  the  city,  is 
Parisian  French,  although  the  lower  chisses  speak 
Flemish  and  Walloon. 

In  the  magniticence  of  its  rich  public  build- 
ings with  their  delicate  aspiring  Gothic  architec- 
ture, their  countless  arrowy  spires,  sculptured 
facades,  and  rich  stained  glass,  Brussels  resembles 


CATHEDRAI,    OF    STE.    GlDflJ 


78  GREAT  CITIES   OF  THE   WORLD. 

quaint  old  Rouen  rather  than  Paris.  The  splendid  Gothic  Cathedral  of  Ste.  Gudule  and  St.  Michel 
which  rises  on  an  abrupt  slope  overlooking  the  lower  town  rivals  St.  Ouen  and  St.  ]\laclon.  With 
its  niched,  sculptured  fa9ade,  its  stained  glass  windows,  which  tell  almost  the  whole  history  of 
Brussels  and  the  Church,  its  long-arched  aisles,  and  wonderfully  decorated  chapels,  in  which  sleep 
monarchs  of  France  and  Burgundy  under  stately  cenotaphs  surrounded  by  rich  carvings  of  Flena- 
ish  oak  —  this  is  the  glory  of  Brussel's  old  town.  It  was  begun  hi  1220,  on  the  site  of  an  old 
church  which  received  Sainte  Gudule's  "  reliques  "  in  1047. 

Scarcely  less  imposing  is  the  superb  Hotel  de  ViUe  where,  in  1555,  the  abdication  of  the 
world-renowned  monarch,  Charles  V.  took  place.  Towering  high  above  the  stately  mansions  for- 
merly occupied  by  the  "  blue-blood  "  of  Brabant,  its  splendid  tower  three  hundred  and  seventy 
feet  high  pierces  the  brilliant  sky  like  an  arrow  ;  poised  in  flight  over  its  openwork  spire  the  gilded 
glittering  figure  of  the  Archangel  Michael  sixteen  feet  high  serves  as  protector;  but,  devout  as 
were  the  good  Roman  Catholics  of  Brussels,  both  past  and  present,  theii"  militant  saint  could  not 
ward  off  the  lightning  which  damaged  the  Gothic  spire  slightly  in  1863. 

Scarcely  less  wonderful  in  its  artistic  spirit  is  the  needle-architecture  of  Brussels  ;  the  deli- 
cate spires  and  points  of  Brussels  lace  with  their  exquisite  design  rival  the  towers  of  Ste.  Gudule. 

In  the  manufacture  of  this  marvel  of  Flemish  handiwork  one  hundred  and  thirty  thousand 
women  are  employed  in  Belgium,  and  the  value  of  their  work  is  estimated  at  about  fifty  million 
francs  annually.  Formerly  even  the  net  which  held  the  delicate  flowers  was  made  by  hand ;  now 
they  are  sewed  on  tulle,  but  the  flowers  themselves  are  laboriously  woven  either  mth  the  needle 
or  the  bobbin.  Brussels  lace  is  the  finest  lace  in  the  world ;  a  piece  of  old  Brussels  point  only  an 
incli  wide  contains  twenty-two  thousand  meshes  in  a  yard,  every  one  of  which  was  laboriously 
made  by  hand. 

This  lace  was  the  heritage  of  royalty.  Counts  of  Haiijault  and  Li^ge,  Dukes  and  Duchesses 
of  Brabant  and  Burgundy  were  proud  to  number  it  among  their  heirlooms.  Vandyck,  the  pupil 
of  Rubens  and  the  Court-Painter  of  the  crowned  heads  of  Europe,  was  passionately  fond  of  tlris 
lace  and  immortalized  many  a  piece  of  rich  Brussels  point  on  his  canvas.  In  the  Music  de  Pein- 
tnre,  the  finest  collection  of  art  in  Belgium,  with  its  Rubens  Room,  its  Van  Eycks,  its  works  by 
Quinten  Mat3-s  (the  blacksmith  painter)  and  many  other  noted  examples  of  the  early  Flemish 
school,  there  are  some  fine  Vandycks  and  Rembrandts,  although  some  finer  examples  are  found 
in  the  Palace  of  the  Due  d'Arenberg,  formerly  the  palace  of  the  unfortunate  Count  Egmont,  the 
victim  of  Alva's  hate. 

Here  in  the  old  market-plane  of  Brussels,  in  front  of  the  Hotel  de  Ville,  twenty-five  of  the 
nol)lest  high-born  heroes  of  the  Netherlands  were  beheaded.  The  window  is  still  pointed  out  from 
which  the  Duke  of  Alva  laughingly  leaned  to  see  his  victims"  heads  roll  on  the  ground. 

So,  with  all  its  gay  present,  Brussels  has  had  a  sad  and  gloomy  past,  with  fierce  and  bloody 
struggles  for  liberty.  Her  strong  Roman  Catholic  religious  zeal,  which  fought  the  Reformation 
aided  by  the  Spanish  government  niateriall}'  contributed  to  the  development  of  art.  When  the 
last  religious  census  was  taken,  in  1878,  out  of  a  total  Belgian  population  of  5,476,888  (in  tliis 
densely  peopled  little  kingdom,  which  is  only  one  hundred  and  seventy-nine  miles  long  and  one 
hundred  and  ten  wide),  there  were  but  fifteen  thousand  Protestants  and  three  thousand  Jews. 
She  has  fought  hard  for  her  faith  and  her  freedom;  she  has  known  how  to  be  gay  in  the  midst  ui 
bloodshed  and  tumult.  The  house  of  the  famous  Duchess  of  Richmond's  ball  is  still  pointed  out 
where 

"  There  was  a.  soiiiul  of  revelr.v  In-  iiiirlit. 
And  Beljriunrs  capital  liad  gathered  there 
Her  Beauty  and  lier  Chivalry,  and  bright 

The  lamps  shone  o'er  fair  woiueu  and  brave  men; 
A  thousand  hearts  beat  happily." 

Only  nine  miles  distant  is  the  Field  of  Waterloo,  from  whence  the  "  cannon's  opening  roar  " 
broke  on  the  guy  life  of  the  brilliant  capital.  To-day  that  field  with  its  ghastly  memories  stands 
like  a  skeleton  at  the  feast  and  is  visited  by  thousands ;  while  the  gay  life  of  Brussels  relieved 
.against  this  sombre  background  stands  out  more  brilliantly. 


TOURISTS   ABROAD. 


NAPLES. 


S' 


EE  Naples  and  die  I  "  the  Italian  saying  runs  ;  but 
not  all  travelers  agree  to  the  Italian  credo^  though 
none  may  dissent  from  the  city's  claim  to  beauty  if 
situation.  Naples  disputes  with  Constantinople  the  claim 
of  occupying  the  most  beautiful  site  in  Europe.  "  To  see 
Naples  as  we  saw  it  in  the  early  dawn  from  far  up  tlie 
side  of  Vesuvius,"  says  Mark  f  ^vain,  ••  is  to  see  a  picture 
of  wonderful  beauty.  At  that  distance  its  dingy  balconies 
looked  white  —  and  so,  rank  on  rank  of  balconies,  win- 
dows and  roofs,  they  piled  themselves  up  from  the  blue 
ocean  till  the  colossal  castle  of  St.  Elmo  topped  the  grand 
white  pyramid  and  gave  the  picture  symmetry,  emphasis 
and  completeness." 

Naples  is,  for  its  size,  the  most  densely-peopled  city 
in  Europe.  Within  a  circumference  of  barely  eighteen 
miles,  six  liundred  thousand  people  dwell.  The  result  is 
an  over-crowded  city,  with  narrow  streets  and  high  houses 
—  and  people  everywhere.  "  Naples,"  says  Mr.  Stockton, 
"•is  one  of  the  noisiest,  liveliest  cities  in  the  world.  The 
people  are  very  fond  of  the  open  air  and  they  are  in  the 
streets  all  day  and  nearly  all  night.  The  shoemaker 
brinfjs  his  bench  out  on  the  sidewalk  and  sits  there  mer- 
rily  mending  his  shoes.  Women  come  out  in  front  of 
their  houses  and  sew,  take  care  of  theii-  babies  and  often 
make  their  bread  and  cook  tlieir  dinners  in  the  open  street. 
In  the  streets  all  sorts  and  conditions  of  men,  women  and 
children  work,  play,  buy,  sell,  walk,  talk,  sing  or  cr}- ;  here 
the  cai-riages  are  driven  furiously  up  and  down,  the  drivers 
cracking  theii-  whips  and  shouting :  here  move  about  the 
little  donkeys,  with  piles  of  vegetables  or  freshly  cut  grass 
\\\)oi\  their  backs,  so  that  nothing  but  their  heads  and  feet 
are  seen  ;  and  here  are  to  be  found  noise  enough  and  dirt 
enough  to  make  some  people  very  soon  satisfied  with  their 
walk  through  the  streets  of  Naples." 
These  streets  of  Naples,  paved  with  volcanic  basalt,  are  very  narrow,  very  noisy  and  very 
slippery.  "  They  are  generally  about  wide  enough  for  one  wagon,"  says  Mark  Twain,  "  and  how 
they  do  swarm  with  people  I  It  is  Broadway  repeated  in  every  street,  in  every  court,  in  every 
alley !  There  are  seldom  any  sidewalks,  and  when  there  are,  they  are  not  wide  enough  to  pass  a 
person  on  without  caroming  on  him.  So  everybody  walks  in  tlie  streets  —  and  wliere  the  street  is 
wide  enough  carriages  are  forever  dashing  along."  Not  all  the  streets,  however,  are  Jiarrow.  The 
Via  di  ^oma,  or  the  Toledo,  as  it  is  more  frequently  called,  is  broad,  straight,  and  well-paved,  and 
lined  with  fine  buildings  :  the  Riviere  di  Chiaja  is  a  fine,  broad  street  in  the  city's  fashionable  quar- 
ter ;  and  along  the  Public  Gardens  of  the  Villa  Nazionale  runs  the  chief  promenade  of  the  city. 
The  houses  of  Naples  are  large,  towering  and  solidly  constructed.  "  I  honestly  believe,"  says 
Mark  Twain,  "  a  good  majority  T)f  them  are  a  hundred  feet  high !  and  the  solid  brick  walls  are 
seven  feet  through.  You  go  up  nine  flights  of  stairs  before  you  get  to  the  first  floor ;  —  no,  not 
nine,  but  there  or  thereabouts  I "'  In  reality  they  are  five  or  six  story  houses,  covered  with  stucco 
and  adorned  with  large  balconies  ;  while  in  many  cases  the  roof  is  a  broad  flower  garden. 

The  Castle  of  St.  Elmo,  which  commands  the  city  from  the  hill  above,  is  a  fortress  of  massive 
construction,  and  is  four  centuries  old.     The  churches  of  the  city  are  remarkable  lather  for  richness 

80 


A   GIRL   OK   NAPLES. 


GREAT   (  rriKS    OF    Till-:    WOKI.D.  81 

of  internal  decoration  than  i'or  archilectiiral  beauty,  and  the  I'oreniost  l)iul(ling  of  Naples  in  inter- 
est is,  undoubtedly,  its  famous  Museum  — the  Mimeo  Burhonivo  —  whieh  eontains  valuable  sculp- 
tures, works  of  art  and  rare  and  euiious  thiny;s  —  ehief  amonj^-  whieh  are  the  famous  Farnese  col- 
lection and  the  ancient  "finds  "  of  Pompeii  and  Ihfrciilaua'um. 

Naples  is  the  second  port  of  Italy.  Its  principal  manufactures  are  coral  goods,  kid  gloves 
and  macaroni.  Its  chief  attraction  to  visitors  is  its  remarkable  and  historic  suburbs  —  Pompeii 
and  IlerculantCum,  Vesuvius,  Sorrento,  Capri  with  its  lilue  Grotto,  liaite,  Puteoli,  the  Luciine 
l/.ike  and  the  marvellously  beautiful  Hay  of  Naples,  where,  as  Dr.  Wight  says,  "beautiful  land 
and  lovely  sea  meet  in  sweet,  passionate  embrace." 

In  no  other  city  of  the  world,  it  is  asserted,  do  opulence  and  poverty,  magnificence  and  misery 
so  jostle  one  another :  "  Naked  boys  of  nine  years  and  the  fancy  dressed  cliildien  of  luxury  ; 
shreds  and  tatters  and  brilliant  uniforms  ;  jackass-carts  and  state-carriagefe  ;  l)eggars,  princes  and 
bishops  jostle  each  other  on  every  street."  So  Mark  Twain  tells  us,  and  ftiither  he  reports  :  "  At 
six  o'clock  every  evening  all  Naples  turns  out  to  drive  on  the  Riviere  di  Chiaja  (whatever  that 
may  be)  and  for  two  hours  one  may  stand  there  and  see  the  motliest  and  worst  mixed  procession 
go  by  that  ever  eyes  beheld.  Princes  (there  are  moie  princes  than  policemen  in  Naples)  who  live 
up  seven  flights  of  stairs  and  don't  own  any  principalities  will  keep  a  carriage  and  go  hungr}'' ; 
and  clerks,  mechanics  and  milliners  will  go  without  their  dinneis  and  squander  the  money  on  a 
hack-ride  in  the  Chiaja ;  the  rag-tag  and  rubbish  of  the  city  stack  themselves  up,  to  the  number  of 
twenty  or  thirty,  on  a  rickety  little  go-cart  hauled  by  a  donkey  not  bigger  than  a  cut,  and  they 
drive  in  the  Chiaja ;  dukes  and  bankers  in  sumptuous  carriages  and  with  gorgeous  drivers  and 
footmen  turn  out,  also,  and  so  the  furious  procession  goes.  For  two  hours  rank  and  wealth,  and 
obsctirity  and  poverty  clatter  along  side  by  side  in  the  wild  procession  and  then  go  home,  serene, 
happy  and  covered  with  glory  !  " 

To-day  progress  and  the  steam-engine  —  Kossuth's  "  democrat  " —  are  making  even  Naples 
more  manly  if  less  picturesque.  "  The  Southern  Italians,"  says  Dr.  Wight,  "  are  beginning  to 
learn  how  to  toil  and  consequently  the  dolce  far  niente  is  losing  its  charms.  Even  the  lazzaroni 
are  rubbing  their  eyes  and  looking  out  upon  a  new  dawn.  Beggars  still  swarm  the  streets  and 
highways  but  they  are  growing  less  importunate,  and  signs  are  not  wanting  that  the  i-ace  may  in 
time  become  extinct.  As  I  entered  the  Bay  of  Naples  I  met  one  of  the  great  ironclads  with  its 
100-ton  guns  coming  out.  This  omen  was  good  and  significant  of  many  things.  At  Reggio  and 
Messina  the  screaming  of  the  locomotive  whistles  announced  the  transition  from  a  dead  and  bar- 
barous past  to  the  living  present  and  the  enlightened  future." 


BUDAPEST. 

PERCHED  on  its  porphyry  rock  high  above  the  "beautiful  blue  Danube"  the  fortress  of  old 
Buda  looks  down  upon  the  great  city  —  its  twin  and  larger  half,  that  stretches  away  from 
its  rocky  acropolis,  and  lining  both  sides  of  the  noble  river  makes  into  a  joint  municipality 
—  the  double  city  of  Budapest. 

It  is  the  New  York-Brooklyn  of  Europe.  Buda  on  the  right  bank  of  the  Danube  and  Pesth 
on  the  left,  connected  by  a  beautiful  suspension  bridge  and  filled  with  all  the  life  and  labor  of  a 
great  city,  were  united  as  one  municipality  in  1873  and  oflficially  styled  Budapest.  This  double 
city  is  now  the  capital  of  Hungary.  It  is  the  second  residence  of  the  Emperor  of  Austria  and  is 
the  seat  of  the  Hungarian  ministry,  diet,  supreme  court  and  Hungarian  militarj-  forces. 

"  As  Paris  is  sometimes  said  to  be  France,  so  may  Pesth,"  says  Prof.  Muirhead,  "  with  almost 
greater  truth  be  said  to  be  Hungary.  Its  composite  population  is  a  faithful  reflection  of  the  heter- 
ogeneous elements  in  the  empire  of  the  Hapsburgs,  and  the  trade  and  industrj-  of  Hungary  are 
centralized  at  Pesth  in  a  way  that  can  scarcely  be  affirmed  of  any  other  European  capital." 


82 


GREAT   CITIES    OF   THE   WORLD. 


Budapest  stands  second  only  io  Vienna  in  the  Austrian-Hungary  land  in  commercial  impor- 
tance. It  has  an  ex'tensive  trade  and  growing  manufactures  and  is  a  large  handler  and  consumer 
of  the  grain  and  wine  of  the  surrounding  country. 

It  is  one  of  the  most  notable  of  European  cities  in  picturesqueness  of  situation.  Modern 
Pesth  with  its  multitude  of  low-roofed  buildings  lills  and  overruns  the  sand}-  plain  while  beyond 
the  bridge  ancient  Buda,  fortress-crowned  and  backed  by  vine-clad  mountains,  is  the  counterpart 
of  a  jjicture  that  long  remains  an  agreeable  memoiy  with  tourist  and  visitor,  and  a  perennial  boast 
to  the  loyal  inhabitants  of  the  double  city.  Three  bridges  now  span  the  Danube  ;  the  city  is 
divided  into  ten  municipal  districts  —  three  belonging  to  Buda  and  seven  to  Pesth  — ^  and  the  joint 
population  exceeds  four  hundred  thousand. 

The  principal  streets  are  broad  boulevards,  tree-shaded  and  asphalt  paved  :  the  houses  for  the 
most  part  are  low  and  unpretentious,  although  some  are  notable  exceptions  —  one  especially,  the 
"New  Building,"  in  the  Leopold  Stadt  covering  ;ts  much  ground  as  a  city  square  —  while  on  the 
Danube  frontage  there  stretches  for  two  and  a  half  miles  from  the  Margarethenbriicke  to  the  cus- 
tom house  an  unbroken  line  of  imposing  white  buildings. 

Wlrile  loyally  Austrian  Budapest  is  even  more  Magyar  —  loyally  Hungarian.  Its  people  are 
good-natured,  hospitable  and  fond  of  luxury  and  display.  Its  Academy  of  Sciences  and  the 
National  Museum  are  handsome  modern  buildings  with  large  libraries  anil  valuable  collections. 
The  University  of  Pesth  has  over  two  thousand  students  and  a  librar}-  of  one  hundred  and  twenty 
thousand  volumes.  Tlie  public  baths  of  Budapest  are  famous  throughout  Europe,  and  its  parks, 
promenades  and  public  gardens  are  beautiful,  picturescjue  and  delightful  resorts. 


MELBOURNE. 


THE  city  of 
Melbourne.'' 
says  the  Au- 
stralian writer,  Mr. 
Sutherland,  "is 
without  exception 
the  most  striking 
instance  of  the  apti- 
tude of  the  Anglo- 
Saxon  race  for  colo- 
nization."  The 
story  of  its  settle- 
ment and  growth 
would  certainly 
seem    to    loear    out 

his  statement.  Our  American  Chicago  is  its  only  rival  in  the  world  in  rapidity  of  growth.  It  was 
not  till  the  opening  year  of  the  present  century,  so  we  are  assured,  that  the  first  European  sailed 
through  the  narrow  entrance  to  Port  Phillip,  and  it  was  only  in  1835  that  the  first  white  man 
made  his  habitation  there. 

To-day,  where  in  1835,  John  Pascoe  Fawkner,  sailing  up  the  Yarra  in  his  little  "  Enterprise  " 
laden  with  materials  for  a  settlement,  was  stopped  by  a  slight  waterfall  in  a  valley,  where  dense 
groves  of  wattle-trees  all  in  bloom  loaded  the  air  with  perfume,  Avhere  flocks  of  white  cockatoos 
whirled  aloft  at  the  first  stroke  of  the  axe,  there  stretches  for  ten  miles  in  one  direction  and  six  in 
another,  the  streets  and  public  buildings,  the  shops  and  homes  of  fully  four  hundred  thousand 
people ;  and  the  city  of  Melbourne,  the  capital  of  Victoria  —  the  smallest  but  wealthiest  colony  in 


GOVEKXMKXT    mil.DIM, 


84  GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD. 

Australia  —  is  proving  in  the  Southern  Hemisphere  as  has  already  been  proven  in  the  Northern, 
the  ability  of  the  Anglo-Saxon. to  build  strongly,  solidh*,  swiftly. 

Situated  at  tlie  head  of  the  large  bay  of  Port  Phillip  in  the  extreme  south-eastern  corner  of 
the  mighty  island  of  Australia,  it  lines  the  shores  of  the  bay  for  a  distance  of  over  ten  miles, 
though  tlie  part  known  as  the  "city"  proper  is  on  the  noith  branch  of  the  Yarra  River  some  three 
miles  inland.  Its  three  principal  streets,  running  parallel  to  the  river,  are  Bourke,  Collins  and 
Flindejs,  and  aie  devoted  respectively  to  mercantile  houses,  the  popular  "  shops  "  and  the  maritime 
offices  and  warehouses. 

Melbourne,  though  not  of  imposing  appearance  from  the  sea,  improves  vastly  on  acquaintance. 
Its  public  buildings  are  located  on  elevated  positions  where  they  are  seen  to  best  advantage,  its 
streets  are  wide  and  clean,  and  beneath  its  usually  clear  blue  sky  its  universal  appearance  is  that 
of  prosperity,  activity  and  comfort. 

"  Melbourne,"  says  Dr.  Wight,  returning  from  a  visit  to  it  in  1887,  "  is  quite  equal  to  San 
Francisco  in  wealth,  in  solidity  and  splendor  of  buildings  and  in  business  activity.  Collins  Street 
is  one  of  the  finest  thoiougli fares  in  the  world,  quite  equal  to  any  two  miles  of  Broadway.  Mel- 
bourne's Public  Library  of  one  hundred  and  thirty  thousand  volumes,  its  University,  its  Exposi- 
tion Building,  its  new  Houses  of  Parliament,  its  Inns  of  Court,  its  Observatory,  its  unrivalled 
botanical  gardens  and  other  institutions  are,  considering  the  age  of  the  city,  actually  phenomenal." 

Among  the  "  other  institutions  "  in  Melbourne  referred  to  by  Dr.  Wight  may  be  mentioned 
the  liandsome  and  ingenious  markets,  the  Hospital,  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Patrick,  the  Scotch  Church 
in  Collins  Street,  the  thirty  large  school-buildings  and  many  of  the  business  houses.  The  parks 
of  the  city  are  both  extensive  and  handsome.  Public  instruction  is  free  and  Melbourne  Univer- 
sity has  a  staff  of  ten  professors  and  twelve  lecturers  with  more  than  four  hundred  students. 

The  commerce  and  manufactures  of  Melbourne  are  considerable  and  constantly  increasing. 
The  imports  and  exports  for  1889  aggregated  fully  two  hundred  millions  of  dollars;  the  intellec- 
tual life  of  the  city  is  flourishing ;  it  has  three  morning  and  three  evening  dailies,  while  the  climate 
and  the  cost  of  living  make  the  city  a  most  promising  home  for  the  enterprising  business  man, 
mechanic  or  laborer. 

In  this  latter  respect  all  visitors  agree.  "In  no  land,"  says  Dr.  Wight,  "have  I  seen  the 
toilers,  the  real  wealth-creators  so  well  clothed,  so  well  fed,  so  well  housed,  or  their  general  con- 
dition in  life  so  good.  Comfort  being  generally  diffused  there  is  nothing  on  which  the  destructive 
and  criminal  forms  of  socialism  can  feed  and  grow.  The  })liilanthropist  can  feast  his  eyes  on  the 
pleasing  spectacle  of  requited  toil.  It  is  worth  a  journey  to  the  other  side  of  the  globe  to  behold 
the  blessed  sight."  And  Mr.  Sutherland  asserts  that.  "  there  is  no  city  where  more  has  been  done 
for  the  working  classes  or  where  they  have  niiule  so  good  a  use  of  their  advantages.  It  is  one  of 
the  peculiar  features  of  Melbourne  that  about  three  out  of  every  four  mechanics  who  have  reached 
middle  life  own  the  neat  cottages  they  occupy." 


LYONS. 


LYONS   is  a  city  with  a  past,  a  present  and  a  future.     It  dates  back  as  one  of    the  most 
ancient  and  most  important  of  the  Roman  cities  of  Gaul ;  its  industries  have  made  it  one  of 
the  leading  manufacturing  cities  of  France  ;  its  position  and  its  trade  will  make  it  one  of 
the  most  flourishing  and  progressive  cities  of  the  republic. 

It  is  the  second  city  in  France  in  ■size  and  importance  and  its  position  at  the  confluence  of  the 
rivers  Rhone  and  Saone  gives  it  at  once  picturesqueness  of  situation  and  excellent  manufacturing 
facilities.  It  is  a  fortified  town  defended  and  dominated  by  "  the  scarped  heights  "  of  Fourvieres, 
St.  Iren^e  and  Ste.  Foy,  and  contains  to-day  a  population  of  ovei-  four  hundred  thousand  —  busy, 
industrious  and  well-trained  workmen. 


GREAT  CITIES   OF  THE    WORLD. 


85 


It  is  the  birth-place  of  three  Roman  empLTors  and, 
what  is  more  important,  of  the  great  silk  industry  of 
France,  tlie  mean  annual  value  of  this  important  product 
of  the  looms  of  Modern  Lyons  aggregating  fully  two 
hundred  and  lifty  million  dollars. 

Founded  sixty  yeai-s  before  Christ  by  Greek  refugees 
it  was  given  its  earliest  importance  by  Agrippa  and 
Augustus.  It  was  burned  by  that  royal  "  fire-bug,"  Nero; 
but,  as  was  customary  with  him  in  adjusting  insurance 
claims  in  his  burned  districts,  he  rebuilt  the  city  in  a 
st3-le  of  much  magnificence,  and  from  that  day,  though 
suffering  many  of  the  changes  and  clianc^s  of  so  impor- 
tant a  military  post  it  has  advanced  in  size,  wealth  and 
condition. 

In  common  with  many  of  the  European  cities  Lyons 
has  an  old  and  a  new  town  —  the  former  crowded,  nar- 
row and  confined  ;  the  latter  roomy,  well-built  and  archi- 
tecturally adorned.  Thirteen  bridges  span  the  busy 
Sa8ne  to  the  faubourg  of  Vaise  ;  ten  cross  the  Rhone  and  afford  communication  with  the  well- 
built  section  of  Brotteaux. 

Lyons  is  provided  with  many  fine  and  famous  buildings  —  its  Bourse,  its  City  Hall,  it»>  Art 
Museum,  its  Academy,  or  "  Great  Seminary,"  its  hospital,  dating  back  thirteen  hundred  years,  its 
Library  and  its  store  of  ancient  ruins  and  remains  make  it  one  of  the  most  interesting  as  it  is  one 
of  the  most  attractive  of  French  cities. 

Besides  the  great  silk  interest  —  which  employs  more  than  seventy  thousand  looms  and  over 
one  hundred  and  forty  thousand  weavers  —  Lyons  has  many  important  industries.  Its  dye  and 
chemical  works,  breweries,  pork  factories,  engineering  and  printing  establishments  and  hat  factoiies 
are  among  the  most  important ;  and  b}-  no  means  the  least  is  its  trade  in  chestnuts  which  are  known 
in  the  markets  of  the  world  as  Maroons  de  Lyon.  Both  the  SaSne  and  the  Rhone  are  navigable, 
and  the  barge  and  steamboat  traffic  are  large  in  tlie  seasons  when  the  rivers  are  at  their  highest. 


BELOW   TIIK    UKIGHTS. 


WARSAW. 


WARSAW  I  the  unfortunate  capital  of  unfortunate  Poland.     What  memories  does  not  its 
name  call  up.     Memories  of  that  fervid  novel  of  our  youth  —  the  tearful  story  of  the 
tearful  though  princely  Thaddeus ;  recollections  of  the  fire  and  force  which  our  school- 
boy voices  knew  when  rolling  out  in  declamation  the  burning  apostrophe  of  Campbell : 

"  Oh,  bloorliest  picture  in  the  book  of  Time  I 
Sarniatia  fell,  unwept,  without  a  crime; 
Founil  not  a  gcuci'ous  friend,  a  pitying  foe, 
Strengtli  in  her  arm  nor  mercy  in  licr  woe. 
Dropped  from  her  nerveless  grasp  the  shattered  spear, 
Closed  her  bright  eye  and  curbed  her  high  career. 
Hope  for  a  season  bade  the  earth  farewell. 
And  Freedom  shrieked  as  Kosciusko  fell !  " 


And  yet  to-day,  in  spite  of  its  dismal  fortunes  of  a  century  ago,  Warsaw,  with  its  population 
of  four  hundred  and  fifty  thousand,  its  beautiful  river,  its  ample  communications  and  its  com- 
merce, its  university  and  its  scientific  societies,  its  palaces  and  numerous  places  of  amusement. 


86  GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE    WORLD. 

Warsaw,  according  to  Mr.  Kropatkine.  is  one  of  the  most  pleasant  as  well  as  one  of  the  most 
animated  cities  of  Eastern  Europe.  In  Russia,  he  asserts,  it  is  excelled  in  importance  by  the  two 
Russian  capitals  only ;  and  doubtless  it  would  have  attained  even  a  larger  population  and  a  yet 
higher  place  in  the  world  of  commerce  and  intellect,  were  it  not  for  its  sad  and  checkered 
history  and  the  foreign  domination  of  which  the  traveler  is  reminded  at  every  step. 

Although  by  the  acts  of  this  "  foreign  domination  "  Warsaw  is  to-day  only  the  chief  town  of 
the  Government  of  Warsaw,  a  division  of  the  Russian  empire,  its  beautiful  situation,  its  central 
location,  its  direct  connection  with  the  great  cities  of  Northern  and  Eastern  Europe,  its  facilities 
for  trade  and  manufacture,  the  superiority  of  its  engineers  and  the  skill  of  its  artisans,  still  keep 
it  a  flourishing  and  progressive  city  in  spite  of  Russian  tyrannj'  and  persecution. 

Warsaw  stands  upon  a  terrace,  one  hundred  feet  in  height,  that  stretches  away  to  the  west- 
ward and  descends  by  steep  slopes  to  the  Vistula  flowing  below  it.  It  is  inclosed  by  a  rampart 
and  a  fosse,  is  entered  by  ten  gates  and  defended  by  a  vast  citadel.  The  city  is  semicircular  in 
plan,  with  a  diameter,  along  the  Vistula,  of  nearly  five  miles.  Its  streets  are  full  of  life  and 
action  and  are  lined  with  many  fine  buildings.  There  are  in  Warsaw  one  hundred  and  sixt}' 
palaces,  more  than  two  hundred  cathedrals,  churches  and  monasteries,  and  many  schools,  hospitals, 
scientific  societies,  gymnasia  and  museums.  One  of  its  pleasure  grounds  —  the  Saski  Ogrod  or 
Saxon  Garden  —  is  one  of  the  most  beautiful  public  gardens  in  Europe.  Its  theaters  are  famous, 
and  the  open-air  theater,  made  from  an  artificial  ruin  in  a  great  garden  laid  out  in  an  old  bed  of 
the  Vistula,  is  the  pride  of  Warsaw. 

The  chief  life  of  the  city  is  in  and  about  the  castle  on  Sigismund  Square,  from  which  four 
main  avenues  diverge.  The  Krakowskie  Przeilmiescie  is  Warsaw's  finest  street,  and  boasts  many 
beautiful  buildings.  The  old  town  to  the  north  of  Sigismund  Square  is  almost  mediaeval  in  its 
old  buildings  and  narrow  streets,  but  the  modern  city  is  ample,  cleanly  and  beautiful. 

The  trade  of  Warsaw  is  large,  and  its  industries  are  flourishing.  Its  suburbs  are  historic, 
and  are  full  of  palaces,  villas  and  noted  battle-fields.  It  is  one  of  the  most  interesting  of  the 
cities  of  Europe. 


BIRMINGHAM. 

THE  American  Indian  provides  himself  with  food  or  defends  himself  in  war  by  the  unerring 
use  of  a  Birmingham  rifle,  the  swift  horsemen  who  scour  the  plains  of  South  America  urge 
on  their  steeds  with  Birmingham  spurs  and  deck  their  gaud}-  jackets  with  Birmingham 
buttons ;  the  negro  laborer  hacks  down  the  sugar  cane  with  Birmingham  hatchets  and  presses  the 
luscious  juice  into  Birmingham  vats  and  coolers ;  the  dreamy  German  strikes  a  light  for  his  ever- 
lasting pipe  with  a  Birmingham  steel  and  tinder  carried  in  a  Birmingham  box ;  the  emigrant  cooks 
his  frugal  dinner  in  a  Birmingham  saucepan  over  a  Birmingham  stove,  and  caiTies  his  little  luxu- 
ries in  tins  stamped  with  the  name  of  a  Birmingham  maker."  This  is  the  vivid  fashion  in  which 
Elihu  Burritt,  the  "  learned  blacksmith,"  describes  the  chief  center  of  the  metallic  manufacturing 
world ;  after  ]\Ianchester,  the  most  important  industrial  town  in  all  England,  is  Birmingham. 

Oaly  sixteen  miles  from  Warwick  and  Kenilworth,  scarcely  twenty  from  drowsy  Stratford- 
upon-Avon,  what  a  contrast  is  there  between  this  busy  manufacturing  town  on  the  river  Rea  with 
its  mass  of  red  brick  houses  crowning  the  undulating  hills  that  rise  from  the  river,  and  in  turn 
dominated  over  by  the  tall,  smoked  factory  chimneys  that  belch  forth  clouds  of  smoke  by  night 
a'.id  by  day,  and  the  quiet  rural  beauty  that  encircles  Warwick  Castle  and  the  stately  towers  of 
Kenilworth  ! 

Yet  Birmingham  is  not  so  black  as  she  is  painted.  With  her  four  hundred  and  forty -seven 
thousand  inhabitants  busy  day  and  night,  more  than  one-fourth  of  them  work-people  and  artisans, 
making  guns  and  rifles,  moulding  buttons  (of  which  seven  hundred  and  fifty  millions  are  made  in 


A    MAHEIAGE    CEREMONY    IX    AVARSAW 


88  GREAT   CITIES    OF   THE    WORLD. 

one  year),  with  her  iron-roUino-,  her  electro-plating,  her  lami^vmaking,  her  manufactures  of  steam- 
engines,  bolts,  screws,  glass  and  crystal,  lier  bronze  statues  and  her  art  metal-Avoi-ks,  her  implements 
of  warfare,  her  bayonets  and  swords,  and  her  Gillott's  steel  pens,  mightier  than  the  sword  —  with 
all  this  multifarious  industr}',  Birmingham  still  has  the  reputation  of  being  one  of  the  healthiest 
towns  in  the  United  Kingdom. 

Broad,  too,  as  her  new  and  handsome  streets,  are  her  views.  Freedom  of  thought  is  welcomed 
with  freedom  of  speech.  The  Reform  Bill  of  1832  was  cradled  in  Birmingham  ;  the  red-hot 
Chartists  found  their  head-quarters  there.  Now  the  Radicals  hold  mau}^  meetings  and  fervently 
discuss  the  wrongs  of  the  laboring  man.  For  more  than  four  hundred  and  fifty  years  the  laboring 
men  have  lived  here ;  as  early  as  1538  Birmingham  was  described  as  a  good  market  town  contain- 
ing many  smiths,  "  that  use  to  make  knives  and  all  mannour  of  cutting  tooles."  About  this  time 
the  De  Berminghams,  the  original  lorda  of  the  manor,  ceased  their  connection  witli  the  hamlet ; 
but  their  good  bones  rest  in  state  in  the  Church  of  St.  Martin,  the  only  building  (dating  from  the 
thirteenth  centuiy)  that  has  any  claim  to  antiquity. 

If  this  be  the  Age  of  Machiner}-,  Birmingham  is,  indeed,  the  epitome  of  the  age.  The  fact 
cannot  be  denied  that  the  commercial  and  artistic  spirits  are  at  variance.  The  true  artist  habitu- 
ally outrages  the  commercial  spirit ;  how  a  thing  lookis  to  him  is  far  more  important  than  wliat  it 
costs  or  what  it  will  bring,  while  the  industrial  spirit  asks  only  how  to  make  a  thing  in  the  cheap- 
est possible  manner,  and  then  how  to  go  on  producing  that  thing  at  the  lowest  possible  rate  in  the 
greatest  possible  quantities  that  tlie  market  will  bear.  The  tired  ai-tist  must  stop ;  his  work, 
pushed  beyond  the  imaginative  point,  is  valueless  ;  the  tired  artisan  may,  nay,  he  must  go  on,  his 
work  Ls  mechanical. 

It  is  to  the  credit  of  Birmingham  tliat  in  spite  of  this  tendency  she  has  not  allowed  her 
industries  to  dull  her  brain  or  crush  her  spirit  —  she  is  wide  awake  and  progressive.  For  her 
workingmen  she  has  provid(!d  her  Birmingham  and  Midland  Institute.  Here,  in  the  metal- 
manufacturing  center  of  the  world,  a  line  collection  of  minerals  is  open  to  the  study  of  the 
artificer  and  mechanic  ;  here,  too,  for  a  penu}'  the  hard-working  man  can  listen  to  lectures  that 
bear  directly  upon  his  labor  by  some  of  the  most  celebrated  scientific  men  of  the  United  Kingdom. 
The  Free  Library,  the  Art  Gallery  and  Museum  with  its  wonderful  water-colors  by  Davicl  Cox,  a 
native  of  Birmingham  (as  is  also  Burne-Jones),  the  new  Scliool  of  Art  built  in  1885,  the  first 
municipal  school  of  art  in  England,  are  all  educators  and  upliftere  of  the  masses.  Birmingham 
believes  that  in  knowledge  is  strength. 

A  morning  may  profitably  be  spent  in  Mason  College  with  its  six  liundred  students  interested 
in  its  splendid  laboratories  and  library  of  eighteen  thousand  volumes.  Three  hundred  thousand 
dollars  scarcely  cover  the  cost  of  tlie  handsome  biick  edifice  while  its  endowment  of  seven  hundred 
thousand  dollars  more  gives  it  excellent  opportunities. 

Another  morning  may  be  pleasantly  spent  among  the  "  ancient  and  lionorables,"  visiting  the 
statues  of  tlie  great  men  of  Birmingliam  wlio  have  left  the  memoiy  of  their  good  deeds  and  dis- 
coveries behind  them.  In  front  of  the  Council  House  is  the  statue  of  Joseph  Priestley,  the  dis- 
coverer of  oxvgen.  The  Post  Office  is  adorned  with  a  statue  of  Sir  Rowland  Hill,  who  spent 
much  of  his  boyhood  here  ;  in  the  square  at  the  back  of  the  imposing  Madeleine-like  Town  Hall 
are  the  statues  of  Geo.  Dawson  the  essayist  and  lecturer  and  also  of  the  founder  of  Mason  College. 
James  Watt,  to  whom  Birmingham  owes  more  perhaps  than  any  one  man,  hiis  a  fine  statue  in 
^  Ratcliff  Place  ;  his  house  with  many  interesting  relics  is  still  .standing  at  Heathfield  in  the  suburbs 
and  can  readily  be  reached  by  cable  "tram-cars";  under  a  stateh'  monument,  designed  by 
Chantrey,  the  great  inventor  sleeps  calmly  in  the  parish  churc  li  of  Handsworth,  a  manufacturing 
suburb  in  which  his  works  formerly  stood. 

To-day  Birmingham,  ^\•ith  her  splendid  grammar  school  endowed  l)y  Edward  VI..  lier  college, 
her  art  schools,  museums  and  libraries,  her  improved  dwellings  for  the  poor  and  her  studied 
sanitary  improvements,  steps  proudly  to  the  forefront  of  the  English  manufactui-ing  towns.  She 
claims  to  be  ''  the  most  open  and  hospitable  to  ideas,  the  most  fully  developed  example  of  the 
English  city  of  the  future  —  in  a  word,  the  city  wherein  the  spirit  of  th»iiew  time  is  most  widely, 
variously  and  energetically  assuming  visible  form  and  shape."  If  lier  actions  are  co-orchnate  with 
her  ambitious  Birminsfham  has  a  nreat  industrial  future  before  her. 


Tin;  risii  makkkt  at  Amsterdam.     (After  a  painting  by  II.  nemnunn.) 


AMSTERDAM. 


THE  Venice  of  the  North,  Amsterdam,  Holland's  commercial  capital,  lies  on  the  Y  or  Ij,  an 
arm  of  the  Zuyder  Zee  at  its  confluence  \A-ith  the  Amstel.  Ninety  islands,  instead  of  the 
one  hundred  and  seventeen  of  Venice,  make  up  the  city  which  is  protected  against  the 
inroads  of  the  Zuyder  Zee  by  the  great  dam  first  constructed  in  1204.  Three  hundred  bridges, 
(ophaalhruygen^  drawbridges,  and  (^drauibruyyen^  swingbridges  span  the  canals  large  and  small, 
while  a  giant  canal,  the  Buitensingel,  six  and  one  half  miles  long,  encircles  the  wall  of  the  semi- 
circular town. 

Picture  to  yourself  a  low-lying  level  city,  whose  tall,  narrow,  bright-red  brick  houses  with 
their  brilliant  white  mortar  look  as  if  they  had  been  freshly  polished,  whose  narrow  gables  with 
their  '•  pigeon-steps  "  faoe  the  street  and  are  frequently  ornamented  with  j^rojecting  beams  which 
are  used  to  hoist  goods  up  into  the  lofts,  and  whose  top  is  decorated  with  a  curious  forked 
chimney-stack.  Let  these  houses  with  their  shining  flights  of  white  marble  steps  and  their  liroad, 
polished  windows  look  at  their  shining  faces  reflected  in  the  broad  canals  at  their  feet ;  let  these 
canals  be  bordered,  as  are  the  Purizen,  Keizers  and  Heeren  Gracht,  with  splendid  avenues  shaded 
by  fine  elms;  on  the  site  of  the  ramparts  and  the  eight  and  twenty  bastions  which  formerl}- 
defended  the  city,  plant  a  row  of  giant  windmills  with  picturesque  outstretched  arms,  over  it  all 
arch  a  soft  sky  of  fleecy  clouds  mingled  with  heaven's  own  blue  reflecting  in  the  canals,  a  sky 
such  as  Cuyp  loved  and  immortalized  in  his  landscapes  in  the  Trippenhuis,  a  sky  such  as  the 
great  Flemish  marine  painter  of  to-day,  Clajs,  places  upon  his  canvas,  and  you  have  a  picture  of 
the  cheery  Dutch  town  of  Amsteidam  at  its  best. 

Thrift,  frugality,  neatness  sometimes  almost  degenerating  into  formalit}'.  a  steady  clinging  to 
the  old — the  characteristic  Dutch  virtues — are  all  exemplified  in  this  typical  Dutch  town. 
Vessels  unloading  at  the  brick-paved  quays  and  passing  up  and  down  the  canals,  the  cheerful 
creak  of  the  drawbridges,  and  the  general  bustle  and  stir  of  business  almost  make  the  traveler 
forget  that  he  is  treading  on  what  was  once  a  vast  quagmire,  whose  mud  had  to  be  lalx>riously 
filled  with  i^iles  to  a  depth  of  fift)'  feet  until  a  bed  of  firm  sand  was  reached.     This  pile  foundation 

89 


90  GREAT   CITIES    OF   THE   WORLD. 

gave  rise  to  the  joking  remark  of  Erasmus  that  he  knew  a  oily  whose  inhabitants  all  lived  in  the 
tops  of  the  trees  like  rooks. 

It  is  natural  that  the  center  of  business  should  be  at  the  Dam,  a  large  square  in  the 
city's  center  near  the  ancient  dam  to  which  the  city  owes  its  origin.  Looking  out  over  this 
square,  which  is  embellished  with  a  lofty  monument  to  the  Goddess  of  Peace,  stands  the 
stateljs  massive  and  sober  palace  which  cost  over  eight  million  florins,  and  was  formerly 
used  as  a  Town  Hall.  Here  the  wealthy  Stadtholders  used  to  assemble ;  from  tlie  liigh 
tower  crowned  by  a  gilded  ship  emblematic  of  Amsterdam's  flourishing  commerce,  they  could 
look  down,  as  does  the  tourist  of  to-day,  over  the  crowded  city  with  its  narrow  streets,  tree- 
bordered  canals,  the  countless  houses  with  their  quaint-forked  chimneys,  the  forests  of  masts,  the 
shimmering  Ziiyder  Zee,  the  filled-in  Haarlemmer  Meer  and  the  silvery  ribbon  of  a  canal  which 
runs  side  by  side  witli  tlie  high-road  that  leads  from  Amsterdam  to  Haarlem. 

Hard  by  the  Palace  rises  the  picturesque  cruciform  Nieuwe  Kerk,  whose  beginning  dates 
from  1408.  Here  are  countless  monuments  erected  to  the  naval  heroes  of  Holland,  conspicuous 
among  which  is  the  monument  to  the  gallant  Van  Speyk  who  "maintained  the  honor  of  his 
country's  flag  at  the  cost  of  his  life."  Caught  in  a  fearful  storm,  the  wind  had  driven  his  gunboat 
on  the  Belgian  coast ;  a  crowd  of  greedy  Belgians  called  him  to  haul  down  his  flag  and  surrender. 
Preferring  death  to  dishonor  and  betrayal  of  his  country's  trust,  the  devoted  young  admii-al 
replied  by  instantly  firing  his  pistol  into  liis  powder  magazine.  A  flash,  a  deafening  peal  instantly 
followed;  his  sliip  blew  into  fragments  and  friends  and  foes  alike  followed  the  gallant  sailor  into 
the  other  world. 

The  lieroes  of  Holland's  history  are  immortalized  on  canvas  as  well.  The  Trippenhuis,  the 
finest  picture  gallery  in  Holland  contains  some  splendid  Rembrandt^  ;  liis  Night-Watch,  eleven 
by  fourteen  feet,  being  his  laigest  and  most  celebrated  work.  Here,  too,  are  priceless  Jan  Steens, 
Gerard  Dows,  Van  der  Heists,  Cuyps,  Ruysdaels,  Teniers,  Van  D3'cks  and  other  celebrated  can- 
vases. Private  collections  too  abound  to  which  art-lovere  are  -freely  made  welcome ;  for  a 
characteristic  of  the  Dutch  is  their  free-hearted  hospitality. 

The  only  portion  of  Amsterdam  which  is  not  Dutch  and  polished  like  "the  handle  of  the  big 
front  door  "  is  the  Jewish  quarter  where  Oriental  faces  and  costumes  abound  and  Oriental  manners 
as  well.  Complete  religious  toleration  in  the  seventeenth  century  drew  the  Jews  to  this  great 
commercial  city :  one  tenth  of  Amsterdam's  inhabitants  are  Jews  and  the  city  has  the  proud 
distinction  of  being  the  birthplace  of  Spinoza.  The  art  for  which  Amsterdam  is  famous,  diamond 
polishing,  was  brought  here  by  the  Portuguese  Jews,  who  to-day  almost  monopolize  the  trade. 
Tlie  Avealthy  Jews  of  to-day  with  their  ten  synagogues  form  an  important  factor  in  the  city's  life ; 
in  them  the  Stadtholdei's  have  always  found  firm  friends. 

In  return  the  city  has  treated  them,  as  it  has  all  other  religious  orders  with  complete  toleration ; 
so  that  sects  and  churches  of  all  kinds  and  conditions  of  men  abound.  The  unsectarian  Society 
for  the  Public  Welfare  which  numbers  nearly  twenty  thousand  members  is  a  sort  of  a  giant  Young 
Men's  Christian  Association,  Humane  Society  and  Sunday-school  Publishing  House  combined. 

One  characteristic  of  the  Holland  Dutch  is  the  tenacity  with  which  old  customs  and  costumes 
are  adhered  to  ;  even  on  the  busj-  qua5-s  of  Amsterdam,  where  the  ships  are  unloading  their  rich 
freights  of  camphor  and  indigo,  sugar  and  spice  and  all  the  oriental  products  of  the  Dutch  colonies 
of  India  and  Africa,  the  tourists  may  encounter  the  ponderous  figure  of  woman  with  her  dozen 
stiffly  starched  skirts,  with  her  horse-slioe  band  of  gold  across  her  forehead  and  great  rosettes  of 
metal  at  the  side  l)elow  the  cap  of  rich  lace  with  hanging  lappets.  Sometimes  the  lace  cap  is 
replaced  by  a  metal  skull-cap  usually  of  gold. 

As  picturesque  as  the  costumes  are  the  carefully  cultivated  gardens  and  villas  outside  the 
city,  the  paradises  of  the  Dutch  gentry,  where  art  has  done  all  she  can  to  make  up  for  Nature's 
deficiencies.  Here,  descendants  or  relatives  of  Mynheer  Diedrich  Knickerbocker  may  be  seen 
placidly  smoking  their  long  pipes  under  the  shade  of  ancestral  willows  beside  their  houses  which 
are  often  labeled  "Lust  en  Rust"  (pleasure  in  repose),  "  Vreugdebij  Vrede  "  (joy  with  peace) 
and  other  bucolic  sentiments.  The  busy  American,  possibly  a  "  Cooky  "  who  is  doing  Holland  and 
has  not  time  to  half  possess  his  soul  before  he  dies,  may  well  look  with  envy  on  these  stolid,  solid 
Dutch  burofhers  of  Amsterdam  and  the  vicinity. 


^-r^ii^^^' 


IN  AMSTERDAM. 


MADRID. 


w 


'HEN  Charles  the  Fifth,  King  of  Spain, 
Emperor  of  Germany  and  Lord  of 
the  Indies  —  '•  the  mightiest  monarch 
in  Christendom  "  —  found  his  royal  system 
benefited  by  the  health-giving  airs  that  were 
Avafted  down  from  the  Guadarrama  iVIountains 
and  made  the  hunting  lodge  of  Majrit,  or 
IMadrid,  his  royal  residence,  the  future  of  the 
little  hamlet  was  assured,  and  from  a  royal 
hunting  seat  it  has  grown  to  be  the  capital  city 
of  Spain,  the  home  of  fully  four  hundred  thous- 
and people  and  the  largest  and  leading  city  of 
the  kingdom. 

Situated  almost  in  the  center  of  Spain, 
upon  a  small  branch  of  the  Tagus  River  it 
crowns  a  collection  of  sandhills  at  an  elevation 
of  some  twenty-three  hundred  feet,  giving  it  a 
salubiious  situation  and  an  extended  view. 
The  cit}-  is  almost  square  in  shape,  and  three 
of  the  ancient  gateways  that  formerly  pierced 
the  wall  that  defended  the  city  still  exist. 
What  was  the  east  gate,  or  Gate  of  the  Sun 
(Puerta  del  Sol),  is  now  the  center  of  the  city 
—  the  favorite  lounging  and  business  quarter, 
from  which  diverge  North,  East,  South  and 
West,  the  principal  streets  of  the  city.  The 
Puerta  del  Sol,  says  the  Italian  traveler  De 
Amicis,  "  is  a  stupendous  sight.  It  is  an  immense  semi-circular  square  (surrounded  by  high 
buildings)  into  which  open,  like  ten  torrents,  ten  great  streets,  and  from  every  street  comes  a 
continuous,  noisy  wave  of  people  and  carriages,  and  everything  seen  there  is  in  proportion  with 
tlie  vastness  of  the  locality.  The  sidewalks  are  as  wide  as  streets,  the  caf<;s  large  as  squares  and 
on  every  side  there  is  a  dense  and  mobile  crowd,  a  deafening  racket,  an  indescribable  gayety  and 
brightness  in  the  features,  gestures  and  colors,  which  make  you  feel  that  neither  the  populace  nor 
the  city  is  strange  to  you." 

Madrid  has  few  fine  or  even  notable  buildings,  "No  great  places  nor  ancient  monuments  of 
art,"  says  De  Amicis,  "  meet  the  eye ;  but  there 
are  wide,  clean,  gay  streets,  flanked  l)y  houses 
painted  in  vivid  colors,  bi"oken  here  and  tliere 
b}'  squares  of  a  thousand  different  forms,  laid 
out  almost  at  random  and  eveiy  square  con- 
tains a  garden,  a  fountain  and  statuette.  Every 
now  and  then  there  are  cross-roads  of  five,  six 
and  even  eight  streets  and  here  there  is  a  con- 
tinuous mingling  of  carriages  and  people ;  the 
walls  are  covered  for  some  distance  with  play- 
bills ;  in  the  shops  there  is  an  incessant  coming 
and  going ;  the  cafes  are  crowded  and  on 
every  side  there  is  the  bustle  of  a  large  city. 
The  street  Alcalii,  which  is  so  wide  that  ii 
seems  almost  like  a  rectangular  square,  divides 

92 


TIIK   nOV-KINd    (>\-   SPAIN. 


THE  PALACE   OF  COXGRESS. 


IN   THE  BULL-CIRCUS,   MADRID. 


94  GREAT  CITIES   OF  THE   WORLD. 

Madi'id  in  half,  from  the  Pueita  del  Sol  toward  the  east,  and  ends  in  an  immense  plain  that  ex- 
tends all  along  the  side  of  the  city  and  contains  gardens,  walks,  squares,  theaters,  bull-circuses, 
triumphal  arches,  museums,  small  palaces  and  fountains." 

The  fashionable  promenade  of  Madrid  is  the  Prado.  Although  not  the  longest  or  the  most 
beautiful  of  the  avenues  of  Madrid,  it  is  the  most  famous.  It  is,  properlj-  speaking,  a  very  broad 
but  not  very  long  avenue  flanked  by  minor  ones,  shut  in  at  either  end  by  enormous  stone  fount- 
ains, its  most  frequented  part  being  hedged  in  on  the  sides  bv  thousands  of  chairs  and  hundreds 
of  benches  belonging  to  water  and  orange  venders  who  rent  them  to  sj)ectators. 

"  Much  paper,"  says  De  Amicis,  "  could  be  covered  in  attempting  to  describe  the  great 
suburbs,  gates,  promenades  outside  the  city,  the  squares  and  historical  streets  of  Madrid;  its 
superb  caf^s  ;  its  gorgeous  shops  ;  its  spacious  markets,  barracks  for  an  army,  and  its  great  royal 
palace,  in  which  the  Quirinal  and  Pitti  could  hide  themselves  without  fear  of  discovery."  The 
royal  palace,  "an  immense  pile  on  a  hill"  —  is  of  white  Colmenar  granite,  one  hundred  feet  high 
and  four  hundred  and  sevent}'  feet  square,  a  pretentious  and  extensive  edifice.  The  fine  new 
Bank  of  Spain,  the  Naval  Museum,  the  Madrid  Armory,  the  edifice  in  which  assembles  the  Cortes 
or  Congress  of  the  kingdom,  the  royal  opera  house,  the  "  marvellous  "  picture-gallery  and  some  of 
the  palaces  of  the  grandees  or  princes  of  Spain  are  among  the  most  noticeable  of  the  buildings  in 
Madrid. 

As  regards  promenades,  theaters  and  spectacles  Madrid  is,  according  to  a  recent  visitor,  one 
of  the  first  cities  of  the  world.  The  Spaniard  is  fond  of  shows  and  the  excitements  of  a  spectacle. 
Hence,  even  more  than  to  the  opera  and  the  theater  is  the  citizen  of  Madrid,  whatever  his  rank  or 
station,  wedded  to  the  display  and  danger  of  the  bull-fight.  "  The  inauguration  of  the  bull-fights 
at  Madrid,"  says  De  Amicis,  "  is  decidedly  more  important  than  a  change  in  the  ministr3\"  The 
bull-circus,  or  Plaza  de  Toros  is  a  large  building  to  the  east  of  the  town  and  accommodates 
twelve  thousand  spectators.  The  finest  displays  are  during  the  summer,  the  regular  season  being 
inaugurated  about  the  first  of  April.  Madrid  is  the  seat  of  the  art.  Here  are  the  great  artists, 
the  superb  spectacles,  the  spectators  who  are  experts  and  the  judges  who  bestow  the  glory  upon 
the  victorious  toreros. 

The  entrance  of  the  performers  into  the  great  ring  of  the  Madrid  circus  is  picturesque,  the 
fight  with  tlie  infuriated  bulls  is  dramatic,  the  i14noument  is  sometimes  terrible  and  tragic.  The 
sport  is  brutal  but  exciting  and  the  spectator  is  carried  away  by  the  enthusiasm  and  rush  of  the 
spectacle. 

But  Madrid  is  not  all  show  and  spectacle.  It  has  schools  and  colleges,  learned  societies; 
statesmen,  poets,  philosophers,  charitable  institutions,  libraries  and  asylums,  and  its  trade  and 
manufactures,  though  inconsiderable,  are  such  as  support  and  develop  the  growing  capital  of  a 
great  though  not  a  progressive  kingdom. 


MARSEILLES. 

PHOENICIAN,  Grecian,  Roman,  Proven9al  and  French  —  the  old,  old  city  of  Massalia,  Mas- 
silia  and  Marseilles  lias  seen  and  suffered  much  but,  surviving  all  changes  of  time,  of  state, 
of  war  and  politics,  it  has  grown  steadily  until  it  is  to-day  the  third  largest  city  of  France 
and  the  chief  commercial  port  of  the  Mediterranean  with  a  population  of  nearly  four  hundred 
thousand  and  a  trade  that  interests  and  touches  every  part  of  the  civilized  world. 

Its  leading  industry  is  soap-making,  sixty  factories  being  engaged  in  this  cleansing  trade;  but 
its  sugar,  sulphur  and  petroleum  refineries  employ  a  large  number  of  its  inhabitants,  while  its 
smelting  works,  its  machinery  and  ship-building  establishments,  its  flour  mills,  paste  factories, 
brass  foundries,  glass-works,  match,  candle  and  wax-light  manufactories  and  its  other  minor  indus- 
tries make  it  a  busy,  populous  and  prosperous  city. 


(;i{E.\T   (ITIKS    OF    THE    WORM). 


9ft 


(roasting 
aggregates 


The  port  of  Mar- 
seilles, fronting  on  the 
(iiilf  of  Lyons,  just  east 
of  the  mouth  of  the 
Rhone,  lias  an  area  of 
foui'  huiulred  and  twen- 
ty-two acres  and  aeconi- 
luodates  sea-going  and 
traffic  that 
fully  four 
millions  of  tons.  It  is 
about  the  old  harbor, 
covering  seventy  acres, 
that  the  main  part  of 
the  city  clusters  and 
this  section,  known  as 
La  Cannebiei-e  (the 
rope-walk),  is  the  busi- 
est and  liveliest  por- 
tion of  the  town.  Here 
are  found  the  principal 
caf(!s,  shops,  hotels, 
naval  and  commercial 
agencies  and  the  Bourse. 

Despite  its  antiquity,  INIarseilles  has  no  ancient  monuments.  The  cathedral  is  a  modern  building 
of  gray  Florentine  stone,  built  in  the  form  of  a  Latin  cross,  four  hundred  and  sixty  feet  long :  it 
stands  upon  the  site  of  an  old  cathedral  which  superseded  a  temple  to  Diana,  itself  jjreceded, 
according  to  tradition,  by  a  Phoenician  altar  to  Baal.  High  above  the  town  rises  the  spire  of  a 
more  famous  church,  the  celebrated  Notre  Dame  de  la  Garde,  its  steeple  surmounted  by  a  gilded 
statue  of  the  Virgin,  thirty  feet  in  height.  From  its  spire  can  be  seen  the  blue  Mediterranean, 
dotted  with  all  sorts  of  craft  from  the  modern  ocean  steamers  bound  for  London,  Rio  Janeiro 
or  New  York,  to  the  old-fashioned  and  queerly-rigged  ^lediterranean  traders  with  their  low  quar- 
ters and  lateen  sails;  yonder  is  the  famous  Chateau  d'lf,  that  the  "Count  of  Monto  Cristo  "'  has 
made  immortal ;  to  the  west  are  the  Chateau  d'Eau,  the  Palace  of  Art,  the  picture  gallery,  the 
Zoological  Gardens  and  Astronomical  Observatory. 

Mai-seilles  has  been  notably  helped  by  the  opening  of  the  Suez  Canal  and  the  consequent 
growth  of  the  Mediterranean  trade.  Its  temperature  is  delightful ;  frost  is  rare,  snow  almost  un- 
known and  the  summer  heat  is  tempered  by  a  cool  sea-breeze  while  even  the  two  unpleasant 
breezes  known  as  the  mistral  and  the  sirocco  —  a  cold  north-west  and  hot  south-east  wind  respect- 
ively —  do  much  to  clarify  the  air  and  regulate  the  temperature. 


I,A    CANNEBIKUK. 


CAIRO. 


ALEXANDRIA  was  too  much  like  a  European  city  to  be  novel,"  says  Mark  T^ain.  writing 
from  Cairo.  '•  We  soon  tired  of  it,  so  we  took  the  cai-s  and  came  up  here  to  ancient  Caiio, 
which  is  an  oriental  city  and  of  the  completest  pattern.  There  is  little  about  it  to  disalnise 
one's  mind  of  the  error  if  he  shouhl  take  it  into  his  head  that  he  was  in  the  heart  of  Aralna. 
Stately  camels  and  dromedaries,  swarthy  Egyptians,  and  likewise  Turks  and  black  Ethiojiians, 
tnrbiined.  sashed  and  Itlazing  in  a  rich  variety  of  oriental  costumes  of  all  sorts  of  flashy  colors,  are 
what  one  sees  on  everv  hand  crowding-  the  narrow  streets  and  the  honev-combed  bazaai-s." 


GREAT  CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD. 


Cairo,  the  capital  of  modern  Egypt  and  next  to  Constantinople  the  second  city  of  the  Muslim 
world,  is  situated  on  the  east  bank  of  the  Nile,  about  twenty  miles  from  the  Delta.  It  has  a  pop- 
ulation of  fully  three  hundred  and  sevent^'-five  thousand  and  is  to-daj^  as  attractive  and  fas- 
cinating as  the  great  American  humorist  found  it  twenty  years  ago.  Less  oriental  than  Damascus 
and  far  less  European  than  Alexandria  it  is  still,  as  has  been  said  of  it,  "  a  city  of  Arabian  Nights, 
and  all  who  are  well  up  in  those  veracious  chronicles  will  find  themselves  perpetualh'  localizing 
the  scenes  and  individualizing  the  characters  of  which  Scheherazade  chattered  so  well  and  to  such 
good  purpose." 

Built  partly  on  a  plain  and  partly  on  the  lower  slope  of  the  Mokattem  Hills  the  city  as  seen 
from  the  citadel  perched  on  the  higher  ground  "  lies  like  the  thousand  little  turrets  of  a  Gothic 
edifice  at  the  foot  of  a  steep  white  mountain."  The  view  from  the  ramparts  of  this  citadel  is 
superb.  Below  lies  the  city  with  its  strongly-built  walls  and  lofty  towers,  its  gardens  and  squares, 
its  palaces  and  its  mosques,  in  all  the  beauty  of  their  delicately-carved  domes  and  minarets  cov- 
ered with  fantastic  tracery,  the  port  of  Bulak,  the  gardens  and  palace  of  Shubra,  the  broad  river 
studded  with  islands,  the  valley  of  tlie  Nile  dotted  with  groups  of  trees,  with  the  pyramids  on  the 
north  horizon,  the  fields,  gardens  and  villas  on  the  west,  and  on  the  east  the  barren  cliffs  backed 
by  an  ocean  of  sand. 

Here  or  hereabouts  a  city  has  existed  from  the  time  of  Joseph  and  the  Pharaohs.  The  pres- 
ent town  was  commenced  in  the  tenth  century,  was  built  under  the  guidance  of  the  stars  and 
placed  under  the  protection  of  the  planet  Kahir  or  Mars.  Hence  its  name  El-Kdhireh,  the  victori- 
ous.    Cairo  is  still  a  walled  town,  pierced  with  the  sevent^'-one   gates   given  it  by  the   Sultan 

Saladin,  but  since  1830  the  new  city 
has  swallowed  up  the  old  and  it  has 
now  a  circuit  of  at  least  eight  or  nine 
miles.  New  streets  have  been  cut 
through  the  crowded  districts ;  the 
Esbekuyah  or  principal  square  of  the 
city  is  the  center  of  its  European  life 
and  the  site  of  its  public  buildings  ; 
gas  and  water  liave  been  introduced 
and  though,  in  spite  of  all  these  mod- 
ern innovations,  the  city  still  retains 
its  oriental  character,  the  change  has 
been  sufficient  to  give  a  more  progres- 
sive air  to  its  belongings  and  its  life. 

The  town  is  walled  off  into  quar- 
ters which  take  their  names  from  their 
occupants,  and  a  canal  intersects  the 
city,  distributing  water  to  its  different 
sections.  The  houses  of  the  Avealthier 
citizens  are  spacious  and  often  elabor- 
ate ;  tliose  of  the  poorer  classes  are 
but  miserable  mud  hoveLs,  with  filthy 
courts,  dilapidated  windows  and  tat- 
tered awnings. 

The  most  notable  of  the  build- 
ings of  Cairo  are  the  Citadel,  over- 
looking the  town,  and  from  the  ram- 
parts of  which  Emin  Bey,  the  last  of 
the  Mamelukes,  took  liis  famous  leap 
for  life,  tlie  palace  of  the  Khedive,  the 
, .- ,  -'\^' ■- ^-^^^^^^-'-i:^'^ :^^-'=^'-^^^^zr^'S'':^^z~--  mosque  of  Mehemet  Ali,  the  mosques 

>  ~^  '"^^-^^^.^i'i-^'^'^^s^"^'^*'  of   Tulun,    of   Sultan    El    Hakim,  of 

A  STUKET  IN  CAIRO.  Al  Azhar   (•'  the  splendid  "),   and  of 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE    WORLD. 


97 


VIEW   FKO.M   THE   CITADEL   OF   CAIRO. 


Sultan  Kalaoon ;  the  Opera  House,  the  French  Theater  and  the  Hippodrome  owe  tlieir  exi.stence 
to  European  influence.  The  most  interesting  phice  in  Caiio  is  undoubtedly  tlic  Bulak  Museum 
in  which  is  kept  the  remarkable  collection  of  Egyptian  antiquities  commenced  by  the  French 
savant,  M.  Mariette,  and  since  added  to  by  other  Eg3'ptologists.  The  Pyramids  and  the  Sphinx 
are  but  an  hour  and  a  half  distant  from  Cairo. 

The  trade  and  commerce  of  this  capital  of  Egj-pt  are  of  no  little  extent  and  value.  The}-  are 
confined  largely,  however,  to  the  transit  of  goods  from  upper  Egypt,  from  Asia  and  from  Europe. 
Some  manufactories  are  in  operation,  but  the  interest  and  chief  life  of  the  city  lie  in  its  oriental 
cliaracter.  As  a  place  of  residence  it  is  hot  and  subject  to  frequent  epidemics  —  an  evil  which 
only  progressive  European  sanitation  can  remove. 


MADRAS. 


MADRAS  is  to-day  the  center  of  English  power  in  southeastern  India  and  has  an  historic 
existence  of  but  little  more  than  two  centuries.  It  is  the  capital  of  the  Madras  presi- 
dency—  a  province  of  the  English  Empire  of  India  and  has  a  population  of  a  little 
more  than  four  hundred  thousand.  The  city  is  noticeable  neither  for  architectural  adornment^ 
nor  increasing  trade,  and  although  third  in  commercial  importance  among  the  ports  of  India,  is 
being  rapidly  outstripped  both  in  trade  and  in  population  by  its  rival  on  the  western  coast  — 
Bomba}-. 

^ladras  does  not  possess  a  single  handsome  street  and  has  but  few  imposing  buddings. 
"  Seen  from  the  roadstead,"  says  Dr.  Hunter,  ''  the  fort,  a  row  of  merchants"  offices,  a  few  spires 
and  public  buildings  are  all  that  meet  the  eye."'  The  city  is  divided  into  (1)  the  Black  Town,  an 
ill-built,  densely  populated  section  of  about  a  mile  square  —  the  business  part  of  the  town ;  (2)  the 
government  departments,  fronting  the  sea ;  (3)  the  native  quarters  with  strange,  unpronounceable 
names;  (4)  the  Eurasian  quarter,  just  west  of  the  Black  Town,  and  the  suburbs  adorned  with  hand- 
some European  mansions;  and  (5),  south  of  the  Black  Town,  the  European  quarters  and  the  home 
of  the  "  aristocracy." 


98 


GHEAT   CITIES    OF   THE   WORLD. 


IX    THK    BLACK   TOWX,    MADRAS. 


The  strength  of  the  city  lies  in  its  wciilth  accumulated  in  the  past  and  in  the  fact  that  it  is 
the  governmental  headquarters  for  the  vast  presidency  of  Madras  —  a  province  covering  one  liun- 
dred  and  forty  thousand  square  miles  and  containing  a  population  of  over  thirty  millions.  Its 
trade  is  slight,  its  industries  decaying,  its  enterprises  unprosperons.  The  city  of  Madras  is  to- 
daj'  rather  a  military  than  a  commeri-ial  capital,  and  lias  neither  the  rank  nor  the  importance  of 
so  European  a  capital  as  Calcutta,  nor  so  pushing  a  commercial  city  as  Bombay. 


RIO   DE   JANEIRO. 


THE  capital  of  what  is  no4v  the  Repul)lic  of  Brazil  is  one  of  the  most  beautifully  located  of  all 
the  great  cities  of  the  world.  "  Nature,"  says  a  recent  writer,  "  has  been  too  lavish  in  her 
bounty  of  beauty  for  the  welfare  of  Kio."  The  city  enjoys  almost  unequalled  advantages 
in  situation  and  climate.  Its  harbor  shares  with  that  of  Sydney  the  honor  of  being  the  finest  in  the 
world.  Though  it  extends  inland  for  seventeen  miles,  has  an  extreme  bieadth  of  twelve  miles, 
and  is  so  vast  in  extent  that  it  is  said  to  be  capable  f)f  accommodating  all  the  navies  of  the  world, 
it  is  completely  landlocked,  the  entrance  being  onl)-  a  mile  wide.  To  the  left  of  this  entrance 
stands  the  Sugailoaf  Mountain,  rising  abruptly  twelve  hundred  feet  from  the  sea. 

The  first  glimpse  of  Hio,  according  to  a  recent  observer,  is  disappointing,  but  there  is  an 
afterglow  of  enthusiasm.  The  old  town  lies  on  a  level  plain  between  two  ranges  of  high  hills. 
Castle  Antonio  and  Santa  Thereza  on  one  side,  and  Bento  and  Livramento  on  the  other.  The 
streets  are  narrow,  even  the  Ouvidor,  the  Broadway  of  Kio,  being  hardly  more  than  a  paved  lane, 
and  the  facades  of  shops  and  the  more  ambitious  granite  and  marble  churches  and  public  build- 
ings are  not  impressive.  It  is  not  until  the  traveler  has  gone  about  among  the  suburbs  that  his 
entlmsiasni  is  excited.  Then  Rio  takes  complete  possession  of  the  imagination  and  remains  a  joy 
forever  in  memory. 

The  city  itself  stands  on  the  west  shore  of  the  harbor,  about  four  miles  from  its  mouth.  It 
consists  of  two  portions  —  the  Old  Town,  which  is  laid  out  in  squares,  the  streets  being  narrow  and 


GREAT   CITIKS    OF   TIIK    WORLD., 


it'.i 


ill-l);ive(.l,  iind  tlu'  houses 
(l)uilt  of  giiinite  for  tlie 
most  part)  geuerall}-  two 
stories  liioli  ;  juul  the 
New,  which  is  much  bet- 
ter huilt,  and  is  well- 
lit  with  gas.  These 
two  portions  of  the  city 
are  separjiteil  from  one 
another  by  an  immense 
square  or  park,  the  Campo 
(le  Santa  xVnna,  in  which 
stand  many  of  the  prin- 
cipal buildings.  The 
Cathedral  of  Nossa  Sen- 
hora  da  Gloria,  which 
is  a  conspicuous  object 
in  the  panorama  below,  stands  on  a  lofty  hill  on  the  south  side  of  the  city,  but,  like  the  other 
churches  of  the  city,  possesses  no  particular  architectural  merit.  Among  the  other  noticeable 
buildings  are  the  Hospital  of  Misericordia,  the  Public  Library,  the  Academy  of  Medicine,  and  the 
College  of  Dom  Pedro  the  Second. 

Mr.  I.  N.  Ford,  one  of  the  latest  observei"s  in  Brazil's  capital  assures  u«  that  "  of  the  archi- 
tecture of  Kio,  it  may  be  said  that  it  reproduces  the  general  effects  of  other  Brazilian  coast 
towns,  with  more  ambitious  lines  of  ornamentation  and  quieter  tones  of  color.  Most  of  the 
buildings  are  old-fashioned,  with  rough  stone  walls,  plastered  on  the  outside  or  decorated  with 
Portuguese  tiles.  Some  modern  buildings  are  seen,  the  new  Custom  House  being  the  most 
pretentious  among  them.  The  churches  are  numei'ous  and  plain.  The  Senate  and  Deputies' 
Chambers  are  small,  and  not  impressive.  The  ]\Iint  is  something  better,  and  the  Market  is  fairly 
good :    but   the    public   buildings,  on   the  whole,  are    disappointing.     The  best    streets   are  well 


lUO   UAliltOU    AND   SITOAnLOAF    MOl'XTAIX. 


naiflip»j 


■^m^ 


•<>> 
•^ 


lUO  DE  JAXEIRO. 


100 


GREAT  CITIES   OF  THE   WORLD. 


paved ;  bi'oken  cobble-stones  abound  in  the  poor  quarter.  Rio  is  well-lighted  with  street  lamps. 
It  is  a  city  of  great  commercial  importance,  rivalled  only  b}'  Buenos  Ayres." 

The  Botanical  Garden,  seven  miles  out,  is  one  of  the  chief  attractions  of  the  city.  The 
Passeio  Publico  is  a  beautiful  and  well-kept  garden  and  is  one  of  the  most  popular  of  the  city's 
breathing-places.  One  side  fronts  upon  the  bay  and  commands  extensive  views  from  an  elevated 
terrace,  especially  of  Sugarloaf  and  the  harbor  entriince.  It  is  thronged  with  promenaders 
early  in  the  evening  and  is  one  of  the  most  charming  spots  in  Rio.  The  National  Library,  one  of 
the  finest  institutions  in  the  country,  fronts  upon  this  public  garden,  and  tlie  Casino  is  close  by. 

"  Rio,"  says  Mr.  Fprd,  "  is  a  city  of  numerous  attractions  where  one  can  live  in  comfort  and 
even  luxury  for  nine  months  in  the  year,  and  the  remaining  three  are  not  nearly  so  bad  as  they  are 
represented.  When  there  is  pestilence  epidemic  in  the  town  Petropolis  and  suburbs  that  are 
healthful  at  all  times  are  accessible  places  of  refuge."' 


A    JAl'AXKSK    CAUKIAGK.  TIIK    .lIMtlKlSlIA. 


OSAKA. 


OSAKA,  or  Ozaka,  is  one  of  the  three  imperial  cities  of  Japan.  It  was  made  a  capital  by 
Hide-Yoshi,  "  eldest  son  of  the  God  of  War,"  in  1583  and  was  opened  to  foreign  trade  in 
1868.  It  has  grown  rapidly  in  trade  and  importance  in  recent  years  and  is  outstripping 
tlie  older  city  of  Kioto — ^^witli  which  it  is  now  connected  by  railway.  Osaka  is  the  Japanese 
Venice.  It  is  situated  in  the  southern  part  of  the  great  island  of  Niphon  and  on  both  sides  of  the 
River  Agi  and  is  cut  into  sections  by  river  branches  and  canals.  The  streets  are  not  broad  but  are 
regular  and  well  kept. 

There  are  nearly  two  thousand  Buddhist  and  Shinto  temples  in  Osaka,  the  largest  of  them 
being  the  Buddhist  Tennoj  which  covers  an  immense  area  in  the  south-east  portion  of  the  city 
and  from  whose  fine  pagoda  a  fine  outlook  is  obtained.     The  castle,  the  mint  and  the  arsenal  are 


GKEAT   CITIES   OF   THE    WOULD. 


lul 


the  chief  secular  builcliiigs   of   tlie  city.     Tiie   castle   is  a    vast   huilcUu'^',  piotected  by  lii<,'h  and 
massive  walls  and  surrounded  by  a  broad  and  deep  moat. 

Osaka  is  the  center  of  much  industrial  activity.  It  has  iron  and  copper  foundries,  rolling 
mills,  antimony  works,  glass  works,  paper  mills,  sugar  refineries,  cotton  and  rice  mills,  match  and 
soap  factories,  breweries,  oil  factories,  acid  works  and  ship-yards.  In  fact  this  old  seat  of  the  con- 
quering "eldest  son  of  the  god  of  war,"  is  fast  growing  into  one  of  the  most  practical,  busy  and 
progressive  cities  of  this  wonderfully  progressive  "  Island  Empire  "  of  the  Pacific. 


HYDERABAD. 


I 


TIIK    NIZAM  S    PALACE. 


N  the  veiy  heart  of  India  lies  an  extensive  realm  subject  to 
the  English  power,  lait  known  as  Hyderabad  or  Haidardbtid 
—  "  the  territory  of  the  Nizam."  It  is  as  large  as  New 
England,  has  a  population  of  fifty-five  millions,  a  standing  army 
of  three  hundred  thousand,  is  ruled  over  by  a  native  piince 
known  as  the  Nizam,  and  pfiys  an  annual  tribute  of  three  and 
a  half  millions  of  dollars  to  the  British  crown. 

The  capital  city  has  the  same  name  as  the  province  — 
Hyderabad.  It  has  with  its  outlying  suburbs  a  population  of 
three  hundred  and  fifty-five  thousand.  It  is  a  walled  town, 
pierced  with  thirteen  gates  ;  it  is  strikingly  located  in  the  midst 
of  a  wild  and  picturesque  region  and  stands  seventeen  hundred 
feet  above  the  sea.     Of  all  places  in  India  it  is  the  most  turbulent  and  unsafe. 

The  general  architecture  of  the  city  is  not  inspiring.  The  palace  of  the  Nizam,  the  mosques 
and  the  British  residency  are  the  principal  buildings.  The  palace  is  vast  but  not  splendid. 
"  With  the  exception  of  a  few  public  buildings,  such  as  the  mosques  and  the  palaces  of  the 
nobles,"  says  Dr.  Hurst,  "there  is  little  of  real  architectural  merit.  Nearly  all  the  edifices  Avere 
erected  in  troublous  days.  Hence  the  substantial  character  of  all  the  massive  teak-wood  gates 
and  wickets,  over  which  are  quarters  for  a  guard  or  small  garrison.  Ever}^  now  and  then  we 
pass  a  spacious  bazaar.  The  best  of  these  are  the  Cloth  Bazaar,  a  handsome  row  of  buildings 
facing  an  ornamental  garden  containing  fountains  and  great  tanks,  and  the  Arms  Bazaar,  where 
one  can  see  old  and  new  armor  of  every  kind,  and  form  some  conception  of  the  bloody  work 
these  people  have  been  doing  these  two  centuries.  The  people  whom  we  pass  in  the  street 
present  the  most  warlike  appearance  of  any  civilians  whom  I  ever  saw." 

The  mixed  nature  of  the  population,  too,  is  very  striking.  Dr.  Hurst  tells  us  that  "  all  the 
ruder  nations  and  tribes  which  have  drifted  into  India  or  have  been  produced  on  the  soil  seem  to 
be  represented.  Here  is  a  semi-military  Arab  with  a  perfect  arsenal  of  weapons  in  his  kamarhaml 
(waistband).  An  Arab  chief  in  \\\s  pulki  is  escorted  b}-  a  surging  and  tumultuous  crowd  of  his 
retainers,  firing  off  muskets  and  shouting  out  the  wonderful  titles  of  their  august  master  as  they 
pass  along.  Next  comes  the  Seedee,  with  his  broad  black  negro  face,  who  is  more  fearful  to 
behold  than  an  Arab  villain.  The  Kohilla,  with  slow  and  dignified  step,  may  next  be  seen :  his 
huge  bell-mouthed  blunderbuss,  without  which  in  Hyderabad  he  is  never  seen,  is  as  distinguish- 
able as  himself.  The  Pathan.  the  Afghan,  the  Persian,  the  Bokharian,  the  Georgian,  the  Pai-see, 
the  Dekhanese,  the  Sikh,  and  the  Turk,  with  many  others,  may  be  seen  passing  along,  and  making 
way  for  our  magisterial  elephants.  We  now  reach  the  college  or  Char  Minar  (the  Hpuse  of  P'our 
^linarets).  It  is  the  heart  of  Hyderabad.  Four  streets  diverge  from  it.  Each  of  the  four 
minarets  is  one  hundred  and  eighty  feet  high.  Above  the  arches  are  a  couple  of  rooms,  used  as  a 
madrksa  and  masjid  (school  and  church).     No  one  is  allowed  to  ascend  either  of  the  minarets, 


102 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD. 


for  the}-  look  down  on  the  Nizam's  palace.  The 
Cliar  Minav  \va.s  elected  A.  D.  1591,  by  Moham- 
med Kuli  Kutub  Shah.  He  built  it  in  honor 
of  God"s  favorable  answer  to  the  prayers  of 
some  holy  men  in  a  day  of  a  fierce  pestilential 
scourge.  It  is  the  'scandal  point '  of  the  idle 
loiterei"s  of  Hydeiabad.  Writers  of  petitions 
and  lettei-s  are  squatted  around  on  the  steps, 
])lying  their  trade,  just  as  one  used  to  see  in 
gi-eat  abundance  in  the  Neapolitan  market-places. 
Near  by  is  tlie  .Mecca  Musjid.  This  mosque  is  a 
quadrangle  of  three  hundred  and  sixty  feet 
square.  Its  roof  is  supported  by  fifteen  arches. 
During  the  festivals  from  eight  ^o  ten  thousand 
worshipers  meet  under  the  two  huge  domes. 
Abdoola  Kutub  Shah  began  it.  and  the  con- 
queror  Aurungzili,  the  great    Mogul    Emperor, 

finished  it.     Within  the  mosque  many  of   the  princes  lie  buried.*' 

Four  miles  beyond  the  city  are   the  celebrated  fort  and  tombs  of  Golconda  —  palace   and 

treasure  house   of  the  ancient  kings  of  India  when  "  their  very  names  were  s3'mbols   of  heroism 

and  treasure  throughout  India." 


APrnoAci!   TO  THE  ciiAi;  .minar. 


MEXICO. 


No  one,"  says  Mr.  F.  Hopkinson  Smith,  "at  all  familiar  with  the  history  of  Mexico  can 
wander  about  the  streets  and  suburbs  of  its  principal  city  without  seeing  at  every  turn 
.some  evidence  of  the  vast  changes  which  have  maikcd  its  past,  and  which  have  made  its 
story  so  thrilling.  If  Prescott's  pleasing  fiction  be  true,  and  I  prefer  to  believe  it  rather  thiui  break 
the  gods  of  my  childhood,  true  also  is  the  great  plaza  of  the  cathedral  and  the  noble  edifice 
itself  with  splendid  facades  and  majestic  twin  towers,  the  hundreds  of  churches  about  which 
cluster  the  remains  of  convent,  monastery  and  hospital ;  the  wide  pesos,  the  tropical  gardens,  the 
moss-bearded  cypresses  four  centuries  old,  under  which  the  disheartened  Aztec  monarch  mourned 
the  loss  of  his  kingdom,  the  palaces  of  the  viceroys,  the  alamedas  and  their  fountains." 

Important  changes,  however,  so  Mr.  Smith  declares,  are  taking  place,  making  Mexico  a 
civilizing  infiuence  and  predicting  a  happier  future.  "The  monastery  of  San  Hiprtlito."  he  says, 
"  once  the  palace  of  Bucarele,  now  contains  a  printing-press.  The  convent  of  Nuestra  Senoi-a  de 
la  Concepcion  is  a  public  school.  The  church  of  San  Agustin  is  a  public  library,  and  through  the 
silent  arches  of  many  cloisters  and  through  many  a  secluded  convent  garden  run  broad  avenues 
iilled  with  the  gay  life  of  the  metropolis.  Moreover  to-day,  every  man,  be  he  pagan.  Christian  or 
Jew,  may  worship  his  particular  God  according  to  the  dictates  of  his  own  conscience,  in  any  form 
that  pleases  him." 

The  city  of  Mexico  is  now  a  well-built  handsome  town  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  thousand 
inhabitants.  It  is  situated  in  the  center  of  the  great  valley  of  Mexico  seventy-five  hundred  feet 
above  the  sea.  It  is  the  largest  and  finest  city  in  the  central  division  of  the  three  Americas-  It 
forms  a  square  extending  nearly  three  miles  in  each  direction  and  is  laid  out  witli  perfect  i-egular- 
ity,  all  its  six  hundred  streets  and  lanes  running  at  right  angles  north  to  south  and  east  to  west, 
embracing  within  its  walls  an  area  of  about  ten  square  miles. 

As  the  houses  are  low  —  not  over  one  or  two  stories  —  and  are  built  in  the  ample  Spanish 
fashion  the  extent  of  ground  covered  over  is  larger  than  in  cities  of  the  same  population  crowded 


GKEAT   CITIES    OF   TIIK    WOlM.D. 


103 


into  closer  quarters.  The  streets  are  wide  aiul  extend  beyond  the  limits  of  the  city  in  broad 
driveways,  with  a  promenade  at  the  side  shaded  with  fine  trees  and  bordered  with  stone  seats. 

The  city  has  numerous  substantial  public  bui]dinf,rs  cliief  among  which  is  the  cathedral  —  the 
lar^iest  and  most  sumptuous  church  in  xVmerica.  It  faces  the  north  side  of  Mexico's  great  central 
square,  tho  plaza  Mayor,  and  stands  upon  the  site  of  the  vast  Aztec  temple  of  Iluitzilopochtli. 

On  the  other  sides  of  the  (irand  Square  arc  the  National  Palace,  comprising  the  government 
ollices,  mint  and  prison,  the  National  Museum,  with  an  unrivaled  Aztec  collection  and  the 
Market-place. 

All  till-  main  thoroughfares  converge  on  this  Plaza  Mayor  which  cover.s  fourteen  aci'es  "and  is 
Ivautifully  laid  out  witli  trees,  walks,  garden  plats  and  fountains. 

The  National  picture  gallery  of  San  .Carlos  is  the  linest  art  collection  in  America,  the 
national  librar}-  of  San  Agustin  contains  over  one  hundred  thousand  volumes.  San  Francisco 
Street  is  the  leading  thoroughfare  and  is  rivaled  in  splendor  oidy  by  the  new  Cinco  de  Mayo 
Street  running  from  the  National  Theater  to  the  Cathedral.  Near  to  the  city  gates  are  the  hill  of 
('hapultepec  and  Molino  (tel  Key  —  names  famous  in  the  battle  annals  of  the  United  States. 

Mexico  is  awaking  from  lier  sleep  of  centui'ies  and  is  progressing  at  a  surprising  rate.  The 
population  has  grown  more  than  eighty  thousand  in  ten  yeai's.  Electric  lights,  American  con- 
veniences and  accommodations,  '"•  English  dog-carts  and  French  bonnets"  are  rapidly  modei-nizing 
it  and  it  is  to  have  shortly  the  largest  hotel  in  America.  But  even  progress  cannot  entirely 
destroy  its  picturesqueness.  "  Stroll  up  the  Paseo  de  la  Reforma  at  sundown  —  the  Cluunps 
Elys^es  of  Mexico,"  saj-s  ]\Ir.  Smith,  ••  and  watch  the  endless  pi-ocession  of  open  carriages  filled 
with  beautiful  women  with  film}-  mantillas  shading  tlicir  dark  eyes,  the  countless  riders  mounted 
on  spirited  horses,  witli  saddle  2)onnuels  hung  with  lasso  and  lariat ;  run  your  eye  along  the  side- 
walk thronged  with  people,  and  over  the  mounted  soldiers  in  intermittent  groups,  policing  the 
brilliant  pageant,  and  tell  me  if  anywhere  in  the  world  you  have  seen  so  rich  and  novel  a  sight." 


IX    T}IE   COURT   OK   THE  XATIOXAI.   MUSEUM. 


MANCHESTER. 


THIRTY-TWO  miles  east  from  Liver- 
pool in  the  southeast  corner  of  Lan- 
cashire, lies  the  greatest  cotton-spin- 
ning city  of  England,  in  fact  of  the  whole 
civilized  world.  Like  its  American  name- 
sake thj-ougli  the  evolution  of  its  manufactur- 
ing enterprise  it  has  developed  from  an  insig- 
nificant town  into  a  wealthy  and  populous 
city.  Like  Puck,  ALanchester  cottons  have, 
indeed,  put  a  girdle  round  the  world.  The 
Arab  Sheik  in  liis  tent  calls  his  attendant  to 
liis  side  whose  burnoose  is  twisted  of  Man- 
cliester  cotton; 'the  coolie  laboring  in  the 
•^  paddy  "  fields  of  India  wears  his  one  scanty 
garment  of  Manchester  weaving:  your  drago- 
man on  the  Nile  is  clad  in  the  same  fabric, 
and  the  crowd  of  uncomplaining  fellahin 
along  its  reed-bordei-ed  banks  cover  their 
l)ronzed  bodies  with  the  same  light  cotton 
cloth.  Even  the  savages  in  mid-Africa  whom 
Stanley  at  the  peril  of  his  life  encounters  are 
charmed  by  a  bit  of  the  gaudy  fabric.  Hardly 
less  .savage,  though  in  the  heai-t  of  England 
liei"self,  the  collier-girls  of  Lancashire,  who  })ly 
tlieir  black  art  in  the  midst  of  coal  dust  and 
L,Mime,  when  thej^  go  out  for  their  rare  Sun- 
day afternoon's  pleasuring  with  their  "  'Any," 
proudly  wear  the  Manchester  cottons,  in  reality 
indirectly  produced  bj-  them  —  for  to  the  coal- 
lields  of  the  environing  Lancashire  is  Man- 
chester's gi-eatness  due. 

Standing  for  the  most  jiart  on  a  level 
plain  with  a  little  rising  ground  to  the  nortli.  surrounded  ly  rivei-s  which  should  be  sources 
of  purity  and  brightness,  l)ut  wliicli  one  of  their  countrymen  pronounces  to  l)e  "unspeakably 
filthy,"  tlie  two  busy  sister-towns  of  Manchester  and  Salford  are  separated  only  by  the  meandering 
Irwell,  which  is  on  an  average  less  than  one  Imndred  feet  wide.  Manchester  herself  on  the  left 
bank  is  drained  by  the  Medlock  and  the  Irk  ;  their  stagnant  waters,  black  with  mill-refuse,  add 
but  little  to  the  beaut)-  of  the  city,  while  the  Tib,  a  smaller  stream  which  flows  through  tlie 
town,  is  entirelj'  overaiched  and  covered  by  streets  and  warehouses. 

Still,  Manchester,  although  a  manufacturing  city,  is^  not  as  unpicturesque  as  the  sentimental 
tourist  might  imagine.  If  we  emerge  from  the  London  Road  station  around  which  cluster 
most  of  the  fine  hotels,  such  as  the  "  Queen.s,"  and  the  "Victoria,"  as  we  leisurely  stroll  up 
Piccadilly,  one  of  the  finest  streets,  which,  at.  its  upper  end,  opens  into  one  of  those  parks  for 
which  Manchester  is  justly  famous,  we  shall  see  one  of  the  provisions  made  to  aid  the  worth}'^ 
po(n-.  Here,  in  its  beautiful  giounds.  rises  tlie  stately  qxiadrangle  of  the  Royal  Infirmary  —  one 
wing  of  which  is  sacred  to  the  memory  of  that  sweetest  of  all  singers.  Jenny  Lind.  whose  heart 
Avas  as  tender  as  her  voice.  In  this  smoky  city  she  gave  two  concerts  to  help  the  poor  and  sick  ; 
from  the  proceeds  one  wing  was  elected,  and  the  twenty  thousand  ]iatients  who  are  annually 
treated  here  have,  indeed,  good  reason  to  rise  up  and  call  her  blessed. 

BevcMid  Piccadillv,  continuinof  its  line,  lies  the  handsome  Market  Street,  the  Broadwav  of 
Miinrliester.  full  of  l)rilliant  sliops.  tlieir  plate-glass  windows  iined  witli  finery.     Here  are  displa\-ed 

104 


IN    IIIK  .s.Miniv. 


GREAT  CITIES   OF  THE   WOULD.  1()5 

not  only  heautifnl  cotton  (roods,  hut  rich  silks  and  worsted  materials  which  Manchester  also  turns 
fortii  from  her  thousands  of  looms  and  spindles.  Hirley's  Cotton  Spinning  Mills  at  Choilton  and 
Dewhui-st's  Mills  in  Salfoi'd  with  their  great  chimneys  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  high  display 
many  of  their  goods  liere,  and  permission  is  courteously  granted  hy  the  heads  of  the  firms  to 
inspect  their  factories.  These  vast,  hives  swarm  with  husy  workers:  in  the  Atlas  Machine  Sho{)S 
alone  frequently  two  thousand  men  are  employed. 

The  Assize  Courts  and  the  New  Town  Hall,  although  modern,  are  two  noble  Gothic  piles. 
The  latter  with  its  splendid  clock-tower  two  hundred  and  eighty-six  feet  high  and  its  carillon  of 
bells  cost  upward  of  five  millions  of  dollars.  About  a  mile  and  a  quarter  beyond  the  Town  Hall, 
rises  the  handsome  Gothic  edifice  of  Owens  College.  Thi.s  college  with  twelve  hundred  students 
and  forty  professors  now  forms  an  integral  part  of  Victoria  University,  which,  incorpoiated  by 
Royal  Charter  in  1880,  has  its  head  in  Manchester  —  its  other  two  members  being  Liverpool 
I'nivei'sity  and  Yorkshire  College. 

Cobden,  Sir  Robert  Peel  and  other  worthies  connected  with  the  city's  history,  are  immortal- 
ized in  statues  in  Peel  Park  in  the  borough  of  Salford,  which  contains  also  a  Museum,  Art 
Gallery  and  Free  Library.  The  5208  acres  of  Salford  contain  little  more  that  is  of  public 
interest,  the  greater  part  of  it  consisting  of  ^nonotonous  streets  of  waiehouses  and  dreary  artisans' 
dwellings. 

One  little  spot  of  brightness,  one  little  bit  of  color  and  poetry  amidst  the  hard,  prosaic,  black 
facts  of  every-day  life  is  found  in  the  little,  wild  bit  of  mooiland,  Kersal  Moor,  only  twenty-one 
acres  in  extent,  which  the  corporation  of  Salford  guard  tenderly  as  the  apple  of  their  eye.  Not 
distant  far  from  the  smoke  and  grime  of  the  great  city,  this  little  bit  of  moorland  buds  and 
blossoms  in  primroses,  cowslips,  daffodils,  and  rarer  wild  flowers  of  all  kinds  :  within  its  limited 
area  one-eighth  of  all  the  English  flowering  plants  have  been  gathered 

A  city  that  in  the  midst  of  its  busy  life  of  five  hundred  and  seventy  thousand  souls  can  turn  aside 
from  its  work  to  protect  the  tender  life  of  its  fragile  wild-flowers,  must  certainly-  give  equal  care 
to  the  young  lives  growing  up  among  its  bricks  and  mortar.  In  1840  the  death-rate  of  Manchester 
was  34.3,  in  1881,  23.3  per  thousand  :  less,  with  all  its  manufactures,  than  that  of  New  York  or 
Brooklyn.  Although  her  air  is  still  laden  with  the  products  of  combustion  of  coal,  and  there  is 
ample  room  for  further  improvement,  these  figures  are  full  of  suggestions  of  the  better  time 
coming  when  working  men  and  working  women  shall  receive  their  due,  not  only  of  increased 
wages  but  longer  life. 


SAN   FRANCISCO. 

SAN  FRANCISCO  is  the  biggest  and  most  precious  nugget  that  has  come  out  of  the  Cali- 
fornia mines.  Almost  literally  it  is  their  product.  Before  the  discovery  of  gold  in  1848, 
it  was  a  mere  village  whose  nucleus  was  the  little  Catholic  mission,  Dolores,  founded  by 
two  Franciscan  monks  in  the  year  of  the  declaration  of  our  national  independence.  In  less  than 
two  yeai-s  after  the  cry  "  Gold  I  "  had  startled  the  world  like  a  tocsin  —  and  two  years  is  hardly  a 
moment  in  histoiical  reckoning  —  it  had  been  transformed  by  the  alchemy  of  destiny  into  a  city 
of  twenty-five  thousand  people.  Bret  Harte  in  his  stories  of  "■  Roaring  Camp  '  and  "  Red  Gulch  " 
has  familiarized  and  in  a  manner  endeared  to  us  the  life  of  the  raining  camps  of  "40.  The  San 
Francisco  ot  those  days  was  the  rendezvous  of  all  the  mining  camps  and  so  a  little  more  of  a  mining 
camp  than  any  one  of  them. 

But  San  Francisco  laid  aside,  long  ago,  everything  savoring  of  the  mniing  camp.  It  is  a 
substantial,  luxurious  city.  The  City  Hall,  the  Palace  Hotel  and  the  Califoriua  Bank,  would  do 
honor  to  an}-  city  in  the  world.     Still  it  continues  picturesque  beyond  most  other  American  cities. 


106 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE    WORLD. 


BIKD  .S-EYE   VIEW    OF   SAX  ERANTISCO. 


for  here  Occident 
meets  Orient,  and 
Europe  meets  both. 
Mexicans,  Spaniards, 
Frenchmen,  Italians, 
Germans,  Scandina- 
vians, Russians  and 
Chinese  are  so  nu- 
merous as  to  make 
all  tlie  more  crowded 
thoroughfares  appear 
like  streets  of  some 
gigantic  world's  fair; 
and  China-town  —  a 
section  of  about  one- 
quarter  square  mile 
area  containing  from 
twenty-live  thousand 

to  thiity  thousand  inhabitants  —  is  a  veritable  bit  of  Asia.  True,  the  liouses  there  are  all  of 
American  construction  —  for  it  was  once  the  seat  of  fashion  — Ijut  they  are  so  discolored  .as  to  look 
very  old,  and  so  completely  covered  with  wart-like  side  balconies  and  roof  excrescences  and  so 
gloriously  illuminated  with  red  and  gilt  signs,  lanterns  and  bainiers,  and  so  thoroughly  i)ermeate<l 
with  that  indescribable  Chinese  smell,  in  which  the  expeit  smeller  detects  traces  of  opium,  tobacco, 
cooking  oil,  cheese  and  si)oiled  fish,  that  they  give  no  hint  of  their  former  occupancy.  Loose 
coats,  pig-tails,  felt  slippers  and  almond-eyes  flit  bewilderingly  but  noiselessly  tlnough  the  streets 
and  alleyways  ;  cobblers,  tinkers,  barbers,  fruit'-sellers,  letter-writers,  charm-readei-s,  fortune-tellers 
and  medicine- men  ply  their  trades  upon  the  sidewalks  and  street-corners ;  gossips,  male  and 
female,  throiig  the  restaurants,  where  they  dexterously  spear  rice  with  chopsticks,  sip  saki  (rice 
brandy)  mlncingly,  and  chatter,  over  tea  served  in  cups  of  the  "fillee  often,  payee  often"  variety, 
of  the  glories  of  the  "  Flowery  Kingdom  "  they  have  left  in  quest  of  fortune. 

In  San  Francisco,  as  elsewhere,  wealth  takes  to  the  hills,  and  there  is  not  a  large  city  in  the 
country,  Cincinnati  excepted,  where  it  has  an  amphn-  oppoitunity  to  indulge  its  hill-climbing 
fauc}-.  High  up,  away  from  the  bustle  of  the  business-cjuarter,  and  in  full  view  of  the  shining 
bay  and  Mounts  Diablo  and  Tamalpais.  the  railroad  and  bonanza  kings  Jiave  erected  their  gieat 
wooden  palaces.  Telegraph  Hill,  Nob  Hill,  liussian  Hill  and  l^one  Mountain,  about  whose  base 
all  the  cemeteries  are  grouped  are  as  much  as  three  hundred  feet  high.  The  occupancy  of 
these  hills  was  the  necessity  that  was  the  mother  of  the  invention  of  the  cable  roads  of  which  the 
Chinaman  said,  "  Melican  man's  wagon  no  pushee,  no  pullee,  all  same  go  toj)-sidi'  hill  like  flashee." 
Mining  still  plays  an  important  ])art  in  San  Francisco  business  life,  but  mining  is  no  longer 
king.        Manufactur-  ,3=^  _*  .  _ 

ing  is  assiiming  great 
importance.  The  to- 
tal manufactured  pro- 
duct for  1887  was 
888.730,000.  To  this 
total,  canneries,  sugar 
retinerics,  woolen  and 
flour  mills,  glass,  wire, 
lie  ivy  machinery  and 
iron  ship  works  made 
tlie  largest  contribu- 
tions. 

Commerce    may 
be    proportionately  the  city  hall. 


GREAT   CITIES    OF   THE    WORLD.  107 

.somewliat  less  protitabk'  tlian  it  was  when  "■corralling  the  market"'  was  so  easy  tliat  two  voyages 
from  the  Atlantic  States  would  more  than  pay  for  the  ship  that  bore  the  ventures ;  but  it  is 
infinitely  greater  in  bulk  ami  range  and  rests  on  a  much  more  rational  l)asis.  Already  San  Fran- 
cisco stands  third  on  the  federal  revenue  list.  China  trade,  it  is  true,  has  not  developed  as  it  was 
supposed  it  would.  The  Chinese  are  opposed  by  nature  to  ever}'  innovation.  They  prefer  rice  to 
flour,  even  when  flour  is  cheaper.  Still,  fifty  steamers  run  already  on  regular  lines  to  China,  Japan, 
the  Sandwich  Islands  and  South  America.  She  cannot  cscaijc  cf)mmcrciitl  gr(;atness  if  she  will. 
She  is  the  metropolis  of  a  State  almost  two  and  one  half  times  a's  large  as  all  New  England,  a 
State  that  can  produce  in  limitless  quantities  the  three  Ws  that  make  wealth  —  wheat,  wine  and 
wool  —  and  a  score  of  connnerciall}'  valuable  temperate  and  semi-tropical  fruits.  Iler  bai-boi*  is  the 
only  one  on  the  Pacific  Coast  from  Astoria,  seven  hundiud  miles  northward,  to  San  Diego,  six 
hundred  miles  southward,  a  distance  as  great  as  from  Elaine  to  Florida  on  the  Atlantic  coast 
where  there  are  at  least  ten  superior  harbors. 

A  few  years  ago,  William  II.  Seward  said:  "The  Pacific  Ocean  will  be  the  scene  of  man's 
greatest  achievements."  His  prophecy  may  wait  more  than  one  generation  for  its  fulfilment,  but 
when  that  fulfilment  shall  come,  as  come  it  must,  it  will  come  by  the  way  of  tlie  Golden  Gate. 


LEEDS. 


WITH  the  exception  of  London,  Liverpool,  Manchester  and  Birmingham,  Leeds  is  the 
largest  city  in  England.  One  hundred  and  eighty-five  miles  from  London,  two  hun- 
dred and  twenty-five  from  Edinburgh,  in  the  center  of  the  West  Riding  of  England's 
largest  county,  in  the  pleasant  valley  watered  by  the  Aire,  surrounded  b}'  rich  coal  and  iron  dis- 
tricts, its  commercial  position  both  as  regards  railways  and  canals  is  central  and  commanding. 

Small  wonder  is  it  that  its  manufacturing  interests  are  various  and  important ;  the  thousands 
of  sheep  that  graze  on  the  Yorkshire  wolds  in  the  rich  agricultural  country  north  of  Leeds  send 
their  fleeces  to  her  suburban  villages  to  be  spun  into  yarn  and  w'oven  into  cloth ;  then  Leeds  her- 
self seizes  the  unfinished  cloth  and,  with  her  millions  of  bur-headed  teasels,  or  their  wire  substi- 
tutes of  the  present  day,  raises  the  nap  and  finishes  or  dresses  the  cloth. 

Little  enough,  it  seems,  this  final,  finishing  touch  given  to  the  rich  English  cloths  manufactured 
in  the  little  villages  surrounding  Leeds  and  brought  here  to  be  dressed ;  yet  this  seemingly  insig- 
nificant industry  has  laid  the  foundations  of  the  wealth  of  this  city  of  3.51.210  iidiabitants. 

Several  times  her  merchants  have  tried  to  introduce  the  spinning  and  the  weaving  as  well, 
and  William  Hirst,  one  of  her  foremost  manufacturers,  did  succeed,  but  oidy  for  a  short  time ;  the 
busy  factories  on  both  banks  of  the  Aire  soon  resumed  their  old  work.  Worsted  3-arn  spinning 
and  the  manufacture  of  woi'sted  goods  as  w^ell  has  died  out  in  Leeds  ;  Bradford,  a  bustling  city  of 
about  two  hundred  thousand  inhabitants,  nine  miles  west  of  Leeds,  neaier  the  moors  and  hills,  is 
now  the  headquarters  of  the  worsted  industry.  It  lies  within  a  populous  well-watered  valley,  rich 
with  iron,  coal  and  stone  and,  like  its  neighbor  Leeds,  has  been  a  manufacturing  city  for  centuries. 
In  the  time  of  the  Plantagenets,  woolen  cloth  w-as  made  in  Bradford,  and  at  the  end  of  the  seven- 
teenth century  the  worsted  trade  was  introduced  and  a  Price  Hall  erected  in  1773.  In  1798 
Bradford  built  her  first  mill:  after  the  introduction  of  machinciy  her  progress  was  lapid  :  in  1820 
she  had  but  twenty  mills  :  to-day  she  has  between  two  and  three  hundred.  Herein  the  thirties 
Sir  Titus  Salt  developed  the  alpaca  manufacture  and  the  mohair  came  a  little  later;  twelve  miles 
from  Leeds,  but  only  a  short  distance  from  Bradford,  lies  his  model  village  of  Saltaire. 

Here  the  millionaire  manufacturer  has  made  a  noble  effort  to  place  factory  life  on  a  higher  foot- 
ing and  make  life  better  worth  living  for  his  operatives;  his  separate  homes  for  his  working  people 
are  bright  and  clean  and  healthy,  and  halls  are  provided  in  which  to  give  them  music  and  other 
means  nf  culture  and  enjoyment.     Like  Pullman,  the  experiment  as  a  whole  has  been  a  success  ; 


108 


GREAT  CITIES   OF   THE  WORLD. 


it  has  diminished  the  Socialistic  tendency  and  the  readiness  to  strike  on  slight  provocation; 
although  the  stiff-necked  independence  of  the  English  working-classes  has  put  some  difficulties  in 
the  way. 

Outside  of  its  manufactories,  its  great  cloth  halls,  its  immense  linen  factor}-  owned  by 
Marshall  &  Co.,  where  in  one  vast  room,  four  hundred  by  two  hundred  and  twenty  feet,  the 
machinery  whirs  with  its  deafening  buzz  turned  by  two  engines  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  horse 
power,  or  the  Fowler  Steam  Plow  factory,  the  machine  works  founded  by  Sir  Peter  Fairbairn.  or 
the  vast  ready-made  clothing  establishment  where  John  Barrows'  Sons  witli  their  thousands  of 
employees  turn  out  one  thousand  and  two  hundred  suits  of  ready-made  clothing  a  day,  there  is 
in  Leeds  little  to  interest  the  tourist.  Here  he  can,  indeed,  clothe  him  from  head  to  foot  if 
necessary  ;  for  the  town  is  the  chief  center  of  the  cap  manufactory  and  her  boot  and  shoe  trade  is 
also  very  large ;  her  army  shoes,  in  which  she  excels,  are  made  in  workshops  which  are  the  largest 
of  their  kind  in  the  United  Kingdom. 

The  Briggate  is  the  only  really  handsome  street  in  Leeds ;  it  is  a  singularly  uninteresting 
looking  town  of  heavy  old  brick,  although  it  has  some  fine  public  buildings.  Queen  Victoria 
opened  the  Town  Hall  in  1858;  the  handsome  building  cost  eight  hundred  thousand  dollars:  the 
Royal  Exchange  in  Perpendicular  Gothic  is  also  noteworth}-. 

Her  thirty  thousand  school  children  are  taken  care  of  in  forty-seven  schools  under  Leeds 
School  Board ;  besides  these  there  are  forty-eight  other  schools,  many  of  them  Wesleyan.  In 
Yorkshire  College,  with  its  new  building  costing  five  hundred  thousand  dollars,  five  liundred 
students  are  annualh'  instructed  in  tlie  arts  and  sciences  that  pertain  to  manufactures.  The  New 
Public  Library  contains  moie  than  one  hundred  thousand  volumes,  and  the  Leeds  Old  Library, 
founded  by  the  Unitarian  minister  and  chemist,  Priestley,  contains  nearly  as  many. 


CINCINNATI. 


I 


F  "a  city  that  is  set  on  a  hill  cannot  be  hid"  then  does  Cin- 
cinnati clearly  i)ossess  an  immense  advantage  in  the  attain- 
ment  of   conspicuousness   over   most  other  great  cities  of 
the  world. 

Boston,  the '' Athens  of  America"  (once  ycleped  Trimoun- 
taine)  has  but  three  hills ;  Old  Athens  had  but  four,  though 
one  of  them  was  the  world-famous  Acropolis,  and  Rome  when 
"  Mistress  of  the  World  "  had  but  seven.  Cincinnati  is  all  hills. 
And  when  Cincinnati  says  hills,  she  means  hills.  Her  heights 
are  no  tame  affairs.  They  are  ragged,  jagged,  precipiced  acropo- 
lises four  and  five  hundred  feet  high  (the  Athenian  was  only  one 
hundred  and  fifty  feet),  always  cool  and  breezy  and  affording 
magnificent  outlooks  over  Ohio  —  the  State,  tlie  river  and  the 
Kentucky  Heights.  To  be  sure  manufactuiing  and  wholesaling 
and  a  large  share  of  the  retailing^aie  done  "  in  the  valleys  "  ;  but 
even  these  are  "  valleys "  only  foi-  the  sake  of  convenience. 
They  are  in  reality  two  plateaus  of  sixty  and  one  hundred  and 
twelve  feet  respectively ;  very  considerable  hilk  they  would  be  in 
any  other  environment.  To  the  most  lofty  of  these  wooded  hills  Cincinnati  owes  the  pictur- 
esqueness  which  so  completely  distinguishes  it  from  every  other  American  city,  by  making  it  —  if 
the  paradox  may  be  allowed — a  city  of  suburbs.  Once  considere<l  practically  worthless,  because 
almost  inaccessible,  their  beauty  has  been  linked  with  utility  by  inclined-plane  steam  lailways  and 


GREAT  CITIES   OF  THE   WORLD. 


109 


THK   TYI,KR-DA\^DSON   FOUNTAIN,    IN   FOUNTAIN   SQU.UIE. 


novel  elevators  that  transport  horse-cars  bodily  from  heiglit  to  height,  hoisting  horses  and  all  so 
easily  they  seem  like  ferry-boats  of  the  air. 

Charles  Dickens,  after  his  first  visit  to  this  countiy,  was  enthusiastic  over  Cincinnati, 
and  everybody  knows  that,  so  far  as  things  American  were  concerned,  Dickens  was  not  pione 
to  tiattery.  In  the  nature  of  the  case,  there  have  been  great  changes  since,  but  Cincinnati  has 
never  lost  its  prestige  as  par  excellence  the  American  city  of  private  residences.  Airy  villas 
and  castellated  mansions  wrought  out  of  the  beautiful  blue  limestone  which  its  own  hill-quarries 
fiu'uisli  in  inexhaustible  supply,  bird-haunted  gardens  and  manorial  parks  in  their  fine  setting  of 
irregular  hills  would  soon  deceive  one  into  believing  that  Cincinnati  was  not  a  city  at  all,  l)ut  for 
the  softened  roar  of  distant  traffic,  an  occasional  public  park  or  penal  or  charitable  institution,  tell- 
tales of  the  complexity  of  city  civilization,  and  the  numerous  palatial  hotels,  turreted.  pavilioned, 
esplanaded,  with  their  revelations  of  the  gayety  and  good  living  of  urban  as  distinguished  fmni 
rural  communities. 

Dickens  found  Cincinnati  society  intelligent.  He  would  still  find  it  so.  It  is  a  significant 
fact  that  in  1<S87,  the  proportion  of  fiction  drawn  from  the  Public  Library  was  only  fifty-one  per 
cent,  of  the  whole.  To  the  cultivated  stranger  traveling  through  the  West,  there  must  indeed  be 
something  positively  refreshing  alxiut  a  city  such  as  Cincinnati,  that  is  not  a  maelstrom  of  materi- 
alism and  that  prizes  education  for  itself  more  than  for  its  political  and  financial  possibilities, 
whose  refinement  is  congenital  rather  than  accidental,  whose  culture  came  before  wealth  and  ha.s 
developed  with  wealth  (the  reverse  of  the  usual  American  order),  whose  gentlemanly  and  scholarly 
instincts  render  unnecessary  the  poor  and  ineffectual  disguise  of  a  gentlemanly  and  scholarly  gloss. 
While  this  intelligence  has  made  creditable  progress  in  all  those  branches  to  which  intelligence 
commonly  devotes  itself,  in  two  of  the  tine  arts  it  has  achieved  a  specially  noteworthy  succe.'?s. 
These  are  music  and  ceramics.     The  Rookwood  Pottery  is  thoroughly  American  in  its  subjects 


110 


GREAT   CITIES    OF   THE    WORLD. 


and  treatment.  Origiualitj  and  independence  are  its  salient  qualities ;  at  the  same  time  it  is 
thoroughly  artistic.  Years  of  discouraging  exj^erimentation  were  necessary  to  this  result,  but  the 
ware  has  come  at  last  to  be  so  dearly  and  so  widely  prized,  that  labors,  which  had  no  end  in  view 
but  high  art,  seem  likely  to  prove  that  in  the  long  run  high  art  pays.  Limoges  ware  still  retains 
its  prestige  in  the  world  of  ceramics,  yet'  perhaps  the  day  is  not  far  distant  when  it  will  have  an 
American  rival.  Cincinnati  is  justified  in  her  local  pride  in  Rookwood.  It  is  a  sufficient  reason 
for  national  pride. 

Perhaps  the  most  palpa1>le  manifestation  of  Cincinnati's  musical  life  is  her  Music  Hall  in 
which  the  famous  annual  festivals  are  held.  It  has  a  capacity  of  seven  thousand  and  the  best 
acoustic  properties  of  any  large  hall  in  this  country,  the  plain  hardwood  finish  having  become 
almost  as  sympathetically  vibrant  as  the  walls  of  a  violin,  and  sure  to  improve  with  age.  Its 
organ  case,  by  the  way,  was  carved  by  the  ladies  of  Cincinnati,  wood  carving  being  another  art  in 
which  Cincinnatians  do  superior  work.  The  demand  of  the  city  for  skilled  musicians  is  supplied 
to  a  considerable  degree  by  the  Cincinnati  College  of  Music,  an  institution  that  has  had  much  to 
do  with  the  guiding  of  her  musical  taste  into  correct  channels.  It  was  founded  in  1878  by  private 
citizens,  is  practically  free  to  all  who  cannot  afford  to  pay  tuition  and  has  an  average  attendance  of 
six  hundred.  It  is  a  worthy  monument  to  the  exceptional  liberality  and  public  spirit  of  Cinciiniati's 
private  citizens.  The  Public  Museum  is  another,  the  Art  School  another,  the  famous  Tyler- 
Davidson  fountain,  the  gift  of  Henry  Probasco,  in  Fountain  Square  still  another. 

In  regard  to  this  last  it  is  related  that  when  the  King  of  Bavaria  heard  that  Mr.  Probasco,  a 
private  citizen,  had  erected  in  Cincinnati  a  one  hundred  and  twenty  thousand  dollar  fountain,  and 
presented  it  to  the  city,  he  exclaimed:  "  Before  such  a  citizen  any  king  may  doff  his  hat."  Well, 
no  wonder  ! 

Cincinu/ati  was  settled  near  the  close  of  1788  by  pioneers  from  Kentucky  and  New  Jer.sey. 
Its  history  therefore  covers  little  more  than  a  man's  life  sometimes  spans.  Thus  William  Moody, 
the  first  white  child  l)orn  at  the  settlement  (March  17,  1790),  survived  until  1879,  and  there  are 
not  a  few  Cincinnatians  of  to-day  who  remember  the  Indians.  Since  those  Indian  days,  which 
were  surely  exciting  enough,  the  cit}-  has  never  been  in  real  jeopardy  but  once,  and  that  very  lately. 
Between  1825  and  1830,  immigration  from  New  England  set  in  and  a  little  later  from  Virginia, 
important  because  it  meant  an  assimilation  of  some  of  the  best  blood  of  two  veiy  different  sections. 
England  caught  the  Cincinnati  fever  alwut  183o,  and  sent  over  a  numl)er  of  emigrants,  among 
them   Mrs.   TroUope,  mother  of  Anthony  Trollope,  the   novelist.     Then  came  a  perfect  flood  of 


1 


THE   OHIO   nrVER,    OPPOSITE   MOrXT    AITirRX. 


GREAT  CITIES   OF   THE   WOULD.  Ill 

Geniiaii  iiiiiiiinriints,  so  iiiiUi^-of  them  that  to-day  ahoiit  one  liflh  ol  llie  whole  e>>Liiiiiilcil  [jopiilalioii 
of  two  liuudrecl  ami  eighty  thousaml  are  native  (iermans,  a  htiger  proportion  prol>alily  than  is  to 
he  found  in  any  other  great  city  of  the  United  States.  "Looked  at  one  way,"  says  Charles  Dudley 
Warner,  "the  real  (^ineinnati  is  a  (ierman  city,  and  you  can  only  study  its  true  character  'over 
the  Rliine,'  and  see  it  successfully  through  the  bottom  of  an  upturned  heer  glass."  "  Over  the 
Ilhine,"  it  must  be  understood,  is  an  almost  exclusively  German  district,  Ijetween  the  old  Miami 
C'anal  and  the  hills,  where  the  continental  Sunday  prevails,  and  where  the  theaters,  concert  halls, 
l.id}'  orchestras,  shooting  galleries  and  beer  gardens  fairly  out-German  German}-.  It  goes 
without  saying  that  the  German  portion  has  more  or  less  Germanized  the  whole  city-oiganism.  In 
some  particnlars  this  may  be  unfortunate,  but  hugely  considered  the  moditication  has  probably 
been  in  the  direction  of  more  vigorous  health.  As  some  one  lias  happily  put  it,  "the  German 
element  is  at  once  conservative  as  to  improvements,  and  liberalizing  in  theology  and  life."  To  it 
Cincinnati  is  doubtless  indebted  for  much  of  her  stability  and  for  nearly  all  of  liei'  musical  growth 
and  prestige. 

In  18()2,  the  city  was  menaced  by  the  confederate  forces,  but  was  not  attacked.  Floods  have 
been  frequent  of  late  years.  In  1876,  the  river  rose  forty-eight  feet  in  forty -eight  hours  ;  in  1882, 
it  rose  fifty  feet ;  in  1883,  sixty-eight  feet,  and  in  1884,  over  seventy  feet.  Much  property  was 
destroyed  by  each  of  these  overflows. 

Her  manufactures  are  many  and  inci'easing.  The  manufactured  product  of  1880  was 
••1148,957,280,  of  1886,  !|190,722,153.     Clearings  and  banking  capital  have  also  increased. 

Every  western ''city  has  a  specialty.  Once  Cincinnati's  was  pork,  now  it  is  soap.  It  is  the 
first  soap  city  and  has  the  largest  soap  factory  in  the  world,  in  Avhich  an  interesting  and  so  far 
highly  successful  experiment  in  profit-sharing  is  Imng  carried  on.  It  is  also  the  fii"st  glycerine  city 
in  the  world,  and  the  first  burial-case  city  in  this  country.  Even  Egypt  and  Turkey  send  to 
Cincinnati  for  hearses.  It  is  almost  equall}-  famous  for  its  carriages,  white  lead  and  paint  works, 
leaf  tobacco  and  malt  and  distilled  liquors.  For  a  long  time,  the  first  district  of  Ohio  in  which 
Cincinnati  is  situated  paid  more  internal  revenue  to  the  L'nited  States  government  than  an}-  other 
in  the  country. 

Judge  Hoadley,  in  an  eloquent  speech  delivered  a  few  years  ago,  spoke  of  Cincinnati  as 
destined  to  become  "  the  Edinburgh  of  a  new  Scotland,  the  Boston  of  a  new  New  England,  the 
Paris  of  a  new  France."  It  seems  that  there  must  have  been  something  very  pat  about  the 
i-eference  to  Paris,  inasmuch  as  it  was  taken  up  here  and  there  and  passed  along  nntil  Cincinnati 
became  pretty  generally  known  as  the  "Paris  of  America."  Though  nicknamed  "  Porkopolis," 
Cincinnati  really  rates  seventh  in  the  Ameiican  Hog  "  Statistics "  —  Chicago,  Kansas  City, 
Boston,  Omaha,  St.  Louis  and  Indianapolis  all  outranking  her  in  tlie  number  of  hogs  marketed. 
But  among  all  her  names,  there  is  none  that  she  has  worn  so  long  and  so  gracefully,  none  that 
seems  so  appropriate  as  "  Queen  City." 

Mere  bigness  does  not  constitute  queenship.  It  is  written  of  Queen  Esther  that  she  was 
"  fair  and  beautiful,"  and  "  obtained  favor  in  the  sight  of  all  them  that  looked  upon  her."  Such 
is  Cincinnati.     Such  as  hers  is  Cincinnati's  claim  to  queenliuess.      Vive  la  reine  ! 


HAMBURG. 


HAMBURG  is  one  of  the  most 
remarkable  cities  of  the 
German  Empire  and  the 
first  of  all  the  seats  of  commerce 
on  the  continent ;  London,  Liver- 
pool and  Glasgow  excepted,  it  is 
the  most  important  commercial 
town  in  Europe.  ^Vnd  yet  Ham- 
burg is  still  somewhat  disappoint- 
ing to  the  tourist  who  seeks  not 
only  for  life  but  picturesqueness. 

Forced  by  the  iron  policy  of 
Bismarck  to  give  up  its  ancient 
privilege  of  being  a  free  port,  Ham- 
burg A\ithin  the  last  te)i  years  has 
wonderfully  improved  its  harbor 
facilities.  Over  forty  million  dol- 
lars have  beeii  spent  in  widening 
canals,  building  great  docks  and 
quays,  and  erecting  fine  warehouses 
in  which  to  store  the  rich  goods 
which  come  from  all  over  the  world. 
Of  this  expenditure  the  Imperial 
government  paid  one  fourth. 

With  an  actual  population  of 
three  hundred  and  i\\(i  thousand, 
with  her  suburbs  of  Altona,  Wands- 
beck  and  other  adjoining  points, 
Hamburg  has  a  total  population  of 
nearly  five  hundied  and  fifty  thou- 
sand. The  chief  point  of  interest 
is  the  harbor — busy  and  jactur- 
esque.  Along  tlie  baidcs  of  the 
Elbe,  the  long  qua}-^  so  recently 
enlarged  and  extended  stretch  a 
distance  of  nearly  four  miles  ;  sev- 
eral great  hafens,  or  harbors,  run 
almost  into  the  heart  of  the  town, 
and  the  life-blood,  or  rather  water  of  the  numerous  Jlecte,  or  canals,  which  intersect  the  city,  is 
poured  into  these  basins.  Flat-bottomed  boats  convey  the  goods  from  the  magazines  and  ware- 
houses through  these  canals  to  the  Binnen  and  the  Baakcnhafen  ;  while  in  the  time  of  ice  and 
storm  the  great  sailing  vessels  lie  in  the  Nieder-hafen  along  the  north  bank  of  the  broad  lower 
Elbe,  which  lies  to  the  south  of  the  city. 

Though  the  quays  to  the  south  on  the  Elbe  are  picturesque  with  bustle  and  business,  undoubt- 
edly the  great  beauty  of  Hamburg  lies  around  the  Binnen-Alster,  or  Alster  Bassin,  and  its  environs. 
Here,  almost  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  this  beautiful  sheet  of  water,  upwards  of  a  mile  in  circum- 
ference, lies  surrounded  on  three  sides  by  broad  quays  planted  with  the  oaks  and  lindens  for  which 
Germany  is  famous.  The  Alte  and  Neue  Jungfern-stieg,  the  Broadway  and  Fifth  Avenue  of  Ham- 
burg, are  flanked  with  palatial  hotels  and  splendid  private  dwellings.  The  glass-covered  bazaar 
in  the  Alte  Jungfern-stieg  is  full  of  traffic  :  near  by  are  the  spacious  Alster  Arcades,  whose  shops 

112 


A  iia:miu'ug  market-woman. 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE    WOULD. 


n:i 


are  the  delight  of  the  Ilainbuig  hiiUes,  while  tlie  beiiutifiil  promenade  ot  the   Loinlmrd's  bridge 
separates  this  inner  basin  from  its  larger  but  less  comely  brother,  the  Aussen  Alster. 

The  sights  of  Hambui-g,  besides  the  harbor,  are  the  Exehange,  wliere  live  thousand  merchants 
daily  congregate  between  1  and  3  v.  M.,  and  the  church  of  St.  Nicholas,  with  its  four  hundred 
and  seventy-three  feet  of  tower,  rivalled  oidy  l)y  the  cathedrals  of  Cologne,  live  hundred  and 
eleven  feet,  and  St.  Ouen,  four  hundred  and  ninety-two  feet.  St.  Michael's  Church  has  a  tower 
rising  four  hiuidred  and  twenty-eight  feet,  ranking  the' tenth  liighcst  on  the  continent.  .M(jst  of 
the  old  ecclesiastical  landmarks,  however,  were  unfortunately  swept  away  by  the  blaze  of  1842, 
and  there  are  few  interesting  secular  buildings,  although  the  Museum,  the  college  of  Surgeons  and 
the  Johanneum,  with  its  schools  and  splendid  library  of  three  hundred  thousand  volumes,  are  worthy 
of  note. 


BRESLAU. 


THE  tourist  in  lireslau  to-day  sees  a  cify  of  ]iearly  three  hundred  thousand  inhabitants.     It 
has  had  a  stirring  and  historic  past  and  is  now  the  thii'd  largest  city  in  Prussia,  lying  on 
both  sides  of  the  Oder.     To  reach  it  the  visitor  has  probably  taken  the  railway,  which  runs 
between  Berlin  and  ^'ienna,  Breslau  lying  one  hundred  and  ninety  miles  southwest  of  Berlin.     On 
the  site  of  the  ancient  fortitications,  he  can  enjoy  a  beautiful  promenade  on  the  broad,  shaded 


ON   THE   rnOMFNAPE. 


114  GREAT   CITIES    OF   THE   WORLD. 

boulevards.  Breslaivs  new  town  lies  on  the  left  bank  of  the  Oder,  but  the  old  town  across  the 
stream  and  the  five  suburl)s  which  are  connected  by  numerous  bridges,  contain  some  interesting 
landmarks. 

Perhaps  the  most  interesting  building  among  the  number  of  educational  institutions  for  which 
Breslau  is  noted  is  her  university.  It  is  a  lather  interesting  and  significant  fact  to  note  that 
there,  in  the  midst  of  this  bustling  commercial  city,  with  its  manufactures  of  linen,  woolen, 
cotton  and  silk,  carpets,  tools,  machinery,  with  its  four  great  annual  linen  fairs  which  last  eight 
days  and  bring  buyers  from  all  over  the  continent  —  in  this  city  which  is  the  greatest  woolen 
mart  in  Germany,  or  indeed  on  the  continent,  the  students  yet  have  time  to  cultivate  the 
liberal  arts. 

A  busy,  bustling  town,  active  with  commertc  and  life,  with  little  rememlnance  of  the  past. 
Breslau  is  typical  of  nineteenth  century  progress.  Tlie  traveler  who  go^s  there  expecting  to  find 
a  quaint,  picturesque  town  like  Nuremberg  or  Prague,  will  leave  disappointed,  but  the  American 
who  goes  abroad  to  compare  German  progress  with  the  growth  of  his  own  wondeiful  western 
world,  will  find  much  of  interest  in  this  city,  whose  progress  has  kept  pace  with  Prussia's 
wonderful  advance  and  whose  population  since  1850  has  tripled. 


MILAN. 


IT  seems  impossible  to  imagine  a  gayer,  more  laughing,  more  attractive  city  than  is  Milan  —  tliis 
city  on  the  plains  of  Lombard}-,  with  the  exception  of  Naples  and  Rome,  the  largest  city  of 

Itah'.  The  Corso  Yittorio  Emanuel  is  the  fashionable  street  of  Milan.  It  is  attractive  and 
picturesque,  thronged  with  a  bustling  crowd  of  liandsome  black-eyed  gentlemen,  and  the  soft-ej'ed 
brunette  Italian  women,  with  graceful  Spanish  lace  mantillas  or  veils  draped  over  their  jet  hair. 
Great  shop  windows,  brilliant  with  plate  ghiss,  and  filled  with  diamonds  and  the  rich  jewelry,  other 
windows  still  more  resplendent,  filled  with  rich  silks  and  A'elvets  of  gorgeous  colors,  for  whose 
manufacture  Milan  is  famous,  over  two  hundred  firms  l)eing  engaged  in  their  manufacture,  still 
other  shops  radiant  with  the  most  enticing  sweets  and  conjiserie,  for  which  Milan  confectionei-s 
have  a  real  genius  —  all  these  add  to  the  brightness  of  this  Italian  Paris. 

From  the  delicate  spiral  tower  of  the  famous  cathedral  —  regarded  by  tlie  i)ious  .Milanese 
as  the  eighth  wonder  of  the  world  —  the  view  is  wonderful.  The  vast  plains  of  Lombardy 
stretch  out  illimitably,  fhc  silver  Italian  lakes  glitter  in  middle  distance,  in  tlie  background  rise 
the  snowy  crests  of  Monte  Rosa  and  Mont  Blanc  ;  left  of  Monte  Rosa  rises  the  sharp  peak  of  the 
Matterhom,  nearer  are  the  mountains  that  border  on  the  beautiful  Engadine  Valley,  the  garden 
of  Switzerland.  What  are  the  wonderfid  altar  pieces,  the  statues,  the  stained  glass,  the  life-sized 
silver  statue  of  the  good  cardinal  and  patron  saint  of  Milan,  S.  Carlo  Borromeo,  whi\t  is  even  tlie 
body  of  the  good  saint  himself,  who  is  embalmed  and  lies  in  state  in  the  subterranean  Capella,  to 
this  wonderful  pageant  of  the  Alps,  those  miracles  of  Nature  seen  from  the  lofty  summit  of  this 
miracle  of  Art  ? 

Beautiful  chestnut-shaded  boulevards  encircle  Milan,  covering  the  site  of  the  old  ramparts. 
On  a  pleasant  Sunday  afternoon  the  Giardini  Pubblici,  which  lie  between  the  Porta  Venezia  and 
the  Porta  Nuova,  are  something  to  see,  crowded  as  they  are  with  handsomely  dressed  ladies  and 
elegant  men.  All  is  bustle  and  life,  all  is  smiling  and  laughter  —  the  bloody  past  of  Milan,  whose 
history  dates  from  the  time  of  the  Romans,  whose  heroic  struggles  against  the  German  emperors 
almost  blotted  her  out  of  existence  in  the  time  of  Frederic  Barbarossa,  whose  later  struggles  with 
the  Spaniards  was  followed  by  her  unwilling  allegiance  to  Austria  and  the  bloody  insurrection  of 
the  seventeenth  of  May,  1848 — all  this  historic  past  seems  forgotten  in  the  glow  and  prosperity  of 
the  smiling  present. 


THK    KOXCiF.XS    XYTORV. 


COPENHAGEN. 


THE  capital  of  the  little  kingdom  of  Denmark  and  the  kingly  residence  is  one  of  the  finest  and 
most  interesting  towns  of  Northern  Europe. 

Viewed  from  the  harbor  of  the  tideless  Baltic,  Copenhagen  possesses  little  picturesque- 
ness,  covering  as  it  does  an  extensive  fiat,  protected  from  the  encroachments  of  the  sea  by  eml)ank- 
ments.  Great  and  repeated  fires,  too,  have  swept  away  the  old  and  gabled  houses  of  the  ancient 
island  town  ;  but,  in  the  place  of  these  wooden  structures  with  their  jutting  rafters  and  quaint 
northern  architecture  liave  sprung  up  lofty  and  spacious  edifices,  both  public  and  private,  bordering 
the  broad,  handsome  streets,  or  the  fine  squares  with  which  the  city  is  adorned. 

Chief  among  these  squares,  the  center  of  the  city  and  the  focus  of  business,  lies  the  Kongens 
Nvtorv  (King's  New  ^larket).  From  it  as  a  center  radiate  important  streets  with  equally  unpro- 
nounceable names.  In  this  square  rises  the  palace  of  Charlottenborg,  with  its  academy  of  art  ; 
close  beside  it  is  the  fine  National  Theater,  flanked  by  numerous  hotels. 

The  Oster-Gade,  with  its  handsome  shops,  leads  from  this  square  to  the  "  old  and  new  market 
square,"  its  continuation  passing  near  the  beautiful  Fruekirche,  whose  interior  is  adorned  by  a  most 
exquisite  marble  group  of  the  risen  Christ  and  the  twelve  apostles,  most  of  which  was  executed  by 
Thorwaldsen's  own  hand. 

On  an  island  hard  by,  a  little  town  in  itself,  rises  the  imposing  Christiansborg  palace  with  a 
sculptured  facade  by  Thorwaldsen  and  splendid  caryatides  which  bear  up  the  throne,  by  the  same 
master.  Rembrandts,  Rubens,  Vandycks  and  the  works  of  modern  Danish  masters  adorn  the  Rojal 
Picture  Gallery. 

On  the  northwest  side  of  the  palace  rises  the  center  of  attraction  in  Copenhagen :  the  Thor- 
waldsen Museum.  Every  work  that  the  great  sculptor  executed  is  found  here,  either  in  the 
original  or  casts :  for  Copenhagen  was  the  home  of  Denmark's  greatest  artist. 

11.5 


110 


GREAT   CITIES    OF   THE    WORLD. 


Next  ill  interest  comes  the  museum  of  Xorthern  antiquities,  the  "linest  of  its  kind  in  exist- 
ence," and  invaluable  to  the  liistorian  of  early  Scandinavia.  Here  are  weapons,  tools,  urns  and 
jewels  without  number ;  the  implements  of  the  stone,  bronze  and  iron  age  well  classified,  together 
with  the  finest  collection  of  gold  ornaments  in  Europe. 

Copenhagen  is  noted  for  its  delicate  filigi-ee  work  in  gold  and  silver,  as  well  as  its  exquisite 
pottery  and  porcelain  made  in  the  Royal  porcelain  factory.  For  the  traveler  who  is  satiated  with 
art,  tliere  are  other  diversions  —  the  jolly  little  Tivoli,  outside  the  Vester-Port,  with  its  concerts, 
theater,  panorama,  fireworks,  frequently  filled  with  Danish  peiisants  in  their  picturesque  gaib  is 
well  worth  seeing.  Through  the  Rosenborg  Gardens,  along  the  Gronengen  esjilanade,  between  the 
citadel  and  the  town  and  the  Lange  Linie,  with  its  beautiful  sea  view,  are  delightful  walks. 

The  environs  of  Copenhagen  aie  attractive  and  picturesque.  Numerous  cJidteaux  and  coumvy- 
houses  border  on  the  blue-green  waters  of  the  smiling  sound ;  rich  cornfields  vie  with  emerald- 
green  pastures  bordered  by  the  fine  beech  forests  which  are  the  pride  of  Denmark.  Charlottenlund, 
the  summer  residence  of  the  crown-prince,  lies  but  two  miles  north  of  Copenhagen :  while  the 
spacious  Dyrehave,  or  deer-park,  a  beautiful  forest  of  oaks  and  beeches,  lies  near  by. 


^^^^^■^•^■•■^■'^^^J^^-fl 


^■^C^^^^^^^^^^^J^tf^i/^^^ 


THK   BAILEY   OI'AUD    OATK. 


LUCKNOW. 


FOURTH  in  size  of  the  cities  of  India  and  capital  of  the  province  of  Oudh,  Lucknow  has 
to-day  a  population  of  over  two  hundred  and  eighty-five  thousand,  and  a  certain  manu- 
facturing and  commercial  importance  as  the  chief  depot  for  the  products  of  the  rich  agri- 
cultural province  of  Oudli.  The  city  is  built  on  both  sides  of  the  river  Gumti,  spanned  by  ff)ur 
bridges.  Its  chief  buildings  of  note  are  the  immense  mausoleum  of  Asaf-na-daala,  the  huge 
Cliattar  Manzil  palace  with  its  gilt  umbrella  spires,  the  lofty  mosque  of  Jamd  Masjfd,  and  the 
English  residency  crowning  a  picturesque  eminence  and  commanding  the  city.     The  city,  like  so 


GREAT  CITIES   OF  THE   WORLD. 


117 


many  orit'iital  towns,  has  from  a  distance  an  appearance  of  great  splendor  and  a  most  ordinary 
dress  when  viewed  within  its  walls.  Some  of  the  chief  streets  are,  however,  hioader  and  iiner  than 
those  of  most  European  towns,  and  its  occupation  as  a  military  center  has  made  it  cleaner  and 
healthier  than  most  crowded  eastern  cities. 

Lucknow's  chief  interest  lies  in  its  dramatic  history  during  the  Sepo}'  revolt  of  \Ho~  and  its 
celebrated  relief  by  Sir  Colin  Campbell,  so  often  sung  in  verse  and  told  in  story.  The  memorial 
cross  that  towers  to-day  above  the  ruined  walls  of  the  old  residency,  tells  the  stoiy  of  that  bloody 
struggle,  while  l)ehind  an  artificial  mound,  gay  with  flowers  and  feather}-  with  the  foliage  of 
gigantic  bamboos,  lie  the  remains  of  the  two  thousand  Europeans  who  j;erished  in  that  awful  tiiiie 
of  revolt  and  murder. 


SHEFFIELD. 


IN  the  West  Riding  of  Yorkshire,  largest  of  all  England's  counties,  with  its  six  thousand  square 
miles  and  its  four  million  acres,  with  its  moors  and  mountains  that  border  upon  the  pictur- 
esque banks  of  the  Don  and  Slieaf,   with  its  seashore   and  hill  lands,   with  its  rivers  and 
moorlands,  where  Nature  has  done  even  more  than  Art,  lies  the  busy,  nineteenth  century  town  of 
Sheffield. 

With  its  321,711  inhabitants,  Sheffield  is  busily  at  work  making  cutlery,  files,  silver  and  plated 
ware,  armor  plates,  steel  guns  and  other  implements  both  of  war  and  peace.  The  heart  of  the 
town  is  given  up  to  manufactures,  while  its  suburbs,  in  Avhich  the  Avealthier  manufacturers  and 
merchants  live,  spread  up  the  slopes  of  the  amphitheater  of  hills  that  circle  around  it  on  all  sides 
except  the  northeast  ,  that  picttiresque  range  of  hills  which  forms  the  backbone  of  Old  England, 
that  separates  Derbysli  re  and  Lancashire  from  Yorkshire,  and  sends  down  the  mountain  springs  that 


FOKGIXG    A  STF.F.I,   IXGOT    AT  THK    ATI. AS   STKF.L   AXD   IRON    WORKS,    SHEFHtil). 


118 


GREAT   CITIES    OF   THE    WORLD. 


form  the  head  waters  of  the  Don  and  the  Sheaf,  between  whose  junction  lies  Shetiield,  "  one  of 
the  foulest  towns  of  England  in  the  most  charming  situation." 

This,  however,  must  be  taken  to-day  with  some  grains  of  allowance  — -  Horace  Walpole's 
description  gives  Sheffield  as  it  was  some  ninety  years  since.  The  Sheffield  of  to-day,  like  the 
other  manufacturing  towns  of  England,  has  shared  in  the  advances  wrought  by  sanitary  science. 
To  be  sure,  the  streets  in  the  old  part  of  the  town  are  irregularly  built,  often  steep  and  narrow. 
But  the  greater  part  of  the  business  is  carried  on  in  the  more  modern  part ;  here  the  streets  are 
wide  and  straight,  well  lighted  and  paved,  and  the  shops,  although  dingied  by  clouds  of  smoke, 
are  elegant  —  at  least  what  can  be  seen  of  them. 

In  the  way  of  antiquities  Sheffield  has  not  much  to  be  proud  of.  Her  St.  Peter's  Church  in 
the  middle  of  the  town,  a  rather  line  example  of  Decorated  Gothic,  was  begun  in  the  fourteenth 
century,  and  the  Shrewsbury  Chapel  attached  contains  a  monument  to  that  sixth  earl  imder  whose 
custody  the  fair  but  unhappy  Queen  of  Scots  spent  twelve  years  of  her  captivit}-.  In  the  Civil 
Wars  the  old  castle,  built  by  Henry  the  Eighth,  was  razed  to  the  ground,  but  the  Manor  House  of 
the  Earl  of  Shi-ewsbury,  in  Avliich  Cardinal  WoLsey  first  languished  and  whei-e  Mary  Stuart  later 
spent  many  of  lier  mournful  years,  still  stands  about  a  mile  and  a  half  southeast  of  St.  Peter's. 

The  men  of  Sheffield  are  still  keeping  up  their  light  Avith  a  dragon  as  fierce  as  that  famous 
one  of  Wantley,  whose  lair  was  scarce  eight  miles  away  —  the  dragon  of  want  and  poverty  ; 
their  weapons  are  as  keenly  forged  to-day  as  the  Sheffield  armor  in  King  James'  time  ;  their 
"  whittle  "  or  knife  is  as  sharp  as  it  was  in  Dan  Chaucer's  time  ;  their  Cutlers'  Hall  stands  in 
proud  dignity  and  the  office  of  Master  Cutler  is  the  highest  dignity  the  city  can  bestow  to-day. 
As  a  rule,  their  work-people  are  well  paid  and  own  little  homes  of  their  own.  Their  brass 
foundries,  their  electro-plating  and  manufacture  of  Britannia-ware,  their  stoves,  grates  and 
fenders,  and  their  optical  instruments  vie  with  the  steel  rolling  mills ;  and  a  visit  to  Sheffield  will 
well  repay  the  ti-aveler  interested  in  the  industrial  development  of  the  nineteenth  century. 


CLEVELAND. 


c 


'LK\'ELAND  was  not  born  gjeat,  nor 
witli  an  irresistible  capacity  for  great- 
ness. Neitlier  has  slic  had  greatness 
thrust  upon  he)-,  as  have  man}*  of  the  great 
cities  of  the  West.  She  has  fairly  earned  it  by 
dint  of  hard  labor.  She  is  grreat  because  she 
has  had  afreat  citizens.  To  the  Pioneei-  Period 
of  Cleveland's  history  that  closed  in.  1827  suc- 
ceeded the  Canal  Period  which  meant  an  access 
of  new  life  to  the  Forest  Cit)-.  Then  in  the 
fifties  came  another  change  when,  by  1857,  coal 
met  iron  at  Cleveland,  and  when  coal  and  iron 
meet  there  is  sure  to  be  trade  and  there  needs 
only  a  little  flame  and  a  modicum  of  skill  for 
the  achievinsf  cfreat  industrial  results.  These 
small  essentials  came  quickly  to  liand.  and  at 
once  Cleveland  was,  in  consequence,  fairly 
launched  upon  the  latest  and  greatest  of  all  the 
periods  of  her  history,  the  Industrial  Period, 
or,  if  you  will,  the  Coal  and  Iron  Period.  Her  annual  product  of  manufactured  iron  is  about  nine 
hundred  thousand  tons :  Bessemer  and  open  hearth  ingots,  pig,  merchant  bar  and  finished  iron. 


THE   GARFIELD   :\rEJrORIAL. 


(iKEAT    crriKS    OF    TIIK    WolMJ).  Hi) 

rods,  steel  mils,  forcings,  .iiiil  wiie  rods,  linished  wire,  sheets  and  plates,  nuts  and  l)()lts,  and 
shapes  tor  wagon  hardware  ;  two  hundred  thousand  car  wheels  and  two  hundred  and  loity  thou- 
sand kegs  of  wire  nails,  not  to  mention  miscellanies.  In  1887  the  value  of  this  product  was 
•'y8:],lo0,000  to  which  the  ''Cleveland  Rollin<r  Mill"  contributed  over  one  tliiid.  This  rollin<'  mill 
by  the  way  is  one  of  the  largest  in  the  world.  Henry  Chisholm,  its  ownei-  and  one  of  Cleveland's 
most  liberal  citizens,  is  a  Scotchman  who  came  to  this  country  at  twenty  witli  scarcely  a  dollar  in 
his  pocket.  So  much  for  iron  manufacturing.  Now  as  to  iron  trade.  In  1887  Clcvelan<l  liandled 
and  forwarded  one  million,  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  tons  of  Lake  Superior  iron  ore, 
and  there  was  sold  in  her  iron  market  two  million,  three  hundred  and  tifty  thousand  tons 
additional  consigned  to  other  ports,  making  a  total  of  four  million  tons  involved  in  her  iron  tran.s- 
actions..  In  1889  her  total  receipts  of  iron  ore  were  one  million,  thiee  hundred  and  ninety  thou- 
sand tons,  a  gain  of  two  hundred  and  forty  thousand  tons  over  1887  and  of  four  hundred  and 
eighteen  thousand  or  fort3'-three  per  cent,  over  1888.     .V  good  showing  certainly. 

But  if  iron  was  the  salvation  of  Cleveland,  and  is  still  her  staple,  it  is  not  by  any  means  her 
sole  support.  Ohio  and  Penns3-lvania  vie  with  each  f)ther  in  furnisliing  her  crude  petroleum,  of 
wdiich  she  refined  in  1887  five  million  barrels,  worth  nearly  fifteen  million  dollars.  The  Standard 
Oil  Company,  whose  works  cover  several  acres  at  the  corner  of  Kingsbury  Run,  has  branches  in 
several  other  States,  dictates  rates  to  the  railroads  and  has  bought  or  driven  away  every  rival.  It 
conti'ols  the  crude  oil  market  of  Pennsylvania  and  the  refined  oil  market  of  the  world.  Whatever 
may  be  one's  views  of  monopolies,  the  enterprise  of  this  immense  corporation  compels  his  admii-a- 
tion.  Ship-building  is  many  times  greater  at  Cleveland  than  any  other  port  on  the  chain  of  lakes, 
the  lumber  trade  amounts  to  fifteen  million  dollai-s  annually,  cloak-making  five  million  dollars  and 
woolen  manufactures  three  million,  five  hundred  thousand. 

Industrial  Cleveland  is  a  winding,  narrow  valley  bordered  by  high  bluffs  on  either  hand,  and 
covered  with  a  maze  of  ship  and  lumber  yards,  planing  and  flour  mills,  woolen  factories,  slaughter 
and  packing  houses  and  oil  and  chemical  works.  This  valle}-  follows  the  course  of  the  Cuyalioga 
River  whose  available  harborage  of  sixteen  miles  is  always  as  completely  lined  with  lake  shipping 
as  is  the  ten  mile  frontage  of  the  lake  itself.  The  Eastern  and  Western  bluffs  are  united  by  a 
magnificent  stone  causeway,  3211  feet  long,  64  feet  high  and  4(5  feet  wide,  containing  2,012,500 
cubic  feet  of  masonry  and  completed  in  1878  at  a  cost  of  >ii!2,2o0,000,  a  sum  larger  in  propoition  to 
the  population  of  the  city  than  the  cost  of  the  Brooklyn  Bridge.  Two  other  immense  viaducts 
have  been  recently  completed.  One  over  Kingsbury  Run,  an  eastern  branch  of  the  Cuyahoga,  is 
1063  feet  long,  80  feet  high  and  48  feet  wide.  The  other,  the  Central  Viaduct,  over  another 
branch  of  the  Cuyahoga,  connects  the  east  and  south  sections.  It  is  2830  feet  long,  48  feet  wide, 
and  101  feet  high,  with  a  draw  span  of  239  feet  and  a  branch  to  the  west  side  which  makes  its 
entire  length  over  a  mile.     Both  these  later  viaducts  are  mostly  iron. 

Business  Cleveland  is  grouped  about  Monumental  Park,  a  large  open  space  which  takes  its 
name  from  a  monument  to  Commodoie  Perry.  Superior  Street,  one  of  several  that  radiates  from 
this  park,  is  the  principal  business  thoroughfare.  It  is  a*  street  of  magnificent  business  palaces, 
and  its  exceptional  width,  one  hundred  and  thirty-two  feet,  may  be  accounted  for  b}-  the  fact  that 
it  was  laid  out  when  land  was  only  one  dollar  an  acre. 

Cleveland  has  often  been  called  the  Forest  Cit}'  from  the  shade  trees  (over  eighty  thousand 
of  them),  mostly  maples,  that  adorn  her  residence  quarters.  Euclid  Avenue,  which  begins  in  the 
southwestern  corner  of  Monumental  Park  and  extends  many  miles  beyond  the  city  limits,  is  gen- 
erally admitted  to  be  the  most  beautiful  street  in  the  country.  It  is  level,  broad  and  shady,  its 
residences  stand  well  back  from  the  drive  and  exhibit  varied  and  pleasing  architectural  effects,  its 
lawns  are  velvety  and  its  private  grounds  ample  and  tasteful.  A  beautiful  private  park,  which 
will  soon  be  made  over  to  the  city,  extends  along  a  part  of  its  coui-se,  and  opposite  the  park  is 
Lakeview  Cemetery  where  James  A.  Garfield  is  buried,  whose  monument  will  some  day  be  one  of 
our  great  national  shrines.  The  outlook  over  the  broad  expanse  of  the  lake  from  this  point  is 
inexpressibly  beautiful.  It  is  a  fitting  spot  for  the  last  resting-place  of  the  Nation's  latest  hero. 
Indeed  of  all  the  claims  that  Cleveland  can  advance  to  national  recognition,  none  is  greater  than 
this,  that  she  holds  the  ashes  of  a  martyred  president. 


SHANGHAI. 


A  EUROPE  AN  city  iu  the  Orient :  such  is  Shanghai.  Situated  between  two  great  bends  in 
the  Woo-sung,  or  Hwang-p"u  River,  some  eight  miles  from  its  contiuence  with  the  Yang-tsze- 
Kiang  estuary,  the  citj-  has  been  adopted  by  the  treaty  powers  —  England,  France  and 
America  —  as  the  best  settlement  for  a  port  of  trade,  because  of  its  easy  access  to  the  ocean  and 
its  favorable  location  as  the  natural  outlet  of  the  products  of  what  is  known  as  '•  the  garden  of 
China."  The  native  city  is  crowded,  dirty,  ill-smelling  and  only  picturesquely  attractive  to  a 
limited  extent.  The  mixed  inhabitants  of  the  foreign  settlement  exceed  one  hundred  and  fift}- 
thousand  and  the  native  city  with  its  suburbs  and  the  boat  population  increase  the  figures 'to  fully 
three  hundred  and  twenty-five  thousand  souls.  The  foreign  quarter,  entirely  distinct  though 
adjoining  the  Chinese  town,  is  substantially  built,  conveniently  arranged  and  excellently  governed 
by  a  representative  of  the  Christian  powers.  The  manifold  attractions  of  the  place  have  brought 
many  merchants  to  the  new  city  and  as  a  result,  says  Professor  Douglas,  "  from  the  banks  of  the 
Hwang-p'u  arose  lines  of  hongs  and  handsome  dwelling  houses  which  have  converted  a  reed- 
covered  swamp  into  one  of  the  finest  cities  of  the  East." 


ROME. 


THE  slow  train  from  Pisa  brings  one,  wearied  from  a  nine 
hours"  ride,  into  Rome  at  last,  after  dark.     The  traveler 
disembarks  in  a  lono;,  cjlass-roofed  station  and  takes  an 
omnibus  to  his  hotel.     Modern  Rome  is  prosaic  enough. 

"  The  idea,"  says  Mr.  Stockton,  "  which  most  of  us  have 
formed  of  the  city  of  Romulus  and  Remus  has  no  association 
with  such  a  thins:  as  a  liotel  omnibus  ;  and  as  we  roll  awav 
through  street  after  street  lighted  by  occasional  lamps,  we  see 
nothincr  throusfh  the  omnibus  windows  which  reminds  us  at  all 
of  Julius  Ciesar  or  Cicero." 

Daylight  will  show  these  reminders  in  plenty,  but  modern 
Rome  and  ancient  Rome  are  really  distinct  sections.  Modern 
Rome  occupies  Avhat  was  in  olden  times  the  valley  of  the 
Campus  Martins  and  the  hills  that  press  upon  it.  All  this 
section  was  outside  the  walls  of  the  ancient  city. 

Taken  as  a  whole.  Rome  —  ancient  and  modern  —  com- 
mences at  a  northerly  point,  tlie  Piazza  del  Popolo,  and  spreads 
out  southwards  like  a  fan.  The  "  Yellow  Tiber  "  cuts  its  wind- 
ing way  through  the  city  of  to-day,  dividing  it  into  two  unequal 
parts,  and  the  greatest  breadth  of  the  city  is  from  the  Vatican 
and  St.  Peter's  on  the  western  limit  to  the  palace  of  the  Lateran 
on  the  eastern  limit.  The  space  thus  covered  is  filled  with 
memorials  of  more  than  twenty-five  centuries  of  historic  life.  '*  There  aie  indeed."  .says  Mr. 
Stockton,  "  three  cities  to  be  seen  in  Rome :  the  Rome  of  to-day,  the  Rome  of  the  Middle  Ages  and 
ancient  Rome  ;  each  very  distinct  from  the  others  and  yet  all.  in  a  measure,  mingled  together.  I 
lived,"  he  savs,  "for  months  in  a  portion  of  the  city  where  tlie  street  was  broad  and  well  paved, 
with  wide  sidewalks  :  where  the  houses  weie  tall  and  new.  with  handsome  shops  in  many  of  them  ; 

120 


122 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD. 


where  passers-by  wore  hats,  coats  and  dresses  just  like  the  people  to  whom  I  had  always  been 
accustomed  —  and  this  street  continually  reminded  me  of  some  of  the  new  avenues  in  the  upper 
part  of  New  York.  But  if  I  went  around  a  corner  and  down  a  broad  flight  of  steps  I  saw  before 
me  a  lofty  marble  column,  nearly  a  hundi-ed  and  fifty  feet  high,  around  which  winds  a  long, 
spiral  procession  of  more  than  two  thousand  sculptured  warriors  with  their  chariots  and  engines 
of  war  and  beneath  which  lies  buried  the  great  Emperor  Trajan.  There  is  nothing  about  that  to 
remind  any  one  of  New  York." 

Rome  still  covers  four  of  its  original  seven  hills  —  the  Capitoline,  Quirinal,  Yiminal  and 
Esquiline,  though  the  valleys  between  are  tilled  in  with  forty  feet  of  rubbish.  But  the  three 
famous  hills  of  ol  1  —  the  A ventine,  Coelian  and  Palatine  are  left  "  to  ruins,  gardens  and  monks." 

The  great  wall  constructed  by  the  Emperor  Aurelian,  sixteen  hundred  years  ago,  still  sur- 
rounds the  city  on  Tiber's  eastern  bank.  It  is  fourteen  miles  in  extent,  is  tifty-five  feet  high  and  is 
pierced  by  twelve  gates.  About  two  thirds  of  the  space  thus  enclosed  is  covered  by  gardens,  vine- 
yards and  the  ruins  of  a  dead  Rome.  Seven  bridges  span  the  Tiber.  One  of  the  best  \dews  of 
the  city  is  from  the  top  of  the  Pincian  Hill. 

The  great  "  show  "  places  of  Rome  are  St.  Peter's,  the  larger  church  in  the  world,  the  Vati- 
can, or  palace  of  the  Pope,  the  Coliseum,  the  Castle  of  San  Angelo,  formerly  the  tomb  of  the 
Emperor  Hadrian,  the  old  Forum  or  meeting-place  of  the  people,  the  column  of  Marcus  Aurelius, 
the  arches  of  Titus,  of  Septimius  Severus  and  of  Constantine,  the  Farnese  Palace,  the  Pantheon, 
the  buildings  and  statues  of  the  Capitoline  Hill,  the  Fountain  of  Trevi,  the  church  of  St.  John  of 
Lateran  with  its  sacred  staircase,  said  to  be  formed  from  the  stairs  of  Pilate's  house  in  Jerusalem, 
the  church  of  St.  Maria  Maggiore,  with  the  tombs,  monuments  and  ruins  in  the  suburbs  of  the 
city.  These  represent  the  woik  and  the  history  of  ages  —  to-tlay  jostles  against  yesterday  at  every 
turn,  and  the  sights  and  scenes  in  this  greatest  city  of  the  world  are  such  as  to  set  even  the  most 
trivial  of  visitoi-s  to  thinking  and  to  keep  the  cultivated  tourist  in  a  maze  of  absorbing  interest. 

Rome  to-day  is  a  city  of  nearly  three  hundred  thousand  people  —  a  cleanly,  well-lighted,  well- 
paved  and  in  some  parts  modern,  progressive  city.  New  Italy  casting  off  the  reign  of  pope  and 
Bourbon  has  made  the  old  town  its  capital.  Here  on  the  Quirinal  Hill  is  the  Quirinal  Palace 
where  lives  the  progressive  king,  and  in  the  town  is  a  life  and  action  that  the  daj's  of  priest  and 


THK    CVSri.K    OK    SAN    A.\(.KI.<J. 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE    WOULD. 


123 


ST.   petkk's  and  THK  COLONNADK. 

tyrant  never  knew  giving  promise  of  a  great  and  helpful  future.  The  excavations  that  are  being 
carried  on  are  daily  giving  scholars  and  students  of  to-day  a  better  understanding  of  the  history 
of  the  grand  old  city  that  was  in  its  day  of  glory  the  mistress  of  the  world. 

Rome  as  the  most  famous  is  also  the  most  wonderful  of  cities  for  the  sight-seer  and  the  tourist. 
Every  visitor  within  its  Avails  j'ields  to  the  fascination  of  the  place  and  few  indeed  but,  on  the  eve 
of  leaving,  visit  the  fountain  of  Trevi  and  throw  into  its  spaikling  pool  the  small  coin,  by  this  sign 
bearing  their  faith  in  the  legend  that  he  who  casts  a  coin  into  Trevi  will  visit  Rome  again. 


BUFFALO. 


THE  Buffalo  of  to-day  is  probably  under  greater  obligations  to  the  railways  than  any  other 
city  in  the  country  except  Chicago.  Five  trunk  lines  connect  it  with  the  West  and  six 
with  New  York  City.  These  and  the  numerous  local  roads  aggregate  a  length  of  over 
twelve  thousand  miles.  They  own  more  than  four  square  miles  of  real  city  property  and  have 
more  miles  of  tracks  within  the  municipal  limits  than  are  to  be  found  in  any  other  city  in  the 
woikl — four  hundred  and  thirty -six  miles  of  standard  gauge,  a  length  as  great  as  the  whole  dis- 
tance to  New  York  City.  Even  the  suburbs  are  "  held  fast  in  a  network  of  railway  tracks."  The 
Lehigh  Valley  Road  has  recently  improved  its  terminal  facilities  at  an  outlay  of  four  million 
(loUai-s  by  guiding  the  water  of  the  "  City  Ship  Canal "  into  an  open  tract  of  four  hundred  and 
twenty-five  acres,  ditched  in  parallelograms  so  as  to  give  eight  miles  of  docks,  an  amount  equal  to 
the  old  water-front.  These  docks  are  likely  to  prove  of  greater  value  to  Buffalo  than  any  work 
that  has  been  attempted  since  the  digging  of  ''Clinton's  Big  Ditch,"  the  Erie  Canal,  to  which  as 
the  eastern  outlet  of  the  chain  of  lakes  she  owes,  if  not  her  existence,  at  least  her  first  real  growth 
in  trade.  This  canal  still  does  a  considerable  business,  but  it  like  others  has  had  its  day  so  that  it 
really  finds  its  prime  function  to  be  tire  regulating  of  the  rates  of  rail  transportation. 


124  GREAT  CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD. 

Next  to  Chicago,  Buffalo  is  the  most  important  shipping  point  for  grain  on  the  lakes. 
Indeed,  so  far  as  the  grain  business  is  concerned,  Buffalo  has  a  sort  of  right  to  a  feeling  of  pro- 
prietorship over  much  tliat  is  not  stiictlj'  its  own,  inasmuch  as  it  was  a  Buffalo  citizen  who  first 
successfully  developed  the  idea  of  elevating  grain  bj-  steam,  setting  up  the  first  steam  transfer 
and  storage  elevator  (capacity  fifty-five  thousand  bushels)  in  1842.  What  the  cotton-gin  was  to 
cotton,  that  the  grain  elevator  has  proven  to  grain.  It  is  almost  needless  to  add  that  these  ele- 
phantine structures  are  a  striking  element  in  almost  any  view  of  Buffalo  that  can  be  had,  but 
especiall}-  in  one  from  an  incoming  ship  on  the  lake. 

Iron  is  second  only  to  grain  as  an  article  of  trade  and  the  tables  of  its  receipts  show  an  even 
greater  increase.  In  1889  there  were  received  two  hundred  and  ninety -eight  thousand  tons,  an 
increase  in  a  single  item  of  more  than  the  total  receipts  of  every  kind  of  raw  and  worked  iron  in 
the  early  eighties.  In  1886  it  received  279,493,000  feet  of  lumber,  and  of  live  stock  it  averages 
full}'  two  hundred  cars  a  day  the  year  round,  Sundays  included.  The  growth  of  the  coal 
trade  has  been  almost  as  remarkable  as  that  of  iron.  In  1874,  there*  were  received  of  bitumin- 
ous coal  327,467  tons  and  of  anthracite,  472,262,  a  total  of  799.729  tons.  In  1884,  the  lapse  of 
just  a  decade,  the  receipts  of  bituminous  were  1,921,854  tons  and  of  anthracite,  2,451,410,  making 
a  total  of  4,372,764  tons  —  more  than  a  five-fold  increase. 

The  growth  of  the  coal  traffic  has  been  largeh'  due  to  the  expansion  of  the  Buffalo  industries, 
which  here,  as  in  most  other  large  cities,  patiently  bided  their  time  till  commerce  had  become 
securely  established,  but  which  are  now  ready  to  act  and.  to  be  favorably  re-acted  upon  by  this 
same  commerce.  Iron  manufactui-es  are  of  the  first  importance.  Brewing  and  distilling  are 
carried  on  to  a  large  extent.  Leather  and  tanning  works  turn  out  an  annual  product  of  six 
million  dollars.  Buffalo  originated  and  still  controls  the  grape-sugar  industrj-,  and,  as  if  to  still 
farther  show  that  they  are  tlioroughly  in  eai-nest  in  this  matter  of  manufactures,  the  citizens 
of  Buffalo  liave  recently  offered  a  prize  of  one  hundred  thousand  dollars  to  the  man  whose  inven- 
tive genius  shall  make  it  possible  to  utilize  the  Niagara  water-power.  Surely  if  this  end  shall 
ever  be  accomplished,  an  impetus  will  be  thereby  given  to  her  industrial  life  that  will  hurry 
Buffalo  into  the  very  front  rank  of  the  manufacturing  cities  of  the  Union. 

The  "  Queen  City  of  the  Lakes  "  lies  in  the  final  curve  of  the  southern  shore  of  Lake  Erie 
in  a  comparatively  flat  section,  bounded  by  the  lake  itself,  tho  Niagara  River  —  to  which  the  Erie 
Canal  runs  parallel  —  and  the  hills  of  Chautauqua,  Evans  and  Wales,  and  divided  into  two  unequal 
parts  by  the  Buffalo  Creek.  The  grouping  of  its  streets  is  so  strongly  reminiscent  of  Washington 
that  one  is  not  at  all  surprised  to  learn  that  the  National  Capital  was  indeed  its  model,  Joseph 
Ellicott  who  survcN'ed  and  laid  it  out  for  the  '*  Holland  Land  Company  *'  being  own  brother  to 
the  Surveyor  General  of  the  United  States.  The  architecture  of  its  business  blocks  is  not 
especiall)'  attractive,  but  the  lack  is  at  least  partly  compensated  for  by  its  public  buildings  and 
private  residences.  The  quiet  massiveness  of  the  stone  of  the  City  Hall  and  the  contrasting 
elegance  of  the  richly  decorative  brick  and  terra  cotta  of  the  Public  Library  bespeak  the  excel-> 
lence  of  the  former  as  does  the  environment  of  Delaware  Avenue  the  charm  of  the  latter.  This 
avenue,  notwithstanding  the  remark  of  the  wag,  that  it  "  takes  its  rise  in  a  jail  and  ends  in  a 
tomb,"  is  a  very  cheerful  and  beautiful  street,  overarched  through  its  entire  length  of  over  three 
miles  b}'  double  rows  of  elms  and  maples  in  which  Buffalonians  take  a  great  deal  of  just  pride. 

In  1804  Timothy  Dwight  wrote  of  Buffalo  :  "  The  inhabitants  are  a  casual  collection  o-f 
adventurers  and  have  the  usual  characteristics  of  such  adventurers  thus  collected  when  remote 
from  regular  society."  And  it  is  onl}-  seventy-seven  years  since  the  British  burned  all  the  houses 
of  the  village  except  two.  But  for  all  its  lack  of  a  past,  it  has  quite  outgrown  the  rawness 
incident  to  youth,  so  that,  while  just  as  keenly  alive  to  business  as  an}-  of  the  cities  of  the  West, 
it  yet  gives  much  the  same  impression  of  stability  that  an  Eastern  city  does.  It  is  this  fact,  fully 
as  much  as  the  careful  preservation  of  its  shade  trees  that  lias  caused  Buffalo  to  be  compaied  so 
often  to  New  Haven. 

Ai't  (except  music)  and  literature  can  hardly  be  said  to  have  become  objects  of  wide-spread 
interest  with  her  i^eople  yet,  but  that  she  has  about  -her  a  congenial  and  cultivated  social  atmos- 
phere is  alike  the  testimony  of  residents  and  of  visiting  strangers. 


TlIK    XKM-    ACAnK:\rV    OF    FIXT;    AlITS    IX    Ml'NlCH. 


MUNICH. 


Ml'NICn.    Miinchen,    or   Monaco,  as    the    capital    of    Ravaria   is    variously  called,  has  the 
reputation  of  being  one  of  the  jolliest  and  cheapest  little  capitals  of  Europe.     The  only 
trouble  is  an  embarrassment  of  riches  ;  there  is  so  much  to  see,  so  much  to  admire,  and 
generally  so   little   time  with  which  to  do  it  all.     The  American,  who  usually  befoi-e  going  to 
Munich  has  a  rather  contemptuous  idea  of  this  city  and  comes  to  scoff,  frequently  remains  to 
stay  —  he  can  find  no  place  where  he  can  get  so  much  for  so  little. 

If  he  is  an  art  student,  he  soon  feels  he  is  living  in  one  of  the  richest  art  cities  in  Germany 
where  the  instruction  is  almost  nominal  ;  he  liannts  the  spacious  Vatican-like  galleries  of  the  old 
Pinakothek  with  their  fourteen  liundrett  pictures  chronologically  arranged.  If  he  wishes  to 
study  the  history  of  Painting,  in  the  spacious  Loggia  on  the  south  side  the  frescos  of  Cor- 
nelius, twent)'-five  in  number  Avhich  adorn  the  arcade,  give  the  whole  history  of  the  art  of  the 
Middle  Ages. 

If  the  art-lover  tire  of  these  works  of  the  old  masters,  in  the  adjoining  square  in  tlie  Neue 
Pinakothek  he  can  see  the  works  of  the  best  modern  painters,  particularly  of  the  .Munich 
school. 

Tired  of  the  glory  and  the  glare  of  these  brilliant  paintings,  it  is  like  moonlight  unto  sun- 
light to  step  into  the  cool,  silent,  spacious  Glyptothek,  with  its  silver}',  gleaming  statues  and 
LMime  face  to  face  with  the  choicest  productions  of  Greek  art. 

But  High  Art  alone  is  somewhat  wearisome.  The  traveler  who  wishes  to  get  a  l)ird"s-eye 
view  of  Munich  l)efore  proceeding  further  in  art  study  is  wise  if  he  strolls  out  to  the  beautiful 
Theresien-wiese,  a  spacious,  verdant,  high-lying  meadow  on  the  eastern  outskirts  of  the  town.  If 
he  is  fortunate  enough  to  stroll  out  there  on  a  bright  Sunday,  the  first  in  October,  at  tlie  time  of 
the  October  Fest,  or  annual  fair  and  festival,  he  will  see  a  brilliant  sight  that  is  tiuly  national. 

12o 


1:^6 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE    WORLD. 


Over  a  multitudinous  crowd,  brilliant  as  a  spring  parterre,  watches  the  giant  Statue  of 
Bavaria,  in  front  of  the  Hall  of  Fame,  sixt3--nine  feet  in  height,  rivalled  onl}-  b)-  the  Bartholdi 
Statue  ;  this  great  bronze  figure  was  made  at  Munich  out  of  Turkish  cannon  won  at  the  sea-fight 
of  Navarino. 

Max-Josephs  Platz,  the  center  of  the  traffic  of  the  citj-,  dividing  the  new  from  the  old  adjoins 
the  Rbj'al  Palace  ;  from  it  leads  the  splendid  Maximilian  Street,  three  quarters  of  a  mile  long, 
bordered  by  the  Mint,  the  National  Museum  and  adorned  b)^  many  statues.  The  progress  of 
civilization  and  art  from  the  earliest  times  is  illustrated  in  this  Museum  of  King  Max  the  Second, 
filled  to  overflowing  with  paintings,  frescos,  carvings,  tapestries,  stained-glass,  lace  and  rich  work 
in  silver,  ivory,  gold  and  jewels.  At  the  end  of  the  street,  rising  forty-two  feet  in  height  from 
the  ground  stands  the  magnificent  monument  of  King  Maximilian  the  Second,  the  statue  of  the 
king  shining  resplendant  in  gilded  bionze.  Across  Maximilian's  Bridge  spanning  the  Tsar,  rises 
the  lofty  Maximilaneum  on  the  terraced  height,  surrounded  by  beautiful  drives.  Its  facades  and 
halls  are  adorned  by  statues  and  busts. 

Time  would  fail  the  traveler  to  visit  all  Munich's  sights ;  the  Ro3-al  Library,  with  its  twenty- 
five  thousand  manuscripts  and  eight  hundred  thousand  volumes,  the  Aller-Heiligen  Hofkirche, 
"a  perfect  gem  of  taste  and  magnificence,"  the  Basilica,  the  Schwanthaler  Museum,  the  Nibe- 
lungen  frescos,  the  picture  gallery  of  Count  Shack  and  the  magnificent  gateways  and  triumphal 
arches  of  the  PropyUca  and  the  Liegesthor. 


NEW  ORLEANS. 


ITHIN  a  hundred  miles  of  the  mouth  of  the  ^Mississippi, 
amid  a  chaos  of  ooze-flats,  wild  prairies,  sedgy  savannas, 
sunken  nuirasses,  cypress  and  cedar  swamps,  lagoons  and 
palmetto  thickets, 

"  When-  'tis  neither  sea  nor  strand. 
Ocean  nor  good,  dry  land." 

stand.s  —  oi'  sits,  or  lies,  or  floats  —  the  Crescent  City  of 
New  Orleans.  "  I  never  could  find  out  exactly  where 
New  Orleans  is,"  says  Charles  Dudley  Warner  with  his 
customary  felicity.  "  I  have  looked  for  it  on  the  map 
without  much  enlightenment.  It  is  dropped  down  there 
somewhere  in  the  marshes  of  the  Mississippi  and  the 
bayous  and  lakes.  It  is  below  the  one  and  tangled  up 
among  the  others,  or  it  might  some  day  float  out  to  the 
Gulf  and  disappear.  How  the  Mississippi  gets  out  I 
never  could  discover."  The  river  is  certainlj-  very  freak- 
ish just  here.  It  makes  three  abrupt  turns,  southward,  eastward,  northward,  and  by  so  doing 
hems  in  three  sides  of  a  rectangle  of  land,  the  fourth  boundary  of  which  is  the  southern  edge  of 
Lake  Pontchartrain  five  or  six  miles  to  the  northward.  The  mighty  river  clasps  and  fondles  the 
city  as  lovingly  as  though  it  were  her  own  child,  as  in  very  truth  it  is  and  still  a  nursling. 

To  the  tourist  who  gets  his  first  view  of  New  Orleans  from  the  deck  of  an  incoming  steamer, 
it  appeal's  a  veritable  thing  of  beauty.  As  it  rests  on  mire  and  water  held  in  place  by  some 
invisible  anchor  he  likens  it  in  all  but  color  to  the  magnificent  water-lily  of  the  Amazon,  the 
Victoria  Regia.  But  as  he  takes  note  of  its  many  hues  — the  tender  green  of  its  orangeries,  parks 
and  skirting  plantations,  the  red  of  its  tiled  roofs  and  chimneys,  the  pink,  yellow,  brown  and  gray 


GREAT.  CITIES   OK   TliK    WOULD.  127 

of  its  stuccoetl  and  woock'ii  houses  and  of  tlu;  kaleidoscopic  effects  of  its  thousands  ui)on  thou- 
sands of  festooned,  pointed,  pinnacled,  pagoda-like  cisterns  of  cypress  wood,  he  does  not  find  it 
hard  to  transform  it  into  a  richly-mottled  orchid,  that  has  attained  a  luxuiiant  parasitic  growth  on 
some  root  or  sunken  log  of  these  encompassing  moi'asses,  or  even  into  a  gorgeous  ti'opic  Initterfiy 
that,  having  thoughtlessly  strayed  too  far  to  the  northward,  has  alighted  for  an  instant  just  to 
take  its  hearings  and  will  straight  flutter  away. 

Landing,  and  entering  and  strolling  about,  this  same  tourist  finds  New  Orleans  one  fascinating 
jumble  of  picturesque  details ;  levees  fringed  for  miles  with  every  variety  of  river-craft  and  swarm- 
ing with  bulky  merchandise,  wagons  and  laborers  who  shout  and  swear  in  a  dozen  difleieut 
tongues  ;  newly  erected  business  blocks  and  tumble-down  old  markets  ;  churches,  clubhouses, 
public  buildings,  theaters,  gilded  saloons  and  gambling  palaces  ;  broad  avenues  of  over-arching, 
gray-bearded  Jive  oaks,  cheery  with  mocking-birds  ;  narrow,  dirty  alleys  and  hummocky  side^^■alks  ; 
modern  American  mansions  surrounded  by  velvety  lawns,  old  French  houses  embellished  with 
porches,  galleries,  dormer  windows,  jalousies  and  balconies  of  iron  traceries  most  delicatel}' 
wrought;  courts  for  ornament  with  flower-beds,  vines,  vases,  fountains,  and  courts  for  use,  full  of 
old  furniture  and  rubbish  ;  front  gardens  of  southern  flowering  shrubs  and  fruit  trees  shut  off 
from  the  street  by  elaborately  latticed  palings ;  the  rich  perfume  of  red  roses,  ever  and  anon  over- 
borne by  the  stench  of  green  or  iridescent  surface  sewers ;  quaint  nooks  and  corners  inhabited  by 
still  quaintei'  people,  black  skins,  red  skins,  yellow  skins,  white  skins  and  every  possible  shade  of 
skin  between.  He  may  be  a  little  dazed  with  it  all,  but  he  cannot  fail  to  like  New  Orleans,  at 
once  "the  most  cosmopolitan  of  provincial  cities"  and  "the  least  American  of  American  cities." 

With  a  history  as  romantic  as  changeful,  New  Orleans  in  its  relations  to  the  great  woild  of 
business  is  at  present  in  a  transition  state.  For  many  years  the  levee  was  the  platform  of  all  its 
activities.  New  Orleans  was  literally  the  City  of  the  Mississippi,  as  much  a  product  commercially 
of  the  ships  she  floated  down,  as  its  site  was  the  product  of  the  alluvium  she  deposited.  It  was 
looked  upon  in  all  quarters  as  the  future  emporium  of  the  whole  gigantic  Mississippi  basin.  This 
was  a  rational  expectation  based  on  an  almost  overwhelming  probability.  But  it  is  with  cities  as 
it  is  with  men.     It  is  the  unexpected  that  happens. 

The  Erie  Canal,  the  application  of  steam  to  ocean  traffic,  the  yellow  fever  scourge  of  1853-5 
and  finally  the  Civil  AVar  produced  a  shock  that  was  well-nigh  fatal.  How  great  this  shock  was 
is  evidenced  by  the  fact  that  not  till  1883  did  its  commerce  become  equal  to  the  commerce  of  1860. 
Almost  a  quarter  of  a  centuiy  just  catching  its  breath  after  its  rude  tumble  I  while  Chicago  and 
Cincinnati  and  New  York  were  racing  ahead  without  any  handicap  I  And  after  all,  the  wonder  is 
not  so  much  that  New  Orleans  was  a  quarter  of  a  century  getting  its  breath,  as  that  it  succeeded 
in  getting  it  at  all.  The  tact  and  the  perseverance  requisite  to  a  complete  adjustment  to  an 
entirely  new  condition  of  society  on  a  city's  part  can  hardly  be  exaggerated.  That  this  adjust- 
ment is  not  yet  complete,  need  hardly  be  said,  but  there  can  no  longer  be  the  slightest  doubt  as  to 
the  result.  The  Creole  element  which  has  so  long  been  dominant  is  gradually  succumbing  to 
American  influence.  This  change  is  on  many  accounts  to  be  regretted,  but  it  is  unequivocably 
favorable  to  commercial  and  industrial  advancement.  Note  a  few  of  the  changes  already  effected. 
Foreign  commerce  is  no  longer  impeded  by  sand  bars;  the  famous  Eads  jetties  erected  in  1879 
have  entirely  obviated  that.  A  stricter  quarantine  and  improved  drainage  have  rendered  the 
recurrence  of  yellow  fever  epidemics  much  less  likely.  Six  trunk  lines  of  railroad  connect  with 
all  portions  of  the  country,  the  trade  with  New  York  alone  more  than  making  up  for  the  old  coast- 
wise traffic.  How  far  it  has  accepted  the  inevitable  new  in  this  one  particular  of  railroads,  is  clear 
from  the  fact  that  in  a  short  period  of  eight  years  the  relations  of  river  and  railway  have  been 
exactly  reversed.  In  1880  the  river  trade  was  twice  that  of  the  railways ;  in  1884  the  railways 
and  river  were  practically  tied ;  and  in  1888  the  ]-ailways  did  double  the  business  of  the  river. 

When  the  great  Southwest  shall  have  been  more  fully  developed,  and  when  the  United 
States  shall  have  become,  as  it  must,  the  commercial  jiartner  of  the  South  American  Republics,  New 
Orleans  may  hope  for  a  period  of  commercial  growth  quite  on  a  par  with  any  she  has  ever  known. 
Her  command  of  the  Gulf  of  Mexico,  her  proximity  to  the  Indies,  her  prestige  as  the  metropolis  of 
the  Gulf  States  are  other  favoring  influences  and  the  Mississippi  is  likely  to  long  remain  a  real 
source  of  strensrth. 


KIOTO. 


A  TOWN  of  temples  —  Kioto,  the  "  holj;  city"  of  Japan —  covers  a  level  plain,  at  the  base  of 
surrounding  ranges  of  mountains,  with  a  sea  of  brown  roofs  above  which  rise  the  white 
walls  and  towers  of  the  ten  thousand  temples  that  give  the  city  its  "  holy  "  character. 
Kioto  is  in  the  southern  part  of  the  island  of  Niphon,  not  far  from  the  city  of  Osaka  with  which 
it  is  connected  by  railway,  and  some  three  hundred  miles  from  Tokio  to  the  northeast  with  which 
it  is  connected  by  the  splendid  national  road  known  as  the  Tokaido.  The  population  is  variously 
estimated  as  from  two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  to  half  a  million.  The  river  Kano  cuts  through 
the  city,  supplying  it  with  the  purest  of  water ;  its  streets  are  clean,  its  temples  beautiful  and  its 
silk  factories  widel}'  celebrated. 

It  is  for  its  temples  however  that  Kioto  is  mainly  celebrated.  There  are  within  the  city 
limits  10,014  Buddhist  and  Shinto  temples  and  the  religious  buildings  and  tlie  grounds  around 
them  are  the  most  interesting  features  of  Kioto  to  strangei-s. 

Of  these  temples  the  largest  and  most  venerable  is  the  Buddhist  temple  of  Ki-yo-midzu,  built 
eleven  hundred  years  ago.  It  is  built  on  a  steep  mountain  side  and  possesses  a  curious  wooden 
image  called  Biusurusaw  which  has  the  healing  property  to  so  great  an  extent  that  the  afflicted 
believes  by  rubbing  his  sore  spot  against  the  corresponding  spot  on  the  image  he  can  experience  an 
immediate  cure.  Here  also  is  the  Dai-Butsu  —  the  "  great  Buddha,"  a  wooden  image  of  the  god 
seventy  feet  high,  but  not  to  be  compared  in  size  or  celebrity  to  the  real  Dai-Butsu  erected  at 
ancient  Nara,  midway  between  Kioto  and  Osaka. 

For  more  than  a  thousand  years  Kioto  was  the  religious  capital  of  Japan,  the  residence  of  the 
Mikado,  the  sacred  ruler,  and  the  oldest  dynasty  on  earth.  It  is  tonlay  "  the  most  be-templed 
city  "  in  the  world  and  has  a  stirring  history  of  war,  rebellion,  sieges,  fire,  earthquake  and  flood. 
Of  its  appearance  to-chiy  Miss  Bird  says  :  "  With  its  schools,  hospitals,  lunatic  asylum,  prisons, 
dispensaries,  alms-houses,  fountains,  public  parks  and  gardens,  exquisitely  beautiful  cemeteries 
and  streets  of  almost  painful  cleanliness,  Kioto  is  the  best  arranged  and  best  managed  city  in 
Japan."  The  old  palace  of  the  Mikado  is  now  a  public  museum  of  arts  and  manufactures  and  the 
spirit  of  progress  that  is  emancipating  Japan  will  soon  revolutionize  even  this  center  of  pagan  life 
and  worship. 


PITTSBURG. 

THE  "  City  of  Smoke  "  is  a  smoky  city  no  longer,  nor  lias  it  been  since  the  year  1884.     All 
descriptions  of  it  prior  to  that  date  are  quite  obsolete.     Natural  Gas,  itself  the  issue  of 
darkness,  has  been  the  means  of  dispelling  darkness.     The  pillar  of  cloud  l)y  day  and  the 
pillar  of  fire  by  night  that  have  hitherto  attended  Pittsburg  on  her  onward  industrial  march  have 
departed,  but  she  advances  none  the  less  surely  on  that  account. 

At  last  Pittsburg  has  become  the  beautiful  city  Nature  intended  it  to  be,  when  she  furnished 
it  with  bluffs  and  valleys  and  girded  it  with  streams  as  mirrors  for  its  countenance.  The  meeting 
and  blending  of  the  two  rivers  (Alleghany  and  Monongahela)  into  a  single  largei-  river  (the  Ohio) 
and  of  their  valleys  into  a  larger  valley,  makes  for  one  whose  point  of  view  is  lofty  enough  a  huge 
letter  Y,  in  the  crotch  of  which  like  a  bird's  nest  in  a  tree-crotch  rests  the  city  itself.  The  first 
three  quarters  of  a  mile  or  so  back  from  the  vertex  of  the  angle  thus  formed  is  an  industrial  plain 
terminated  somewhat  abruptly  by  high  bluffs  that  in  turn  terminate  on  each  side,  so  as  to  leave 
liowever,  strips  of  low  land  a  few  hundred  yards  wide  between  themselves  and  the  river  margins, 
over  which  such  of  the  huge  machine  shops  and  foundries  as  can  find  no  room  in  the  plain, 
sprawl  for  a  distance  of  six  or  seven  miles. 

1-28 


GREAT  CITIES   OF   THE    WOULD. 


129 


Pittsburg  is  to-day  a  great  railway  center,  and  yet  there  probably  never  lias  been  a  time 
since  it  was  enough  of  a  place  to  deserve  any  recognition  whatever,  that  manufacturing  luus  iiot 
dominated  its  life.  It  is  as  truly  a  product  of  the  iron  mines  as  San  Francisco  of  the  gold  mines, 
as  distinctively  the  Lit)n  City  of  America  as  Fiirniingham  of  Enghmd. 

liy  the  census  of  1880  Pennsylvania  manufactured  about  fifty  per  cent,  of  all  the  iron  in  the 
country,  and  Alleghany  County,  one  fourth  of  the  iron  in  Pennsylvania.  So  that  Pittsbui-g 
may  be  said  to  have  practically  manufactured  twelve  and  one  half  per  cent,  tn-  one  eighth  of  all 
the  iron  manufactured  in  the  United  States.  It  had,  in  1887,  nineteen  blast  fuinaces  and  lifty-six 
iron  and  steel  mills  whose  product  was  three  hundred  and  twenty  thousand  tons  of  iron  pipes, 
three  hundred  and  sixty  thousand  tons  of  Bessemer  steel,  forty-two  thousand  tons  of  crucible 
steel,  one  hundred  and  thirty-two  thousand  tons  of  railwa}'  supplies,  three  hundred  and  sixty 
thousand  tons  of  rails  —  one  thousand  for  almost  every  day  in  the  year  —  and  tw(j  hundred  loco- 
motives—  one  for  every  other  day  in  the  year  and  some  to  spare.  Steam  engines,  fire-proof  safes, 
chains,  nuts,  bolts  and  nails  are  the  other  most  important  iron  manufactures. 

Second  in  signilicance  only  to  the  iron  and  steel  industry,  both  in  extent  and  age  is  the  glass 
industry.  The  first  window-glass  works  were  opened  in  179G,  four  3'ears  after  the  setting  up  of 
the  first  iron  furnace.  Today  there  aie  over  seventy-live  glass  factories  in  the  city,  the  plate  glass 
product  alone  averaging  over  two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  square  feet  per  month,  to  tmy  nothing 
of  window  glass,  bottles  and  lamp  chimneys.  Oil  refining  is  also  very  important,  but  by  no  means 
what  it  ought  to  be  considering  that  Pittsburg  is  the  natural  metropolis  and  business  center  of  the 
oil  district.  The  iron,  steel,  glass  and  oil  industries  are  so  gigantic  that  every  other  dwindles 
\uululy  in  comparison,  lint  Pittsbuig  certainly  ought  to  be  accorded  the  credit  of  having  the 
largest  cork  factory  iii  the  world,  and  some  aluminum  works,  a  new  venture  upon  the  success  or 
failure  of  which  mighty  destinies  are  hanmntr- 


^^K^v  ok  pittsbukg  fko.m  coal  hill. 


A  RAINY   DAY  IX  PI'BI.IN   STREETS. 


DUBLIN. 


DUBLIN,  the  town  of  the  "  Black  PooL"  the  capital  of  Ireland,  is  a  city  of  curious  contvastis, 
full  of  lights  and  shadows,  like  the  Irisli  nation  itself.     A  city  of  splendid  houses  and 
of   rude   shanties,   where   squalor  jostles   magnificence,   and  a   stately   mansion   stands 
almost  side  bj-  side  with  poor  tumble-down  residences,  inhabited  by  people  whom  scarcely  a  vivid 
imagination  dare  call  the  "deserving  poor." 

The  city's  plan  is  simple  enough.  From  east  to  west  the  River  Liffej-  flows  through  the 
center,  and  bridges  connect  the  long"  lines  of  streets  running  in  parallel  lines  north  and  south. 
The  most  imposing  avenue  is  Sackville  Street,  "  one  of  the  finest  thoroughfares  in  Europe," 
although  its  long  vista  is  somewhat  broken  by  the  Nelson  Pillar,  a  beautiful  fluted  Doric  column, 
soaring  to  a  height  of  one  hundred  and  thirty-four  feet.  Westmoreland  Street,  too,  with  its  Bank 
of  England,  is  a  fine,  broad  street.  Still,  there  is  no  uniformity  in  the  buildings  of  Dublin ;  owing 
to  the  want  of  a  building  act,  high  jostles  low  and  splendor  elbows  shabby  gentility ;  within  the 
last  twent}'  yeare  many  of  the  wealthy  Dublin  merchants  have  built  spacious  country-seats  in  large 
gardens  outside  the  town,  so  that  the  population  has  apparently  decreased,  although  it  numbers 
two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  souls ;  or  with  its  suburbs  nearly  three  hundred  and  fifty 
thousand. 

The  site  of  the  ancient  city  in  the  southwest  corner  had  for  years  a  rather  unsavory  reputation 
for  irregularity  and  filth ;  although  somewhat  improved,  still,  the  drainage  of  tlie  city,  which 
pours  into  the  River  Liffey,  does  not  add  to  its  salubrity,  the  high  death-rate  being  twentj^-seven 
in  every  thousand.  In  this  part  of  the  city  lie  Christ's  Church  and  the  old  and  interesting 
Cathedral  of  St.  Patrick  with  its  foundation  dating  back  to  1190. 

Above  the  southern  half  of  the  city,  on  an  eminence  tower  the  grim  brick  walls  of  Dublin 
Castle,  which  an  Irish  patriot  has  forcibly  termed  a  "  stronghold  of  liell." 

130 


GREAT  CITIES   OF  THE   WOULD. 


131 


Within  tlie  past  few  years  the  hot  Irish  blood,  (loaded  hy  recent  acts  of  Enj^land,  has  run 
high  in  Dublin,  and  temperate  men  of  both'  parties  iiave  denounced  some  of  its  manifestation. 
Just  outside  the  cit}'  lies  the  beautiful  Phoenix  Park  with  its  1759  acres  of  woodland  and  meadow, 
its  solitude  broken  only  by  tlie  Vice-Regal  and  C'liief-Secretary's  Lodges.  Here,  in  the  beautiful 
season  when  these  lodges  are  inhabited,  was  committed  the  auilacious  political  muidcr  of  r'avcn- 
disli  and  Burke  which  startled  the  whole  civilized  world. 

For  yccars  to  come  it  is  to  be  feared  Dublin  will  be  memorable  rather  for  that  Imsty  deed,  than 
for  her  beautiful  Trinity  College  founded  by  ''good  Queen  Bess,"  her  picturesque  environs,  or  her 
many  charital)le  or  scientific  institutions,  which  are  of  a  size  and  character  of  which  any  city  may 
be  justly  proud. 


rnCEXIX   PAKK,   DUBLIN. 


SEOUL. 


IN  the  Hermit  Kingdom  —  Corea,  the  "Land  of  Morning  Calm,"  that  vast  peninsula  jutting  out 
from  Northern  China,  between  the  Yellow  Sea  and  the  Sea  of  Japan  —  is  Seoul,  its  capital 
city.  It  is  the  chief  town  of  the  province  of  Kieng-Kee  and  is  the  residence  of  the  imperial 
court  of  (^crea.  It  is  not  an  imposing  city  and  scarce  even  picturesque.  It  is  situated  on  the 
Kiang  River  not  far  from  the  Yellow  Sea,  and  is  surrounded  with  high,  thick  walls  of  masonry, 
nearly  a  thousand  paces  in  circuit.  "  The  only  buildings  in  Seoul,"  says  Mr.  Lanman,  "  honored 
with  tiled  roofs,  excepting  the  king's  residence,  are  a  single  temple  and  one  government  depart- 
ment." The  castle  of  the  king,  built  of  cut  stone,  has  a  certain  air  of  strength  and  importance. 
The  houses  of  the  city  are  all  thatched  and  built  on  one  pattern.  They  are  as  miserable  as  are  the 
inhabitants  of  this  great,  overgrown,  ignorant,  proud,  suspicious  and  inhospitable  oriental  city  of 
over  a  quarter  of  a  million.  But  even  here  the  wall  of  exclusiveness  is  being  slowly  levelled. 
Civilization  i.s  knocking  at  the  gates  of  Seoul  and  the  '•  Land  of  Morning  Calm  "  will  know  in 
time  the  morning  dawn. 


VIEW    ol     UI;^;^1)KN. 


DRESDEN. 


NEAR  the  mountains  of  "Saxon  Switzerland,""  in  a  fertile  and  picturesque  valley  of  the 
Saxon  wine-distrit't,  on  both  sides  of  the  Elbe,  here  crossed  by  two  beautiful  stone  bridges, 
lies  the  capital  of  Saxony,  the  art-center  of  Germany,  Dresden. 

Divided  by  the  curving  stream  of  the  Elbe,  the  Altstadt  on  the  south,  with  its  pii'turesque 
promenades  overlying  the  site  of  the  old  fortifications  which  the  Fi-ench  raised,  is  very  picturesque 
—  the  houses  are  lofty,  and,  though  the  streets  m  this  old  part  are  somewhat  narrow  and  dingy, 
an  air  of  German  thrift  and  cleanliness  pervades  the  wdiole.  In  the  Neustadt  the  streets  ai-e 
wider,  the  open  squares  more  frequent,  the  modern  houses  lower  and  broader,  and  a  general  sense 
of  air  and  space  replaces  the  crowded  picturesqueness  of  the  older  pait. 

Close  by  the  old  stone  bridge  lies  the  beautiful  Briihl  terrace,  originally  a  garden  designed  by 
the  minister  of  Augustus  TIL,  and  a  favorite  promenade  until  its  approaches  were  somewhat  spoilt 
by  the  erection  of  new  buildings  on  the  Elbe's  banks.  Also  in  the  Altstadt,  in  the  spacious  open 
square  to  which  the  bridge  leads,  lies  the  extensive  Palace,  four  hundi-ed  and  fifty  years  old,  to 
which  the  magnificence-loving  Augustus  the  Strong,  the  Lorenzo  de  Medici  of  Dresden,  made 
many  additions  in  the  early  part  of  the  eighteenth  century. 

Opposite  the  palace  lies  the  museum  which  constitutes  the  northeast  wing  of  the  Zwinger  begun 
b\^  Augustus  11.  in  1711.  In  these  two  buildings  are  housed  the  most  famous  of  all  Dresden's  far- 
famed  works  of  art;  and  here,  from  all  over  the  world,  especially  from  America,  lovers  of  art 
congregate  in  this  Florence  of  Germany.  Here  the  mild-eyed  Sistine  Madonna,  with  the  inspired 
face,  looks  down  from  the  walls  of  the  "  finest  picture-gallery  iu  Europe." 

132 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE    WOULD. 


13 


oo 


In  the  Museum  Johanneum,  anotlier 
sort  of  art,  rococo  in  style,  hut  extjuis- 
ite  in  finish,  the  glory  of  Dresden  is 
(lisphiyed.  Over  fifteen  thousand  speci- 
mens of  delicate  porcelain,  much  of  it 
of  the  finest  Dresden  ware,  chronolog- 
ically arranged  from  the  discovery  ot 
the  art,  are  here  displayed.  The  Royal 
Porcehiin  manufactory,  where  these  ex- 
quisite works  were  designed,  lies  at 
Meissen,  fifteen  miles  out  of  Dresden  ; 
over  the  crossed  swords  which  form 
the  menacing  plate-mark  of  the  Dres- 
den china,  the  secret  of  its  manufac- 
ture was  jealously  guarded  until  the 
Prussians  occupied  the  picturesque  old 
town  during   the   Seven  Years'    War,   when   Dresden  as   well  as   Meissen   suffered  so  severely. 

Time  would  fail  to  tell  of  the  various  attractions,  artistic  and  natural,  of  Dresden  ;  formerly 
one  of  tlie  cheapest  capitals  in  Europe  in  which  to  reside,  it  is  now,  on  account  of  its  beautiful 
situation  and  numerous  advantages,  one  of  the  dearest.  Still,  in  its  environs,  along  the  mountain- 
bordered  banks  of  the  Elbe,  lie  many  castle-crowned  heights  and  picturesque  villages,  where,  in 
the  little  mountain  inns,  "  plain  living  and  high  thinking  "  may  be  cultivated.  From  these,  as  a 
point  d'appui,  the  art-treasures  of  Dresden  may  be  reverently  approached  and  carefully  studied  by 
the  student  who  is  forced  to  combine  economy  with  love  of  art.  A  residence  of  many  months  in 
Dresden's  neighborhood  will  not  suffice  to  exhaust  her  numerous  attractions,  or  render  common- 
place her  infinite  variety. 


BKIDGE   OVKK   THK    KLBli. 


LISBON. 


STRETCHING  nearly  five  miles  along  the  banks  of  the  Tagus  and  extending  northward  over 
the  hills  to  a  width  of  nearl}'  three  miles,  the  capital  of  the  Kingdom  of  Portugal,  Lisbon, 
with  its  fields  and  its  gairdens,  its  handsome  squares,  straight  streets  and  lofty  houses,  its 
arches,  statues,  palaces,  parliament  buildings,  theaters  and  public  places,  is  a  city  of  much  interest, 
of  a  certain  historical  importance,  and  a  fair  commercial  standing.  Its  most  active  commerce  is 
with  Brazil  and  Great  Britain.  It  is  the  largest  port  in  the  little  Kingdom  of  Portugal  and  1x)asts 
of  being  the  birth-place  of  two  famous  men  —  St.  Anthon}-  of  Padua  and  Camoens,  Portugal's 
greatest  poet. 

The  palace  of  the  King  is  in  the  handsome  suburb  of  Belem.  It  was  intended  to  .be  one  of 
the  largest  palaces  in  Europe,  but  has  never  been  finished.  Her  churches,  though  numerous,  are 
neither  great  nor  grand  ^- that  of  the  Estrella.  suggesting  St.  Paul's  in  London,  being  the  most 
striking.  Ancient  Lisbon  clustei's  about  the  rocky  hill  on  which  stands  the  citadel  of 'St.  George. 
The  old  town  is  cut  by  narrow  and  tortuous  streets,  suggesting  the  Moors  and  still  retains  its  old 
Moorish  name,  Alfama.  The  new  town  is  in  that  section  of  the  city  which  was  rebuilt  after  the 
gi'eat  earthquake  of  1755.  Its  streets  are  straight,  its  buildings  lofty,  and  of  its  four  squares  the 
handsomest  is  the  Praqa  do  Commercio  fronting  the  river  and  surrounded  by  handsome  public 
buildings. 

The  cit}-  is  quaint,  interesting  and  attractive,  and  affords  study  alike  for  the  antiquarian  wlio 
traces  its  many  centuries  of  existence,  and  for  the  lover  of  progress  who  sees  how  surely  the  new 
and  convenient  is  crowding  the  old  and  traditional. 


BARCELONA. 


LARGE  brick  buildings, 
long  bouudaiy  walls, 
piles  of  bnikling  mate- 
rials, smoking  towers,  factories 
and  workmen —  a  dulf,  diffused, 
incieasing  sound  like  the  labor- 
ed breath  of  a  great  city  that 
is  moviTig  and  working  —  and 
all  about  it,  the  port,  the  sea,  a 
wreath  of  hills  —  Barcelona  I "" 
Such  is  the  Italian  traveler, 
De  Amicis',  first  impression  of 
the  pleasant  city  that  is  the 
industrial  and  commercial  cen- 
ter of  Eastern  Spain  —  a  city 
which  in  its  prime  Avas  the 
rivtal  of  Genoa  and  Venice,  and 
which  to-day  is  the  home  of  an 
intelligent,  industrious,  gay  and 
pleasure-loving  population  of 
some  two  hundred  and  seventy 
thousand  souls. 

The  main  street  of  the 
city  is  the  Kambla,  broad  and 
straight,  shaded  by  two  rows 
of  trees  and  crossing  nearly 
the  entire  city.  The  seashore 
is  flanked  by  a  spacious  prome- 
nade and  to  the  north  lies  the 
new  city,  an  addition  since 
1860,  elaboiately  laid  out  and 
almost  English  in  inchitecture. 
"  On  all  the  surrounding 
lieights,"  says  De  Amicis,  "  ri.se 
villas ;  little  palaces  and  facto- 
ries which  dispute  the  ground 
jostle  each  other,  appearing  one 
behind  the  other  until  they 
fojm  a  great  wreath  around 
the  city.  On  every  side  there 
is  manufacturing,  transforming 
and  renovating.     Her  people  work  and  prosper  and  Barcelona  flourishes." 

The  industries  of  this  busy  Spanish  city  are  many  —  tlie  spinning  and  weaving  of  wool,  cotton 
and  silk  being  the  most  important.  Barcelona's  shipping  trade  is  extensive  ;  its  exports  and 
imports  ai-e  considerable ;  its  harbor  is  now  fairly  good  and  its  railway  communications  and 
facilities  are  ample. 

Prominent  among  the  city's  buildings  are  the  Cathedral,  six  hundred  years  in  building  and 
not  yet  finished,  the  University  in  the  new  town,  the  Liceo,  one  of  the  largest  and  most  beautiful 
theaters  in  Europe,  wliile  in  the  Street  of  Paradise,  '^ost  in  the  midst  of  modern  houses,"  are 
several  enorraons  Roman  cohunns,  relics  of  the  old  day  when  the  world's  conquerors  wrested  the 
city  from  its  Carthaginian  founders. 

134 


SANTIAGO. 


THE  capital  of  Chili  is  framed  about  with  some  of  the  most  magnificent  scenery  in  the  world. 
It  is  in  the  center  of  a  lovely  valley,  encompassed  l)y  shapely  mountains  of  magnificent 
proportions.  With  so  gi-and  and  inspiring  a  pageant  always  to  be  seen  from  its  Alameda 
and  its  Santa  Lucia,  Santiago,  according  to  Mr.  Ford,  has  not  neglected  its  opi)ortunities.  "  It  is," 
he  says,  "a  handsome  and  impressive  city,  with  beautiful  parks,  striking  architectnral  effects  in  its 
public  buildings  and  churches,  and  ordei'ly,  well-kept  lines  of  streets.  The  sole  source  of  disfigure- 
ment is  the  river  flowing  through  the  town,  which  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year  labors  under  the 
disadvantage  of  not  having  any  water  in  it,  but  this  is  shielded  from  view  by  walls  and  embank- 
ments and  rendered  as  sightly  as  possible." 

The  population  of  the  city  is  very  neaily  two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand.  The  main  plaza 
has  the  Post-Oflice  and  Government  buildings  on  one  side,  the  ambitious  fagade  of  the  Grand 
Hotel  on  another,  and  the  Cathedral,  with  a  cross,  high  in  air,  to  demonstrate  a  sacred  character 
which  its  general  architectural  lines  do  not  reveal.  The  Capitol  is  a  block  away,  a  massive  struc- 
ture, with  two  high  stories  and  a  flat  roof  and  lines  of  shapely  columns  at  the  entrances  on  each 
side.  It  is  the  handsomest  and  most  imposing  hall  of  deputies  to  be  seen  in  South  America,  and 
is  surrounded  by  well-kept,  if  narrow,  grounds,  with  one  graceful  and  finely  proportioned  statue 
near  the  main  entrance.  The  National  Library  is  close  by,  with  the  palaces  of  justice  adjoining. 
The  University  of  Santiago  is  a  stately  structure,  and  it  has  well-equipped  faculties  and  appliances 
for  higher  education.  Probably  no  university  in  South  America  has  a  better  academic  reputation 
or  is  doing  a  larger  work.  The  astronomical  observatory  has  lovely  surroundings  in  a  well-shaded, 
semi-tropical  garden.  The  Parque  Cousino  and  the  Quinta  Diaz  Gana  also  have  charming  sites 
and  are  most  picturesque  structures.  The  Quinta  Normal  is  a  horticultural  garden  and  museum 
of  natural  history,  with  fine  grounds  tastefully  laid  out.  Santiago  abounds  in  good  architecture 
of  a  classic  type  and  in  public  gardens  and  promenades  of  genuine  natural  attractions.  With 
excellent  hotels,  good  theaters,  fine  drives,  and  objects  of  interest  which  cannot  be  exhausted  in 
a  fortnight  of  industrious  sight-seeing,  it  has  evei-ything  to  attract  and  charm  a  traveler.  With 
the  exception  of  Rio,  there  is  scarcely  a  South  American  city  as  interesting  as  is  Santiago. 

The  Alameda  is  a  broad  avenue  over  two  miles  long,  with  double  lines  of  trees  and  a  series  of 
monuments  and  statues  commemorative  of  the  public  services  and  heroic  deeds  of  various  patriots. 

Santa  Lucia,  once  a  neglected  and  barren  rock  in  the  heart  of  the  city,  it  is  now  the  best 
pleasure-ground  of  the  capital.  It  is  approached  by  winding  carriage  roads  and  shaded  walks,  is 
ornamented  with  terraces,  parterres  of  flowers,  artistic  balustrades,  rustic  arbors,  a  chapel,  a 
statue,  and  a  series  of  high  lookouts  commanding  magnificent  prospects  of  the  Andes,  the  Mari- 
time Range  and  the  capital  itself.  There  is  a  theater  here  on  the  highest  ground  in  the  city,  and 
also  an  excellent  restaurant.  The  flowers  and  vines  on  this  lofty  rock,  overhanging  the  Alameda, 
are  kept  fresh  and  beautiful  by  constant  watering,  and  Santai  Lucia  is  the  most  pictures(|ue  and 
artistic  feature  of  the  capital. 


BORDEAUX. 

THE  old  city  of  the  Gauls,  the  commercial  and  educational  center  of  the  Roman  provinces  of 
Aquitania — the  walls  and  towers,  the  schools  and  palaces  of  Burdigala  had  an  ancient 
fame  and  state  that  the  modern  Bordeaux  still  possesses.     The  Bordeaux  of  tonlay  is  one 
of  the  finest  and  wealthiest  of  French  cities,  with  a  well-wharfed  harbor,  a  fertile  environment,  wide, 
well-paved  streets  (in  the  new  section),  handsome  housing  and  imposing  public  buildings.     Few 
European  cities  have  so  striking  a  water-front,  few  can    boast  of   a  more  notable  collection  nf 

1.3.5 


136 


GREAT  CITIES   OF  THE   WORLD. 


educational  institutions. 
Its  libraiy,  dating  from 
1566,  contains  two  hun- 
dred thousand  volumes ; 
its  chief  hospital,  that  of 
St.  Andrd,  was  founded 
in  1390.  It  lias  a  mag- 
nificent asylum  for  the 
deaf  and  dumb,  fine 
theaters,  schools  of  theol- 
ogy, law,  science,  litera- 
ture, medicine  and  navi- 
gation, and  its  principal 
square  is  adorned  not 
with  effigies  of  bloody 
warriors  and  tyrant  kings, 
but  of  Montaigne,  the  es- 
sayist, and  Montesquieu, 
the  philosopher. 

It  has  an  extensive  trade,  that,  in  wines  being  the  most  prominent,  and  the  days  of  railway 
and  steamship  have  given  tlie  ancient  city  a  wonderful  impetus.  The  streets  and  buildings  of  the 
old  town  are  narrow  and  picturesque  and  the  Palais  Gallicnus  is  really  an  old  Roman  amphitheater 
of  the  third  century.  Ship-building  is  a  leading  industry,  and  the  broad  basin  into  which  the 
river  Garonne  widens  affords  splendid  harborage  and  is  crossed  by  a  magnificent  stone  bridge  built 
on  seventeen  arches. 


ih    111  il;iiK Al  X.. 


EDINBURGH. 


AFTER  all  is  said,  there  is  no  place  like  Edinburgh.     London  and  Paris  themselves  do  not 
compare  in  charm  with  this  wind-swept  capital  of  the  Scottish   Highlands ;    despite   her 
l)leak  climate,  tliere  is  an  Italian-like  charm  about  the  juxtaposition  of  New  and  Old  that 
year  after  year  brings  the  tourist  back  to  gaze  from  her  crags  upon  the  castle-crowned  lieights. 

Sit  in  your  big  window  in  the  splendid  Royal  Hotel  facing  Prince's  Street,  "  perhaps  the  finest 
street  in  all  Europe,"  with  its  broad  pavements,  its  equestrian  statues,  its  sjilendid  stores,  their 
windows  glistening  with  cairngorms,  Scotch  plaids  and  tartans  in  brilliant  reds  and  greens  and 
blues,  and  watch  the  crowds  of  tall,  handsome  men  and  finely-dressed  women  sweep  b}'. 

From  the  kaleidoscopic  gayety  of  the  New  Edinbuigh  you  look  across  to  the  grim,  smoky 
"Auld  Reekie,"  Between  the  past  and  the  present,  the  Cowgate  with  its  twelve-story-high  gabled 
houses  crowding  each  other  in  narrow  "  wynds,"  and  the  Broadway  of  Prince's  Street  lined  with 
hotels  and  clubhouses,  a  great  gulf  is  fixed :  but  its  depths  are  filled  by  the  smiling  Prince's 
Gardens  clad  in  living  green,  and  the  Old  and  New  are  connected  by  the  Moiind  and  the  Waverley 
Bridge,  under  which  whiz  the  frequent  trains.  Between  you  and  the  Castle  Heights,  limned 
against  the  sky,  soars  the  magnificent  cathedral-like  moiuiment  to  the  "  Wizard  of  tlie  North."  It 
is  fitting  that  between  the  Old  and  the  New  town  the  eye  shguld  rest  on  this  link  between  the 
past  and  the  present,  and  that  the  statue  of  Sir  Walter  Scott  enthroned  in  its  delicately  carved 
Gothic  arch  should  be  the  tie  that  binds  the  sunny  foreground  to  the  dark  but  picturesque  past. 

Across  the  ravine  in  the  Old  Town,  even  despite  the  revolutionar}-  improvements  of  Mr. 
Chambers,  though  a  few  curious  corners  have  V)een  swept  away  by  the  broom  of  progress,  there  is 
still  much  of  picturesqueness  untouched.     The  well-smoked  Old  Town  with  its  "  cliff  of  building-s 


^  i 


t  ^ 


pi     f- 

n 

c    =■. 
^  I 


E^     5 


138 


GKEAT   CITIES    OF   THE   WORLD. 


STATm  OF  Sm   WALTER  SCOTT. 


which  liangs  immhieut  over  Waverley  Bridge," 
would  still  put  majiy  natural  precipices  to  shame. 
Out  of  dusty  windows  ten  stories  above  the  ground, 
the  poor  man  may  gaze  across  the  green  gulf  of 
Prince's  Gardens  into  the  homes  of  the  Avealthy 
with  their  squares  and  parks  or  look  off  towards  the 
shimmering  sea. 

Tlie  best  view  point  is  the  Castle.  It  is  the 
embodied  essence  of  Edinburgh's  history  from  the 
time  when  Edwin,  king  of  Northumbria,  founded  a 
fortress  on  the  Castle  Rock  in  617  to  the  occupation 
of  the  city  by  Prince  Charles  Edward  in  1745  ;  more 
than  a  thousand  years  of  stirring  Scottish  history 
when  the  pibrocli  played  and  the  clans  marfthed  out 
to  fight  for  the  Prince  and  the  Right  lie  buried  in 
its  grim  old  walls  that  now  hold  the  precious  crown 
jewels.  It  is  a  breathless  climb  to  the  craggy  height 
where  only  the  wild  shrubs  can  cling ;  as  we  enter 
by  the  draw-bridge,  cross  the  old  moat,  pass  under 
the  portcullis  and  face  the  big  cannon  "  Mons  Meg," 
the  pride  of  Scotland,  the  magnificent  view  of  the 
eit}'  with  the  Firth  of  Forth  and  the  Highland 
Hills  in  the  background  chains  us  to  the  spot. 
Far  below  lies  the  spire  of  St.  Giles.  Close  to  it 
between  the  Cowgate  and  High  Street  lies  the  Par- 
liament House,  built  on  a  slope  and  rising  one  story 
to  the  north  and  half  a  dozen  to  the  south  ;  here  history  was  made,  here  the  legal  lights  of  the 
Scottish  bar  still  plead  before  the  judges  in  the  self-same  spot  where  Scott  sat  and  wrote  many 
a  page  of  Waverley  to  the  "drone  of  judicial  proceeding."  Beyond  St.  Giles  rises  the  high 
steeple  of  the  Tron  Church  ;  following  the  south,  back  of  Cowgate  in  the  same  direction  the  eye 
rests  upon  the  quadrangle  of  Holyrood  in  the  grassy  Queen's  Park  which  nestles  at  the  foot  of 
Salisbury  Crags  and  the  rugged  Arthur's  Seat,  eight  hundred  and  twenty-two  feet  above  the  sea. 
The  charming  Queen's  Drive  encircles  the  crags  ;  but  it  is  a  stiff  though  short  climb  to  Arthur's 
Seat.  Here,  instead  of  being  in  the  center,  as  on  the  Castle  Heights,  you  are  at  the  end  of  the 
town  ;  its  mass  of  gables  and  spires,  its  green  gardens,  its  Waverley  Station  in  the  heart  of  the 
town  buried  between  the  Old  and  the  New,  all  rise  before  you.  Across  the  narrowing  triangle  of 
the  Old  Town  lies  Calton  Hill,  another  of  the  three  heights  upon  which  Edinburgh,  like  Boston, 
prides  herself ;  but  even  the  hardy  Scotchman  would  scarcely  build  his  cot  where  the  "  angry 
airt "  and  the  "  cauld  blast "  reigns  supreme  and  no  plaidie  would  avail  for  shelter. 

In  the  Old  Town,  about  one  third  of  the  way  between  the  Meadows  and  the  West  Prince's 
Street  Garden,  which  skirt  the  base  of  the  Castle 
cliff,  rise  the  massive  walls  of  Edinburgh  Univer- 
sity, founded  b)^  James  the  Sixth  in  1582.  In 
1887  three  thousand,  six  hundred  students,  taught, 
quizzed,  lectured  and  examined  by  one  liundred 
and  sixteen  teachers  made  Bristo  Street  and 
Meadow  Walk  lively  with  their  pranks.  The  two 
thousand  students  of  the  jVIedical  School  are 
housed  in  a  handsome  new  Renaissance  building 
costing  nearly  one  and  a  quarter  million  dollars. 
The  University  library  of  one  hundred  and  fifty 
thousand  volumes  is  rivalled  only  by  the  Advo- 
cates' Librar}^  of  three  hundred  thousand,  the 
largest  in  Scotland. 


THE    CASTI.K    Illl.r. 


DETROIT. 


DF/rUOIT  is  the  oldest  of  all  the  Western  cities  —  so  nmcli  tlie  oldest  that  it  can  l)e  truly  said 
to  be  a  whole  century  in  advance  of  the  natural  proj^ress  of  emigration  westward.  Like 
New  Orleans  it  has  given  in  allegiance  to  three  different  powers,  having  been  by  turns  a 
French  village,  an  English  town  and  an  American  city,  and  like  New  Orleans  again,  it  lias  had  a 
large  portion  of  romance. 

To-day  Detroit  is  a  beautiful  city.  It  has  shaded  streets,  broad  avenues,  creditable  public 
buildings,  attractive  residences,  superb  warehouses  and  a  financial  center,  Griswold  Street,  whose 
architecture  is,  according  to  the  authority  quoted  above,  "  as  far  in  advance  of  State  Street  in 
Boston  and  Wall  Street  in  New  York,  as  our  time  is  of  the  last  century." 

The  "  City  of  the  Straits,"  as  Detroit  has  long  Ijeen  called,  is  the  natural  portal  to  "  the  vast 
seas  of  sweet  water."  Its  harbor  has  a  greater  capacity  than  any  other  on  the  whole  chain  of 
lakes.  Indeed  more  vessels  can  ride  at  anchor  there  than  in  the  harbors  of  Buffalo,  Erie,  C'leve- 
land,  Milwaukee  and  Chicago  combined.  Its  shipping  interests  are  therefore  enormous.  More 
vessels  pass  through  the  Detroit  River  every  year  during  the  navigable  period  tlian  come  and  go 
from  New  York  Harbor  during  the  same  time,  and  in  1884  the  city's  tonnage  was  greater  than  that 
of  London,  in  spite  of  the  fact  that  the  river  Avas  frost-bound  for  four  months.  Grain,  lumber, 
copper  and  iron  ore  are  the  most  important  articles  of  transportation,  two  hundred  and  fifty 
million  feet  of  lumber,  for  instance,  being  handled  in  1886. 

The  iron,  steel  and  related  industries  employ  more  hands  than  any  others — stoves,  marine 
boilers,  safes  and  architectural  iron-work  being  their  principal  products,  but  as  an  iron  city  Detroit 
ranks  below  some  other  cities  on  and  in  the  vicinity  of  the  lakes.  It  is  first  in  the  following  par- 
ticulars:  car-wheels,  stoves,  fine  cut  tobacco,  drugs  and  chemicals,  and  capsules,  one  firm  alone 
producing  of  these  last  two  thirds  of  the  entire  product  of  the  United  States.  It  has  the  largest 
freight  car  factory  in  this  country,  the  largest  varnish  works  in  the  world  and  one  of  its  seed 
firms  han^fles  more  seeds  than  any  other  in  existence. 


STOCKHOLM. 

'"T^HE  last  half  of  June  when  the  days  are  long  and  the  twilights  singularly  beautiful,  when  the 
J_  evening  and  the  morning  lights  sjiining  thiough  the  young  and  springing  verdure  produce 
fairy-like  effects  reflected  from  the  water,  is  the  season  of  all  others  in  which  to  visit  Stock- 
holm, the  capital  of  Sweden  — the  Venice  of  the  North. 

The  area  of  the  present  city  is  nearly  thirteen  square  miles  ;  of  which  about  one  twenty-fifth  is 
water.  Nearly  four  miles  in  length  from  north  to  south,  its  circumference  measures  fourteen  and 
one  quarter  miles.  In  Staden,  the  narrow  and  winding  streets,  with  some  few,  houses  (preserved 
from  fire)  with  verj^  narrow  frontage  and  pointed  gables  turned  towards  the  street  as  in  Belgium 
and  North  Germany,  all  indicate  the  ancient  origin,  ai)d  show  that  this  portiq;i  is  the  old  city. 

Here  is  the  Royal  Palace,  restored  and  enlarged  after  the  fire  of  1697,  and  ]-ich  with  art  treas- 
ures. Near  it  stands  the  ancient  church  of  St.  Nicholas.  Staden  is  also  the  business  center  of 
the  cfty :  here  are  the  Exchange,  the  Banks,  the  Custom-house  and  the  handsome  offices  of  inany 
well-to-do  Stockholm  magnates.  On  its  east  an  immense  qtiay  called  the  Skeppsbro,  serves  as  a 
landing-place  for  the  steamers  which  ply  to  foreign  ports  or  the  northern  ports  of  Sweden. 

Riddarsholm.  an  island  portion  of  the  city,  lying  in  Lake  Miliar,  midway  between  the  north 
and  south  portions  of  the  capital,  contains  the  famous  old  Franciscan  church,  which,  since  the  time 
of  Gustavus  Ailiiljjlius  has  I>een  used  for  the  burial-place  of  the  royal  family.     Near  by  stand  the 

139 


140 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE    WORLD. 


houses  where  the  Storthing,  or  parliament,  is  held  and  the  statue  of  the  founder  of  Stockholm 
looks  down  upon  the  men  who  govern  Sweden  and  Norway  to-day. 

Another  island,  called  the  Island  of  the  Holy  Ghost,  is  somewhat  irreverently  filled  to-day 
with  the  royal  stables. 

The  "  northern  suburb  "  of  Stockholm  rejoices  in  the  large  market  of  Gustavns  Adolphus, 
where  his  statue  stands  ward  between  the  Palace  of  the  Crown  Prince  and  the  Theater  Royal. 

In  another  portion  of  the  city,  which  was  formerly  the  Royal  farmyard,  more  than  forty  thou- 
sand people  reside  and  it  is  now  one  of  the  finest  parts  of  the  city.  A  fine  park,  the  Royal  Library 
and  the  statue  of  Linnaeus,  the  father  of  modern  botany,  are  sights  well  worth  seeing  here.  The 
introduction  of  the  new  water-supply  into  Stockholm  has  greatly  built  up  this  portion. 

In  fact,  water,  salt  as  well  as  fresh,  has  played  a  veiy  important  part  in  Stockholm's  develop- 
ment. Into  all  parts  of  the  city,  from  all  sides  permeates  tlie  water  —  separating  and  yet  uniting. 
In  the  summer  the  city  is  almost  deserted :  as  the  water  stretches  enticingly  away  between  beauti- 
ful islands,  some  o[)en  and  cultivated,  some  bold  and  rock-clad  covered  with  pines  and  beech,  it  seems 
to  beckon  the  inliabitants  away  and  carries  tliem  on  its  bosom  into  the  picturesque  environs.  The 
water,  too,  renders  the  climate  comparatively  mild  and  salubrious  —  although  winter  lasts  seven 
months  in  the  year. 

Only  an  hour's  distance  is  Upsala,  with  its  great  university  sacred  to  Linnaeus  and  its 
splendid  library  —  all  around  are  the  beautiful  suburbs  bordering  on  the  Malar  Lake.  Down  into 
the  heart  of  the  citj-  sometimes  come  the  quaint-clad  peasant  girls  of  Dalecarlia,  with  their 
bright-colored  dresses,  glittering  bodices  and  high-conical  caps  characteristic  of  the  Swedish 
peasantrv.  They  lend  the  charm  and  animation  and  life  to  the  scene,  which  is  bright  and  ani- 
mated enough  at  times  to  suggest  some  Italian  town,  rather  than  a  city  of  the  cold  and  frozen 
North,  especially  down  by  the  quays  at  Staden,  where  fly  the  flags  of  every  nation,  the  blue, 
j'ellow  and  white  of  Sweden  and  the  red.  white  and  blue  of  Norway  predominating ;  while 
Majesty,  in  the  shape  of  King  Oscar,  can  look  out  from  his  study  in  the  Roj-al  Palace  on  the 
picturesque  groups  of  sailors  from  all  climes,  jesting  or  brawling  below  his  study  windows. 


VIKW    OK    &1UCKUOL.M. 


WASHINGTON. 


w 


'ASHINGTON  owes  its  existence  to  a  dinner  party, 
or,  to  be  more  exact,  to  a  i)olitical  bai yain  stiuck 
at  a  dinner  party,  the  boon  bargainers  being 
none  other  than  the  great  leaders  of  the  Federalists  and 
Anti-Federalists,  Alexander  Hamilton  and  T]if)mas  Jeffer- 
son. Each  pledged  himself  and  his  State  delegation  to 
the  support  of  the  darling  project  of  his  lival.  And  so 
Hamilton's  financial  policy  cnlminated  gloiiously  in  the 
assnmption  of  the  State  debts  by  the  Federal  (iovernment, 
and  the  site  of  the  national  capital  was  fixed  on  the 
borders  of  Jefferson's  own  State  of  Vircfinia. 

When  Washington  was  laid  out  the  checker-board 
system  of  Philadelphia  was  followed  with  the  sti-eets, 
but  the  avenues  were  made  to  radiate  transversely  from 
two  foci  a  mile  apart,  on  which  the  Capitol  and  the 
White  House  were  to  stand.  In  respect  to  nomenclature 
also,  the  Philadelphia  system  was  considerably  moclilied. 
The  avenues  were  named  after  the  States,  care  beinsf 
taken  to  avoid  offense  by  assigning  to  the  most  in- 
fluential States  the  most  important  avenues ;  east  and 
west  running  streets  were  designated  by  the  letters  of 
the  alphabet,  and  north  and  south  streets  by  numerals. 
Everything  was  on  a  truly  colossal  scale ;  streets  were 
from  ninety  to  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  wide,  ave- 
nues from  one  hundred  and  twenty  to  one  hundred  aiul 
fifty.  These,  plus  the  open  squares  and  triangles  at  their 
intersections,  equalled  one  half  the  entire  municipal  area 
as  against  an  average  of  one  fourth  in  other  cities.  A 
"city  of  magnificent  distances"  it  certainly  was.  and  for 
the  first  half-cexituiy  —  it  may  as  well  be  admitted  —  that 
was  about  all  it  was.     There  were  streets,  but  no  houses  ;  avenues,  but  no  jieople. 

But  the  great  war  which  changed  so  many  other  things  changed  Washington  as  well,  hi 
those  days  Nation  got  to  mean  more  than  it  had,  and  the  national  capital  ceased  to  be  a  figure-head. 
Out  of  it  came  the  issues  of  life  and  death  and  liberty  for  millions.  People  began  to  live  in  its 
great  empty  spaces ;  so  many  of  them  that  in  the  ten  years  between  1860  and  "70,  the  population 
doubled.  At  the  close  of  the  decade  its  municipal  government  was  exchanged  for  a  territorial 
one,  and  this  was  the  signal  for  the  inauguration  of  a  series  of  improvements  quite  on  a  par  for 
magnitude  with  the  scale  on  which  it  was  originally  laid  out.  Tw^enty  million  dollars  having  been 
spent  in  less  than  four  years.  Congress  not  unnaturally  became  alarmed  at  A\hat  it  deemed  reckless 
extravagance,  abolished  the  territorial  government  and  ap[)ointed  a  commissioner  in  the  hope  of 
immediate  retrenchment.  But  the  commission  Avas  obliged  to  finish  the  work.  The  result  was  a 
debt  of  twenty-thiee  million  dollars  on  a  total  valuation  of  eighty  million  dollars ;  heavier  than  that 
of  any  other  city  in  the  world.  In  1878,  an  act  was  passed  imposing  on  the  United  States  Govern- 
nient  one  half  the  interest  on  the  debt  and  one  half  the  current  expenses,  and  providing  for  a  per- 
manent gnvernment  to  consist  of  three  commissioners  appointed  by  the  President.  This  last 
experiment  has  proved  eminently  successful.  Washington  is  by  far  the  best-governed  city  in 
the  country,  though  in  theory  it  is  something  of  an  anomaly  that  the  citizens  of  the  capital  of  a 
deiuocracy  should  have  absolutely  no  voice  in  city  affairs. 

Now,  all  is  changed.  It  is  indeed  hard  for  any  one  not  on  the  spot  to  realize  the  transforma- 
tion wrought  by  a  score  of  j'ears,  the  last  twelve  of  wdiich  have  l)een  mainly  devoted  to  snpple- 

141 


ihonumt. 


142 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE    WORLD.      • 


THE   CAPITOL   AND   l'EXX6YLVAXIA   AVEXL'E    FROM    THE    WHITE    HOUSE. 


nienting  and  polishing  off  in  details  the  wholesale  repaii-s  of  the  first  eight.  Blank  distances  have 
become  entrancing  vistas,  and  every  intei-section  is  a  point  of  view.  Seventy  thousand  shade  trees 
in  the  streets  alone,  not  to  mention  those  in  the  squares,  add  comfort  and  beautj-,  miles  upon 
miles  of  asphalt  pavement  fissure  pleasant  walks  and  drives  at  all  seasons,  broad  strips  of  close- 
cropped  greensward  line  both  sides  of  the  avenues,  and  red  brick  residences  of  varied  and  elegant 
architecture  give  proof  sufficient  that  Washington  has  felt  as  muoh  as  other  cities  the  influence  of 
the  Renaissance  in  the  art  of  home-building. 

The  Capitol  is  the  largest  Government  building  in  the  world,  its  new  wings  alone  covering  an 
area  greater  than  any  cathedral  except  St.  Peter's.  It  was  many  years  in  assuming  its  present 
form.  George  Washington  laid  the  corner-stone  September  8.  170-3.  The  wings  were  completed 
in  1811,  and  Inirned  only  three  years  later  by  the  Hritish.  In  1827,  the  center  was  completed  and 
in  tlie  meantime  the  wings  had  been  rebuilt.  The  new  dome  was  finished  in  1863  and  the  exten- 
sions to  the  wings  in  1807.  As  it  stands  to-tlay  it  represents  a  cost  of  fifteen  and  one  half  million 
dollars.  The  Rotunda  under  the  dome  is  justly  famous  for  its  loftiness  and  impressiveness,  but 
the  less  said  about  its  decorations  of  painting  and  sculpture  the  better.  About  it  are  grouped  the 
National  Hall  of  Statuary,  the  chambers  of  the  House,  Senate  and  Supreme  Court  and  the  Con- 
gressional Library,  the  largest  collection  of  books  in  the  country.  For  this  last,  however,  a  separate 
building  is  soon  to  be  provided  east  of  the  Capitol,  which  is  to  have  a  capacity  of  four  million 
books,  and  is  estimated  to  cost  four  million,  five  hundred  thousand  dollai-s. 

The  White  House  — so  called  because  it  requires  a  fresli  coat  of  white  paint  annually  to  pre- 
serve its  soft  stone  from  disinteg-ration  —  is  at  tlie  other  end  of  Pennsvlvania  Avenue  from  the 
Capitol,  at  a  distance  of  over  a  mile.  The  two  buildings  were  thus  widely  separated  by  design,  the 
wily  founders  of  the  Government  thinking  thus  to  prevent  too  close  association  between  the 
Executive  and  the  Legislative  departments.  It  has  been  the  home  of  every  President  and  his 
family  except  Washington,  and  consequently  must  have  been  the  scene  of  many  gorgeous  and 
some  ridiculous  spectacles.  It  is  a  mansion  of  considerable  stateliness.  and  considering  the  time  it 
was  built  may  make  some  pretensions  on  the  score  of  elegance.  But  after  all,  it  is  hardly  worthy 
the  chief  of  so  great  a  nation  even  as  a  residence,  and  is  certainly  entirely  inadequate  for  both  this 
and  the  transaction  of  executive  business. 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD. 


14y 


(.)ii  the  east  side  of  the  Wliiie  House  is  the  Treasury,  a  liuge  granite  l)uihUn<(  in  tiie  ionic 
style  which  cost  six  million  dollars ;  on  tlie  west  a  single  structure  devoted  to  the  tliree  depart- 
ments of  State,  War  and  Navy,  just  completed  at  a  cost  of  ten  million  dollars.  Half  a  mile  away 
to  the  south  dominating  all  views  and  closing  all  vistas  stands  the  Washington  Monument,  dedi- 
cated on  Washington's  Birthday,  1885  —  thirty -eight  years  after  the  laying  of  its  corner-stone  —  a 
towering  if  tardy  tribute  to  the  greatest  of  Americans.  It  is  the  highest  stone  structure  in  the 
world,  and  the  highest  artificial  eminence  except  the  Eiffel  Tower.  Its  total  cost  was  one  million, 
two  hundred  thousand  dollars,  three  hundred  thousand  dollars  of  which  was  raised  Ijy  subscription. 

The  Smithsonian  Institution  is  housed  in  a  pile  of  dark  sandstone  Norman  buildings  situated 
in  the  Mall,  south  of  the  Botanical  Gardens  which  are  themselves  adjacent  to  the  Capitol.  Its  en- 
dowment is  the  only  legacy  ever  received  by  the  United  States  government,  and  this,  strangely 
enough,  came  from  an  lilnglishman,  James  Smithson,  a  scientist,  whose  faith  in  the  United  States 
was  only  equalled  by  his  abhorrence  and  distrust  of  the  despotic  Governments  of  the  Old  World. 
He  bequeathed  his  entire  property  of  over  half  a  million  in  these  words  :  "  To  the  United  States 
of  America,  to  found  at  Washington,  under  the  name  of  the  Smithsonian  Institution,  an  establish- 
ment for  the  inci'ease  and  diffusion  of  knowledge  among  men."  The  form  which  the  institution 
assumed,  when  in  184(5  under  the  leadership  of  Professor  Josepli  Henry  it  began  its  work,  was  a 
unique  but  admirable  interpretation  of  the  liberal  provisions  of  the  will.  Its  objects  were  then 
declared  to  be  "  to  prosecute  methods  of  abstruse  research,  and  publish  the  results,"  to  get  together 
"  a  library  of  the  transactions  of  learned  societies  and  records  of  discoveries  and  inventions  "  and 
"a  museuni  illustrative  of  the  resources  of  North  America."  In  pursuance  of  these  objects  it  has 
alieady  attained  large  results.  Next  to  the  Smithsonian  Institution  is  the  National  Museum  — 
five  acres  under  a  single  roof.  Its  collections  are  intensely  interesting  and  cover  a  ver}-  wide 
range,  but  are  not  yet  equal  to  similar  ones  in  Europe.  Among  other  noteworthy  public  edifices 
aie  the  Naval  Observatory,  the  New  Army  and  Nav}'  and  Medical  jNIuseums,  the  C'orcoran  Art 
Gallery,  the  Post-office  —  Corinthian  —  and  the  new  building  of  the  Interior  Department  — 
Doric. 

Such  is  the  city.  Who  are  its  people  ?  One  third  are  negroes,  and  the}-  are  generally 
admitted  to  be  a  very  useful  element.  Of  the  other  two  thirds,  congressmen,  judges,  diplomats, 
politicians,  lobbyists,  army  and  navy  officers  and  Government  employSs  and  their  families  consti- 


TllE    CAPITOL. 


144 


GREAT  CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD. 


MOI'NT    VKItXON. 


■HOMK   OK    WASniXOTON. 


tute  a  inajority.  There  is  besides  a  large  and  rapidly  increasing  number  of  winter  residents,  peo- 
ple of  wealth  and  leisure  who  have  nothing  to  do  with  politics  or  the  Government.  The  scientists 
of  the  departments  are  so  numerous  and  so  al)le  that  tliere  can  no  longer  be  any  doubt  as  to  the 
location  of  the  scientific  center  of  America.  Tliere  are  no  laboring  people  —  in  the  common  sense 
of  that  word  —  inasmuch  as  there  are  no  industries  and  no  commerce.  The  combination  of  the 
above-mentioned  elements  })roduces  an  atmosphere  fii"st  of  all  cosmopolitan  and  second  democratic ; 
it  cannot  in  the  nature  of  the  case  be  local,  provincial  or  even  distinctly  or  narrowly  national. 
Politics  and  society  are  the  foci  of  its  activity,  and  these  two  continually  overlap  although  the 
extent  to  which  politics  have  coai-sened  society  has  just  as  certainly  been  gi'ossly  exaggerated  by 
the  novelists  and  newspapers  as  has  the  biilliance  and  costliness  of  living  in  the  Capital  by  the 
popular  imagination.  "Society  in  New  York,"  says  a  recent  critic  who  has  had  wide  o])po]tunities 
for  observation  in  l)oth  cities,  "is  more  dashing,  exacting,  costly  than  in  Wasjiington,  Imt  it 
occupies  less  space  in  the  public  eye." 

Washington,  beautiful  as  it  is,  is  not  a  finished  cit}-.  But  if  everything  is  not  yet  done,  there  is 
fortunately  almost  nothing  that  needs  to  l)e  undone  or  done  over  —  a  thing  that  can  hardly  be 
said  of  another  city  in  the  New  World  or  the  Old.  It  is  not  a  "  finished  city,"  but  it  is  ready  for 
the  finish.  And  now  that  the  American  people  are  at  last  thoroughly  alive  to  the  fact  that  tliey 
have  a  Capital,  there  is  no  reason  why  it  should  not  ultimately  take  as  proud  a  position  among 
capital  cities  as  the  United  States  has  already  taken  among  the  nations  of  the  woild. 


TURIN. 


IN  a  beautiful  plain  of  North  Italy,  surrounded  by  the  Alps,  lying  on  the  Po  at  its  confluence 
with  a  smaller  stream,  both  rivers  being  spanned  by  noble  arched  stone  bridges,  approached 

from  the  west  by  a  splendid  avenue,  one  of  the  largest  and  finest  in  Eurojje,  few  cities  have  a 
finer  approach  or  a  more  imposing  effect  than  has  Turin  although  its  magnificence  is  mostly 
of  recent  date. 

In  the  modern  city  the  monotony  of  the  broad  streets  intersecting  at  right  angles  is 
relieved  by  the  lofty  houses,  many  witli  rich,  sculptured  faqades  and  beautiful  decorations,  while 
ever  and  anon,  through  the  long  vistaed  streets  break  glorious  glimpses  of  the  Graian  and  Cottian 
Alps  and  sunny  hills,  lending  a  touch  of  brightness  and  beauty  to  the  walls  and  arcaded  streets  of 
the  capital  of  Piedmont. 

For  a  city  of  such  ancient  lineage,  Turin  possesses  few  heirlooms ;  few  Italian  cities  are  so 
poor  in  ancient  buildings;  but,  to  balance  this  lack,  its  modern  edifices  are  numerous  and 
magnificent. 

The  ancient  castle,  the  Palazzo  Madaina  in  the  center  of  the  great  Square  of  the  Piazza 
Castello,  the  heart  of  the  town,  is  the  only  medi£eval  stiaicture  of  which  Turin  can  boast :  its 
beginnings  date  from  the  thirteenth  century  when  it  was  erected  by  William  of  Montserrat. 

In  the  Royal  Palace  is  the  most  interesting  Royal  Armory ;  where  flags,  armor,  swords  and 
all  the  cumbrous  war-machinery  of  the  Middle  Ages  are  displayed.  Another  palace  contains  the 
Picture  Galler)',  which  is  later  in  date  and  distinctly  inferior  to  those  of  most  Italian  cities. 

A  favorite  promenade  is  the  New  Public  Garden,  which  is  thronged  by  a  merry  Italian 
crowd,  especially  in  the  evenings.  Nor  must  the  rniveisit}-,  a  large  and  magnificent  building, 
with  its  students  numbering  nearly  one  thousand,  eight  liundred,  l)e  forgotten. 

Turin's  wealtli,  wliicli  is  great,  is  derived  chiefly  from  her  silk-manufacture,  which  employs  a 
vast  number  of  hands.  Wine  and  liquors,  fruit  and  corn  are  also  staple  articles  of  trade,  and  the 
industry  and  perseverance  of  her  inhal)itants  has  caused  Turin  i-eadily  to  recover  from  the  losses 
inflicted  by  war  and  the  removal  of  the  Court. 

Turin  has  been  the  focus  for  the  Italian  struggles  foi'  unity  and  liberty  ;  many  handsome 
statues  of  her  heroes  adorn  the  spacious  streets  and  courts;  chief  among  which  is  the  monument 
to  Count  Cavour,  erected  by  the  grateful  city  of  his  birth  in  1873.  Its  motto,  "a  free  churcli  in 
a  free  state,"  balanced  by  statues  of  Justice,  Duty,  Policy  and  Independence,  well  represents  the 
spirit  of  United  Italy,  whose  mouthpiece  has  been  the  brave  city  of  Turin. 


MINNEAPOLIS. 

IN  1855  there  was  no  Minneapolis.     To-flay  it  is  a  city  of  two  hundred  thousand  people,  famous 
for  its  enterprise,  its  beauty  and  its  healthful  climate.     It  has  miles  of  busy  streets,  acres  of 
saw  mills,  flour  mills  and  iron  foundries,  four  large  parks,  a  magnificent  system  of  boulevards, 
palatial   residences,  the    Mimiesota  State    University   and   suburbs   with  such   charming   bits   of 
natural  scenery  as  Lake  Minnetonka  and  the  Falls  of  Minnehaha  —  a  city  New  England  in  its 
make-up  and  its  spiiit,  •'  a  new  Boston  in  the  region  of  the  lakes." 

If  it  were  incumbent  upon  one  to.  name  the  factors  which  have  contributed  most  to  the  ex- 
traordinary development  of  ^linneapolis,  the  three  that  Avould  first  suggest  themselves  wouhl  ])e  : 
the  Falls  of  St.  Anthony,  the  wheat  fields  of  Minnesota  and  Dakota,  and  the  invention  of  a  new 
method  of  purifying  middlings. 

14o 


146 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD. 


CITY    HALL    AND   COCUT    UOISE. 


The  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  make 
a  total  descent  of  eighty-two  feet 
within  the  city  limits,  twenty-five  feet 
in  a  single  plunge,  the  other  fifty- 
seven  in  rapids.  They  make  a  superb 
water-power,  for  the  utilization  and 
preservation  of  which  everything  has 
been  done  that  mechanical  skill  can 
do.  A  dam  has  been  built  some  dis- 
tance above,  to  which  a  boom  for  logs 
is  attached,  and  still  further  up  reser- 
voirs have  been  provided  in  which, 
durinsr  the  flooded  season,  water  is 
stored  for  consumption  during  the 
summer  droughts.  Even  the  falls 
themselves  have  been  covered  with 
planking  to  prevent  the  erosion  of 
the  bed  rock.  .  These  devices  have 
marred  much  of  the  original  beauty 
of  the  turbulent  stream,  but  it  still 
presents  —  at  least  in  spring  and  win- 
ter —  a  marvellous  spectacle  for  the 
heart  of  a  great  citv.  The  Falls  of  St.  Anthony  have  come  to  be  as  inseparable  from  every 
mental  picture  of  Minneapolis  as  the  Thames  from  London  or  the  Seine  from  Paris. 

The  wheat  lands  which  pour  their  harvests  into  Minneapolis  are  without  a  rival  on  the  conti- 
nent in  richness  and  extent.     Minnesota  alone  is  larger  than  all  New  England;  and  Minnesota 
and  Dakota  together  are  equal  %o  three  and  one  half  New  Englands.     Their  combined  annua 
wheat  product  is  over  seventv-five  million  bushels.     Some  of  this  product  goes  to  St.  Paul  and 
more  still  to  Duluth.  but  so  long  as  her  water-power  continues  unimpaired,  Minneapolis  is  sure  of 
its  quota.     But  neither  her  water-power  nor  her  position  relative  to  the  wheat  held^  would  have 
suffice.l  to  crive  Minneapolis  her  present  enviable  prosperity  had  it  not  been  for  the  discovery  of  a 
new  method  of  bolting  1)V  whicli  the  most  nutritive  portions  of  the  wheat  kernel  were  saved. 
These  cling  closely  to  the  bran  and  had  formerly  Ix^en  waste.     The  invention  was   made  by  a 
Frenchman  in  I860,  but 
it   was    not    until   1871 
that  Ex-Governor  Wash- 
burn  of   Wisconsin    in- 
troduced    it     into     the 
Minneapolis    mills.       It 
completely     revolution- 
ized the    milling  indus- 
try.    At  that  time  ]Min- 
nesota    wheat   sold    for 
thirty    cents    a    bushel 
less  than  that  of  Iowa, 
Kansas     and     Missouri. 
But  now,  after  a  little, 
when   the    new   process 
has  itself  been  improved 
ui)on     by     Minneapolis 
millers  and  has  become 
well-nigh   perfect  in   its 
adaptations.    Minnesota 
and  Dakota  hard  spring 


MINNKAPOLIS    riHLlC    LIUllAUY. 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD. 


147 


wheat  out-sells  all  others.  In  the  iiieaii- 
tinie,  Minneapolis  tlour  has  earned  the 
reputation  of  being  the  Ijest  flour  in  the 
market  and  Minneapolis  has  grown  to  he 
one  of  the  largest  wheat  and  grain  mar- 
kets in  the  United  States,  and  the  largest 
flour  manufacturing  city  in  the  world. 

Minneapolis  has  also  the  distinction 
of  having  the  two '  largest  flour  mill- 
ing firms,  the  Pillsbury  aiul  the  Wash- 
liurn.  The  Pillsbury  A  Mill  is  the  j)ride 
of  the  cit\-,  of  the  wliole  Northwest  in 
fact.  From  twenty -four  thousand  bushels 
of  wheat  it  turns  out  every  day  five  thou- 
sand, two  hundred  barrels  of  flour  which 
are  packed  and  loaded  at  the  late  of  eight 
per  minute  or  five  hundred  and  twenty 
per  hour.  In  four  days  its  out-put  would 
load  an  ocean  steamer. 

Of  less  importance  than  the  flour 
mills,  but  second  to  them  only  in  their 
relations  to  the  business  life  of  the  city, 
are  the  Minneapolis  saw-mills.  They 
number  more  than  a  score  and  turn  out 
annually  more  than  three  hundred  mil- 
lion feet  of  lumber. 

In  spite  of  its  rapidity,  the  growth 
of  the  "  Floury  City  "  has  been  no  mush- 
room growth,  and  its  prosperity  is  no  mushroom  prosperity.  Energy  and  integrity  have  gone 
hand  in  hand  from  the  beginning  and  so  far  at  least  as  the  markets  of  the  world  are  concerned  the 
name  "  Minneapolis  "  is  a  synonym  for  the  best. 


^.jas.a«f 


THE   F.VLLS    or   MIXXEIIAHA. 


BRISTOL. 


UNLIKE  many  commercial  towns  whose  chief   interest  is  in  their  shipping  and  commerce, 
Bristol  possesses  an  ancient  and  antique  flavor  all  her  own,  a  mingled  essence  compounded 
of  the  salt  sea  and  the  mould  of  antiquity,  so  that  the  sentimental  tourist  labors  under 
an  embarrassment  of  riches. 

What  shall  he  first  visit?  Shall  it  be  the  ancient  Cathedral  which  was  begun  as  an  Augustine 
Abbey  iu  1142,  with  its  most  beautiful  Norman  Chapter-House,  now  the  only  remnant  of  the 
original  church,  and  its  elder  Lady  Chapel  begun  in  1210  ?  Good  King  Hal,  who  founded  the 
bishopric  in  1542,  would  knit  his  sturdy  brows  to  find  the  changes  from  Norman  to  Early  English 
and  Perpendicular  Gothic  that  this  Cathedral  exhibits  to-day,  unique  as  it  is,  among  all  English 
Cathedrals  for  its  high  arched  vaulting  and  its  singular  flying  arches  across  the  aisles.  Or,  shall 
the  tourist,  casting  a  withered  flower  on  the  monument  of  Bishop  Butler  whose  *'  Analogy  "  made 
his  early  schoolboy  days  a  dream  of  horror,  emerge  on  the  Cathedral's  west  side  and  linger  a 
moment  at  the  beautiful  Norman  archway  of  the  College  Gate  belonging  to  the  old  Abbey 
buildings?     Perhaps  that  little  gem  of   Early  English.  St.  Mark's   Church  with  its  curious  old 


148 


GREAT   CITIES    OF   THE   WORLD. 


COMING    INTO    I'OUl. 


monuments  and Tadiant  stained  glass  will  diaw  liira  across  the  way,  or  St.  James,  one  of  the  oldest 
Norman  churches  in  Bristol,  will  lead  him  a  still  longer  chase. 

High  above  all,  even  above  the  Cathedral  itself,  towers  the  lofty  spire  (two  hundred  and 
eighty-five  feet  high)  of  St.  Mary  Redclifife,  visible  as  soon  as  the  station  is  left.  To-day,  in  its 
grass-grown  close,  it  stands  peerless  as  an  example  of  rich  Perpendicular  Gothic. 

Bristol's  shipping  trade  to-day  is  great  and  imposing;  in  1886,  vegsels  entered  her  port  Avith 
an  aggregate  burden  of  1,343,962  tons ;  they  bore  rich  freight  of  sugar,  rum,  coffee,  tobacco  from 
the  West  Indies,  with  wool,  tui'pentine,  hemp,  timber,  wine  and  brandy  from  the  United  States 
and  France. 

In  return  for  this  rich  freight  of  wines  and  brown  sugar  the  old  Cathedral  city  sends  out  its 
manufactures  of  soap,  tobacco,  leather,  boots  and  shoes,  glass  and  brass,  copper  and  iron,  cotton, 
and  refined  sugar,  formerly  its  staple  commodity.  No  doubt  it  is  obliged  to  send  goodly  quantities 
of  sugar  to  sweeten  its  chocolate,  for  Fry's  chocolate  and  cocoa  factory  which  employs  eleven 
hundred  hands  is  to-tlay  one  of  the  greatest  of  Bristol's  manufacturing  industries. 

But  Bristol  ancient  is  more  interesting  than  Bristol  modern ;  though  the  two  are  closely 
linked.  Half-way  between  the  Floating  Harbor  and  the  streets  of  Coi'u  and  Wine,  lies  the  quaint, 
narrow  little  street  of  Mary-le-Port.  with  its  old-fashioned  houses  with  their  high  gables,  many  still 
dating  from  the  fourteenth  and  fifteenth  centuries.  At  the  end  of  the  street  lies  the  beautiful 
Gothic  pile  of  St.  Peter's  Hospital  begun  in  the  twelfth  century :  near  by  stands  St.  Peter's  Church, 
the  mother-church  of  Bristol. 

From  the  narrow  picturesque  streets  of  Bristol,  where  St.  Augustine  is  said  to  have  preached, 
where  Cromwell  razed  the  castle  in  which  Queen  Matilda  imprisoned  King  Stephen,  within  whose 
Blue-Coat  Colston  School  poor  Chatterton  shivered,  where  David  Hume  "clerked  it"  in  1734, 
where  Sebastian  Cabot  was  the  first  governor  of  the  "Merchant  Venturers  "  still  existing,  where 
Robert  Hall  lies  buried,  and  where  tablets  are  erected  to  the  memory  of  Southey,  Hugh  Conway 
of  "  Called  Back "  fame  and  Mary  Carpentei-,  all  Bristol  born  ;  it  is  somewhat  of  a  breathing 
relief  to  emerge  into  the  beautiful  and  high-lying  suburb  of  Clifton. 

For  a  breath  of  the  fresh  west  sea-breeze  and  a  glimpse  of  the  villas  of  the  well-to-do  Bris- 
tolians  we  hie  ourselves  to  the  breezy  Clifton  Downs.     Here  on  the  west  we  see  the  fail-  Avon 


GREAT  CITIES   OF  THE   WORLD. 


149 


flowing  through  the  picturesque  gorge  of  St.  Vincent's,  the  rocky  chasm  spanned  l)y  a  noble 
suspension  bridge  of  seven  hundred  feet  span,  two  hundred  and  fifty  feet  above  tlie  rushing  stream. 
Hard  by  are  the  remains  of  British  earthworks  with  their  Roman  improvements.  Or,  if  we  tliink 
a  live  empress  is  better  than  a  dead  Roman,  we  can  return  and  visit  the  Royal  York  Crescents  in 
Clifton,  where  the  Empress  Eus2:^nie  spent  much  of  her  school-life. 


ST.  PAUL. 


IF  I  were  to  live  on  the  Mississippi,  I  would  live  here,"  said  the  famous  Swedish  novelist, 
Frederika  Bremer,  writing  from  St.  Paul,  during  her  visit  of  several  years  ago.  St.  Paul 
existed  only  in  outline  then.  Nothing  has  been  lost  and  much  has  been  added  since  to  its 
attractions  as  a  place  of  residence.  Not  the  least  of  these  is  its  beautiful  location.  Its  four 
terraces  overlook  the  rolling  Minnesota  prairies,  lakes  Elmo  and  Como  and  a  score  of  others,  and 
the  rivers  Mississippi  and  St.  Croix.  The  ambitious  city  —  itself  a  thing  of  beauty  with  magnifi- 
cent business  blocks,  apartment  houses,  palace  hotels  and  government  buildings  —  has  resolutely 
climbed  all  the  terraces  and  is  now  hurrying  acioss  the  plateau  beyond.  On  this  plateau  are  the 
finest  residences  of  the  city.  Summit  Avenue  (two  hundred  feet  wide)  which  runs  along  its 
ridge  is  unquestionably  the  most  splendid  avenue  in  the  whole  new  Northwest.  It  is  a  veritable 
crown  of  palaces  for  the  brow  of  this  fair  and  queenly  city.  Residences  cover  the  next  lower 
terrace  also.     The  first  and  second,  however,  are  mostly  given  up  to  business. 

Sanitary  statistics  show  St.  Paul  to  be  the  healthiest  city  in  the  United  States,  a  fact  easil}' 
accounted  for  by  its  almost  perfect  natural  drainage,  its  pure  water  supply  drawn  from  the  clearest 
of  the  lakes  with  which  the  whole  State  is  honeycombed,  and  its  cool,  dry,  bracing  atmosphere. 
This  exceptional  healthfulness  is  another  inducement  and  a  strong  one  to  residence. 


TUF.   STATE   CAPITOL,    ST.    PAn.. 


150 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD. 


The  people  of  St.  Paul  have  an  abundance  of  that  indomitable  pluck  and  energy  which  has 
come  to  be  denominated  "  Xew  England,"  and  can  point  to  prosj^erous  churches,  admirable  public 
schools  and  growing  colleges ;  at  the  same  time  they  have  in  fuU  measure  the  social  expansiveuess 
and  hospitalit}-  of  New  York  and  the  Southern  States  from  which  many  of  them  have  come. 

But  all  these  things,  important  as  they  are,  have  had  and  are  having  comparatively  little 
influence  in  building  up  the  city.  The  West  is  pre-eminently  devoted  to  business,  and  St.  Paul  is, 
like  every  other  city  in  this  section,  the  child  of  business  opportunities.  It  is  the  head  of  river 
navigation  on  the  Mississippi  and  the  natural  focus  of  the  transportation  system  of  the  entire 
Northwest.  Without  mentionincr  freight,  it  is  enouofh  to  savthat  two  hundred  and  sixtv  thousand 
passenger  cars  carry  about  six  million  passengers  over  its  roads  every  year,  an  average  of  twenty 
thousand  per  day.  Jobbing  has  been  its  specialty  from  the  first,  and  the  last  twenty  years  have 
witnessed  a  marvelous  increase  in  the  extent  of  it.  In  1870,  no  exclusively  wholesale  house  had 
been  established,  and  the  jobbing  trade  amounted  to  only  ten  million  dollars.  -  In  1880,  it  was  forty 
million  dollars,  in  1885,  eighty-four  million  dollars,  and  in  1888,  over  one  hundred  million  dollars. 

^Manufactures  are  a  A^ery  recent  development ;  they  were  of  little  importance  up  to  1884,  and 
yet  in  1887,  twenty  thousand  men  were  emploA-ed  in  the  production  of  thirty-six  million  dollars' 
worth  of  manufactured  goods  at  the  same  time  that  thirty-five  new  establishments  with  a  combined 
capital  of  six  million  dollars  were  being  got  under  headway. 

St.  Paul  history  has  few  important  dates.  In  18o8,  seven  adventurers  took  up  claims  upon 
its  present  site.  It  was  incorporated  as  a  town  in  1849,  as  a  city  in  1854,  and  was  made  the  State 
capital  in  1858.  Its  name  was  derived  from  a  mission  churcli  that  a  Jesuit,  Father  Galtier,  built 
in  1842,  and  there  is  a  tradition  that  this  earh'  period  was  marked  by  a  bitter  rivalry  Avith  Still- 
water, which  l)ade  fair  to  be  the  larger  city.  And  this  is  the  same  St.  Paul  whose  real  estate  sales 
for  1887  aggregated  seventy-five  million  dollars,  and  whoso  new  buildings  in  that  year  cost  twelve 
million  dollai-s ! 

Minneapolis  and  St.  Patil  touch  in  their  municipal  boundaries.  Their  business  centers  are 
but  ten  miles  apart.  The  intervening  space  is  occupied  by  the  colleges,  public  buildings  and 
citizen  residences  of  each.  It  is  impossible  to  contemplate  their  growth  without  a  conviction  that 
at  no  distant  da}-,  the  rival  cities  will  be  one  city,  and  that  city  the  metropolis  of  the  Northwest. 


ST.  I'aUL  ii:u.\i  I'Kusrixr  iKKiiAci:. 


VIEW  OP  SYir:;;-/. 


SYDNEY. 


THE  oldest  city  in  Amsterdam,  Sydney,  though  outstripped  by  Melbourne,  is  still  a  ^-reat  and 
growing  city,  the  capital  of  the  British  Colony  of  New  South  Wales  and  the  center  of  a 
large  and  rapidly-increasing  trade.  To  one  who  imagines  that  a  city  in  the  Antipodes  is 
necessarily  a  raw  and  heterogeneous  town  such  a  place  as  Sydney  will  prove  both  a  surprise  and 
an  inspiration.  It  is,  says  Dr.  Wight,  a  recent  visitor  at  this  Australian  metropolis,  "  a  beautiful 
city  of  about  three  hundred  thousand  inhabitants,  including  the  suburbs.  Its  harbor,  opening 
out  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  by  a  safe  channel,  two  miles  wide,  with  its  deep  fiords  running  far 
and  wide  into  the  high  rocky  shore,  containing  two  hundred  miles  of  na^ngable  waters,  with  its 
villa-studded  islands  and  peninsulas  is,  perhaps,  the  finest  in  all  the  world."  The  cit}'  is  modern 
in  every  way,  and  contains  no  suggestions  of  the  convict  settlement  of  Botany  Bay  in  Avhich  it 
had  its  beginnings  a  hundred  5'eai's  ago.  "A  magnificent  park,"  says  Dr.  Wight,  "■botanical  and 
zoological  gardens,  elegant  theatei^s,  imposing  public  buildings,  costly  churches,  massive  ware- 
houses, sumptuous  residences,  hospitals  and  institutions  of  learning,  attractive  suburbs,  well- 
appointed  clubs,  and  refined  society  make  Sydney  a  charming  place  of  sojourn  for  the  weary 
traveler."  Fashion  has  its  home  in  the  east,  business  at  the  west,  and  manufacturing  in  the  southern 
part  of  the  city,  which  has  an  area  of  two  thousand  and  seven  hundred  acres,  with  scarcely-  any 
part  of  the  town  a  mile  distant  from  the  water.  Sydney  is  the  home  <if  manv  exten-^ive  and  grow- 
ing industries,  its  climate  is  most  agreeable,  the  sprijig  being  especially  d<;l::;htfnl  with  balmy  air 
and  an  endless  profusion  of  gorgeous  flowers. 


ANTWERP. 


P 


ICTURESQUE     and 

delightful,  the  an- 
cient cit}-  of  Ant- 
werp on  the  Scheldt,  dating 
from  the  seventh  century, 
is  one  of  the  most  inter- 
esting cities  of  the  L6\v 
Countries.  Like  Venice  it 
has  seen  hetter  days ;  un- 
der Charles  the  Fifth  its 
commerce  blossomed  like 
the  rose  ;  thousands  of  ves- 
sels lav  in  the  Scheldt  at 
one  time,  while  the  great 
fairs  held  in  the  city  at- 
tracted merchants  from  all 
parts  of  the  world. 

Those  were  glorious 
days  for  Antwerp  :  Venice 
herself  with  all  her  glory, 
did  not  equal  her  north- 
ern rival  in  commerce  or 
splendor. 

To-day  this  strongly 
fortified  town,  defended  by 
massive  ramparts  almost 
fifteen  miles  in  length,  pre- 
serves much  of  its  ancient, 
picturesque  appearance. 
Once  a  fief  of  the  Duchy 
of  Brabant,  now  the  prin- 
cipal seaport  town  of  Bel- 
gium, its  commercial  asi:)ect 
fortunately  but  adds  to  its 
artistic  interest.  Its  nu- 
merous churches,  spacious 
convents,  its  magnificent  public  buildings  (chief  among  which  is  the  splendid  marble  Hotel  de 
Ville,  with  its  Salle  Leys,  whose  decorations  give  the  history  of  the  town,  the  fine  Gothic  Bourse, 
in  the  style  of  the  fii-st  Exchange  built  in  1531,  and  the  Hall  of  the  Hanse  Towns),  its  elaborate 
and  extensive  fortifications,  some  of  them  erected  by  order  of  the  Duke  of  Alva,  and  only  recently 
dismantled  —  all  these  give  a  distinguished  air  to  the  town.  Add  to  these,  the  number  of  beauti- 
ful squares  with  which  the  city  is  adorned,  and  let  stately  antique-looking  houses  with  their 
curious  Dutch  gables  and  brilliant  bricks  look  down  upon  long  streets  shaded  by  a  profusion 
of  beautiful  trees,  and,  even  though  many  of  the  streets  are  tortuous  and  irregular,  rivalling 
those  of  our  own  Boston-town,  the  general  effect  is  pleasing. 

Above  all,  the  splendid  Gothic  Cathedral,  the  most  beautiful  in  the  Netherlands,  bordering 
on  the  Place  Verte  attracts  the  traveler.  Begun  in  1352,  it  has  only  recently  been  completed ;  its 
"  long-drawn  aisles  and  spreading  vaults  "  supported  by  one  hundred  and  twenty-five  splendid 
pillars,  its  stained-glass  windows,  its  richh-'sculptured  marble  altars  and  its  wonderful  Rubens 
religious  pictures  —  all  this  is  worth  a  long  journey  to  see. 

152 


CATHKUKAL    AT    ANTWERP. 


GREAT  CITIES   OF  THE   WORLD.  153 

Rising  to  the  heiglit  of  four  hundred  and  two  feet  is  the  wonderful  tower  l>egun  l)y  Hans 
Aniel,  the  first  architect  of  the  Cathe(hal.  "It  is  as  delicate  and  beautiful  as  a  piece  of  rare 
Mechlin  lace,"  said  Napoleon ;  "  It  should  1x3  preserved  under  a  glass  case,"  said  another  great 
soldier,  Charles  the  Fifth. 

In  the  extensive  Museum,  once  an  old  monastery,  the  finest  works  of  the  Flemish  School  are 
shown ;  the  home  of  Rubens,  Antwerp  is  brilliant  with  his  canvases.  In  the  beautiful  Gothic 
Church  of  St.  Jacques,  beside  many  high-born  lords  and  ladies,  his  famil}'  lies  buried  under  a 
splendid  altar.  In  the  splendid  Place  de  Meir,  the  finest  street  in  Antwerp,  hard  by  the  Royal 
Palace,  rises  the  richly  decoi-ated  house  of  Rubens,  the  original  design  made  by  the  great  painter 
himself.     Here  Rubens  died  in  1640,  but  unfortunately  the  house  has  been  too  much  restored. 

To  see  Antwerp  from  all  sides,  after  the  ascent  of  the  Cathedral  Towei',  where  from  the  top 
of  the  six  hundred  and  twenty-two  steps  in  clear  weather,  the  spires  of  Malines  and  Bruges  and 
Ghent  can  be  seen  glistening,  it  is  well  to  view  the  city  from  the  Scheldt  along  which  extend  the 
handsome  and  busy  quays  which  Napoleon  the  Great  constructed  in  1802.  From  here,  the  spires 
and  the  gabled  roofs  of  the  city  with  its  foreground  forest  of  masts,  look  extremely  picturesque, 
although  the  "march  of  improvement"  is  sweeping  away  some  of  its  characteristic  attractions. 
Near  the  great  docks,  which  cost  Napoleon  thirteen  million  francs,  a  clatter  and  chatter  of  all 
kinds  of  tongues  can  be  heaid ;  bronzed  sailors  from  all  over  the  globe  pass  and  i-epass  in  the 
neighborhood  of  one  of  the  "  finest  harbors  in  the  world.'  In  1878  nearly  five  thousand  ships 
entered  the  harbor  with  a  tonnage  of  over  two  million.  Steamships  ply  to  England  and  New 
York  ;  black  silks  and  velvets,  lace  and  carpets  are  sent  abroad  from  her  looms,  and  in  i-eturn  her 
trade  in  hides  is  very  extensive.  Down  by  the  docks,  Antwei-p's  wealthy  past,  her  downfall  under 
the  Spanish  power  and  her  later  desolation  in  the  memorable  siege  of  1833 — all  seem  forgotten  in 
this  tide  of  returning  prosperity  which  did  not  begin  until  1863,  when  she  again  obtained  from 
Holland  her  maritime  rights  on  the  Scheldt. 

To-day  the  lines  of  the  old  Flemish  monk  seem  about  to  come  true  again  :  "  Brussels  rejoices 
in  noble  men,  Antwerp  in  money:"  and  those  who  have  loved  and  visited  this  quaint  old  Flemish 
city  cannot  but  rejoice  in  her  growing  prosperity. 


BUCHAREST. 


PICTURESQUE  as  to  location  and  surrounding,  laid  in  a  hollow  on  the  River  Dimbovetza,  a 
tributary  of  the  Danube,  green  with  a  profusion  of  foliage  and  gleaming  with  domes  and 
minarets  stands  Bucharest  or  Bukuresci,  "  City  of  Joy."  It  is  the  capital  of  Roumania,  occu- 
pies an  area  of  over  twenty  square  miles  and  is  the  home  of  more  than  two  hundred  and  fifty  thou- 
sand inhabitants.  Its  sti-eets  are  irregular  and  unpaved,  caf^s  and  coffee-gardens  abound,  droshkys 
in  summer  and  sledges  in  winter  are  the  chief  methods  of  city  travel,  though  a  horse  railroad  has 
recently  been  laid  by  an  English  company.  The  city  is  lighted  with  gas.  the  manufacturing 
industries  are  slight,  but  the  foreign  merchants  of  the  town  do  a  considerable  business.  The 
city  boasts  of  a  fine  theater  and  academy,  but  the  other  public  buildings  are  of  small  account. 
Bucharest  is  the  residence  of  the  prince  and  the  seat  of  a  bishop,  but  the  palace  is  an  almost 
insignificant  building  and  few  of  the  churches  are  notable.  Society  is  exclusive  and  clannish,  the 
different  nationalities  drawing  sharp  social  lines.  The  population  is  made  up  of  Boyai-s,  Tran- 
sylvanians,  Russians,  Bulgarians.  Armenians,  Gypsies  and  Jews  with  the  foreign  merchants  — 
Germans,  Greeks,  Frenchmen  and  Swiss.     The  Boyars  are  the  aristocratic  and  dominant  "  caste." 


MILWAUKEE. 


THE  first  thing  about  Wisconsin's  greatest  city  —  Milwaukee  —  to  attract  the  attention  of  the 
visiting  stranger  is  that  which  has  won  for  it  its  most  popular  sobriquet  of  "  The  Cream 
City ''  —  alias  "  The  Blonde  Beauty  of  the  Lakes,"  to  employ  the  felicitous  phraseology 
of  one  of  her  ambitious  and  jjoetic  paragraphers  —  namely,  the  prevalence  of  cream-colored  biick 
in  both  residences  and  business  blocks.  This  common  use  of  an  uncommon  material  recommends 
itself  to  the  artistic  ej-e,  not  only  because  it  is  the  mark  of  a  very  real  individuality  —  of  itself  a 
desirable  thing  —  but  because  it  also  lends  an  aspect  of  inexpressible  cheerfulness,  and  is  an 
element  of  a  truly  beautiful  contrast  in  tlie  summer.  \\]\vn  the  abundant  green  of  the  lawns  and 
the  foliage  of  the  shade  trees  in  the  streets,  parks  and  gardens  throw  it  into  a  sunny  relief. 

The  dockage  rendered  necessary  by  ^Milwaukee's  lake  trade  is  partly  furnished  by  the  crescent- 
shaped  shore  of  Milwaukee  Bay,  and  partly  by  the  three  rivers  which  split  up  the  city  into  sections 

—  the  Milwaukee,  Menomonee  and  Kinnickinnic.  If  a  city  which  has  several  lively  business 
nuclei  can  be  said  to  have  a  business  center  at  all  it  would  probably  be  located  in  what  is  generally 
known  as  the  "West  Side  "  at  the  lower  end  of  Grand  Avenue,  a  street  whose  extension  toward 
the  suburbs  is  the  great  winter  drive,  the  Brighton  Koad  of  Milwaukee. 

The  glory  of  the  East  Side,  the  residence  district  par  i'rcellence,  is  Prosjiect  Avenue,  a  noble 
roadway  running  along  a  line  of  bluffs  that  overlook  tlie  waters  of  the  lake.  The  bulk  of  the 
manufacturing  is  done  on  the  "  South  Side,"  and  liere  in  close  proximity  to  their  work  most  of  the 
laborers  live.  Their  neat  villages  of  cottage  homes  are  not  the  least  attractive  of  the  city's  sights. 
Tliese  people  are  mostly  Germans  as  are  also  very  many  of  the  most  influential  men  of  affairs.  In 
fact,  Milwaukee  comes  very  near  being  a  German  city.  In  188.5,  according  to  the  State  Census,  it 
had  a  population  of  one  hundred  and  fifty-eight  thousand.  Of  these  over  forty-eight  thousand 
were  native-born  Germans,  and  almost  as  many  more  were  of  German  descent.  Tims  what  may 
fairly  be  classed  as  the  German  element  was  nearly  two  thirds  the  whole.  It  certiiinly  speaks  well 
for  the  character  of  the  Germans  as  citizens  that  they  have  built  and  maintained  so  fair  and  pros- 
perous a  city.  Milwaukee  is,  according  to  the  latest  statistics,  the  most  orderly  city  in  the  United 
States:  it  is  also  thirteenth  in  population,  tenth  in  manufactures  and  first  in  the  average  cost  of 
its  dwellings  and  in  the  proportion  of  them  owned  by  their  occupants  —  a  city  of  homes,  therefore, 
in  a  more  vital  sense  than  any  that  has  the  traditional  reputation  of  it.  This  is  the  place  of  which 
Henry  George,  the  labor  agitator,  frankly  admitted  that  a  careful  search  had  failed  to  reveal  any 
poverty,  and  with  which  a  somewhat  fastidious  Eastern  author  was  so  favorably  impressed  on  a 
recent  visit  as  to  say:  ''Tlie  general  impression  of  Milwaukee  is  that  it  is  a  city  of  much  wealth 
and  a  great  deal  of  comfoit,  with  a  settled,  almost  conservative,  feeling  like  an  Eastern  city  and  a 
a  charming,  cultivated  social  life  with  the  grace  and  beauty  that  ai"e  common  to  American  society' 
anywhere." 

Brewing  is  at  once  the  greatest  and  most  conspicuous  Milwaukee  industry,  its  product  for 
1889  being  almost  ten  and  a  half  million  doUai-s.  A  single  brewery  here,  the  largest  in  the  world, 
has  a  capacity  of  eight  hundred  thousand  barrels  a  year ;  1,537,500  kegs  and  fourteen  million  bottles 

—  the  corks  alone  cost  seventy-eight  thousand  dollai-s  —  was  its  actual  output  for  1889.  This 
necessitated  the  consumption  of  se\en  hundred  and  ninety-four  thousand  pounds  of  hops,  one 
million,  two  hundred  thousand  bushels  of  mait,  2,029,300  pounds  of  rice  and  24,735  tons  of 
coal ;  and,  during  the  same  period,  its  huge  refrigerating  machines  produce  the  equivalent  of  two 
hundred  and  ninety-two  million  pounds  of  ice.  The  buildings  cover  ten  acres  and  have  a  total 
floor  space  of  twenty-seven  acres.     It  is  well  worth  a  trip  to  Milwaukee  just  to  see  the  wondeiful 

-    labor-saving  appliances  and  perfect  order  of  this  monster  brewer)-. 

Packing  is  next  in  importance  to  brewing.  Ten  million  dollars'  wortli  of  packed  meats  were 
sold  in  1889,  of  which  eight  million  dollars  represented  pork.  The  largest  pork-packing  establish- 
ment in  the  world  is  located  in  Milwaukee.  Among  other  colossal  single  establishments  should 
be  mentioned  the  largest  mill-machinery  factory  and  the  largest  vinegar  works  in  the  world.  The 
iron  and  flour  mills,  machine  shops,  tanneries,  and  clothing  and  wooden  ware  factories  aveiage 
'  about  five  million  dollars  each  per  year.     These  several  items  plus  those  of  packing  and  brewing 

154 


^■■^'^, 


PICTFK  KSQUE   MILWAUKEE. 


156 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD. 


equal  ovei*  fifty  million  dollars  more  than  half  the  entire  manufactured  product.  In  the  matter  of 
flour  there  was  an  increase  of  313,011  barrels  from  1886  to  1889,  and  therebj-  Milwaukee  has 
stepped  into  the  place  of  St.  Louis  as  the  second  flour  city  in  the  country. 

The  accession  of  one  liundred  and  ten  thousand  people  to  the  population  and  of  forty-five  mil- 
lion dollars  to  the  value  of  real  estate  between  1880  and  1889  is  sufficient  to  indicate  the  excep- 
tional prosperity  of  the  last  decade,  while  the  seven  million  dollars  of  new  buildings,  ten  million 
dollars  of  real  estate  sales,  ninety-four  million  dollars  of  jobbing,  one  hundred  million  dollars  of 
manufactures,  two  hundred  and  fifty-four  million  dollars  of  bank  clearances  for  1890,  exhibit  the 
prosperity  of  a  past  so  close  to  the  present  fis  to  be  in  effect  an  instantaneous  record.  Milwaukee 
is  advancing  along  every  possible  line.  Like  the  drummer  boy  in  Napoleon's  army  she  has  never 
learned  to  beat  a  retreat. 


VIEW    OF   AiEXANDlUA. 


ALEXANDRIA. 


OUT  of  the  mellowest  of  sunsets,  wrote  Mark  Twain,  telling  of  his  oriental  sight-seeing,  rose 
the  domes  and  minarets  of  Alexandria  —  a  beautiful  city  and  an  Egyptian  one,  but  too 
nuicli  like  a  European  city  to  be  novel.     And  it  is  modern  —  for  Egypt  —  for  it  only  dates 
back  lo  the  days  of  Alexander  the  Great,  three  hundred  years  before  Christ. 

The  modern  city  stands  on  a  peninsula  and  is  neither  striking  in  appearance  nor  attractive  in  its 
surroundings.  The  Turkish  quarter  is  filthy  and  meanly-built,  with  irregular  and  narrow  streets  ; 
the  French  quarter  is  much  like  a  European  city,  with  liandsome  streets  and  squares  and  excellent 
shops.  Tlie  public  buildings  and  offices  are  on  the  Great  Square  and  among  the  principal  build- 
ings are  the  palace  of  the  pasha,  the  naval  arsenal,  the  naval  and  military  hospitals,  custom  house, 
bourse,  theaters,  mosques,  churches  and  convents.  The  population  has  grown  during  the  present 
century  from  six  thousand  to  over  two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand,  but  in  the  old  days  of  its 
Greek  supremacy  Alexandria  had  a  population  of  over  six  hundred  thousand. 


BELFAST 


UAI'II)LV-(ili()\VL\(i  iiiod- 
•ity,  whoso  jjopulation  of 
208,122  shows  all  iiniease  of 
over  one  huiidied  and  twenty-five 
thousand  inlial)itants  since  1«41,  Hel- 
fiust  owes  its  deveh>pnient  and  growth 
to  a  great  extent  to  its  extensive  linen 
trade.  It  is  tlie  great  depot' for  the 
North  of  Irehmd,  and  is  also  the  chief 
seat  of  manufactures  of  cotton  and 
linen.  The  growth  and  trade  in  the 
flax  of  Ireland  in  comparison  to  the 
size  of  the  country  is  only  rivalle<l  l)y 
tliatof  Belgium  and  Holland,  all  three 
countries  having  the  moist  climate 
which  is  necessary  for  successful  flax- 
culture. 

Much  of  the  Irisli  flax  is  con- 
sumed in  its  raw  state  in  the  United 
States,  which  is  not  able  to  produce 
and  pi-epare  this  fibre  to  advantage, 
owing  to  the  greater  cost  of  labor  in 
America.  Its  growth  has-  been  en- 
couraged in  Great  Britain  by  fines 
imposed  upon  the  farmer  (as  early  as 
1532)  if  he  did  not  grow  it,  and  the 
English  government  has  vigorously 
discouraged  all  other  branches  of 
manufacture  in  Ireland  except  linen. 
As  early  as  the.  end  of  the  seventeenth  century.  Parliament  prohibited  poor  Ireland  from  export- 
ing her  woolen  goods  anywhere  except  to  England,  and  laid  such  a  heavy  prohibitory  dut\-  on 
their  importation  in  England  itself  that  the  woolen  trade  of  Ireland  was  ruined.  This  l)uilt  up 
the  Protestant  flax-spinnei"s  in  the  North  of  Ireland  ;  while  the  Catholics,  engaged  in  other  indus- 
tries, suffered  materially.  For  a  hundred  3'ears  government  gave  a  bounty  to  encourage  the  flax 
industry  in  Ireland.  The  imports  of  raw  flax  into  Belfast  in  1848  Avere  4,0Go  tons,  in  1854,  8,98<3 
and  in  1802  (the  most  recent  report)  10,965  tons.  When  one  considers  the  enormous  quantity 
of  materials  in  which  linen  pbiys  a  component  part,  the  threads,  twines,  yarns,  linens  ducks, 
canvas  for  sails,  fish-lines,  seines  and  gill-nets,  not  to  mention  the  articles  of  luxury,  sucli  as  laces, 
fine  embroideries,  batistes,  fiue  handkerchiefs,  etc.,  and  remembei's  that  •"i<33,807,283  of  flax  goods 
were  imported  into  the  United  States  in  1877,  on  which  a  dutj-  of  nearly  ten  million  dollai-s  was 
paid,  he  may  form  some  conception  of  the  vastness  of  this  industiy.  In  1880,  nearly  one  hundred 
and  sixty  thousand  acres  in  Ireland  were  devoted  to  the  growth  of  flax,  and  about  twenty-five 
thousand  tons  of  fibre  valued  at  nearh-  eight  million  dollars  were  produced,  Ireland  standing 
sixth  in  the  flax-producing  countries  of  the  world. 

Attractive  from  a  business  point  of  view,  with  regular,  spacious,  well-paved  and  lighted  streets, 
Belfast  is  a  pleasing  modern  city,  with  nothing  especially  striking  about  it.  The  square  tower,  one 
hundred  and  forty  feet  high  erected  to  the  memory  of  the  Prince  Consort  in  1870,  is  perhaps  the 
most  striking  architectural  feature. 

Unlike  many  Irisli  cities,  Belfast  is  industrious  and  thrifty,  and  what  is  perhaps  better  than 
picturesque,  she  is  wide-awake  and  enterprising. 

157 


AT   BELFAST   DOCKS. 


PALERMO. 


PALERMO,  the  ancient 
Panoramus  of  the 
Phoenicians,  with  its 
quarter  million  population 
of  to-day,  seems  to  the  eyes 
of  Mr.  Wakeraan,  one  of  its 
latest  visitors,  ''  to  be  one 
of  the  brightest  and  most 
beautiful  cities  of  Europe." 
We  borroNA'  his  M-ords  in  de- 
scription of  the  sea-Avashed 
city. 

•'  Beautiful  as  is  the 
winsome  city  itself,  its  site 
is  far  more  lovel}'  and  en- 
chanting. At  the  north- 
western extremity  of  Sicily, 
huge  precipices  throw  pro- 
tecting arms  nearly  around 
Palermo  on  the  north. 
These  almost  mountainous 
heijrhts  to  the  rijjht  and 
left  descend  to  the  sea  in 
delicate  lines  and  with  tintis 
of  rarest  tone.  Between 
the  .licadlands  lies  the  deep 
and  dreamful  harbor ;  then 
the  city  on  a  gently-rising 
plain  ;  l)ehind  this,  encir- 
cled hy  a  vast  mountain- 
capped  loop,  shaped  almost 
precisely  like  the  liorseshoe 
arch  of  the  Moors,  stretches 
far  and  far  away  that  most 
famous  of  all  Italian  valleys, 
Conca  d'Oro.   known   to   translation  as   the   Valley  of  the   Golden   Shell. 

"  Palermo  itself  is  bright,  dainty,  splendid  in  architecture,  in  promenade  and  garden,  in 
balcony,  gallery,  monument  and  fountain,  and  in  all  the  lightsomeness  of  figure,  habit  and  expres- 
sion whicli  distinguish  the  more  southern  of  the  Latin  ]>eoples,  especially  when  wedded  with  the 
exuberance  and  elation  which  prosperity  and  prideful  consciousness  in  surrounding  always  entail. 
Intersecting  the  city  at  right  angles  are  two  magnificent  thoroughfares,  the  Corso  Vittorio 
Emanuele,  a  perfectly  straight  northeast  and  southwest  street :  and  Strada  Macqueda,  running 
from  the  northwest  to  the  southeast  in  a  straight  line.  The  northeast  terminal  of  the  Corso 
touches  the  splendid  bay  ;  and  at  the  intersection  of  the  two,  the  business,  social  and  geographic 
center  of  the  city,  is  a  spacious  octagonal,  circus-shaped  space  known  as  the  Quattro  Cantoni. 
The  fa9ade  of  this  comprises  a  magnificent  series  of  piazzas  adorned  with  massive  colonnades  and 
superb  statues.  Noble  gates  stand  at  the  four  terminals  of  the  Corso  and  the  Strada  INIacqueda, 
as  well  as  those  of  many  other  important  thoroughfares  within  the  four  very  nearly  equal  quarters 
thus  formed,  from  any  portion  of  which  divisions  the  main  arteries  of  the  city  are  easily  reached. 

"  So,  mountains  encircle  and  protect  in  the  rear ;  a  vast  and  fruitful  valley  of  bloom  and 
perfume  stretches  from  the  city's  gates  :    then  the  bright  and  beautiful  city  descends  gently  to  a 

158 


A    tilUL    OF    I'ALl.KMc 


GREAT   CITIKS    OF    Till.:    WORLD.  15U 

noble  hiul)or  side ;  and,  as  it'  lo  perfect  the  loveliness  of  the  entire  scene,  art  in  the  splenilid 
Marina  —  the  most  gigantic  and  massive  sea-drive  and  promenade  possessed  by  any  European  city 
—  to  the  right,  and  nature  in  the  precipitous  cliffs  called  Monte  Pellegrino,  to  the  left,  join  in 
forming  at  once  the  most  beautiful  and  glorious  harbor  entrance  to  be  found  on  any  Euro{)ean 
shores." 

'•The  architecture  as  well  as  the  dialect  of  Sicily  is  a  mixture  of  Greek,  Arabic,  Norman  and 
Spanish.  Nowhere  else  is  this  more  noticeable  than  in  Palermo,  whose  streets  disclose  most  curi- 
ous composite  of  structures,  though  the  effect  is  ahvavs  extremely  bright  and  interesting,  if  never 
artistically  wholly  satisfying. 

"  AVhile  the  shops  and  caf^s  are  very  l)eautiful.  the  street  fa(;ades  above  present  a  grotesque 
commingling  of  sunken  galleries  like  cloisters,  colonnaded  fronts  of  the  most  classic  severity,  and 
projecting  balconies  as  graceful  and  delicate  as  may  anywhere  be  found  in  Southern  Spain.  At 
all  hours  of  the  day  the  streets,  which  for  the  most  part  are  exceedingly  narrow,  swarm  with  priests, 
officei-s,  nobles  and  picturesque  mountaineers,  with  every  manner  of  the  lowly  city  folk  of  the 
south ;  while  carpenters,  tailors,  coopei's,  cobblers,  locksmiths  and  the  various  petty  artisans,  \n\- 
concerned  for  the  comfort  of  pedestrians,  pursue  their  several  vocations  with  delightful  conscious 
importance  entirely  outside  their  shop-doors,  gossiping,  whistling  and  singing,  adding  much  to  the 
picturesque  confusion  of  the  thoroughfares. 

"  Of  the  hundreds  of  religious  edifices  of  great  age  and  exceeding  intei-est  in  and  about 
Palermo,  the  stranger  will  linger  longest  at  the  church  and  monastery  of  Santo  Spirito,  famous  a-s 
the  scene  of  the  sad  tragedy  of  the  Sicilian  Vespers,  on  Marcli  30,  1282  ;  the  huge  convent  of  San 
Martino  and  cathedial  of  Monreale,  built  by  William  the  Second  to  outrival  the  greatest  religious 
edifices  of  northern  Europe  ;  the  Royal  Chapel,  with  its  marvellous  mosaics,  finished  in  1182  ;  the 
interesting  Saracenic  relics  of  La  Cuba  and  La  Zisa  ;  and  the  magnificent  cathedral  (II  Duomo) 
with  its  mighty  sarcophagi  where  repose  the  ashes  of  the  royal  Normans,  King  Roger  the  First, 
his  daughter  Constantia.  and  Emperor  Frederick  the  Second." 


KANSAS  CITY. 

IN  1880,  when  the  last  national  census  was  taken.  Kansas  City  had  fifty-five  thousand  inhabi 
tants  and  was  thus  practically  on  a  par  with  Lowell,  Worcester  and  Cambridge,  Massachusetts, 

and  Troy  and  Syracuse,  New  York.  In  1887  its  population  was  one  hundred  and  seventy- 
five  thousand  :  to-day  it  has  at  least  two  hundred  thousand  inhabitants  and  has  earned  a 
right  to  be  chissed  as  one  of  the  "  Great  Cities  of  the  World."  For  the  fifty  years  l)etween  1830 
and  1880  there  was  an  average  yearly  addition  to  its  numbers  of  one  thousand,  one  hundred  ;  foi 
the  seven  yeai-s  between  1880  and  1887,  khe  average  was  seventeen  thousand ;  that  is,  a  year  of  thb 
last  period  was  more  than  equal  to  fifteen  years  of  the  first,  and  three  of  the  last  to  almost  the 
whole  of  the  fii-st.  At  the  close  of  these  same  periods  the  property  valuation  was  thirteen  million 
doUai-s  and  fifty-three  million  dollars  respectively,  so  that  in  this  particular  one  year  of  the,  ne\'' 
was  worth  twenty-one  years  of  the  old. 

The  causes  of  the  comparative  sluggishness  of  its  first  half  century  are  the  same  which  havt 
held  back  many  other  southern  cities,  namely,  slavery  and  the  conservatism  of  a  farming  popu- 
lation. The  causes  of  its  sudden  advance  are  those  that  have  boomed  the  other  new  cities  of  the 
West  but  which  are  only  just  beginning  to  reach  the  South  with  electric  power  —  the  building  of 
i-ailways  and  the  development  of  agricultural  and  mineral  resources. 

Kansas  City  is  situated  in  the  State  of  Missouri  at  the  junction  of  the  Kansas  and  Missouri 
Rivers,  just  where  the  Missouri  by  turning  abruptly  eastward  ceases  to  be  the  western  l>oundary 


IGO 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD. 


line  of  the  State.  It  is  the  national  commercial  metropolis  of  a  large  and  rich  country  embracing 
southwestern  Iowa,  Missouri,  Kansas,  Nebraska,  Colorado,  New  Mexico,  Indian  Territory,  northern 
Arkansas  and  northern  Texas.  Fifteen  railway  lines  including  many  thousand  miles  of  track  (of 
which  4515  miles  were  laid  in  a  single  year,  1887)  connect  it  with  these  and  other  States.  The 
flats  bordering  the  rivers  are  occupied  by  manufactories,  stock-yards  and  the  railway  terminals. 
Back  of  these  flats  rise  a  series  of  ridges  and  these  are  nearly  covered  already  with  solidly  built, 
handsome  houses  and  business  blocks  with  others  in  process  of  erection,  it  being  almost  impossible 
to  build  fast  enough  to  house  newcomei's.  Cable  cars  connect  them  with  tlie  busy  world  of  the 
flats  below.  Kansas  City,  across  the  river  in  Kansas,  made  up  of  the  towns  of  Wyandotte, 
Armourdale,  Armstrong  and  Riverview  and  containing  over  forty  thousand  inhabitants,  is  more 
level  and  therefore  more  desirable  for  manufactories  and  stockyards.  It  is  connected  with 
Kansas  City,  Missouri,  by  an  unique  elevated  railway.  A  bridge  1387  feet  long,  resting  on  seven 
piers,  also  crosses  the  Missouri  at  this  point. 

Kansas  City  makes  one  fourth  of  all  the  farming  tools  used  in  the  United  States  and  is  easily 
the  first  city  in  the  country  in  this  respect ;  fifteen  million  dollars'  worth  was  its  product  for  1887. 

It  is  an  important  coal  and  grain  market,  the  second  live-stock  market  in  the  country  and  so  the 
first  west  of  Chicago  showing  receipts,  for  1887,  of  six  hundred  and  seventy  thousand  cattle,  two 
million,  five  hundred  thousand  hogs  and  two  hundred  and  ten  thousand  sheep,  representing  an  aggre- 
gate value  of  fifty-one  million  dollars.  It  is  the  fii-st  beef  and  the  second  pork  packing  city  in  the 
world.     In  1887,  one  packing-liouse  alone  slaughtered  195,993  cattle  and  1,907,164  hogs. 

Kansas  City  has  no  parks  and  needs  them  lamentablj'.  She  has  as  yet  paid  very  little  atten- 
tion to  learning  or  the  fine  arts.  It  was  not  to  be  expected.  She  is  a  new  city  with  as  many  of 
the  merits  and  as  few  of  the  defects  of  newness  as  any  western  city  has  had.  Business  is  every- 
thing at  present;  culture  must  bide  its  time.  But  when  Kansas  City  "  once  does  take  hold  of  cul- 
ture in  dead  earnest,  she  will  make  it  hum." 


LOUISVILLE. 


THE  site  of  the  first  settlement  of  Louisville  is  now  no  more. 
Corn  Island,  on  which  General  Geoige  Rogers  Clark 
landed  a  little  band  of  colonists  in  1778,  was  for  many 
years  a  favorite  resort  for  barbecues,  picnics,  barn-dances,  camp- 
meetings  and  fish-parties,  but  the  Ohio  has  swept  it  down  stream 
bit  by  bit  until  New  Orleans  owns  more  of  it  than  Louisville,  all 
that  is  left  to  the  latter  being  its  rocky  bottom.  The  Eastern 
colonies  were  in  the  midst  of  their  war  for  independence  in  that 
year  of  1778.  The  contagion  of  their  love  of  liberty  had  traveled 
even  into  the  wildernesses  of  the  then  Far  West.  Here  as  there 
it  was  the  dominating  passion,  and  so  as  a  tribute  of  gratitude  to 
France  who  was  helping  in  the  fight,  the  new  trading-post  was 
named  Louisville  from  the  reigning  king,  Louis  the  Sixteenth. 
These  early  settlers  were  backwoodsmen  —  fearless  hunters  and 
trappers  and  Indian  fighters  like  their  prototype,  Daniel  Boone. 
They  were  model  pioneers.  Representatives  of  ancient  and  hon- 
orable Virginian  families  joined  them  later,  and  it  is  to  this  infusion  without  doubt,  that  the  city  is 
indebted  for  that  "hereditary  flavor  of  manners  and  fine  living"'  which  has  since  distinguished  it. 

Louisville  has  always  been  commercial,  but  it  has  lately  awakened  to  a  new  life  in  this  respect. 
The  principal  causes  of  this  commercial  renaissance  are  the  working  of  the  neglected  coal  and  iron 
mines  and  the  development  of  the  agricultural  resources  of  Kentucky  as  well  as  the  building  of 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE   WOULD.  IGl 

new  liiilwii}^.  How  great  and  how  recent  the  change  has  been  is  indicated  Ijy  tlie  fact  that  the 
year  1887  showed  an  increase  in  trade  and  manufactures  of  from  twenty  to  fifty  per  cent,  over 
18H(j,  seventy-three  new  manufacturing  concerns  being  established  during  that  time,  with  a  capital 
of  ¥1,290,500.  For  tlie  same  year  bank  clearings  were  fifty  million  dollars  more,  and  bituminous 
coal  receipts  747,546  tons  more  than  in  1886. 

Louisville  is  the  largest  tobacco  market  in  the  world,  whether  bulk  or  variety  be  taken  as  the 
basis  of  comparison.  Receipts  and  sales  for  1887  were  twice  as  much  as  th<tse  of  its  principal 
tobacco  rival',  Cincinnati,  and  more  than  those  of  any  other  three  tobacco  nmrkets  coml)ined. 

Nobody  needs  to  be  told  that  Kentucky  has  raised  distilling  to  a  fine  art,  and  Louisville  is  the 
natural  receiving  and  distributing  point  of  the  Kentucky  stills.  Tobacco  and  whi<skey  are  her 
contributions  to  the  luxuries  of  life ;  she  also  contributes  largely  to  its  necessities.  Pork-packing, 
tanning  and  cement-making  are  very  large  industries.  Agricultural  tools  and  woolen  goods  are 
important  products.  She  turns  out  annually  seven  million,  five  hundred  thousand  yards  of  Ken- 
tucky jeans  and  has  the  largest  plough  factory  in  the  world.  By  her  agency  also  over  one  hundred 
and  twenty-five  million  feet  of  lumber  from  the  hard-wood  forests  of  Eastern  Kentucky  are  put  upon 
the  market  every  year. 

Louisville  is  often  called  "  The  Falls  City,"  owing  to  the  fact  that  at  this  part  of  its  cimihc 
the  Ohio  River  makes  a  descent  of  twentj'^-two  feet  in  two  miles  that  renders  navigation  impossible. 
It  was  to  these  falls  that  Louisville  owed  its  early  importance  as  a  trading  point,  it  being  its  prin- 
cipal function  in  those  days  to  unload,  transfer  and  reload  goods  brought  down  on  vessels  above 
the  falls  to  those  below  them.  A  canal,  two  and  one  half  miles  long,  has  for  many  years,  howevei", 
made  it  possible  to  sail  past  without  unloading. 

The  city  is  biiilt  along  the  southern  bank  of  the  Ohio  one  hundred  and  thirty  miles  below 
Cincinnati  upon  a  broad  plain  which  slopes  gently  away  from  the  water,  and  although  it  has  no 
public  parks  its  unusual  openness  prevents  this  from  being  a  great  deprivation  or  a  great  discredit  to 
its  citizens.  Its  streets  are  laid  out  at  right  angles.  Its  avenues  are  broad,  well  paved  and 
shaded,  and  bordered,  in  the  southern  portion  especially,  with  hospitable-looking  colonial  mansions 
set  in  the  midst  of  ample  grounds  —  homes  that  make  no  pretense  to  being  luxurious  but  are 
supremely  comfortable.  In  fact,  comfort  is  the  prevailing  note  in  this,  the  chief  city  of  Kentucky, 
so  far  so  that  even  the  rush  of  business  is  not  able  to  dominate  it. 

Louisville  has  always  been  celebrated  for  its  politicians,  orators  and  lawyers,  also  for  its  medical 
institutions,  of  which  it  has  four  besides  a  College  of  Pharmacy  and  a  School  of  Pharmacy  for 
women. 

"  A  regular,  cheerful  city,"  was  Charles  Dickens'  verdict  on  his  first  visit  to  America  ;  -'  A 
fair,  great  city,"  Anthony  Trollope  called  it  several  years  later.  To-day  Louisville  is  fairer  and 
cheerier  and  greater  than  ever  and  a  new  era  of  prosperity  has  only  just  begun. 


SMYRNA. 


SMYRNA,"  says  Charles  Dudley  Warner,  "  may  be  said  to  have  a  ch.aracter  of  its  own  in  not 
having  any  character  of  its  own.     One  of  the  most  ancient  cities  on  the  globe,  it  has  no  ap- 
pearance of  antiquity;  containing  all  nationalities,  it  has  no  nationality;  it  is  an  Asiatic  city 
with  a  European  face ;  it  produces  nothing,  it  exchanges  nothing  ;  it  is  hospitable  to  all  religions 
and  conspicuous  for  none." 

The  city,  with  its  Turkish  quarter  and  its  Frank  quarter  stretches  from  north  to  south  along 
the  Gulf  of  Smyrna.  It  is  the  home  of  nearly  two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  people,  of  whom  one 
hundred  thousand  are  Greeks  and  another  hundred  thousand  Turks.  It  is  the  greatest  commercial 
city  in  the  Levant,  is  the  terminus  of  the  growing  railway  system  of  Anatolia  and  does  a  large 
export  business  in  Turkish  products  and  manufactures. 


THK  siiAii  E>rr>:Rn<rr.  ieiiekan. 


TEHERAN. 


A  PLACE  of  bazaai-s  and  caravansaries,  of  baths  and  mosques,  of  mud-brick  palaces  and  plain 
mud  hovels,  of  kandts  and  madramha  —  canals  and  colleges,  Teheran,  cajjital  of  Persia  and 
lionie  of  the  Shah,  lies  in  the  extreme  northerly  jjart  of  the  Empire,  not  far  from  the  Caspian 
Sea.  A  typical  Persian  town  it  has,  however,  of  recent  years  taken  on  some  of  the  signs  of 
European  progress  and  civilization,  notably  a  few  wide  streets,  gas,  the  telegraph  and  a  more  lil>- 
eral  system  of  education.  The  citadel  encompasses  the  best  portion  of  the  city's  public  buildings, 
together  with  the  palace  of  the  Shah.  From  it  to  the  outer  walls  run  four  principal  thoroughfares. 
Among  the  city's  notable  buildings  are  the  mosque  of  the  King  and  the  mosque  of  the  King's 
mother — the  Masgid-i-Shan  and  the  Masjid-i-Madar-i-Shah  —  each  with  picturesque  and  handsome 
enameled  fronts.  The  King's  college  stands  in  the  middle  of  a  gas-lighted  square,  the  T8p 
Maidan,  and  has  some  two  hundred  and  fifty  students,  with  European  professors  and  courses  of 
study  in  mathematics,  engineering,  military  tactics,  music,  telegraphy,  painting,  Arabic,  English, 
French  and  Russian.  The  noblest  of  Persian  mountains  —  Demavend — gives  picturesqueness  and 
importance  to  Persia's  otherwise  uninteresting  capital  in  which  little  is  made,  bought  or  sold  that 
would  seem  to  give  the  city  any  prominence  apart  from  its  political  character  as  the  residence  of 
the  Persian  court. 

The  environs  of  the  city  are  striking  and  picturesque,  and  are  the  resort  or  the  homes  of  the 
few  European  inhabitants  of  the  capital  during  Persia's  heated  term.  These  European  residents 
are  increasing  as  the  capital  of  the  old  Persian  autocracy  grows  more  progressive  and  modern. 
There  is  also  an  increasing  number  of  Armenian  merchants  and  wage-earnei-s  in  this  old  home  of 
myster}'  and  magic. 

162 


NOTTINGHAM. 


CROWNING  the  summit  of  a  precipitous  rock  higli  above  the  level  of  the  meadows  of  the 
River  Leen  stands  the  ])icturesque  castle  of  Nottingham.  Here  it  guards  the  busy  town 
that  creeps  up  the  sandstone  rock-slopes  at  its  feet.  A  fort  in  the  time  of  the  Danes,  a 
ciistle  in  the  days  of  William  the  Conqueror,  from  its  sally-port  frequent  forays  were  made  to  re- 
press the  bold  outlaws  who  roamed  in  Nottinghamshire  and  made  Sherwood  Forest  their  home. 
Here,  in  1330,  was  Mortimer,  the  guilty  favorite  of  Queen  Isabelle,  surprised  by  her  enraged  hus- 
band, Edward  the  Third ;  here  Owen  Glendower  languished  in  imprisonment ;  here  Charles  the 
First  in  1642  unfurled  his  royal  standard  and  summoned  his  loyal  followers.  But  the  next  year 
the  grim  Parliament  seized  it,  and  after  being  cared  for  by  Colonel  Hutchinson,  during  the  Com- 
monwealth, its  old  walls  were  demolished.  But  the  Duke  of  Newcastle  in  1674  began  to  rebuild 
it  according  to  his  own  "forme  and  modell."  Its  new  walls  sheltered  Princess  Anne  and  Lady 
Churchill  as  they  concerted  measures  to  restore  William  of  Orange.  In  the  beginning  of  this 
century  the  distress  of  the  -poor  and  their  hatred  of  the  newly  introduced  machinery  culminated 
in  the  Luddite  riots,  where  the  stocking-makers  destroyed  over  one  thousand  of  the  stocking- 
frames  in  order  to  force  their  masters  to  improve  their  miserable  condition.  In  these  riots  the 
castle  was  again  somewhat  injured,  and  in  1831  it  suffered  still  more.  An  armed  mob,  furious 
at  the  Duke  of  Newcastle's  opposition  to  the  Reform  Bill,  stormed  the  heights  and  burned  down 
most  of  the  historic  edifice. 

To-day  it  has  passed  out  of  the  hands  of  the  Dukes  into  the  hands  of  the  people  ;  bought  by 
the  Corporation  of  Nottingham,  restored  in  palatial  Renaissance  style,  its  mass  crowning  the  hill,  it 
towers  to-day  as  the  Midland  Counties  Art  Museum,  where  the  artisan  can  learn  the  secrets  of  his 
trade.  Its  history  is  tlie  history  of  the  town  that  nestles  at  its  feet ;  first,  rapine  and  bloodshed, 
thens  the  strong  hand  of  power  and  kingly  rule,  then  the  quiet  and  peaceful  pursuits  of  the  arts 
and  manufactures. 

To-day  in  the  vast  hosiery  works  of  I.  R.  Moiley  &  Co.,  six  thousand  working  men  and 
women  are  busily  employed  tending  the  stocking-frames  their  grandfathers  sought  to  destroy.  In 
the  sixteenth  century  the  hand-knitting  of  stockings  began;  who  could  foresee  its  wonderful 
growth  aided  b}-  machinery  ? 

And  the  machine-made  lace,  begun  scarcely  a  century  ago  when  the  point-net  machine  was 
invented,  vies  with,  if  it  does  not  rival,  the  stocking  trade.  These  trades,  formerly  carried  on  in 
the  workmen's  houses  on  a  small  scale,  now  occupy  thousands  in  the  large  factories  :  the  Notting- 
ham Manufacturing  Company,  turning  out  lace  curtains  and  piece  lace  as  well  as  hosier}-,  employ 
almost  as  many  hands  as  Morley,  and  the  great  depot  for  the  sale  of  lace  goods  is  Thomas  Adams 
»&  Co.  Silk,  worsted  and  cotton  are  spun  as  well,  wire,  pins  and"  brass  goods  are  made,  and  the 
thirsty  weavers  of  Nottinghamshire  can  wash  the  dust  out  of  their  throats  with  draughts  of  justly 
celebrated  home-brewed  ale.  At  their  annual  Goose  Fair,  the  largest  market-place  in  England, 
five  and  one  half  acres  in  extent,  is  thronged  with  a  crowd  of  eager  buyers  and  sellers  ;  pretty 
girls  lean  out  from  the  projecting  second  stories  of  the  lofty  houses  somewhat  in  the  style  of 
Chester,  for  the  houses .  project  over  the  pavement  and  form  an  arcade  supported  by  pillars, 
encircling  the  market-place  which  even  in  Henry  the  Eighth's  time  was  called  "  the  fairest 
without  exception  in  all  England." 

Though  the  town  in  the  older  part  is  indifferently  built,  the  streets  narrow  and  the  brick 
houses  huddled  together,  the  effect  is  picturesque,  and  some  of  the  public  buildings  are  imposing. 
The  University  College,  with  library,  museum  and  laboratories,  the  Church  of  St.  Mary's  of  Fif- 
teenth Century  Gothic  and  the  Roman  Catholic  Cathedral  of  Pugin's  architecture  are  all  imposing. 

Only  eight  miles  distant  lies  the  Newstead  Abbey,  the  home  of  the  unfortunate  Byron. 
When  the  poet's  body  was  brought  back  from  Greece,  the  Corporation  of  Nottingham  and  the 
nobilitj'  and  gentry  of  the  town  received  the  body  and  attended  it  to  its  simple  place  of  burial, 
the  churchyard  of  Hucknall  Torkard,  half-way  between  Nottingham  and  Newstead.  There  under 
a  simple  marble  slab  marked  but  with  title,  date  and  age  rest  the  remains  of  the  poet. 

163 


VIEW   OK   MONTEVUJEO, 


MONTEVIDEO. 


MONTEVIDEO,"  says  Mr.  Ford,  a  visitor  to  this  South  American  city  in  1890,  "  is  neither 
quaint  like  Bahia  nor  picturesque  like  Rio,  but  it  is  modern  and  handsome.  The  city  is 
seen  to  excellent  advantage  from  the  harbor;  the  cathedral,  churches  and  public  buildings 
standing  on  high  ground  along  the  crest  of  the  peninsula,  and  the  warehouses  and  shops  receding 
tier  by  tier  to  the  sea-walls  of  the  water-front.  This  favorable  impression  is  incresised  when  the 
customs  line  has  been  passed,  and  the  traveler  is  fairly  in  the  town.  The  streets  are  wide,  well- 
paved,  amply  lighted  and  compactly  puilt  up.  The  architecture  is  modern  and  massive.  Granite 
and  Italian  marbles  are  used  in  the  handsome  building  fronts.  Portuguese  tiles  are  seen  only  in 
the  oldest  quarters  of  the  town.  Plaster  fronts,  so  common  in  Brazil,  are  replaced  with  fine  build- 
ing stone,  much  of  which  is  (luarried  in  the  Uruguay  Hills.  The  streets  are  laid  out  with  as 
much  regularity  as  those  of  the  upper  portions  of  New  York. 

The  leading  thoroughfare,  known  as  the  Julio,  and  recording  a  date  of  patriotic  memory,  is 
as  much  finer  than  the  Ouvidor  of  Rio  as  Broadway  is  more  impressive  than  William  Street, 
New  York.  It  leads  through  three  plazas  or  squares.  On  the  first  of  these  stands  the  cathedral, 
a  massive  building  with  two  towers  and  impressive  architectural  effects.  On  another  side  is  the 
showy  Uruguay  club  house,  with  statuary  to  match  tliat  of  the  cathedral.  Close  at  hand  is  the 
chief  opera  house  and  theater  of  the  town,  and  the  handsomest  and  most  tasteful  building  which  I 
have  seen  on  the  Atlantic  coast  of  South  America.  A  few  blocks  farther  on  is  a  plaza,  surrounded 
on  four  sides  by  Government  and  other  buildings,  with  continuous  lines  of  colonnades  and  arcades 
—  a  unique  and  striking  effect.  The  trees  in  these  squares  are  all  young,  and  time  will  be  re- 
quired for  obtaining  from  them  shade  and  for  freshness  of  color  in  contrast  with  the  marble  and 
granite  of  the  impressive  facades.  A  third  plaza  with  a  graceful  column  surrounded  with  a  statue 
of  Liberty  is  in  the  heart  of  the  city.  All  the  way  from  the  cathedral  the  Julio  is  lined  with  hand- 
some shops,  in  which  European  goods  are  attractively  displayed. 

'•  Montevideo  is  as  modern  in  its  manner  of  life  as  in  its  architectural  aspects.  An  atmosphere 
of  healthful  bustle  and  activity  pervades  its  streets.  There  are  street-cars  trundling  in  every  thor- 
oughfare, the  musical  horns  of  the  conductor  being  heard  long  past  midnight  and  in  the  earliest 
hours  of  the  movninor.     Handsome  carriaores  and  cabs  are  in  the  streets.     The  wide  sidewalks  are 


thronged  with  a  busy,  energetic  and  thrifty  population. 

164- 


There  is  a  wide-awake  and  prosperous  air 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD.  165 

about  the  town  that  reniiiuled  me  strongl}-  of  Boston,  to  which  it  bears  a  marked  resemblance  in 
topographical  features  and  compactness  of  construction.  But  Montevideo  is  European  rather  than 
American  in  its  aspects  and  customs.  It  is  a  modern  Spanish  town,  with  glimpses  of  Italian  archi- 
tecture and  refinement  of  taste,  and  with  tlie  commercial  bustle  and  movement  of  Bremen  or  Ham- 
burg. The  banking  quarter  is  as  solid  and  enduring  as  the  financial  system  of  the  country  on  the 
basis  of  gold.  The  custom-house  is  an  institution  conducted  on  modern  principles  and  with  a 
business  intelligence  that  is  lacking  in  Brazil.  There  is  no  dawdling  in  street  or  in  shop.  Men 
have  work  to  do,  and  they  do  not  waste  time  over  it.  The  city  belongs  to  the  last  decade  of  the 
nineteenth  century,  and  not  midway  in  the  eighteenth,  like  many  of  the  Brazilian  towns." 


PRAGUE. 


ALEXANDER  HUMBOLDT,  most  eminent  of  "globe  trotters,"  is  often  quoted  as  having 
called  Prague  the  most  beautiful  inland  city  he  had  ever  seen.  If  the  quotation  be  not 
authentic  it  is  certainly  near  the  truth.  Very  few  cities,  whether  inland  or  sea-girt,  are 
worthy  even  to  be  compared  with  Prague  for  beauty.  Its  charm  is  half  natural,  half  architectural ; 
and  the  two  factors  so  harmonize  and  enhance  each  other  that  it  seems  as  though  Nature  had 
worked  with  a  prophetic  eye  upon  the  artist,  and  the  artist  always  with  a  grateful  care  for  her. 

On  both  sides  of  the  wide  and  wooded  Moldau,  lies  this  ancient,  historic,  jiicturesque  town; 
just  where  the  stream  makes  a  right-angled  turn.  Snugly  nestled  in  this  elbow  lie  the  Alt  and 
Neu  Stadt,  once  wall-divided,  now  contiguous,  but  both  hoary  with  antiquity  and  memories  of 
the  past.  On  the  liigh  hill  of  the  Wissehrad  in  874  was  built  Prague's  first  Cliristian  church  —  the 
second  in  all  Bohemia. 

On  the  left  precipitous  bank  of  the  Moldau,  a  tangled  mass  of  fortifications,  palaces,  churches, 
with  the  effective,  but  unfinished,  mass  of  the  great  cathedral  towering  over  all,  stands  the  royal 
hurg.     From  this  point,  the  Hradschin,  the  crown  and  pinnacle  of  Prague,  the  view  is  magnificent. 

The  palace-dotted  hillside  is  in  the  foreground  ;  in  the  middle  distance  rises  the  city  proper ; 
towei-s,  spires,  domes  and  turrets  of  every  shape  and  size,  with  the  river  meandering  between ;  the 
wooded  hills  of  Bohemia,  sculptured  into  most  enchanting  outlines ;  form  a  soft,  harmonious  back- 
ground. 

The  city  itself  is  full  of  varied  architecture  ;  Romanesque  in  part,  Gothic  still  more  ;  incongru- 
ous, it  may  be,  from  a  severe  architectui-al  standpoint,  but  delightfully  Bohemian,  nevertheless  — 
a  Paradise  for  the  water-color  artist  and  a  veritable  " bonanza  "  for  the  young  woman  with  a 
sketch-book.  Color  runs  rampant  everywhere.  In  the  Thein-Kirche  curious  little  sidewise  spires 
sprout  out  of  the  two  main  spires,  which  are  balanced  in  a  delightfully  insecure  way  over  a  great 
arcaded  mass. 

In  this  wild  Bohemian  country  of  Ziska,  of  John  Huss,  of  Jerome  of  Prague,  where  Wallen- 
stein  fought  and  Frederick  the  Great  bombarded,  where  the  earliest  stronghold  of  Protestanism  is 
to-day  the  most  Catholic  of  Catholic  cities,  counting  only  three  thousand  Protestants  among  its 
two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  inhabitants,  every  step  is  interesting  historically  as  well  as  artisti- 
cally. 

But  the  tourist,  if  he  be  mortal,  is  forced  to  take  his  steps  by  proxy  in  a  cab,  for  Prague's  dis- 
tances, like  her  lions,  are  immense.  "With  a  good  Jehu,  the  Powder  Tower,  the  relic  of  the  Alt- 
stadt  wall ;  the  Rathhaus  with  its  curious  sixteenth  century  clock,  near  by  the  Grosser  Ring 
Square  where  the  great  religious  struggles  took  place  and  countless  heretics  were  burned  at  the 
stake  ;  the  Carlsbriicke,  named  after  Charles  the  Fourth  who  founded  the  famous  University  of 
Prague  in  the  fourteenth  century,  may  all  be  visited.  The  tower-capped  end  of  the  bridge  facing 
the  Altstadt  is  most  picturesque. 


166 


GREAT   CITIES   OF   THE   WORLD. 


From  this  bridge  the  Emperor  Wenzel  caused  the  father-confessor  of  his  wife,  St.  John 
Nepomuk,  the  great  saint  of  Bohemia,  to  be  cast  into  the  river  because  he  refused  to  betray  the 
secrets  of  the  confessional.  Many  days  and  nights  the  body  of  this  holy  man  floated  on  the  sur- 
face of  the  pitying  Moldau,  with  five  bright  stars,  as  token  of  his  innocence,  shining  above  it. 
To-day  he  is  sculptured,  carved,  painted  and  illuminated  in  every  corner  of  Prague. 

Another  pilgrimage  should  be  made  to  the  Cathedral  completed  by  Peter  Arler  or  Parler  in 
1385.  Its  splendid  tower,  five  hundred  and  twenty  feet  high,  was  reduced  by  fire  to  a  little  over 
three  hundred  feet.  "  It  is  not  a  church  of  any  ordinary  pattern,  but  a  great  octagon,  rather  more 
than  twenty-five  meters  in  diameter,  and  vaulted  in  a  clear  sweep,  and  in  the  most  beautiful  star- 
like design,  to  almost  exactly  the  same  height  above  the  floor." 


THE  GANGES,   AT  BENARES. 


BENARES. 


WHEN  Babylon,"  so  says  Mr.  Sherring,  "was  struggling  with  Nineveh  for  supremacy,  when 
Tyre  was  planting  her  colonies,  when  Athens  was  growing  in  strength,  befoie  Rome  had 
become  known,  or  Greece  liad  contended  with  Persia,  pr  Cyrus  had  added  luster  to  the 
Persian  monarchy,  or  Nebuchadnezzar  had  captured  Jerusalem,  Benares  had  already  risen  to  great- 
ness, if  not  to  glory."  One  of  the  most  ancient  of  the  great  cities  of  the  world,  Benares  is  to-day 
the  religious  center  of  the  Hindoo  religion  and  has  been  from  time  immemorial  a  "holy  city." 
Situated  on  a  broad  bend  of  the  Ganges  in  the  form  of  an  amphitheater,  and  extending  three 
miles  in  one  direction  and  one  in  another,  thickly  studded  with  domes  and  minarets,  the  bank  of 
the  river  lined  with  stone  embankments  and  highly  ornamented  landing  places,  with  shrines  and 
temples,  Benares  is  at  once  the  most  picturesque  and  interesting  city  of  India.  Besides  its  religious 
importance  it  is  a  wealthy  and  growing  trade  center,  and  the  residence  of  many  English  merchants, 
oflicials  and  missionaries. 


IN    THK   GAKUKNS   OK   LILLE. 


LILLE. 


THE  ancient  capital  of  Flanders,  once  known  as  the  historic  city  of  Lisle,  is  to-daj-  the  capital 
of  the  French  province  of  Nord.  It  is  the  chief  fortress  of  the  north  of  France,  is  ad- 
mirably situated  and  defended,  and  is  an  excellent  type  of  a  modern  fortified  city.  Lille' 
is  pre-eminently  a  manufacturing  and  commercial  town  :  its  principal  industry  is  flax-spinning, 
thirty-five  mills  with  one  hundred  and  ninety  thousand  spindles  giving  employment  to  four- 
teen thousand  persons.  Eighty  factories  manufacture  damasks,  tickings  and  the  usual  staples 
of  the  linen  trade,  and  there  are  dye-works,  bleacheries,  and  establishments  for  the  manufacture  of 
factory  engines  and  machinery.  The  broad  boulevards  and  handsome  squares  in  the  new  part  of 
the  city  contrast  pleasantly  with  the  dingy  and  somber  old  town.  The  new  streets  are  bordered  by 
substantial  brick  houses,  and  among  the  twenty  public  squares  the  Crrande  Plare  is  of  almost 
noble  extent.  Arches,  gJites,  bridges,  public  buildings,  churches,  schools,  hospitals,  museums  and 
private  lesidences  give  an  air  of  prosperity  and  architectural  beauty  to  this  old  Flemish  city. 
The  city  is  entered  by  seven  gates  and  still  retains  many  of  its  old  jticturesque  featui-es  and  ele- 
ments. It  is  fortified  at  its  northwestern  side,  possessing  a  strong  citadel  witli  l)airacks  and 
magazines.  The  town  hall,  public  library,  museum  and  picture  gallery  are  its  most  notable 
buildings. 

167 


IN    Til!-.    IIAUnoi:    riK   nOTTKUKAM. 


ROTTERDAM. 


IT  is  a  singular  thing,"  says  lla-  Italian  traveU'i-  De  Amicis.  ••  that  the  great  cities  of  Holland, 
although  Ijuilt  upon  a  shifting  soil  and  amid  difficulties  of  everj-  kind,  have  all  g)eat  regu- 
larity of  form.  Amsterdam  is  a  semicircle,  The  Hague  square,  Rotterdam  an  equilateral 
triangle.  The  base  of  the  triangle  is  an  immense  dyke,  which  defends  the  city  fiom  the  Meuse, 
and  is  called  the  Boompjes,  signifying  in  Dutch  small  trees,  from  a  row  of  elms,  now  very  tall, 
that  were  planted  when  it  was  first  constructed.  Another  great  dyke  foims  a  second  bulwark 
against  the  river,  which  divides  the  city  into  two  almost  equal  parts,  from  the  middle  of  the  left 
side  to  the  opposite  angle.  That  part  of  Hotterdam  which  is  comprised  between  the  two  dykes  is 
all  canals,  islands  and  bridges,  and  is  the  new  city :  that  which  extends  beyond  the  second  dyke 
is  the  old  city.  Two  great  canals  extend  along  the  other  two  sides  of  the  town  to  the  apex, 
where  they  meet  and  receive  the  watei"S  of  the  river  Rotte,  which  with  the  affix  of  Jam  or  dyke 
gives  its  name  to  the  city." 

Rotterdam  is,  commercially,  the  first  cit}'  in  Holland  after  Amsterdam.  Its  prosperity  dates 
from  the  j'ear  1830,  wheii,  upon  the  separation  of  Holland  and  Belgium,  Rotterdam  seemed  to 
secure  everything  that  was  lost  to  its  rival,  Antwerp.  To-day  the  city  is  growing  lapidly.  It  is 
the  leading  port  of  Holland.  It  does  full}^  two  thirds  of  the  export  trade  of  the  nation,  and  has 
neaih'  fift}-  per  cent,  of  the  vessels  and  tonnage  of  Holland.  Its  leading  industries  are  shii)- 
building,  sugar-refining,  and  the  production  of  lead,  iron  and  copper  wares,  white  lead,  varnishes, 
tobacco  and  cigai-s,  chocolate  and  confectionery.  It  has  some  notable  buildings  —  the  Boymans 
Museum,  the  town  house,  exchange,  court  house,  the  Delft  Gate,  seamen's  home,  hospital  and  thea- 
ters. Statues  of  Erasmus  the  scholar.  Van  Hogendorp  the  statesman  and  Tollens  the  poet,  adorn 
the  squares  and  market-place.     The  people  are  active,  ambitious  and  progressive. 

Rotterdam,  according  to  De  Amicis,  has  a  future  more  splendid  than  that  of  Amsterdam. 
She  does  not,  he  says,  possess  the  wealth  of  the  capital,  but  she  is  more  industrious  in  increasirfg 
what  she  has ;  she  dares,  risks,  undertakes,  like  a  young  and  adventurous  city.  At  Rotterdam,  he 
concludes,  "  fortunes  are  made  ;  at  Amsterdam  they  are  consolidated ;  at  The  Hague  they  are 
spent." 

168 


PICTURESQUE    HOLLAND. 


HAVANA. 


P' 


PICTURESQUE  as  seen  from 
the  sea,  tame  as  viewed 
from  its  low  background, 
the  city  of  San  Cristobal  de  la 
Havana,  the  capital  of  Cuba,  is 
situated  on  the  beautiful  Bay  of 
Havana,  one  of  the  finest  natural 
harbors  in  the  world,  land-locked, 
deep  and  free  from  rock  or  bar. 
This  harbor  is  capable  of  ac- 
commodating fully  a  thousand 
ships  of  the  largest  size,  and  deep 
enough  to  allow  them  to  anchor 
close  to  the  docks.  The  Morro 
and  Punta  castles,  the  citadel  and 
the  long  line  of  fortifications  that 
defend  the  entrance  to  the  city, 
give  the  town  ample  protec- 
tion from  the  sea,  while  on  the 
land  side  a  deep  fosse  separates 
the  fortifications  from  the  arse- 
nal and  the  suburbs  of  Salud  and 
Guadalupe,  in  which  fully  one 
half  of  the  inhabitants  of  the  city 
find  homes.  Most  of  its  houses 
are  of  solid  stone,  flat-roofed  and 
substantial.  It  has  many  impor- 
tant but  few  noteworthy  build- 
ings. Of  the  score  of  churches 
in  the  city  the  most  important 
is  the  cathedral  built  in  1724, 
and  noted  for  its  richly  frescoed 
walls,  its  variegated  marble  floor 
and  its  costly  altars.  Within  this  cathedral  for  many  years  was  the  tomb  of  Columbus.  Havana 
possesses  also  a  university,  a  theological  seminary,  a  military  school  and  a  school  of  art.  The 
Tacon Theater  accommodates  fully  three  thousand  people,  the  bull-ring  and  the  cock-pit  aie 
popular  amusements,  and  the  promenades,  drives  and  public  gardens  are  a  notable  feature  in 
Havana  life.  It  is  a  big,  busy,  noisy,  malodorous  and  not  always  healthy  town,  with  imperfect 
drainage  and  careless  sanitation.  Its  commerce  is  large,  and  is  chiefly  with  the  United  States, 
Great  Britain,  France  and  Germany.  Steamers  ply  constantly  between  Havana  and  New  York, 
New  Orleans,  Philadelphia  and  Baltimore,  while  the  city  is  connected  with  the  towns  in  the 
interior  of  the  island  by  railroads.  Havana's  staple  manufacturing  industry  —  that  of  tobacco  — 
gives  the  city  over  a  hundred  cigar  factories  of  the  highest  class,  and  its  exportation  of  sugar 
runs  into  hundreds  of  millions  of  pounds  yearly.  The  Royal  factory  of  La  Honradez  —  one  of 
the  sights  of  the  city  —  has  a  daily  product  of  over  two  and  a  half  million  cigarettes.  A  large 
export  trade  is  also  carried  on  in  sugar,  molasses,  bees-wax  and  honey.  Trade  is  lively,  taxes  aie 
high,  and  life  generally  is  on  a  correspondingly  fast  scale  — the  numerous  cafds,  restaurants,  clubs 
and  casinos  testifying  to  the  absence  of  a  real  home  or  domestic  life  among  Havana's  white  resi- 
dents. The  island  metropolis  is  the  chief  commercial  city  of  the  West  Indies,  a  pleasant  winter 
resort  for  visitors  from  the  colder  North,  and  always  interesting  and  picturesque  to  the  student  of 
man  and  his  manners. 

170 


IN   THK   CATHEDRAL. 


XEWAKK   FUOM    TlIK   PASSAIC. 


NEWARK. 


AS  New  York  City  marches  steadily  forward  to  Metropolitan  immensity,  so  do  its  sister  and 
suburban  cities  progress  proportionately  toward  bigness.     One  of  the  most  noticeable  of 
these  outlying  cities  of  the  American  Metropolis  is  Newark,  nine  miles  distant,  the  largest 
city  in  the  State  of  New  Jersey,  and  given  by  the  census  of  1890  a  population  of  one  hundred  and 
eighty-two  thousand  —  an  increase  of  over  one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  within  fifty  yeai-s,  and 
of  fully  fifty  thousand  since  the  last  census  of  1880. 

Newark  is  pleasantly  and  favorably  situated  in  an  ele\ated  plain  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Passaic  River,  four  miles  from  Newark  Bay.  It  is  regularly  laid  out,  with  broad  and  beautiful 
streets,  many  of  them  elm-shaded  and  lined  with  handsome  buildings  and  private  residences. 
Broad  and  Market  Streets  are  the  principal  business  thoroughfares  —  the  one  cutting  the  h^rt  of 
the  city  north  and  south,  the  other  east  and  west.  Among  the  city's  most  important  and  imposing 
buildings  are  the  Court  House,  the  City  Hall,  the  Custom  House  and  Post-office  and  numerous 
beautiful  churches.  Among  its  business  edifices  one  —  that  of  a  successful  Life  Insurance  Com- 
pany —  is  said  to  be  the  finest  business  building  in  the  State. 

The  railway  facilities  of  Newark  are  abundant,  four  great  trunk  lines  making  it  an  important 
station,  but  alike  the  situation  and  inclination  of  the  town  have  given  it  an  especial  prominence  as 
a  manufacturing  center.  Even  in  1870  it  was  known  as  the  '*  Birmingham  of  America,"  and 
in  twenty  years  the  growth  of  its  industries  has  been  proportionate  to  that  of  its  population. 
Jewelry,  carriages,  paper,  leather  and  beer  are  its  chief  manufactures,  but  pressing  these  closely 
are  many  other  interests  —  celluloid  goods,  hat-making,  boots  and  shoes,  harness,  trunk  and 
saddlery-making :  tools,  tobacco,  chemicals,  clothing,  machinery,  iron  and  steel-manufacturing  with 
sewing-machines,  cotton,  woollen  and  silk-thread  factories  swell  the  list  of  Newark's  industries. 

"  Newark's  growth,"  says  a  recent  observer  of  the  city's  progress,  "  has  been  of  the  solid  and 
realistic  variety  :  there  has  been  nothing  of  the  artificial  about  it.  What  she  has,  she  has  fairly 
won  and  is  clearly  entitled  to.'' 

171 


MONTREAL. 


o= 


^NE  thousand  miles 
from  the  ocean, 
the  gateway  to 
a  great  chain  of  river, 
lake  and  canal  naviga- 
tion, crowning  a  series 
of  terraces  and  over- 
looked 1)}'  the  great  pile 
of  trap-rock  known  as 
Mount  Royal,  the  larg- 
est city  of  the  Dominion 
of  Canada,  Montreal,  has 
stood  for  three  centuries 
and  a  half,  steadily  grow- 
ing, a  power  in  coloniza- 
tion, in  politics,  in  trade 
and  in  manufactures  in 
the  history  of  the  sturdy 
northern  neighbor  of  the 
United  States. 

The  modern  city  of 
Montreal  occupies  an 
area  of  nearly  eight 
square  miles.  Its  piin- 
cipal  streets  run  parallel 
with  the  St.  Lawience. 
Its  ])ublic  buildings  and 
many  of  its  private  resi- 
dences are  built  of  the 
gray  limestone  quarried 
from  the  Iio3-al  Mount- 
ain on  its  noithern  side. 
In  the  river  below,  the  great  Victoria  Bridge,  a  triumph  of  modern  engineering,  spans  the  space 
between  Nun's  and  St.  Helen's  Islands.  It  is  a  tubular  iron  bridge,  measures  nearly  nine  thousand, 
two  hundred  feet  in  length,  and  is  supported  on  twenty-four  piers  of  solid  masonry  so  constructed 
as  to  successfully  resist  the  rapid  current  of  the  river  and  the  enormous  pressure  of  the  ice  in 
spring-time. 

Above  the  mass  of  Montreal's  crowding  houses  rise  the  towere,  spires  and  domes  of  its 
churches  and  public  buildings.  Montreal  is  a  city  of  churches.  The  Metropolitan  Cathedral  of 
St.  Peter  reproduces  on  a  reduced  scale  the  leading  characteristics  of  St.  Peter's  at  Rome,  and 
forms  a  striking  feature  in  any  general  view  of  the  city.  The  Parish  Church  of  Notre  Dame 
accommodates  ten  thousand  worshipers.  The  new  city  hall,  a  superb  structure,  the  court  house 
near  by,  Bonsecours  Market  in  St.  Paul  Street,  McGill  College  and  its  buildings  in  Sherbrookc 
Street,  the  Hotel  Dieu,  and  the  Gre}'  Nun's  Hosjiitals,  are  among  the  principal  buildings  of  the 
city,  which  is  also  adorned  with  numerous  statues  and  monuments. 

A  city  of  ice  and  snow  for  a  good  portion  of  the  year,  its  cold  caniiot  chill  its  advancing  pi'os- 
perity.  The  commercial  houses  and  the  substantial  harbor  of  Montreal  testify  to  its  wealth,  its 
strength  and  its  solidity,  while  such  pleasure  grounds  as  the  lofty  park  on  the  summit  of  Mount 
Royal  are  proof  at  once  of  the  picturesque  situation  and  the  general  prosperity  of  this  leading 
city  in  the  great  Dominion. 

172 


IN   THK   ST.    LAWKENCK    UAlUi>&. 


JIIK    IlfU.SON    lilVKli    AT    .IKKSKY'    CITY. 


JERSEY  CITY. 


TO  be  a  "railroad  town"  is  to  be  eminently  prosaic.  From  all  snob  points  tbe  tourist  in 
searcb  of  the  picturesque  incontinently  flees,  knowing  it  only  as  a  good  place  to  get  away 
from.  As  such  a  place  does  the  unthinking  tourist  regard  Jersey  City,  New  York  City's 
depot,  entrepot  and  overflow  on  the  further  side  of  the  ])road  and  busy  Hudson  River.  But  all 
such  hasty  conclusions  are  often  apt  to  be  both  rash  and  wrong,  and  he  wlio  only  knows  Jei'sey 
City  as  a  railway  center,  unattractive  because  simply  a  place  for  departure  or  arrival,  knows  but 
little  of  the  real  life  of  this  busy,  bustling,  ever-growing  town.  Incorporated  in  IS'IO  as  the  City 
of  Jersey  and  re-incorporated  in  1838  under  its  present  name,  it  is  eligibly  placed  alike  for  traffic 
and  sitely  location  on  the  mile-wide  Hudson  just  where  it  entei-s  the  beautiful  Bay  of  New  York. 
Jei'sey  City  is  now  an  aggregation  of  three  distinct  municipalities.  It  has  l)een  well  laid  out  with 
wide  and  regular  streets,  four  public  squares,  substantial  business  structures  and  public  buildings 
and  many  handsome  private  residences.  Its  chief  importance  is,  necessarily,  its  relation  to  New 
York  City  as  a  terminus  for  travel.  At  least  three  lines  of  ocean  steamera,  five  trunk  lines  of 
railways,  seven  lesser  railways  Jind  the  Morris  and  Essex  Canal  center  upon  its  river  frontage  and 
foster  its  industries.  Of  these  latter  the  name  is  legion.  Watch-making,  glass-works,  zinc,  boiler, 
machine  and  locomotive  works  ;  foundries,  raili'oad  repair  and  sujjply  shops,  sugar  refineries, 
breweries,  jjlaning  mills  and  the  thousand  and  one  kindred  or  companion  industries  find  a  home 
in  this  busy  city,  and  give  daily  occupation  to  the  thousands  of  toilere  who  are  daily  increasing  its 
usefulness  and  importance,  and  making  it,  if  not  the  most  picturesque,  certainly  one  of  the  most 
practical  and  productive  of  all  the  great  and  growing  cities  of  the  American  Union. 

173 


VENICE. 


P'LOAT  on  a  placid  sea  a  league  away,  \a,y  a  great 
city,  with  its  towers  and  domes  and  steeples 
drowsing  in  a  golden  mist  of  sunset."  Thus  to 
Mark  Twain,  as  to  man}'  another  visitor  to  the  beautiful 
city  of  the  sea,  came  the  first  view  of  Venice.  It  is  the 
placid  sea  that  has  made  Venice,  that  has  given  it  the 
halo  of  romance,  art  and  song,  and  that  for  fully  five 
hundred  years  kept  it  so  potent  a  power  in  the  history  of 
the  world. 

To-day  Venice  is  but  a  remnant  of  her  ancient  glory. 
Her  piei"s  are  deserted,  her  warehouses  are  empty,  her 
merchant  fleets  are  vanished,  her  armies  and  her  naNdes 
are  but  memories.  Her  glory  is  departed,  and  with  her 
crumbling  grandeur  of  wharves  and  palaces  about  her  she 
sits  among  her  stagnant  lagoons,  forlorn 
and  beggared,  forgotten  of  the  world. 

Laid    in    a    shallow    portion    of   the 
Adriatic    the    modern    Venice    stands   oil 
one  hundred  and  seventeen  islands,  sepa- 
rated   by    one    hundred   and    fifty   canals 
and  united  by  three  hundred  and   eighty 
bridges.       Instead    of    streets     its    traffic 
passes  along  these   ca- 
nals.    "  There  is,"  says 
Mr.  Stockton,    "not   a 
horse,   a   cab  or  a  car- 
riage   of   any  kind,   in 
all  the  city.     The  peo- 
l)le    go    about   in    gon- 
dolas   or   other    kinds 
of    boats,    or    walk    in 
the  alleys,  streets   and 
squares  which  are  found 
all  over  the  city."   Since 
1880  "  omnibus  "  steam- 
ere    have    been    intro- 
duced on  the  Grand  Canal,  over  which  have  also  been  thrown  two  nineteenth-century  iron  bridges 
—  useful,  but  by  no  means  jjicturesque. 

The  Grand  Canal  winds  its  serpentine  length  of  two  miles  through  the  city,  with  a  railway 
station  at  one  end  and  a  hotel  at  the  other.  It  is  lined  with  buildings  and  palaces,  some  moldy 
and  some  magnificent,  and  almost  midway  in  its  coui-se  it  is  crossed  by  the  famous  Rialto  —  a 
queer  but  historic  bridge,  higli  in  the  middle  and  with  a  good  many  steps  at  either  end.  The 
Rialto  is  in  the  busiest  portion  of  the  city,  for  Venice  in  spite  of  its  ancient  flavor  and  its  moldy 
life,  is  growing  in  industry  and  prosperity.  Gold  and  silver  work,  velvet,  silk  and  glass  are  its 
leading  manufactures,  while  an  extensive  traffic  is  carried  on  in  cotton,  grain,  oils,  wine,  fruits, 
drugs,  fish,  hides  and  leather. 

But  the  effect  of  the  old  Venice  is  more  lasting  than  that  of  the  new.  "  What  a  funny  old 
city  this  Queen  of  the  Adriatic  is!"  exclaimed  Mark  Twain.  "Narrow  streets,  vast,  gloomy  marble 
palaces,  black  with  the  corroding  damps  of  centuries,  and  all  partly  submerged :  no  dry  land  visible 
anywhere,  and  no  sidewalks  worth  mentioning.     In   the  glare  of  the  day  tliere  is  little   poetry 

174 


A    WATEK-VENDKU    ON    TUK    HIVA. 


ON   THE   GRAND   CANAL. 


176 


GREAT  CITIES   OF  THE   WOKLD. 


riiK  (A nii'DKAi,  oi-   SI.  mai;k. 


about  Venice,  but  under  the  charitable  moon  her  stained  palaces  are  white  again,  their  battered 
sculptures  are  hidden  in  shadows  and  the  old  city  seems  crowded  once  more  with  the  grandeur 
that  was  hers  five  hundred  yeai-s  ago." 

The  central  and  objective  point  of  Venice  is,  of  course,  the  square  of  St.  Mark,  at  the  mouth 
of  the  Grand  Canal.  Here  is  the  pink  and  yellow  palace  of  the  Doges,  a  building  that  fills  a  large 
share  of  Venetian  story ;  here  the  historic  Bridge  of  Siglis  that  links  a  palace  to  a  prison  and  has 
seen  so  much  of  tragedy  and  tyranny ;  here,  too,  are  the  Cathedral  of  St.  Mark  —  the  venerable 
relic  of  the  ancient  glory  of  Venice  —  and  its  beautiful  tower  or  Campanile,  rising  high  over  every 
thing  in  this  picturesque  city  of  the  sea. 

The  visitor  in  this  moldering  but  quaint  old  sea-town  need  never  tire  for  sights  and  expedi- 
tions. "Ever  so  much  more,"  says  Mr.  Stockton,  "shall  we  do  in  Venice.  We  shall  go  in 
gondolas  and  see  the  old  dock  yards  whei'e  the  ships  of  the  Crusaders  were  fitted  out ;  we  shall 
visit  the  Academy  of  Fine  Arts,  where  we  may  study  some  of  the  finest  works  of  tliat  most 
celebrated  of  all  Venetians,  the  painter  Titian ;  we  shall  take  a  steamboat  to  the  Lido,  an  island 
out  at  sea  where  the  citizens  go  to  bathe  and  to  breathe  the  sea  air ;  we  shall  go  out  upon  the 
broad  Giudecca,  a  wide  channel  between  Venice  and  one  of  its  suburbs ;  we  shall  explore  churches 
and  palaces ;  and,  above  all,  we  shall  float  by  daylight  and  by  moonlight,  if  there  happens  to  be  a 
moon,  over  the  canals,  under  the  bridges  and  between  the  tall  and  picturesque  walls  and  palaces, 
which  make  Venice  the  strange  and  delightful  city  she  is." 


